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possible problem #1 refill with cooling fluid, fill first from the top tube over the thermostat (the one with the Allen wrench on the cap), fill the fluid reservoir let it run fr five minutes refill both again if needed.
Problem#2 Bad Hydraulic fan:
remove fan from car, replace with a high speed fan, I used a 1991 ford topaz electric fan with an ice cube 40 amp relay connected to an ignition fuse(eat dirt Lincoln engineering) install a connecting tube between the two hydraulic fan pump lines
Problem #3 Bad Hydraulic fan pump:
same steps as problem #2 but remove hydraulic pump and replace lower pulley with an alternator pulley, replace serpentine belt with a 114 inch belt (smaller than stock)
it works for me and best of all runs a few degrees cooler than stock
(2000 lincoln LS) Can anyone tell me how to replace my hydraulic fan with an electric. cornelius.marshall2@soc.mil
wallyrs12@yahoo.com
The check engine light is on.
the air bag light lights up flashes a couple of times and then stays on.
Then the oil light comes up when the car is on the regular temperature, whenever im slowing down the oil light comes up, then when i accelerate it goes away.
Then it has been overheating sometimes. last sunday overheated, week before that too, then today tuesday did it again. On sunday i left it cooling for a couple of hours then it was normal, the fans work but when it overheates the fans arent working.
Could this all be because of the oil pressure that is too low
' if so how can i fix it? any tips on this would be appreciate it
Thanks
The air bag light is likely a bad clock spring (behind the steering wheel). When you unplug a component of the air bag system, it trips the light to tell you to recalibrate it, which is a simple process done with a computer at the dealer (about $90). But if you haven't unplugged any component, it is likely a worn connection in the clock spring. The clock spring powers up everything in your steering wheel, including your air bag, while still enabling you to turn the wheel round and round (if they just rans wires, the wires would twist and break). If there is a bad connection, its the equivalent of unplugging the steering wheel air bag every time you turn the vehicle. So if you just get the system recalibrated, it'll trip the light again leaving the dealer's lot. There is no code to identify this problem. Anything else not working on your steering wheel (cruise control? radio control? horn?)? If so, it's defintiely the clock spring. They're about $80 and you need a wheel puller, but it's a simple job. Ford/Lincoln/Mercuries are famous for weak clock springs.
See my prior post regarding my experience with the overheating. The degas bottle (overflow tank) has a design flaw that cause a crack along a seam, which lets air into the system and causes antifreeze to leak out at higher RPMS (when you're on the highway and won't notice). Air acts as a blockage and causes overheating. Others have cursed the hydraulic fans as constantly failing/inconsistent, and replaced them with electric ones. I haven't had that issue. A new degas bottle and a system fill/air purge and I've been fine for another 20k so far. The degas bottle is pulled through the driver's side wheel well (remove the wheel and wheelwell cover). Check it for visible signs of cracking. If not, you've likely got the fan problem.
The oil issue-potentially very serious. Assuming you're sure your oil is full, the correct viscosity and fresh, I'd replace the oil pressure switch (likely near the oil filter housing) first. It's relatively cheap and always a good one to keep fresh. If the problem recurs, your oil pump could be failing. That could increase friction and contribute to an overheating problem, but with a failing oil pump, overheating would be the least of your worries.
The problem i have with the fan is that it stops working all of the sudden, and i cant get it to start, even with the a/c on, but then how come sometimes i turn on my car and the stupid fan is working right? Everytime the car randomly decides to overheat i check the fan and the fan has stopped.
Well i took it to a mechanic and he had told me that the oil presure was low, but he didnt do any computer test or anything, and the guy before that one told me a need the whole cooling system new ( which he was wrong since my cooling system works but something is messing with the reaction of it)
for the oil, i used a bottle of Lucas today which helps with the lubrication of the oil and see if it goes away. I will be getting it check by another person see what they say.
So, when I took my vehicle to Pep Boys for brake service today, I told them I also wanted the sensors replaced, if they had them in stock. They ran the diagnostic and now the guy is telling me that CO2 was detected in the cooling system and I need to have my head gaskets replaced. He then said it would be upwards of $2500 to fix and referred me to the Lincoln dealer. Is this accurate?
I'll tell you what I tell everyone-remove the inner (driver's) fenderwall and remove the degas bottle. Check the seams for signs of cracking. If it's cracked, replace it and that will likely solve all of your problems. When I say that air gets into the system when the degas bottle is cracked, its the air that's under your hood, which contains CO2.
And it's also possible that Pep Boys is lying to you. Find a mechanic you know and trust. That's how I got my Lincoln-a friend owned it and brought it to a stranger's shop for an overheating issue. The mechanic said the the heads were blown and offered him $500 for the car, which was MINT otherwise and fully loaded. I had expressed interest in the car so he offered it to me for $500. Then I drained the oil (clean), read the blogs and found the degas bottle was cracked. I replaced it and its been running like a top for 20k now. The mechanic was trying to screw my buddy. And yes, I made it up to him...
thank you, Rufus Henry
You seem knowledgeable. I have an overheating problem maybe you can help with. It overheats suddenly when the car has been sitting and I turn it on. It goes to the top of the thermostat guage and the thermo light comes on. I then shut her down and she stays just at the halfway mark on the thermo guage.
When I looked at the car it seems as if antifreeze dripped or exploded from the t-joint on the upper radiator hose assembly on to the heater valve. It is coming from the small hose at the bottom of the t-joint. I pulled all the hoses and they are fine with no cracks I also checked the t-joint on the upper radiator hoses to see if it was clogged or cracked and it is not. The antifreeze leak seems to be localized to that one hose. Something is cause the antifreeze to spew out of the hose and the car to over heat.
Any help?
Any advice.
Still gone?
I am having the occasional overheating problem and trying to figure it out.
Thanks
Doesn't look like jaime007 ever replied. Did you resolve the overheating on your Lincoln LS?
Thanks again for having this Forum. You saved me a pricy dealer visit and many headaches.
I'm also experiencing a problem now with the A/C compressor clutch. After about 10 minutes of normal operation, the clutch will cycle, but not fully engage, all the while making a squealing noise.
Can the clutch be replaced without taking the compressor out?
I put a little 12" pusher with 880 cfm on the condeser and it keeps the temp in the middle but if in traffic long and its hot temp starts to climb and i notice the coolant backing up out of the bottle ,,, SOMEONE please help!!!!
Does anyone know what it might be I need to get this fixed before my son starts school please help.
Thanks Christina
My problem is the LS V8 I have is overheating all the time. Although the engine is getting hot, the hoses are not getting hot. This makes me believe its either the thermostat or water pump. The fan seems to be working really fast with lots of airflow, but the engine is still overheating
It was fine untill yesterday afternoon, and now it overheats whenever I start it.
Any suggestions gladly accepted