By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Important: Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar to compress the caliper piston into the caliper. Any damage to the piston boot could cause corrosive elements to enter the piston sealing area and lead to the piston seizing in the caliper bore. Important: Do not exceed more than 1 mm of piston travel. Damage to the internal adjusting mechanism may result.
Using a large C clamp compress the caliper piston into the caliper bore to gain enough clearance to allow the caliper to pivot off the caliper bracket.
Note: Vehicles with ABS, it is avisable to open the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to push out of the caliper instead of pushing back up into the master cylinder. This prevents contamination from harming the ABS module.
Compress the piston until resistance is felt, but no more than 1 mm of piston travel.
If the caliper is to be removed for repair, remove the bolt attaching the inlet fitting to the caliper, and plug the opening in the caliper and/or pipe to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
Remove the park brake cable from the caliper.
Remove the caliper pin bolt.
Slide the caliper off the pin to remove.
Install...
Install the caliper over the brake pads into the caliper anchor bracket. Notice: Refer to fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the caliper pin bolts. Tighten the caliper pin bolts to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake hose inlet fitting to the caliper. Tighten the brake hose fitting bolt to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).
Install the park brake cable to the caliper.
Bleed the brake system.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
And if he's right, a pressure regulator could create as many problems as it could solve I think.
Maybe you have a leaking injector or a faulty cold start sensor or ????
PS: Hope all of you can join me and alcan and Opatience tonight at the "Fix-It" chat!!
Check it out---
Fix-It Chat Tonight 6 PM (PST)/ 9 PM (EST)
Understand your points well. The van doesn't show engine problem warnings and the mechanic is telling me the readings from the computer are unremarkable save for being unreliable. There is a possibility of a bad connection here and is being investigated.
In the interim a shotgun approach is being taken by the mechanic - this is going to be expensive!
Will post the resolution when found.
Thanks,
John - a.k.a. Druid
Take off the caliper, back off the piston again, and try it again?
i am going to outline everything that has happened and all i have tried with no success.
i replaced both rear rotors and brake pads on 2000 bonneville se.left side(drivers side)works just fine. right side caliper would not let rotor turn. i replaced the caliper and still rotor wouldnt turn. bleed line and no air in system. reseated caliper piston numerous times and bled line everytime but rotor wont turn unless you put a pry bar on it.much to tight!! i even loosened emergeancy brak cable to right side thinking it might be to tight. still same problem.i have abs with low trac so could there be a sensor acting up?this is the first time i have done rear disk brakes but i have done a lot of front and rear drum brakes and have never had this problem. i even replaced new caliper with a new one and still the same. any suggestions to help me fix this problem would be appreciated. thanks again
A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Has anyone encountered this or have recommendations on what to change?
cheapest and easiest way to flush and refill a PS system is to get a turkey-fryer-kit basting needle, and tape over the side holes in the needle. use a fine saw or a tubing cutter that adjusts down to zero, cut the end off the needle of the baster. suck out all the PS fluid in the resivoir with it, and squirt it in a gallon jug for the recycling place. full the resivoir with fresh fluid of the correct type.
be danged sure you get that right, ford switched from type F fluid to Dexron in the late 90s, for instance, and using the wrong stuff can wreck a steering rack. get the information from a solid source, like the factory manual, owners manual for THAT car with THAT system, or the dealership.
now start the car, turn the wheels gently lock-to-lock three times over several minutes, center the steering wheel, and shut down. if you bang it against the stops, you damage the rack. the rack is a couple thousand dollars. you don't want to damage the rack.
repeat until you've gone through at least two quarts of PS fluid, and the stuff in the resivoir when you shut down is clean as new. do it once more, and cap everything up. take the old slop to the recycler, and rinse your modified baster needle/syringe with alcohol and let it dry for future use.
You never know, power steering flavored turkey might not be that bad. Thanks for your reply!!!
It makes the same type of noise when I put the car into drive.
Any Ideas?
very high (~2000) RPM when in parking or in neutral. When I turn AC on RPM goes down to 1,300-1,500. Turning AC off - jumps back to 2,000. Putting in Drive makes RPM go down to 1,000.
Couple days ago the Check Engine light came up. Went to AutoZone and used their OBD-2 code reader to find out that computer identified P0325 code (Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction). I cleared this code and Check Engne light is still *off* after ~50mi.
I am wondering if a knock sensor malfunction could result in high idle RPM? Did anyone have similar problem? Any suggestions?
One easy trick---if you have some component you do not wish to get wet, wrap it in aluminum foil---the foil conforms very tightly to the object and will keep most of the water out if you are hand-washing the engine.
You can put a disposable tarp under the car to catch just about all the grunge.
Use a "parts brush" which is a rounded, hard bristle brush that you can poke into places.
After you are done, you can coat rubber and plastic surfaces with some Armor-All wipes or "black chrome"---whatever works best on each surface, and you can even touch up black plastic with some paint called "trim paint".
Thanks for any help that can be given
since you replaced everything brake related, have you checked out the wheel bearing? are you sure its the brake grabbing it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
When I slow down the engine RPM's don't slow down, and the A/C shuts off. When the engine finally slows down, the car tries to stall. The A/C shutoff and RPM situation also occurs when at freeway speeds.
I have taken it in for a diagnostic and nothing came up. The sparkplugs were recently changed, and I have no idea what it could be. The Mechanics don't think it has anything to do with the A/C or Engine as a whole.
The problem is intermittent.
Any Ideas?
and how do the RPMs drop at highway speed? Again, this would slow your car down unless the engine is becoming disconnected from the rest of the drivetrain.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
PART of the description makes sense...when the AC cuts off (for whatever unknown as yet reason, perhaps low refrigerant or over-cooling), then the AC's idle compensator will shut off and the idle will drop. If the idle is being messed with by some other problem, and is too low, then shutting the AC off might bring the idle to stalling speed.
I don't agree with your mechanic. I think you have BOTH an AC problem and an engine idle problem---two separate problems inter-acting in odd ways.
But without codes, and without getting the story straight so it makes better sense, I dunno what to say here....
-Throtle Position Sensor
-Idle Air Control Valve
I found the Throtle Position Sensor on the internet just fine, but could not really find the Idle Air control Valve to my liking.
I found that there is a Fuel Injection Idle Air Control Valve and a listing for Idle Air Control Valve. Are they the same thing?
They said it was probably two separate problems with the A/C and the Idle. With respect to the idle they said it was related to a sticking exhaust valve. They are currently putting in a fuel injection cleaning service in hopes that the problem is that simple.
With respect to the A/C issue an actual code came up this time. It was an Intermittent fault code P1460 - Malfunction Wide open throttle A/C cutoff circuit.
They are reluctant to work on that and have advised me to go to the Ford dealership for further analysis. I am nervous about the cost of this type of troubleshooting.
Any ideas on these sorts of past problems?
The fault code makes sense however. Question is, that's just a code so they really haven't diagnosed anything.
I'm not sure why these shops are treating a Ford Escort like it was a V-12 Ferrari where wise men fear to tread. It can't be THAT hard!
Any help is appreciated.
"This is taken from TSB AX007-99, dated May 14, 1999. For all models with DIO (dealer) or PIO (port of entry, distributor) equipped Toyota Keyless Entry System.
The ECU appears to be just to the left of the radio.
To add a remote to the system.
1) Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to "on."
2) Press and hold the ECU's programming switch for 2 seconds. etc....
For the life of me, I can't seem to locate the ECU anywhere in my 98 Sienna. I still don't understand what the big secret these instructions are! I also find it hard to believe that Toyota is doing this to it's customers. I purchased a remote for my 95 Maxima several years back and the dealer volunteered to program it for me at no charge. It took him less than 2 minutes to perform the required steps. If anyone can help with the correct instructions for the 98 Sienna and tell me the location of the ECU, I will be a happy camper.
Thanks,
Jerry
Try this to program all your remotes:
1. Start with the following conditions:
a) Key is out of the ignition
b) Driver door is open (all other doors are closed)
c) Driver door is unlocked (other door locks don't matter)
2. Insert the key into the ignition (don't turn it) and pull it out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a)Using the power lock/unlock switch on the driver's door (with the driver's door still open and unlocked), perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. A lock/unlock cycle consists of pressing the power lock switch, followed by pressing the power unlock switch on the driver's door panel. Use an even pace and try to go relatively fast.
b)Close, then open, the driver's door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a) Using the power lock/unlock switch on the driver's door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock, as you did previously.
b) Turn the ignition to "ON" (as far as you can go without cranking your engine), then back to "OFF". paul6
c) Again, turn the ignition to "ON" (as far as you can go without cranking your engine), then back to "OFF".
d) Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (lock then unlock) automatically, indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a) Press the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter (the remote) simultaneously for 1 second.
b) Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, hit the lock button by itself and hold it for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle (lock then unlock) once indicating successful programming. If the door locks don't cycle, or cycle twice, repeat steps 6a and 6b, as this means the remote has not been accepted.
c) Repeat steps 6a and 6b for each transmitter that will operate the vehicle, including any old transmitters.
7. Close driver's door.
8. Treat yourself to something nice with what you've saved.
You have to repeat 6 a) and b) for EVERY remote, both your old ones that were already working, and your new one(s). And you have to do it before closing the driver's door in step 7.
Don't test your remotes until you've completed step 7. Then go ahead and test all of them. If you press one of the buttons on the remotes before having completed everything and closing the driver's door, the programming will not be successful.
These instructions are for a 2000 SE model and may apply for your year....
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Unfortunately, it doesn't help me answer your problem. I'm on board with shifty so far on this one. what the heck is so complicated on this car? I think it might be more an issue of mechanics usually finding Escort owners unwilling to spend money on their car. But that's just a theory on my part.
Anyway, I don't think the idle control valve makes sense because you are having a problem at highway speed. I'd be more inclined to go with the throttle position sensor because this could possibly explain a few of the several symptoms you are seeing, as well as that open throttle fault. Then again, would that also give the idle problem? Maybe Ford is right. Maybe its BOTH parts. Yeah, like shifty said, it sounds like guessing, but, frankly, sometimes auto mechanics involves guessing (or i just suck at it, take your pick).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The A/C problem like i said was the wide open throttle malfunction. It is basically shutting off the A/C because it thinks I am trying to pass someone which is causing the engine to over-rev. They don't know why it is doing that. Firestone said that it could be one of three parts to fix it: the wire harness, the sensor that sends info from the harness, or the car computer itself. They said they don't have the equipment or techs to fix it so they suggest I take it to ford.
Ford IACs are known for failure as well - replacing teh IAC and the WOT sensor should cure the problem, but have the tech check the wiring harness at the same time.
If you need an ECM, get a reman privately, don't use the dealer necessarily - you can easily save $200-300, and the Ford versions are remanufactured, too...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also, at these extremely high miles, you really have to look at a clogged radiator or a bad head gasket as other causes of rapid overheat.