i notice it smokes alot right when i start it up and rev the engine once th truck warms up it doesnt smoke as much....after its warmed up it will only smoke when i rev it( then it is excessive white smoke ) i am a dummy when it gets ti mechanics
have you had this truck checked out on a genuin ford scanner sometimes the others wont show some of the problems? i think the ipr cost around 500 at the parts store and 800 at ford so you better know that thats what is wrong. can you get it to shut down when your in the driveway at home?and how long do you have to wait befor it will start again
i was going to but the dealer ship was so far behind...i would have had to wait a while.... it varies sometimes after it cools down it will fire right back up, the last couple times i got it to start it will idle fine wont smoke much but as soon as i go to drive it will die after i get moving....but i can rev it while its park and it wont die.... im dropping the fuel tank tonight and checking my lift pump..... the ICP was part of my problem but when i ran it out of fuel the one day i do believe it caused some other issues( the guage said i still had a 1/4 Of a tank, i never let the fuel go much under a 1/4 ). that day the tank was bone dry... im checking the lift pump in the fuel tank.... a ford mechanic told me there is a screen or filter like thing that was bad to get stopped up ?
finally got my truck fixed........high pressure oil pump , lift pump , the switch thing on the rail , IPR ,ICP , and i think the third sensor was the cam shaft postion sensor....also have 3 injectors going out (explains the miss between 2 and 2500 rpm.........inspite all the * the truck did great till a couple hours ago the clutch went out
I just bought this truck to haul a 28 foot camper. I was hauling it with a Dodge Durango 5.7L but just barely. From my perspective, this truck sounds and drives like nothing I have had before...its pretty macho, but I think it will do the job. My friends are way impressed! Does anyone know what the tow capacity is on the 2005 F250 SuperDuty Crew Cab. It has a 5th wheel hook up in the backend but I am going to be pulling the trailer with a hitch mount. Camai
Hello I have a 2000 f350 7.3 and I have problems.It starts and runing for 5 minutes and stops and I can't start it up again only if it stays for two hours when it stops the check engine light is off .I changed the CPS but nothing .the pump is working but is not getting signal to start when I turn the ignition on the wait to star is not on or sometime it turns on but the cuise light is on to Anybody have the same thing
My church is looking to purchase a 2005 Krystal Koach mini-bus with this engine and I have heard nothing but bad things about it. The engine had the short block and injector pump replaced at 30,000 miles and now has 52,000 total miles on it. What, if any, improvements or fixes to the factory problems have been made by Ford on replacements and did this fix it?
I am thinking about buying a ford diesel truck but not to smart on the power stroke what is the best motor to get i was told a 7.3 not a 6.0 does it matter and a used truck with a lot of miles is that a huge deal anything you have to offer will be very useful
I have a 96 Superduty with a powerstroke. Has no power when cold, wont go over 2500 RPM when cold. Has a rough idle even when warm. It does have a fuel drip comming from the high pressure oil pump area (engine valley, runnung down the back of the block). It also blows blue/white smoke when cold. Would anyone have any ideas on this?
I hope you have deep pockets if you buy a 6.0. Ford has built in tons of problems from exploding turbos to lots of electrical troubles. Bad plastic parts for high pressure oil pressure starting. Ford won't stand behind them. Oh forgot about my trans frying too. All with 41,000 miles. Ford said I was 1 month out of warranty and I didnt buy new NOT their problem. Love my new GMC though.
my 96 powerstroke will not start. I have not had any problems, went out to start and it acts like it is out of gas but is not. I ran the batteries down trying to start it so I replaced the batteries that would not take a charge. I have also noticed that my 'wait to start' light is out.
Try checking the BCM fuse for a bad connection if good try the starter relay I have a 2000 f250 with the 7.3L had something like that to for me it was the BCM fuse the fuse box is under the kick panel driver side
New superduty shut off while driving, it would restart but would not stay running more than a few seconds. Ford found bad throttle actuator. Ran it 300 more miles then shut off again, similar to last time except engine light stayed on. Ford stumped now. Fuel pressure goes low. Replaced filters, no effect, old filter looks clean. Harnesses beep out ok. Replacing fuel system controller tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Anybody else have this problem with the 6.7L? They had to resdesign some fuel controls for this size, so could be system problem.
I was driving down the road and my truck stopped like it ran out of fuel. I can not get it to start back up. There is plenty of fuel in the truck. I even replaced the fuel filter but it still will not start. Any suggestions???? Please help!
Wish I could help but am in the same boat. Does your wait to start light come on? If it does then listen for your fuel pump, No sound no pump. CPS is a common cause, 26.00 at your local IH dealer P/N 1876735C91.
Truck will idle fine ,when drivin a half mile will jug and only idle...thats with the map senor unpluged,with the map sensor pluged and drivin it will quit running and take awhile to start again and run fine after a few mins..Changed fuel pump no help...????new fuel filter....newer injecter driver ??
Mine did the same thing. I replaced the fuel filter...no help. checked all the fuses....good. Found another fuse box under the hood. Bad fuse! 30 amp...replaced it for 3.49. Life is good again
Mine is doing the same thing, changed fuel filter, new batteries, taking to the shop on Monday. We had the same truck years ago with the same sensors going out, cam sensor #1 problem in powerstrokes, hope they fix it the first time, last truck cost over 4 grand to finally get it right.
Did you figure out what the problem was? I just had the same thing happen to me last night on my way home from work.....I have no idea where to start!!!!!
Nope... the light went off at 11 pm and when I woke up to check it at 0300 it is back on. Am wondering if one of the door sensors is malfunctioning or frozen or something. The only other time it has done it was at -25*F. Its about -10*F tonight. Interesting.
Am thinking that as the fuel warmer kicks on, that it is wired to those interior lights. It didn't kill the batteries and even at -10 , it started right up this morning.
My truck has 320,000 miles starting acting up , no power in morning, lack of power pulling a hill towing a load, shutting off durning idle, loopy idle and intermitting miss. Changed my high pressure oil pump and it solved my problems, pump cost about $400.00.
I have 2001 7.3 that will not start when it gets to 30 degrees. Plug it in and it will start. When it does start it sounds like it runs on 4 cyl. One bank mat not work at this point. ANY IDEAS..
HAD IT AT DEALERSHIP, TESTED PRESSURE AND SAY IT IS GOOD. THEY WANT TO DO INJECTOR AT A TIME TO COST A SHITLOAD OF MY POCKET. THERE MUST BE SOMETHING SIMPLE. THANK YOU
I have a 97 7.3. It has almost 289,000 miles on it. For the most part it works fine but when it is cold, 30 or below, it will surge up and down about a mile or two per hour until the engine heats up. It runs normal for about three seconds then slows down like the turbo is off for two seconds. It will repeat this until the engine gets hot which some days does not happen. That is the second thing. How warm should it run? I changed thermostats some time back and it would run mid range on the gauge. This lasted for about a year then it started only going to the n on the gauge sometimes, mostly lower. I put a new thermostat in and it did exactly the same as the old one. The surging does not happen when it is plugged in. Also when I first got it, had about 135,000 on it, I could start it in the cold and run it without the surging happening. This started about 220,000 miles or so. When I first got it the turbo seemed to kick in almost right away and now it takes about four minutes even in warm weather at a idle for it to engage. Is this normal?
mine did the same thing.... there is a valve in the exhaust that opens and closes to maintain heat in engine i ended up just unpluging it my problem started when i put in oversize exhaust and better flow air filter probably made sensor not read properly.
My 2001 f 250 7.3 liter diesel engine started smoking badly and making lots of noise I pulled overand kill the engine and let it sit for a few minutes. I try to start in again it bellowed out a lot of white smoke. It took off at a high rpm I'd turn the key off it bid not die right awoay I have not tried restarting again. Does anyone know what is wrong with it or how much it might cost to have it repaired
I have a'96 7.3. Recently when I start it and put it in gear, the engine pulls down and acts like it is in drive and reverse at the same time. If I don't do anything the engine dies. If I get on it pretty hard it will take off and drive ok until I stop, at which point the engine wants to die. Don't know if it is related as I had a bad connector on one of my batteries, but I can't keep the batteries charged now. Put the charger on for several hours, disconnect, crank engine no problem. Next day, batteries dead. Thanks for any suggestions. :confuse:
Off the top of my head I would say that the Fuel injection regulator is not functioning,/ stuck closed. It is located in the center valley of the engine. To Test You need to borrow or buy a "Diesel Mechanical" fuel pressure pressure gauge set, or sometimes have them at Harbor freight that can handle minimum 5K. to test for excess pressure. BE VERY CAREFUL!!!!!
I replaced my engine in my 1999 with a 2000 engine and it would stall out then start up when it rained and snowed. I put electric greese on the camshaft plug and the problems went away. Moisture is getting into the electrical conection shorting out the relay.
I had the same problem with mine. I replaced the water seperator valve then the leak stoped. the leaking fuel runs across the top of the engine then drains out the back running down between the engine and bell housing making it look as if the transmision is leaking.
Hi sounds to me like it could be turbo bearings worn for the following reasons. 1 engine noise and smoke,lack of oil because it's going into the engine via the turbo. 2 white smoke could be engine oil burning 3 took of at high rpm,engine is running on hot engine oil which will burn like diesel and will normally keep going until it use's all your engine oil (if the engine does not explode before that) 4engine does not stop right away, this is because it is burning your engine oil not the diesel which you stop when you turn of your key.
Please check your engine oil level and then your turbo for wear
Comments
Does anyone know what the tow capacity is on the 2005 F250 SuperDuty Crew Cab. It has a 5th wheel hook up in the backend but I am going to be pulling the trailer with a hitch mount.
Camai
I have a 2000 f350 7.3 and I have problems.It starts and runing for 5 minutes and stops and I can't start it up again only if it stays for two hours when it stops the check engine light is off .I changed the CPS but nothing .the pump is working but is not getting signal to start when I turn the ignition on the wait to star is not on or sometime it turns on but the cuise light is on to
Anybody have the same thing
Any help offered will be appreciated.
Ran it 300 more miles then shut off again, similar to last time except engine light stayed on.
Ford stumped now. Fuel pressure goes low. Replaced filters, no effect, old filter looks clean.
Harnesses beep out ok. Replacing fuel system controller tomorrow. Fingers crossed.
Anybody else have this problem with the 6.7L? They had to resdesign some fuel controls for this size, so could be system problem.
You can email me at hdpilotnc@yahoo.com
David
Let me know if you got your going
2 VALVE COVER GASKETS AND INTERNAL WIRING HARNESSES
8 GLOW PLUGS
8 INJECTORS
8 SET OF RINGS TO INSTALL INJECTORS
FOR $1080.00
That is the second thing. How warm should it run? I changed thermostats some time back and it would run mid range on the gauge. This lasted for about a year then it started only going to the n on the gauge sometimes, mostly lower. I put a new thermostat in and it did exactly the same as the old one.
The surging does not happen when it is plugged in.
Also when I first got it, had about 135,000 on it, I could start it in the cold and run it without the surging happening. This started about 220,000 miles or so.
When I first got it the turbo seemed to kick in almost right away and now it takes about four minutes even in warm weather at a idle for it to engage. Is this normal?
1 engine noise and smoke,lack of oil because it's going into the engine via the turbo.
2 white smoke could be engine oil burning
3 took of at high rpm,engine is running on hot engine oil which will burn like diesel and will normally keep going until it use's all your engine oil (if the engine does not explode before that)
4engine does not stop right away, this is because it is burning your engine oil not the diesel which you stop when you turn of your key.
Please check your engine oil level and then your turbo for wear