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P.S. I could not sleep last night after I noticed some big black cars passed my house several times..:-)
At 70MPH on US 27, I finally got up the nerve (whew!) and pushed the ta-da, trunk release button on the driver's door. Click! But I see nothing in my rearview mirror. Pulled into a turn lane, made an illegal stop there, walked around and raised then closed my trunk lid.
Now the official results: Yes, on an '01 MM"P" the trunk lid can be released at highway speeds. But, the lid remains down even while braking to compensate for your stupidity of opening it while going down the highway at 70MPH. Case closed. Oh, but I guess it won't hurt to do it with a trunk full of loose feathers, because it stays closed.
I also thought of trying to induce that dashboard squeak by swiftly planting my shoe heel firmly in the center of the panel between the air bag and glove box. Thankfully I was able to control that urge in time to save myself several hundred dollars. Please don't force me to destroy my beautiful (and silent) Millenia to satisfy your sadistic curiosities.
Tomek
I agree my MM is the best car of the 20 some I have had in almost 50 years of driving. The only other I wish I had back was my '68 Charger. Not an RT, just a 318, but I should have never let it go. Most seemed like a great idea at the time, but turned out to be less than desirable. This one after almost two years is like new in every way, and I feel good just driving it.
Both my wife and I really enjoy the strong air intake sound the MM has on hard acceleration. And it is truly the best highway car I have ever driven. Not a buzz or vibration at any speed. If not for a little noise from those Michelins on coarse pavement, it would be almost silent. And I do not usually have the radio on to mask noises.
Sorry tig2000 if I somehow upset you. It was not intended.
I don't like my Millenia, I just love it! The way it looks, the way it drives, and the way it smells. In fact I noticed an interesting thing: the value of this car slightly increases. Can this be true? I check the value of the vehicle in one month increments on kbb.com, and it increases with every month I own it. Even when I change the mileage readings to the most current one (approx. 1K/month). Happy to see that my car is not only unique, but also keeps the value well. But who knows when it comes to selling or trading point...
I had read a lot last year from people complaining about the depreciation, and compared it to the Maximas and found little difference in residual value.
I will run mine until the wheels are worn down to the axles though, even if I get another new car. I always have two cars. So resale makes no difference to me.
KBB was also showing a trade-in at a little less than $15500 with 11500 miles in excellent condition.
Heads do turn when I pull up in my car. You just don't see one every mile like Accords, Camrys, Maximas, etc. I also keep it exceptionally clean and the silver with the chrome wheels is extremely sharp looking.
Our temperatures range from 20 to 97 degrees f. Not exactly Feb and summer. We have several month of GORGEOUS spring and fall weather. The hot summer months are from about mid June to mid September. I lived in Missouri until I was 18. The summers there were shorter, but every bit if not more hot and humid. Anything above Iowa I consider the Tundra.
Who do you trust anymore? fairwood
With my SuperCharger gone , I am going through Four quarts every week. Any suggestions?
Was there any discussion about replacing 'S' - Miller Cycle engine with the regular engine? Is this possible?
Thanks.
"Four quarts every week" ... over how many miles?
As fwatson points out, how much you're talking for sc replacement? Have you tried getting it from a junkyard (given its decent brakes, there must be some Millenias S rear-ended out there)
Tomek
Since then I had to put four quarts of OIL every 1000 mi ( approx ) until recently. In the last month I see a change in the pattern with OIL LOW light coming ON every week. I put four quarts last Monday, I might have driven for three days during the week (approx 100mi) and this morning ( Monday) on my way to work I had the OIL light come up. It took four quarts again.
I was told a Used - SC is $4500. Is that true?
Thanks.
http://www.car-part.com/
1995 Turbocharger/Supercharger 16117 $1400
Standard Auto Recycling USA-CA(Chula-Vista) 1-619-426-1166
I had a 99p (pearl white) and all I fed it was 93octane.
The car was solid as a bullet for the 39 months I had it.
APPLICABLE MODEL(S)/VINS
All 1995 - 2002 Millenia models with 2.5L V6 (KL)
Description
After a cold start, MIL comes on with DTC P0300 to P0306 stored in the memory. In most cases, this concern may be caused by misfire occurring in one cylinder during idle. The use of premium fuel (high-octane fuel) may be allowing carbon deposits to accumulate on the exhaust valve seat, causing momentary insufficient compression.
To correct this concern, remove carbon deposits using a suitable top engine cleaner.
Note: After removing the carbon deposits, be sure to advise the customer to use lower-octane fuel (87 or 89 octane) to help prevent future recurrences.
This doesn't sound like dealer baloney to me.
People just can't seem to understand that the only reason for a higher octane fuel is if the engine pings or knocks. Mine has never done either, and runs perfectly under all conditions. That old high octane fable, that your car will run better, has been around as long as there has been more than one grade of fuel and the oil companies could charge more for it. There is actually less energy in high octane gasoline than in the cheaper stuff. That is because the anti-knock additives displace some of the exact same fuel that you pay less for.
I checked AllData for 2001 Mazda MMP: That is TSB #5
http://www.alldata.com/TSB/33/01333664.html
1. 0700103 MAY 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Type Odors
2. 0800103 MAY 03 Air Bag System - Parts Replacement After Deployment
3. 0700402 APR 03 A/C - Musty/Mildew Odors
4. S01898 APR 03 Body - Wind Noise Around Doors
5. 0102702 APR 03 Engine - MIL ON/ DTC's P0300 - P0306 Set
6. 0102902 APR 03 Exhaust System - Sulfur Smell
7. 0100701 APR 03 Fuel System - MIL ON/DTCP1455/Erratic Gauge Readings
8. 0901000 APR 03 Keyless Entry - Transmitter Battery Inspection
9. 0600103 APR 03 Steering Column - Stuck in 'UP' Position
10. 0200401 APR 03 Wheels - Chrome Wheel Rusting
11. 0700102R DEC 02 A/C - Water Leaks onto Passenger Floor
12. 0100701R AUG 02 Fuel System - MIL ON/Fuel Gauge Inaccurate/Erratic
13. 0700302 MAY 02 A/C - Cabin Air Filter Replacement
14. 0700202 APR 02 A/C - Lack of Heat in Passenger Compartment
15. 0101302 APR 02 Fuel System - Fuel Injector Replacement Guidelines
16. 0100602 FEB 02 Fuel System - Fuel Pump/Component Replacement Guidelines
17. 0901801 DEC 01 Accessories - Keyless Entry Service Information
18. 0600101R1 NOV 01 Steering - Tilt Steering Wheel Inoperative
19. 0900701 OCT 01 Audio System - Radio Removal Precautions
20. 0101601 OCT 01 Fuel System - Difficult Fuel Pump Installation
21. 0200401R AUG 01 Wheels - 17 Inch Chrome Wheel Corrosion
22. 0500101 APR 01 A/T - Whining/Ringing Noise in Interior
23. 0900700 JUL 00 Interior - Cigarette Lighter Does Not Work Properly
Thanks for that enlightening information misty8
People debate gas-a-hol, but it does keep things cleaner. My brother was in the convience store business for many years. He has seen first hand how much cleaner the inner workings of an old pump are that dispensed blended fuel.
I also think much of the call for premium is pure snob appeal. Honda and Acura share engines that are tweeked here and there, but all Acuras call for premium, not the case with Honda. Just being snobish IMHO.
My '01 P runs slightly below the middle of the gauge. I leave the Climate Control on auto 76degrees year round, and it heats and cools as it should. Of course it doesn't get -30 here, but the HVAC system seems very well thought out, so I am sure it will not leave you cold. In Canada, you should also have the optional bunn warmer.
fairwood
It is a "non-interference" engine, meaning if the valves get out of time they will not collide with the pistons.
My 2001 P does not call for replacement until 105000 nationwide. Check the Gates Rubber site for a chart.
" if all else fails, READ THE MANUAL. fairwood"
I have read the entire manual and am aware of the "Recommended" vs "Required" fuel entry. There is also a label at the fuel filler with the same information. I think the Primium requirement on the S is due to the increased pressure of the air entering the cylinders. On both models though, the engine computer is capable of automatically changing the timing to compensate for octane. But while I lose no performance from that on my P, you might see a difference on the S.
The "T" numbers are recommended belts, and none of the Millenias have interferrence engines. As you can see, the exact belt number is recommended whether California or Federal.
--------------------------
Millenia
1995-96 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000 Federal 105,000 Federal
1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 105,000
1997-00 2.3L V6 (Miller Cycle) T267 60,000
1995-96 2.5L V6 T214 60,000 Federal 105,000 Federal
1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 105,000
1997-00 2.5L V6 T214 60,000
2001 2.5L V6 T214 105,000
--------------------------------
Engine-----Interference-----Notes
2.3L V6---------NO----------(32)
2.5L V6---------NO----------(32)
Notes: (32)
On 1996 & prior models, replace every 60,000 miles.
On 1997-98 CA & MA vehicles, belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles.
On all other 1997-98 models, replace every 60,000 miles.
On 1999 & later CA, CT, DE, DC, ME, MD, MA, NH, NJ, NY, PA, RI, VT & VA vehicles belt inspection at 60,000 miles, then again at 90,000 miles, is recommended but not required, but it should be replaced at 105,000 miles.
On all other 1999 & later models replace every 60,000 miles.
------------------------------------
The charts do not completely agree. But it is easy to see that the only reason for the 60000 mile changes on newer models is because they can get away with it. I can see no reason, given our engines are non-interference, that the belt needs changed before 105000, and you might get by never changing it. The worse that can happen is that the car would quit running. Of course you might have to walk home if that happened. ;-)
I save my online anger for "trolls" such as one we had here a few months back. Thankfully he gave up and disappeared.
Thanks!
I lost a cover on Nissan Stanza years ago, I can still remember my shock (no awe) hearing from the dealer "$60 ... so I don't think you'll want one"
All I know now is that I'm confused... but, if I keep this car that long, I'll take my chances with the timing belt up to 100K (given the non-interference engine).
Now, they want to have spark plugs changed at 60K - has anyone done that on Mill S? How much $$$ at the dealer?
Tomek
Tomek
Hope everybody has a happy and safe holiday.