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Hi, I have an 02 European Cherokee (Liberty) and the front fog lamps aren't working. I've checked the fuse and that seems OK, I've also checked one of the bulbs and that seems fine too. My questions are:
1. If one bulb blows does that mean both lights won't work? If so, I'll check the other one too. 2. Are there any common wiring faults I should be aware of?
The rear fog lamps works OK. We are having Autumn fogs here in the UK so any help will be much appreciated.
I am new to this forum, but I find it very informative. Just changed the alternator on my 2005 Liberty CRD, at 76,000 miles! I use a "remanufactured unit" that was a lot less than one from MOPAR. The "reman" unit was $150 less and guarenteed. The alternator change was straight forward. Three bolts and it's off. The serpentine belt was a challenge. Clearnace between the fan shroud and the auto tensioner is very tight. I was able to use a metric socket with a 3/8in drive breaker bar, and a "homemade" extension on the breaker bar to gain enough leverage to get the tensioner to release. Interestingly, the center bolt on the tensioner moves it! The whole removal and install took about 45 minutes.
Found out the hard way, don't let the dealer replace the fuel filter. The "labor operation code" lists 1 hour for the change! At my local Jeep dealer, that's $100 ! It takes maybe 5 minutes to change the filter and maybe another 3 minute to prime it. Chalk it up to lessons learned :-(
Hi davep5, I chose to install a new alternator because I can not evaluate the effect of vibrations on the varnish used to isolate the copper windings. The new alternator also came with a free wheeling pulley and the refurbished model had a fixed pulley (on the picture). All in all I got what I paid for.
I developed the same hissing noise cited by some here and will take the cue from iee750mk - #10672: (Turbocharger) Boost Hose. The symptom absolutely seems related to the engine under load (with a slight delay) = increased turbocharger output. Will let ya'll know how it turns out. I recently did my 1st replacement of the fuel-water separator at 62k, and wonder if I jarred something loose in the process ?
Fuel filter change is not a five minute job. I have done it several times (yearly) and altogether takes about forty-five minutes.
It looks like you need to remove a few sensors and bingo off the filter comes, but that is not the case. You need to remove the sensors at their connections and the hoses, then unbolt the whole unit from the firewall. Once off and out of the engine bay, it is a piece of cake to do what needs to be done and you do not end up dumping diesel fuel all over the ground.
You take the whole fuel filter assembly off to change the fuel filter? What a waste of time. Take the WIF sensor connector off and just spin the filter off.
my 2005 CRD (love it) has been giving me belt chirping noise..idler pulleys replaced 5 times and belt 3X...the last dealer visit the shop told me that rust on the pulley causes this...i do not believe this...anyone else with this issue and/or solutions?
There are at least two models of fuel filter housings. http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Corps_filtre.jpg Mine is the "Parker_Racor" type and I can spill fuel because the water separator bowl is fairly large and the fuel gasket between bowl and cartridge comes out of it's seat without warning I tried both ways and prefer to clamp the housing over the angle of a workbench to recuperate the fuel and torque the cartridge without damaging other equipment.
I posed this question to this forum back in 2005. Since that time, I am assuming that the increased experience with the Jeep Liberty CRD may give me a better answer. OK, with that prelude here it is:
How long will the turbocharger last?
I do not drive the vehicle at high speeds. Occasionally I pull a 5' X 8' trailer. I change the oil regularly, a bit more often than the owner's manual requires.
What signs or indications will the engine give if turbocharger failure is imminent?
How much of a cool-down is necessary with ordinary driving. Past comments given were to sit in the vehicle for a couple minutes with the engine idling.
Are there other oils that treat the turbo as well as Mobil 1?
As our CRD engines age, this question becomes increasingly important. The local dealer changed out the engine of a Liberty CRD a few months ago due to turbo failure. The people at the dealer told me that the woman who owned the vehicle had not been changing her oil.
I realize that these are the same old questions that the forum has beat on before, but I'm hoping that with time, we're all a bit wiser. I don't want my Jeep stuck in a snow bank with a blown turbo this Winter.
Yeah everyone has there own way of doing things. We are all different, it would be a boring world if everyone was the same. Whatever works for the individual.
Does anyone out there have any experience with the 3.0 CRD.
Are there other oils that treat the turbo as well as Mobil 1?
In my view, Mobil has not kept up with synthetic oil technology. My dealer has stopped using Mobil 1 in the Liberty CRD as well as the Grand Cherokee CDI because of lubrication issues and oil consumption issues.
I did use Amsoil in my CRD but found that I had a consumption issue. I use Amsoil in my wife's Chrysler without a problem. I am using RedLine 5W-40 and only add after 4000 miles of driving.
The big items to keeping a turbo healthy are frequent oil changes, the use of a good quality lubricant, watching oil consumption ( a side effect of owning a turbocharger engine), light engine demand until the engine is at operating temperature, and resting or cooling down the turbo after driving it. The cool down schedule in the owner's manual seems to be fine. This is my second turbocharged vehicle and I have not had any issues with turbocharger failure or turbocharger malfunction. I always cool down after running the engine, use a high quality lubricant and change oil more frequently than the manufacturer requires. As to turbocharger durability, with good care, at least several hundreds of thousands of miles.
As to the person who did not change oil in their CRD, what do you expect?
I have 88k miles on my '06 Liberty CRD and I have always used Mobil 1 5W-40 Turbo Diesel Blend Oil. So far it is serving me well with no EGR problems and only an occasional turbo boost pressure sensor fault SEL. At 6k miles my oil is less than 1/2 quart low unless I have been working the turbo really hard by towing or other activity. I would switch to another oil if I had a good reason to do so. I change my oil about every 6k miles spring thru fall when outside temps are at 50 degrees or above. Before the FROSTY weather comes, I change my oil every 3k miles. I am considering using my engine block heater this winter just to keep the oil a little warmer in cold weather starts. I read a LONG but interesting paper about engine wear vs. oil change intervals and weather. I think there is definitely far more engine wear in the "cold start" winter months. I know the CRD is a little fussy and requires some effort to maintain but I really love my Liberty CRD!
I started changing my own Water Separator/Fuel Filters a year or so ago when my wife filled my CRD's tank with E-85 instead of Diesel! I posted a pretty detailed description of that job on this forum. As for the filter & WIF sensor, I tried to remove it as specified in the Jeep Factory Service Manual and it was too difficult from below. I ended up taking off the fuel hoses and clearing the area around the filter. Then I put a oil filter wrench (scissors type) on the housing and spun it loose from the engine compartment. I spilled a little fuel when removing the old filter but it was no big deal. I think 30 to 45 minutes is about right for the filter change but I did not remove the housing from the fire wall, just hoses and the filter cannister/WIF sensor.
I use my block heater. In cold Northern weather, I've found the diesel to be so sluggish that I feel I'm a hazard on the road otherwise. The engine warms up much faster and a side benefit is that there is near immediate heating and defrosting.
I stopped using formulations like Mobil 1 5W-40 diesel because of the CI-4+ rating, namely too much ash. I find that CJ rated oils do the trick being sufficiently low in ash that the EGR issue goes away.
As to the block heater, I started using it last year and enjoyed having heat nearly instantly after starting my CRD.
Recently my CRD threw a code, P1263 when viewed from the odometer. As it turns out, it was wrong as the number two glow plug had failed (P0672) and was replaced under warranty. The tech at the dealer told me not to trust the codes that can be made to appear at the odometer and that a scan tool is the way to go. I asked the tech for some suggestions as to which tool to purchase and he had none to offer.
Has anyone found a good scan tool that works correctly with the CRD? Suggestions and thoughts welcome.
Hi winter2, How often will you really need to use the OBDII_Euro scan tool? After six years of ownership and 100,000 miles I haven't yet had to use it.
Well, that is a good question. I am starting to throw codes a bit more frequently as the Jeep ages, and this is bothersome to me, thus the request for information. Also, the codes that appear on the odometer are proving to be unreliable.
Walmart carries many items and then inconsistently. If I had to buy my oil at Walmart, then the Shell Rotella 5W-40, with the proviso it is CJ rated, would be my first choice, but then again I avoid Walmart like the plague.
I suggest and oil like Amsoil or RedLine. With Amsoil, you can become a "preferred customer" for a few dollars a year and buy their products at deal cost. My preference is Red Line as it has very low oil consumption and keeps everything squeaky clean. It costs more but then it is cheaper than a new engine.
This evening I received a call from another 2005 Jeep Liberty CRD owner who uses the same dealer I use. The dealer asked me to speak with this fellow.
In our discussion I learned the following.
1. His CRD has about 74K miles on it. He purchased it new and has been using the Mobil 1 0W-40 oil. Oil change interval is 6250 miles. 2. Up to about a year ago, oil consumption was not an issue and he told me took a 6000 mile cross country trip without a problem. 3. Oil consumption is about 500 miles/quart. There is no external oil leak. 4. On start up, there is a little white smoke but no blue smoke. There is no blue smoke that is visible when driven. 5. He does a "nose" blowing every second or third day and gets a significant amount of black soot coming out of the exhaust each time. For about one year most of his driving is stop and go city. 6. He uses the cheapest fuel he can find, a no name brand which I avoid. He does not use any fuel additives. 7. States has good power at all times.
I suggested that he stop using the Mobil 1 and try either Shell Rotella 5W-40, RedLine or Amsoil. Also suggested he put some decent additive in the fuel to clean out the fuel system and combustion chambers.
I am of the opinion that there are several places to look here.
1. Turbocharger is starting to fail. 2. Bad valve seals or bad valve guides 3. Warn piston rings, a broken piston ring(s) or carbon loaded rings. 4. Oil being pulled into the engine by some other route that I have not thought of.
Basic Causes of huge oil consumption: 1. Turbo bearing seals leaking oil directly into exhaust. 2. Broken / stuck / wornout piston oil ring. 3. Gouge on cylinder wall 4. Plugged PVC device causing oil to be sucked into intake air stream
All of these items except item 1 will cause rough engine performance becuase oil enters combustion chamber and may cause misfits or incomplete combustion. Eventual engine exhaust will carbon up.
Items 2 & 4 are usually found on higher mileage cars with poor service history/ Item 1 found on mid to hig mileage car which are driven at highway speed and then not allowed to cool off turbo before shutdown. :mad:
Item three is usually caused by missing air filter allowing foreign object into intake air stream and damaging engine cylinder. A broken fin on turbo may also cause engine damage of cylinder, head and valves This is usually death of engine if not corrected immediately before cascading failures blow engine. :sick:
Using 1 quart of oil per 1K mile is normal (says Chrysler). Items above are indicated by several quarts of oil per 1K miles or smoke cloud behing car.
The Liberty Diesel drain plug has a weird, seldom used size, 16.4mm with 1.33mm pitch. Neither metric nor SAE nor BSW. Just plain odd. Maybe an old marine standard? VM Motori was/is a marine engine supplier. My solution is to drill and tap to 18-1.0(best) or 18-1.5(ok). There are cheap 18-1mm taps on ebay right now! (but 18-1 bolts/plugs are hard to come by!) Since an 18-1 requires a 17mm tap drill size, this will work. An 18-1.5 requires a 16.5mm tap drill size so that works too since our original hole has a major diameter at about 16mm.
Small error, our drain-plug's major diameter is about 16.4, not 16.0 as I said in previous post. That is still ok if you are going to use an 18-1.5 plug using the 16.5 tap drill.
I had my fuel filter changed at the dealer two weeks ago. When I go the Jeep back it now sputters around 1400 RPM, more-so when warming up after it has been driven to operational temperature and then turned off for a while. I took it back the following Wednesday to have them fix it. What they told me is that I have to replace the filter housing under a TSB # 12-011-09 issued April 17,th 2009 to correct the problem. TSB cover the “HARD START or NO START or ROUGH IDLE” and covers ALL 2005 through 2007 vehicles with the VM 2.8L turbo Diesel (Cherokee, Liberty, and Voyager) sale code ENR. I was quote $200.41 for the new housing installed. The part numbers are: Wiring Kit – 6804308644, and Fuel filter/Water Separator Assembly Kit - 68043089AA, labor is listed at 0.5 for KJ (Labor Operations No. 14-40-02-91) Now this problem didn’t exist before the filter change, and I haven’t had any issue with the dealer before this service. Today, I went to the dealer to get the O-rings for the fuel filter (to change it myself) and they can’t be ordered separately. SO I ask for the complete filter kit (includes O-rings), then he tells me they can’t even get the fuel filter for the housing I have in my CRD the stock is “ZERO” at the dealer and Jeep. :sick: I got the last filter from their shelf. They can get the new filter part number Has anybody else been informed of this TSB? I had 69,931 miles when I took it in for the fuel filter and oil change (Mobil 1 0W-40 since new) every 5000 miles and they told me the warranty would not cover this Chrysler forced change. I have been reading this forum since the beginning and bought my CRD in July of 2005. I have had the recalls completed, and the F37 did reduce the power. Now it is harder to maintain speed with our (3000#) 18’ camper in tow, the CRD is now more like our Montero we traded-in as it didn’t have the power if I turn on the A/C. The CRD did tow well until the F37 and it was part of the purchase agreement I had with the dealer at time of purchase: The CRD had to pull the camper without struggling and it did in the test drive with the camper in tow.
I purchased the 2006 CRD new and have had 2 problems up until this week. One or both may have contributed to the CRD death.
The first problem has been occurring since the vehicle was new. Every few months, the engine would loose power and run really rough. After shutting down the engine and waiting a few minutes, I would be able to restart the engine and all was fine. I asked the Jeep dealer about this back in 2006 but it always worked fine when I took it in. I researched on this forum and determined this was an injector pump timing fault and there was no known fix. I decided to live with the problem since I generally get about 25mpg and it towed my boat.
The second problem: About 6 months ago, it started losing coolant. Took to the dealer and they said the water pump was bad. They said it had 81k miles so I should replace the timing belt as well. I agreed. I went to pick it up and it spewed tons of black smoke and had no power. Took it back and after several more days they determined the timing belt was off by a tooth and they tore it back down and installed it correctly (I assume). They also upgraded the computer programming at this time. Since that time it’s been hard to start and blowing more smoke on startup and when shifting. During cruise, I didn’t notice any smoke. I did inform the dealer of the hard start issue and smoke, but they told me to run it on highway for 25 times then get back to them. (I felt like they didn’t know what the problem was and just wanted to get rid of me) It seemed to have adequate power, so I dismissed these possible signals. Additional online research indicated the engine smokes more as the engine ages if you don’t perform maintenance (clean the lines to the turbo,MAF etc). I monitored the coolant level weekly and it hasn’t lost any coolant since that time.
The Big Bang! Last week when cruising at 65mph (has 85k miles on it now), it suddenly lost power and started running rough again. No warning lights, temp gauge read normal. I recognized the situation immediately and put it in neutral and coasted to the shoulder. It was running really rough like previous times, and I did “the reboot procedure”. I shut it down and waited a few minutes, restarted it, but still rough. I repeated this procedure 3 times because in the past, I’ve had to do this procedure up to 5 or 6 times before it ran normally.
On 3rd attempted restart: The engine started, but was still running rough. I turned off the ignition, and as then engine was stopping I heard a mechanical thud as crank shaft stopped abruptly. I figured something locked up, so I hit the starter one more time to confirm my suspicion, and sure enough, the starter engaged, but the engine wouldn’t turn over. Looked under the hood and nothing seemed awry except the coolant reservoir, which was empty.
The dealer showed me the damage today. They showed me a damaged valve, damaged head, and the cylinder sleeve that was cracked in 3 places. It was the cylinder closest to the front of the vehicle. Apparently the coolant flooded the cylinder and cracked the sleeve.
Maybe my anger is misplaced, but I feel like this “injector pump timing fault” problem caused this engine damage. I remember the very first time this happened back in 2006 and I thought the engine was going to be damaged because it was running so rough.
Where the blame falls: Is it possible the injector pump fault caused this? If not, what could have caused this? Head Gasket? Is it possible the dealer messed it up when the replaced the water pump and timing belt? (4000 miles ago?) Any chance I can get Jeep to cover all/part of repair since this injector pump problem has occurred since new? Is this my fault for being stupid and trying to restart the engine? Just my bad luck?
Sounds like to me that when they did your timing belt they did not get the engine timed right. When the timing is off, the pistons can hit the valves and bend them. They have already admitted to this. In the factory tool kit there are pins that slide in the cams so you know that it is timed correctly. Did they not use these or know how the change a timing belt? If they can not change a timing belt correctly then I would not trust them to rebuild your engine. I will never let a dealer touch my CRD. Find a good diesel mechanic.
I was informed of the TSB and they wanted $420 for the operation.
I purchased three new fuel separator filter units on EBay from Hall Chrysler Jeep in MIchigan. They're sitting on my shelf and I intend to use them when it needs changing. I figure by avoiding the migration to a new filter housing (the two I've had have worked fine and my 2005 CRD is running flawlessly) I can use the "old style" filters.
Make sure the belt is routed carefully; mine chirped when I took the Jeep out of the 60,000 miles service. The alternator pulley must have the belt wrapped over more than half of the pulley. This is achieved by passing the belt towards the inside of the lower pulley. My serpentine belt was still good after 60,000 miles
the belt has been replaced by the dealer 4 times as has the idler pulleys (a scheduled maintenance item). the chirp originates as a subtle noise every 5 or so revs but becomes louder under load (a/c and in drive with foot on the brake). most times it takes 15-20k miles before the sound is a constant nuisance but once it started back the day after the dealer replced the belt and another pulley.
The serpentine belt drives the fan, viscous heater, A/C compressor, alternator and one or two balancing masses if I remember correctly. The timing belt handles the water pump, camshafts and fuel pump. If the serpentine belt breaks, I would worry for the radiator.
Hi my belt has 95K on it. I get a little chirp now and then but nothing serious. I make sure thebelt is NOT over tight. I check the belt for cracks etc all the time but have not had problems nor replaced it yet. Funny my dealer has not reccomended it. A way to fix the chirp is to take a piece of bar soap, tie it to the end of a small rod and lubricate the belt. Watch not get it caught in anything. Or you can use some belt dressing.
Comments
1. If one bulb blows does that mean both lights won't work? If so, I'll check the other one too.
2. Are there any common wiring faults I should be aware of?
The rear fog lamps works OK. We are having Autumn fogs here in the UK so any help will be much appreciated.
We are entering into the fog here as well...
Just changed the alternator on my 2005 Liberty CRD, at 76,000 miles!
I use a "remanufactured unit" that was a lot less than one from MOPAR.
The "reman" unit was $150 less and guarenteed.
The alternator change was straight forward. Three bolts and it's off.
The serpentine belt was a challenge. Clearnace between the fan shroud and the auto tensioner is very tight. I was able to use a metric socket with a 3/8in drive breaker bar,
and a "homemade" extension on the breaker bar to gain enough leverage to get the tensioner to release. Interestingly, the center bolt on the tensioner moves it!
The whole removal and install took about 45 minutes.
The "labor operation code" lists 1 hour for the change!
At my local Jeep dealer, that's $100 !
It takes maybe 5 minutes to change the filter and maybe another 3 minute to prime it.
Chalk it up to lessons learned :-(
I chose to install a new alternator because I can not evaluate the effect of vibrations on the varnish used to isolate the copper windings. The new alternator also came with a free wheeling pulley and the refurbished model had a fixed pulley (on the picture). All in all I got what I paid for.
I developed the same hissing noise cited by some here and will take the cue from iee750mk - #10672: (Turbocharger) Boost Hose. The symptom absolutely seems related to the engine under load (with a slight delay) = increased turbocharger output. Will let ya'll know how it turns out. I recently did my 1st replacement of the fuel-water separator at 62k, and wonder if I jarred something loose in the process ?
It looks like you need to remove a few sensors and bingo off the filter comes, but that is not the case. You need to remove the sensors at their connections and the hoses, then unbolt the whole unit from the firewall. Once off and out of the engine bay, it is a piece of cake to do what needs to be done and you do not end up dumping diesel fuel all over the ground.
http://richard.fortin.free.fr/KJ_diesel/Corps_filtre.jpg
Mine is the "Parker_Racor" type and I can spill fuel because the water separator bowl is fairly large and the fuel gasket between bowl and cartridge comes out of it's seat without warning
I tried both ways and prefer to clamp the housing over the angle of a workbench to recuperate the fuel and torque the cartridge without damaging other equipment.
How long will the turbocharger last?
I do not drive the vehicle at high speeds. Occasionally I pull a 5' X 8' trailer. I change the oil regularly, a bit more often than the owner's manual requires.
What signs or indications will the engine give if turbocharger failure is imminent?
How much of a cool-down is necessary with ordinary driving. Past comments given were to sit in the vehicle for a couple minutes with the engine idling.
Are there other oils that treat the turbo as well as Mobil 1?
As our CRD engines age, this question becomes increasingly important. The local dealer changed out the engine of a Liberty CRD a few months ago due to turbo failure. The people at the dealer told me that the woman who owned the vehicle had not been changing her oil.
I realize that these are the same old questions that the forum has beat on before, but I'm hoping that with time, we're all a bit wiser. I don't want my Jeep stuck in a snow bank with a blown turbo this Winter.
I thank you in advance.
Does anyone out there have any experience with the 3.0 CRD.
In my view, Mobil has not kept up with synthetic oil technology. My dealer has stopped using Mobil 1 in the Liberty CRD as well as the Grand Cherokee CDI because of lubrication issues and oil consumption issues.
I did use Amsoil in my CRD but found that I had a consumption issue. I use Amsoil in my wife's Chrysler without a problem. I am using RedLine 5W-40 and only add after 4000 miles of driving.
The big items to keeping a turbo healthy are frequent oil changes, the use of a good quality lubricant, watching oil consumption ( a side effect of owning a turbocharger engine), light engine demand until the engine is at operating temperature, and resting or cooling down the turbo after driving it. The cool down schedule in the owner's manual seems to be fine. This is my second turbocharged vehicle and I have not had any issues with turbocharger failure or turbocharger malfunction. I always cool down after running the engine, use a high quality lubricant and change oil more frequently than the manufacturer requires. As to turbocharger durability, with good care, at least several hundreds of thousands of miles.
As to the person who did not change oil in their CRD, what do you expect?
I would switch to another oil if I had a good reason to do so. I change my oil about every 6k miles spring thru fall when outside temps are at 50 degrees or above. Before the FROSTY weather comes, I change my oil every 3k miles.
I am considering using my engine block heater this winter just to keep the oil a little warmer in cold weather starts. I read a LONG but interesting paper about engine wear vs. oil change intervals and weather. I think there is definitely far more engine wear in the "cold start" winter months. I know the CRD is a little fussy and requires some effort to maintain but I really love my Liberty CRD!
I use my block heater. In cold Northern weather, I've found the diesel to be so sluggish that I feel I'm a hazard on the road otherwise. The engine warms up much faster and a side benefit is that there is near immediate heating and defrosting.
As to the block heater, I started using it last year and enjoyed having heat nearly instantly after starting my CRD.
Has anyone found a good scan tool that works correctly with the CRD? Suggestions and thoughts welcome.
How often will you really need to use the OBDII_Euro scan tool? After six years of ownership and 100,000 miles I haven't yet had to use it.
Walmart carries many items and then inconsistently. If I had to buy my oil at Walmart, then the Shell Rotella 5W-40, with the proviso it is CJ rated, would be my first choice, but then again I avoid Walmart like the plague.
I suggest and oil like Amsoil or RedLine. With Amsoil, you can become a "preferred customer" for a few dollars a year and buy their products at deal cost. My preference is Red Line as it has very low oil consumption and keeps everything squeaky clean. It costs more but then it is cheaper than a new engine.
In our discussion I learned the following.
1. His CRD has about 74K miles on it. He purchased it new and has been using the Mobil 1 0W-40 oil. Oil change interval is 6250 miles.
2. Up to about a year ago, oil consumption was not an issue and he told me took a 6000 mile cross country trip without a problem.
3. Oil consumption is about 500 miles/quart. There is no external oil leak.
4. On start up, there is a little white smoke but no blue smoke. There is no blue smoke that is visible when driven.
5. He does a "nose" blowing every second or third day and gets a significant amount of black soot coming out of the exhaust each time. For about one year most of his driving is stop and go city.
6. He uses the cheapest fuel he can find, a no name brand which I avoid. He does not use any fuel additives.
7. States has good power at all times.
I suggested that he stop using the Mobil 1 and try either Shell Rotella 5W-40, RedLine or Amsoil. Also suggested he put some decent additive in the fuel to clean out the fuel system and combustion chambers.
I am of the opinion that there are several places to look here.
1. Turbocharger is starting to fail.
2. Bad valve seals or bad valve guides
3. Warn piston rings, a broken piston ring(s) or carbon loaded rings.
4. Oil being pulled into the engine by some other route that I have not thought of.
Any input/ideas welcome.
As always, thank you.
1. Turbo bearing seals leaking oil directly into exhaust.
2. Broken / stuck / wornout piston oil ring.
3. Gouge on cylinder wall
4. Plugged PVC device causing oil to be sucked into intake air stream
All of these items except item 1 will cause rough engine performance becuase oil enters combustion chamber and may cause misfits or incomplete combustion. Eventual engine exhaust will carbon up.
Items 2 & 4 are usually found on higher mileage cars with poor service history/
Item 1 found on mid to hig mileage car which are driven at highway speed and then not allowed to cool off turbo before shutdown. :mad:
Item three is usually caused by missing air filter allowing foreign object into intake air stream and damaging engine cylinder. A broken fin on turbo may also cause engine damage of cylinder, head and valves This is usually death of engine if not corrected immediately before cascading failures blow engine. :sick:
Using 1 quart of oil per 1K mile is normal (says Chrysler). Items above are indicated by several quarts of oil per 1K miles or smoke cloud behing car.
My solution is to drill and tap to 18-1.0(best) or 18-1.5(ok). There are cheap 18-1mm taps on ebay right now! (but 18-1 bolts/plugs are hard to come by!)
Since an 18-1 requires a 17mm tap drill size, this will work. An 18-1.5 requires a 16.5mm tap drill size so that works too since our original hole has a major diameter at about 16mm.
Now this problem didn’t exist before the filter change, and I haven’t had any issue with the dealer before this service. Today, I went to the dealer to get the O-rings for the fuel filter (to change it myself) and they can’t be ordered separately. SO I ask for the complete filter kit (includes O-rings), then he tells me they can’t even get the fuel filter for the housing I have in my CRD the stock is “ZERO” at the dealer and Jeep. :sick: I got the last filter from their shelf. They can get the new filter part number
Has anybody else been informed of this TSB?
I had 69,931 miles when I took it in for the fuel filter and oil change (Mobil 1 0W-40 since new) every 5000 miles and they told me the warranty would not cover this Chrysler forced change. I have been reading this forum since the beginning and bought my CRD in July of 2005. I have had the recalls completed, and the F37 did reduce the power. Now it is harder to maintain speed with our (3000#) 18’ camper in tow, the CRD is now more like our Montero we traded-in as it didn’t have the power if I turn on the A/C. The CRD did tow well until the F37 and it was part of the purchase agreement I had with the dealer at time of purchase: The CRD had to pull the camper without struggling and it did in the test drive with the camper in tow.
The first problem has been occurring since the vehicle was new. Every few months, the engine would loose power and run really rough. After shutting down the engine and waiting a few minutes, I would be able to restart the engine and all was fine. I asked the Jeep dealer about this back in 2006 but it always worked fine when I took it in. I researched on this forum and determined this was an injector pump timing fault and there was no known fix. I decided to live with the problem since I generally get about 25mpg and it towed my boat.
The second problem: About 6 months ago, it started losing coolant. Took to the dealer and they said the water pump was bad. They said it had 81k miles so I should replace the timing belt as well. I agreed. I went to pick it up and it spewed tons of black smoke and had no power. Took it back and after several more days they determined the timing belt was off by a tooth and they tore it back down and installed it correctly (I assume). They also upgraded the computer programming at this time. Since that time it’s been hard to start and blowing more smoke on startup and when shifting. During cruise, I didn’t notice any smoke. I did inform the dealer of the hard start issue and smoke, but they told me to run it on highway for 25 times then get back to them. (I felt like they didn’t know what the problem was and just wanted to get rid of me) It seemed to have adequate power, so I dismissed these possible signals. Additional online research indicated the engine smokes more as the engine ages if you don’t perform maintenance (clean the lines to the turbo,MAF etc). I monitored the coolant level weekly and it hasn’t lost any coolant since that time.
The Big Bang!
Last week when cruising at 65mph (has 85k miles on it now), it suddenly lost power and started running rough again. No warning lights, temp gauge read normal. I recognized the situation immediately and put it in neutral and coasted to the shoulder. It was running really rough like previous times, and I did “the reboot procedure”. I shut it down and waited a few minutes, restarted it, but still rough. I repeated this procedure 3 times because in the past, I’ve had to do this procedure up to 5 or 6 times before it ran normally.
On 3rd attempted restart: The engine started, but was still running rough. I turned off the ignition, and as then engine was stopping I heard a mechanical thud as crank shaft stopped abruptly. I figured something locked up, so I hit the starter one more time to confirm my suspicion, and sure enough, the starter engaged, but the engine wouldn’t turn over. Looked under the hood and nothing seemed awry except the coolant reservoir, which was empty.
The dealer showed me the damage today. They showed me a damaged valve, damaged head, and the cylinder sleeve that was cracked in 3 places. It was the cylinder closest to the front of the vehicle. Apparently the coolant flooded the cylinder and cracked the sleeve.
Maybe my anger is misplaced, but I feel like this “injector pump timing fault” problem caused this engine damage. I remember the very first time this happened back in 2006 and I thought the engine was going to be damaged because it was running so rough.
Where the blame falls:
Is it possible the injector pump fault caused this?
If not, what could have caused this? Head Gasket?
Is it possible the dealer messed it up when the replaced the water pump and timing belt? (4000 miles ago?)
Any chance I can get Jeep to cover all/part of repair since this injector pump problem has occurred since new?
Is this my fault for being stupid and trying to restart the engine?
Just my bad luck?
I purchased three new fuel separator filter units on EBay from Hall Chrysler Jeep in MIchigan. They're sitting on my shelf and I intend to use them when it needs changing. I figure by avoiding the migration to a new filter housing (the two I've had have worked fine and my 2005 CRD is running flawlessly) I can use the "old style" filters.
Three filters for $100. Ready, begin: http://tiny.cc/PMsUP
If so, then the belt could be dried out. I replace the serpentine belt every 35K miles whether it needs it or not.
No issues on that end.