Got a Quick, Technical Question?

bolivar · February 2006

Yep, some have the access thru the trunk.

But I didn't want to give you false hope if you car didn't have this.

boating · February 2006

I have a 1999 Maxima with 85,000 miles, original owner. It will need a coolant change at 90,000.

Recently, it was at a local Nissan dealer for an O2 problem. Service advisor called and stated it needed coolant hoses changed. He admitted that they were not leaking but looked soft and original. I passed for now. I checked them and they appeared to be fine.

Question: Should I change both hoses at 90k with coolant flush or can they go longer??? (I have in past kept cars to 100k and have never changed hoses)

Thanks for any response.

qbrozen · February 2006

its a cheap insurance policy to go ahead and change them now when the coolant is out.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2006

I'd change them. The whole idea of preventative maintenance is to change something before it fails, not after, based on a predictable life span. Any hose that's gone 90K has done its job.

280ce81 · February 2006

Thank you! Unfortunately, I don't have a tach. I suppose if I'm that concerned I could get a cheap Sun tach from Autozone. It just feels like its really revving to me. Maybe it's the replacement engine. I just don't push it past about 70, and if I regularly drive at that speed, mileage is about 16-17 mpg. I know the car is heavy, but you know how much gas is these days. I guess you gotta pay to play. thanx again, 280.

280ce81 · February 2006

Maz...
Thanks beaucoup for the site! That one's locked in...right Mr. Sulu? yes captain.
My buddy with one of those hot new Miatas would like to show you (and everyone else) his car. But, he has let me drive it (solo even) and that's by far the quickest four cylinder I've ever had the pleasure of driving. I've been a fan of Hondas for reliability, but have known two folks with 626s that got way tons of reliable mileage out of them, so I'm considering one for next car. Also, very smooth ride for a small car. Thank for reply. 280

scott56 · February 2006

Turn key on, D4 and check engine come on and
go out. Engine starts. Sometime D4 flashes and
check engine stays on, engine just cranks but
will not start. If D4 is flashing and check engine
goes out the engine starts but the trans is in high
gear not 1st gear. This problem is intermittent.
Have already changed TCU with a known good unit.
Any ideas what problem could be?

trainman · February 2006

I recently purchased a home aircompresser to check tire preasure in my driveway, I set it to 32lbs and when it reached this amount it shutoff like it was suppose to do, I decided to check the preasure with my digital gauge and it only showed 28lbs in each tire. Whatshould I go by?

trainman · February 2006

I HAVE A 1986 FORD TAURUS V6 178,000 MILE. LITTLE POWER ON STARTUP UNTILL WARM RUNS FINE EXCEPT WHEN CAR PULLS A HILL IT MISSES AND POPS UNDER HOOD. I HAD TUNE UP WIRES PLUGS DIST CAP AND ROTOR,TECH NOTISED EGR WASN'T CONNECTED WHICH THEY CONEECTED, NO CHANGE. TTOK CARE TO FORD DEALERSHIP THEY TOLD ME I HAD A VALVE STICKING, BAD MAAP SENSOR AND DISTRIBUTER WAS LOOSE ON TOP OF MOTER. I TOOK THE CAR TO A FRIEND WHO WORKS ON CARS, TOLD HIM WHAT FORD SAID, HE OPENED THE HOOD, GRABED DIST AND TRIED TO GET IT TO MOVE AND COULDN'T MOVE IT. ANY SUGESTIONS WHAT MIGHT BE CAUSING THIS?

bolivar · February 2006

A Honda flashes the gear indicator when the computer has a transmission problem error code. (See your manual. It should tell you this.)

I would take the car to Honda. Or a good transmission shop.

bolivar · February 2006

I would think the gauge would be more accurate.

Drive it to a station and check with your gauge. Check with the stations gauge.

Repeat at another station.

Repeat until you decide if your gauge is accurate.

user777 · February 2006

right. you could do some googling and determine how to read the TCM fault code... i believe with a tiny jumper. your problem could be a speed sensor, solenoid, or a downright TCM failure.

one site that reconditions ECMs and TCMs suggests checking your ignition (i think plugs, points, wires) first.

if a TCM failure, the google hits that i looked at indicated a few people had success getting a used TCM from a salvage yard for perhaps $50 or so.

referbs look more expensive.

start with a good google session. this might be a DIY project. not sure.

ryder06 · February 2006

I own a 98 Jeep Grand Cherokee and I had a very rponounced wobble when I applied the brakes. I changed the front rotors and pads and nothing changed the wobble feels exactly like warped rotors but my rotors are brand new. They wobbled the first time I applied the brakes. I also checked the rear brakes by stopping using the parking brake. No wobble. Do you have any ideas what could be causing it? Maybe an abs error? I bought good brake pads and rotors so I doubt they would crap out on the first test run. Anyways, any help you could throw my way would be greatly appreciated.
-Ryan

Mr_Shiftright · February 2006

I'd check the new rotors with a run out gauge...new rotors right out of the box can be bad, I've seen it....and just last week in fact....never assume anything is my motto, if you want a good diagnosis of a problem.

If they check out okay, you've maybe got a stuck caliper or something loose in the front end.

imidazol97 · February 2006

I checked with a tire store that had adults working there and they told me that they occasionally buy a new gauge and keep the three that measure the closest. They toss the oldest one or the one that's off--they use pencil gauges that aren't adjustable.

I bought a metal housing gauge at KMart a few years back. Maybe 8 dollars. It's adjustable by turning a screw. I adjust it to match the others if I think it has changed or been dropped. I bought one that was plastic and the gears inside seems to bind-they were nylon. Pitched it.

280ce81 · February 2006

Thank you for response. I have no reason to believe that anything is wrong with trans and you are probably correct about it starting out in first. I will get a tach, and then will have my answer. 280

280ce81 · February 2006

Trainman,
Make sure the coil wire was replaced. I had a car that ran fine until under load and then sputtered badly. Drove me nuts figuring it out and it was just the coil wire. It fires 4-6-8 times per rev, so they do burn out. 280

280ce81 · February 2006

Ryder 06, jack front end and check for any wheelplay. You will be able to tell if bearings have play by forcefully wiggling tires. After that, it could be tie-rod ends, idler arm, or steering box. 280

280ce81 · February 2006

twostirish222, I'm surprised you didn't get an earlier resonse to your query. This site rocks and I hope you are still checking back. Your problem definitely sounds like the starter solenoid is going out. One day (soon) it won't start at all. First make sure both ends of negative battery cable are secure! On some cars the solenoid is attached to starter and on some it is readily visible in engine compartment. Trace your positive battery cable towards starter. If you find a little box that it is attached to prior to starter, that is the solenoid. These are usually cheap, and I would try that first. It seems unusual for a 2003 car to already have this problem, but a loose connection at the battery, starter, or ground lead could cause arcing that would burn it out. Check all of these too. 280

tsb1 · February 2006

Yesterday I boutght a 2000 grand cher. ltd,4x4
today when i put the key into the ignition it wont turn from the lock postion to any other position
After 5 minutes i got it to turn
after i took the key out i reinserted and same problem
so today i am leaving the key inserted but in the OFF position
also i only have 1 key - if i need to get a new key cylinder do i get new keys also?
Tim fro RI

crankshaft · February 2006

Do not under estimate the power of a clogged fuel filter.

qbrozen · February 2006

It could be the key itself. Do you have any other keys for the vehicle? If so, and they also have trouble, then it probably is the cylinder.

If it is, there are 2 things that can be done. You can get a new cylinder and have it matched to your current keys. OR, like you said, get a new cylinder and new keys ... however, then those keys will no longer work in your doors.

iwantws6 · February 2006

My rear defroster takes a VERY long time to clear the window. I discovered that one of the 2 wired metal contacts is no longer touching the glass. (There's one on the left and one on the right of the window) If I solder it would the defroster work properly again? and most importantly, Is there anything I could damage by soldering it? If I can't solder, do you have any other suggestions?

The car is a '96 Sebring convertible by the way

burdawg · February 2006

Conductive epoxy? If one of the contacts is off then it's not working at all.

faste · February 2006

when starting our jgc 4.0 6cyl. in the morning there is a ticking in engine like a valve tap. engine has 50,000mi and i have used mobil one syn. since new. oil is changed every 3500mi. this vehicle is babied and driven 99% of the time by my wife. this ticking continues for about 5min every time it is started cold. need help from all out there to diagnose problem.we have extended warranty and i will be putting jeep in shop soon.

rbillieux · February 2006

I posted this in electric-crazy forum then it appears i responded to myself---one :confuse: door stopped working no sign of life repair engine light came on ???Bob

qbrozen · February 2006

have you actually checked to make sure the oil level is still maxxed out?

Mr_Shiftright · February 2006

I can't recall if your car has adjustable valves or not, but if so, it could be time to do that; if not, you could have a weak hydraulic lifter or it could be normal wear and tear. Rather depends on how loud and how long whether you have to worry or not.

1racefan · February 2006

I have a squeeky rear suspension, and am hypothesizing that the squeek is coming from one of the rubber bushings (it sounds like a rubber noise, and makes the most noise when it is cold outside).

My questio is - What would be the best lubricant to use for rubber bushings? I am looking for something that is in a spray form (this way I can shoot into the areas around the bushings as best possible - I am not smart enough to disassemble the suspension), and obviously need something that won't degrade the rubber over time.

faste · February 2006

oil level is fine. i changed the oil when it started about a month ago and it did it the next morning after the change. i will be putting it in the shop soon to have valves or lifters checked.this will be the 12th time in shop for engine problems. have court date with chrysler april 07 on lemon law. filed in feb 05 and won arbitration on oct 05. they appealed and now goes to court. thanks for the responses on the engine problem.

alcan · February 2006

If the noise started right after changing the oil filter, it's possible that the current filter's anti-drainback valve is leaking. Try replacing the filter.

crankshaft · February 2006

use a silicon spray lubricant.

crankshaft · February 2006

hopefully its not a fram.

burdawg · February 2006

That sounds pretty normal. My Wrangler 4.0 does it and has for some time. Like you it goes away when the engine warms up and the parts reach normal operating clearances. The lifters are hydraulic and don't normally need adjustment. If it's real bad then perhaps there's a worn rocker arm or pushrod, but I doubt it since it probably wouldn't go away when it warms up.

faste · February 2006

not a fram. filter is the pure one. i think it is called micro filter. it's one of the better ones. i really think the problem is the lifters or valves because of all the engine problems we have had with this vehicle.i think chrysler is hoping we will get rid of it before the court date.this is our third jgc and last. we have thought about trading in but are holding off.

mazda626atx · February 2006

Hi Guys,
Does anyone think that using this injector cleaner is adviseable in a car that is running well.

Alcan, Mr Shifright jump right in. I asked my Mazda mechanic in Greece and he thought that you could dislodge or cause a problem in a car thats running fine for 55K miles. If its not broke dont fix it, or can performance be restored in your opinions?

This comment is from the other forum by P100.
If Mohammed wont come to the mountain, then thevmountain must come to Mohammed. LOL
Thx Guys
Peter

imidazol97 · February 2006

I've used Techron several times through the years. It's a concentrated version of the additives in Chevron's gasolines. If you used only their gasolines through the years, then you probably don't need it. A few years ago their additives were considered the best.

I would suggest at 55 using it following the directions on the bottle and adding only the gallons of premium brand name gas 12-20 for which the bottle was sized. See if you think it makes a difference in the driving. Car usually runs better after a few miles. I use mostly Mobile, Shell, and occasional other name brand fuel mixed in with some Kroger and another Midwest store chain. I rarely hit discount stations where junk fuels allegedly can be mixed in.

The additives aren't going to dislodge anything that using good additive gasolines wouldn't dislodge. I can't believe there would be anything present to be dislodged other than some goops in the gas tank that came in with the fuels. The gas filters catch the solids and gels with any size to them.

Try the injector cleaner or fuel system cleaner version one time.

jmfreshour · February 2006

Does anyone know how leg room is measured by the manufacturers? For example, in the Sienna, leg room is approximately 42/40/40 for front/second/third rows. Do they slide the front seat all the way forward and the second row all the way back to obtain the highest number? And similarly, slide the second row all the way forward, and the third row all the way back? Or are the measurements taken while all seats are in the furthermost back position? Thanks.

alcan · February 2006

Caught it in the 626 forum.

jneal · February 2006

You can bet they will measure in the most advantageous way....whether or not it will be compatible with real-world seating...

sgrd0q · February 2006

Need advice. I am driving to Canada tomorrow, and the temperatures at the mountain where I an going are forecast to be record low. The forecast is -25 F!

So my question is - is this drivable, and am I going to damage my car? Is there a problem with starting the car at -25F?

My windshield wiper fluid will probably freeze (good to -20 F). But how about the oil? Antifreeze? Any other fluids?

Thanks for any advice or insight!

mazda626atx · February 2006

THERE ARE CONCENTRATED ADDITIVES AND LOWER TEMPERATURE WINSHIELD WASHER FLUIDS. ADD THE CONCENTRATE TO EXISTING MIXTURE AND YOU WILL PROLLY HAVE BEST PROTECTION.MERCEDES SELLS A CONCENTRATE. OIL SHOULD BE OK UNLESS YOU HAVE A SUMMER WEIGHT WHICH IS NOT THAT LIKELY. UNLESS YOU LIVE IN FLORIDA OR SOMEWHERE WARM , YOUR OIL SHOULD BE VARIABLE ENOUGH TO TAKE TEMPERATURE. DRIVE VERY SLOWLY TILL CAR WARMS UP AND MAKE SURE YOUR BATTERY IS FULLY CHARGED.TURN OFF ALL ACCESSORYS BEFORE SHUTTING DOWN CAR. BATTERYS LOSE 40% OF STRENGTH OR MORE IN LOW TEMPERATURES.
DRIVE SAFELY
PGP

sgrd0q · February 2006

Thanks for replying. I got new battery - the old one died only a few months ago. My oil is Mobil1 5W-30.

My coolant was changed by the Nissan dealer about a year ago. I hope they didnt try to save on the coolant by adding more than the recommended 50% water.

I am going to have a look and see if I can find any windshield wiper fluid additive. Thanks for the tip.

trainman · February 2006

I have a 2005 Toyota Camry with 3.0 v6 engine, owners manual says recomend 91 or higher octane for better performance. anyone know what they mean, engine is rated at 210 hp. does this mean regular 87 octane gas I'll only have 190 hp. also will any harm be done to engine using 87 octane? Thanks for any responce

280ce81 · February 2006

trainman,
Several items to note: You should probably go with mfgs' recommendation. That being said, I know that gas is expensive. Most cars will run fine on lower octane fuels, but if you hear a clattering sound from engine under load (like accelerating or climbing a hill) this is pre-detonation and is extremely bad for engine (pistons, rods, etc.) This condition can sometimes be remedied by retarding ignition timing. The combination of lower octane and retarded timing will definitely lower power by as much as 15%, but mileage shouldn't suffer and transportation costs will be much lower over the long run. 280
ps keep an eye on temperature gauge. If engine is running hotter on lower octane, this is bad.

sandman46 · February 2006

How many coils in a '03 Nissan Sentra. The car has been idleing very rough and the service engine light came back on again. The car is at the dealer for the 2nd time in a little over 2 weeks. The 1st time they said there was water in #4 spark plug so they cleaned it out. Problem came back within 2 weeks. I really need some quick info here. The car is out of warranty in May and I need to know how many coils there are so I can push Nissan to swap them all out.
Thanks in advance to anyone who can help a long time Edmunds poster.

The Sandman :confuse:

burdawg · February 2006

"The 1st time they said there was water in #4 spark plug so they cleaned it out"
Did they mean #4 cylinder?

sandman46 · February 2006

The Sandman

jrolf · February 2006

neither my brake lights or hazards work (the middle brake light does work) but my turn signals work(front and back). my parking lights even work. the fuses are all fine. what could my problem be??

alcan · February 2006

Usually the turn signal switch. If there's power into the signal switch on the white wire when the brake pedal is depresssed but no power out on the yellow and dark green wires, the signal switch is pooched.

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