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Mercedes-Benz C-Class Maintenance and Repair
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I reside currently in the Illinois area but previously lived in kansas city Mo. and both MB dealerships charged approx. $500.00
I stopped taking my 2000 C230K to an MB Dealership in 2005 and take it to a Bosch authorized independent repair shop.
When I was in Kansas city, Mo 2005-2008 I went to star motors.
Now,2009 I go to Edwardsville Auto Inc. near my current residence in Illinois. Much more reasonable and same person services my car so he knows what is going on with my car and I like dealing with the same mechanic.
you can find a bosch independent mechanic at www.boschservice.com
hope this helps.
NOTE: The temperature on the car engine is normal at all times.
The rain X laditute and Anco sb24 blades do not fit and the bosch site does not list any.
Any info on what the fix would be?
Thanks
Phil
I know that I also need to clean and repack the front wheel bearings with fresh grease, so will probably need to go to the dealer to buy the grease seals.
If it were my car, I'd think that we're certainly getting close to the time when new hoses would be a good idea. Frankly, I don't think the materials matter much - it's how the car is used, and the miles [you don't say how many miles are on the car]. Heat is the enemy - if you live in a warm climate, or do a lot of hot weather driving, then replacing the hoses would be a good thing, period.
still getting used to moving from compact hondas to german builds so getting accustomed to noises,
its a great car because sometimes i have to check if she is even running,
but sometimes she is temperamental, moans like an old lady,
i have never known much about cars and having new ones does not help either,
a first used car experience is sure educational
I am glad for this website sure helps alot.
I should disconnecting battery cable prior to unplugging electrical wires.
I think that it has open circuit in feedback system had to reset.
Anybody had a similar experience on this matter?
Thanks, Raymond
I too have a 04 C240 and have had the same problem with the drivers seat fuse going out. I was told that the weight of the person in the seat was causing the seat motor to pull more current and that was causing the fuse to blow. I have an issue too, my A/C from time to time has a whinning noise that seems only to be noticable inslde of the car, to me its like a cat whinning noise. Ever experienced this with your C240?
1. Fuel filter choked,
2. Fuel pump faulty, or delivery pressure low,
3. Timing chain incorrectly fitted,
4. Uneven or low cylinder compressions,
5. Worn, faulty or incorrectly gapped spark plugs,
6. Vacuum leak at the throttle body, inlet manifold,
7. Blocked injector/fuel injection system fault.
Anybody had similar problem ? Are the headlamps self adjusting ?? Is there an adjustment screw(s) ??
Any help appreciated ? Thanks.
Dealers no real help yet. Will have to go & see them & have them advise.
PS Members might like to know that Haynes have just published an updated guide on the Mercedes C Class (up to 07) No.4780.
ouchie
R
Wow, I just bought my 1st Benz and would like to know how often it should be "tuned"? It's a 1998 and the previous owner took pretty good care of it and I would like to do the same. It currently has 145+k miles.
Peace
Ouogahdo
The turn signals and the washer+wipers control doesn't work (at a time) as well as the hazard ligths. I was thinking that could be the control switch or some control module somewhere in the car. Now the question is: are you shure is something wrong with the battery or that can be just part of the problem.
Two days ago the check engine light came on and stays on. I checked the gas cap and made sure it is on tight. The light is still on. It runs fine, engine is quiet and runs/idles smooth. What is the next thing I can check that I may be able to do myself before taking it in for diagnostics check? Can I still drive it while the check engine light is on?
Given the car is running well and not misfiring you should be OK to drive it for a short time to find out what's wrong. If the check engine light flashes don't drive it as you could ruin your catalytic converter.
I went to autozone an the code that their scanner stated:
PO410 - secondary air injection system malfunction.
So I then also took the other response posted today and bought techron feul inj. cleaner and poured that into the tank with a full tank of gas.
I figure could not hurt. Feul injector cleaner had not been done in a good while.
I will go back and have the scan redone. To see if it will reset the computer on my car. Otherwise if it does not what do you think ?
air pump
one way valve
hose
air fuse
where is the air pump fuse (I looked in the compartment under the hood and did not see a listing)
could a faulty air mass flow sensor cause this code or would a specific code for that sensor come up?
I called the MB dealership and they said that code is non specific and they'd just have to start changing parts to see what the problem is. $85 hr
So I guess I could do the same thing myself.
Where is a good website that shows locations of these parts on the MB ?
I should be able to replace the air pump, air pump fuse, air hose,one way valve.
this is a great website, everyone has always been very helpful.
(side note: this is the first time I've had any engine type problem, anything else was always very minor so am very impressed with MB. I've owned my car for 6 -almost 7 yrs and it is 9 almost 10 yrs old)
Also is it complicated to install myself?
thanks for your info, I'll keep it on hand if the check engine light comes back on.
(It's been two weeks now it is off so maybe the techron was the fix needed)
Very often, one slight misfire, caused by some water in the fuel (especially right after a fill-up), will throw a code. Sometimes you have to reset the light, sometimes it will go out---depends.
-Buy two replacement OEM FRONT wheels - there are plenty of sources on the internet, though it would not surprise me to find that this might cost almost as much as...
-Buy four wheels from a source like Tire Rack - they have dozens of choices, and four of them might not add up to much more than two look-alike front wheels.
You can also call TireRack and ask one of their specialists to recommend some wheels. The exact rim width doesn't matter so much as having ALL of them the same spec if you intend to rotate them.
In your shoes, I'd first try to see if I could economically find two OEM front wheels to match the ones you currently have. If that proves fruitless, or too expensiive, consider going the way of 4 replacement wheels.
The staggered setup on the Sport model is strictly for show, is a pain in the butt in a number of respects, and is one of the reasons I chose a Lux over a Sport when we bought our W204 two years ago.