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ANY IDEAS OR SUGGESTIONS !!!!
THANKS
Seems like you have a fuel gauge sender problem. You can either replace the sender, which means dropping the tank to access it, or you can track your fuel level by mileage using the odometer or trip meter.
My '99 with a 19 gallon tank will shut off the fuel pump nozzle with three gallons to go. It then takes me an extra three or four minutes of careful squeezing to get those last three gallons in (although it does seem like ten minutes ).
-Paul
Symptoms: My 2000 Wrangler (4.0L) drives and sounds fine. When it gets up to full temp, the oil pressure drops to 0 only when I'm idle at a stop light. Then after a few more minutes of driving, it overheats. Turning the heater on brings the temp right back down. I'm not hearing, feeling, or smelling anything unusual.
The mechanic says: cam bearing going bad...need a new engine. This is based on running the Jeep for and hour (how does a bad engine run for an hour?) and confirming what I just told you. Then they did some research online. That's all.
My faithful mechanic says over the phone: start by changing the sending unit and put 5quarts of 20/50 in it since I just moved from the mild East coast to the mid west where its 100 degrees. He says start there and see what happens first. He also advises that the inline 6 engine in my Jeep is pretty solid and there's other things that could be causing it.
Any other suggestions? I'm trying this out for the first time to see if it helps.
Different oil may help. The sending unit may be part of the problem.
As far as overheating, are you seeing any coolant leaks? Doing a coolant flush and swapping a new thermostat ($10.00 at Autozone) wouldn't be bad to do ANYWAY and would help rule that part out. Other possible issue on the overheating is the water pump ($32.00 at AutoZone).
A Haynes manual will walk you through all these basics and most you would need is some basic tools and time.
I would HIGHLY recommend looking in your area for a 4x4 club site. Get on there and ask around. Being a Jeep Girl, you'll likely have LOTS of helpful guys just waiting to help that will be local to you.
BTW, your best assessment is likely about the mechanic. Find another. Ask friends, coworkers, etc about people they use. But you will find that the TJ's are pretty easy to work on with the right information handy. I do 99% of my own work on mine and I didn't really know much about vehicles prior to that.
-Paul
Sounds like your phone guy has a better handle on it than the local dummy.
If you're not losing coolant and the Jeep seems to be running fine then you can relax a little.
Replace the oil pressure sender and the coolant temp sender, change the oil and filter and see where you're at.
What does the manual say?
-Paul
It's like it's icing up or something in there? Anyone else have this? the freon recharge seems to have stuck so far, but this problem predates that.
If this has been happening for a long time it may never have been fitted; it's part # 56000724AB.
Even with the elbow fitted, air pressure keeps a certain amount of condensate backed up in the HVAC housing and when you park and it all drains out it looks like a major coolant leak!
It's especially noticeable with the humidity here in FL.
The reduction in airflow sounds like the diverter doors inside the HVAC unit aren't being properly positioned.
They're operated by vacuum actuators so you most likely have a low system vacuum probably caused by a leak, although it could also be a bad actuator or control switch.
Thanks.
I bought it with the lifetime warranty, and it cracked after five years on the welds down low. They gave me the replacement for free, though I spent $279 having it put in yesterday. New free header of questionable quality won out over the pricey alternative, but if you are thinking of one of these do consider it,
However, unless all the mounting bolts were broken, it's less than an hour's work to replace the exhaust manifold so that labor charge seems to be extraordinarily high.
If it is icing up, which is possible, then unfortunately that's usually the sign of a failing compressor, although it could just be a low charge.
The only real way to tell is to get some gauges on it and check it out.
$100 for a exhaust manifold replacement? I never got quoted less than $400 in labor in NC last time. I thought under $300 was a gift.
I have never come across a Wrangler head that needed the exhaust and inlet ports machined for warping. I've only ever seen it a couple of times on the main compression area.
However, nothing is impossible, so in that case the cost was more reasonable considering the extra labor for removing and refitting the head, machining charge, new head gasket set, etc., etc.
$100 for a exhaust manifold replacement? I never got quoted less than $400 in labor in NC last time. I thought under $300 was a gift.
Dealerships around here (FL) charge around $100 an hour, independents around $45-$65, so I would have thought $100 max as it's barely an hour's work; unless of course the head had to be removed as yours did, but that's a very unusual circumstance.
I've NEVER heard of that...
Mine: 1995 318ti Club Sport; 2020 C43; 2021 Sahara 4xe 1996 Speed Triple Challenge Cup Replica Wife's: 2015 X1 xDrive28i Son's: 2009 328i; 2018 330i xDrive
Moving stuff out of the way to get at the header and putting it back later, the grunt work involved...I still don't see this as an hour job. I recall people here quoting high three figures for replacements that include the header.
Sorry, I misunderstood. However I have to say I've never heard of that being necessary on a Wrangler either. The inlet and exhaust manifolds, while attached using the same fixings, are completely independent of each other. Machining one wouldn't affect its relationship to the other.
However, I'm not trying to start a disagreement and if the job has been done satisfactorily and you're happy with it, that's all that matters.
1Aauto honored the warranty, kudos to them on that.
I took it to a mechanic shop and he hooked up a computer and it doesn't have any codes that come up besides a 0-2 sensor bank 1 sensor 2. He said that, that sensor would not be causing this problem. If you have any ideas or suggestions please write me back. Thanks
Have you done a basic tune up by replacing spark plugs and wires? Fuel injector maintenance? Greased the greasable points? Changed the oil? Changed fluids in the axles?
-Paul
Obviously you've checked for a blocked air filter, but have you checked for a blocked fuel filter or under-performing fuel pump?
I switched to 10w50 and the pressure didn't drop as much, 5 psi. I read about using Lucas oil. I now use 4 qts 5 w 50 and 1 qt of lucas oil conditioner. I still see the pressure drop, but generally about 15 psi. If it does, I increase idle and it comes up.
Early in the hunt, I found one guy who told me I only need about 3 psi. and one that said to treat as an idiot light. These are both good advice.
-Paul
I switched to 10w50 and it was a little better. I drained one quart and put in a quart of Lucas Oil. Oil pressure rarely gets below 10 - 15. I just drive it and watch the oil pressure.
I would like to try all synthetic oil that won't break down.
Knowing the code he got would help.
The clockspring allows the horn, airbags, and cruise controls if he has them, to stay connected when the wheel is turned.
AFAIK there is no connection between any of those and the TPS, other than that the TPS signal is part of the information used by the PCM for regulation of the cruise control.
However, the TPS circuit is not part of the clockspring circuit, and whether it's connected or not should have no effect on the TPS or its behavior.
You may have a bad new TPS (unlikely but possible), it may have been installed incorrectly (more likely), or it may have never been needed at all (much more likely).
Without knowing the code it's impossible to tell, but the symptoms could also be indicative of an issue with the fuel system or the MAP sensor, or it could be as simple as a dirty throttle body that needs cleaning.
Also my oil pressure gauge was reading low so my mechanics put in a quart of lucas oil and it is doing better... but when i idle it goes to 0 but goes back up when i start moving... any ideas??
As for your oil. Your oil sending unit may be on the fritz or you just need a good oil change. Sounds like things may be a bit gunked up. So run with new oil and perhaps add a cleaning agent if there are any for oil, then change again in 3000 miles.
-Paul
What are some ideas on parts to get from a junkyard?
For major safety or driveline stuff, I tend to go new. But for accessories like switch bezels, body parts (windshield frame, cowl, fender), junkyards are great. I have a good rapport with the local yard that tends to have a LOT of TJ stuff so they let me wander the yard and see what I need.
-Paul
I checked for codes, there wasn't any still lost
Could you explain that a little more clearly?
For instance, is it from a stop or while moveing? Does the engine rev up but you don't move or go any faster, or does the engine speed remain the same when you put your foot on the gas?
That would be true of the MAP sensor as well, but faults with either of them will usually throw up a code.
It's beginning to sound like it's fuel related rather than electrical.
Possibly water contaminated gas, a partially blocked fuel filter, or maybe a failing fuel pump.
If it's any of those then the tank will have to be dropped to access the pump and filter, and to drain the final amount of gas.
Safari Header top
Windjammer
Duster Deck Cover
Question: How water tight would it be?
What problems to expect?
Also, any recommendations on cheap replacement of rear deck carpet.
Any ideas appreciated
Recommendations on rear deck carpet? Line it with Monstaliner or Line-X.
-Paul
Highly unlikely. What year, what engine?
If it worked before you changed the plugs and not after, you apparently didn't do something right.
-Paul
That was my first thought, but as no details were given as to engine and year we don't know if was a model with a coil rail.
once again I am turning to the people of the most trustworthy repair forum I know for guidance in things vehicular maintenance. Yesterday I ventured to replace the thermostat on my 2000 wrangler with the 4.0 6cyl. After several cheap busted duralast gaskets (curse them) i finally got the housing to seal to the block without spewing antifreeze everywhere. then I went to put the belt back on and ran it through all the pulleys (flat to flat ribbed to ribbed) and when I went to put the last part on, i slipped it right over the idler pulley without any trouble at all. now there is a good inch or two of play in it and when i crank the engine nothing turns but the crank pulley, considering the belt wont catch. i thought, hey maybe i stretched the belt out when i pulled it off, so i went and got a brand new one. same story.
now Ive tried several different configurations, and none work. also the only one that makes sense is the one that I used originally where i still have some play, also it looks as though the belt would rub between the idler and the tensioner pulley.
somebody please help me with this, seeing as i need my jeep back ASAP, im a lesser human being without it.