What is the proper name of an engine where the valves will be hit by the pistons if the timing belt breaks? Also the name of the kind of engine where the valves will not be hit by the pistons if the belt breaks. Thanks in advance.
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Raise the vehicle and suitably support. Refer to Vehicle Lifting. Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Important: Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar to compress the caliper piston into the caliper. Any damage to the piston boot could cause corrosive elements to enter the piston sealing area and lead to the piston seizing in the caliper bore. Important: Do not exceed more than 1 mm of piston travel. Damage to the internal adjusting mechanism may result. Using a large C clamp compress the caliper piston into the caliper bore to gain enough clearance to allow the caliper to pivot off the caliper bracket.
Note:Vehicles with ABS, it is avisable to open the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to push out of the caliper instead of pushing back up into the master cylinder. This prevents contamination from harming the ABS module.
Compress the piston until resistance is felt, but no more than 1 mm of piston travel. If the caliper is to be removed for repair, remove the bolt attaching the inlet fitting to the caliper, and plug the opening in the caliper and/or pipe to prevent fluid loss and contamination. Remove the park brake cable from the caliper. Remove the caliper pin bolt. Slide the caliper off the pin to remove. Install... Install the caliper over the brake pads into the caliper anchor bracket. Notice: Refer to fastener Notice in Service Precautions. Install the caliper pin bolts. Tighten the caliper pin bolts to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.). Install the brake hose inlet fitting to the caliper. Tighten the brake hose fitting bolt to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.). Install the park brake cable to the caliper. Bleed the brake system. Install the tire and wheel assembly. Lower the vehicle.
Can someone tell me how I can get hold of a wiring harness for my 95 Toyota Previa (Super Charged model), which burned along with the neutral switch? Or can it be rewired? I would appreciate your comments ASAP.
Blazer won't pass emissions. Had diagnostics run at dealer no problem. Dealer service writer said there was fuel in the oil but that it wasn't washing. Could an aftermarket fuel regulator be cheap fix? CPI units expensive. Problem getting worse. Engine is a 4.3 W.
Understand your points well. The van doesn't show engine problem warnings and the mechanic is telling me the readings from the computer are unremarkable save for being unreliable. There is a possibility of a bad connection here and is being investigated.
In the interim a shotgun approach is being taken by the mechanic - this is going to be expensive!
thanks for the advice. got caliper off and replaced without to much trouble. but now i have another problem. after replacing caliper and bleeding brakes my rotor is very tight. isn't the caliper piston supposed to back off a hair when brake is released? i took off a few hours today and got another caliper thinking i may have a faulty one but still the same thing. have tried everything i can think of but i am stumped. any ideas? thanks in advance.
with the wheel off, tighten down all the lug nuts on the rotor - it could be that without equal pressure, the rotor is sitting cockeyed and is rubbing.
thanks for the reply. i tried that and even replaced tire and drove for a bit but caliper piston kept pressure on brake pad and rotor got hot. could a rear sensor be faulty?
I have a question regarding Power Steering Fluid. I have never changed the power steering fluid in any car I have ever owned. It seems like as of about a year ago, the quick lube places in my area are now trying to sell power steering fluid flush jobs when I go in for an oil change. Both of my current cars are new, and shouldn't need this service anytime soon, but what is the realistic life of power fluid steering these days?
first of all. thanks to everyone who has replied. i am going to outline everything that has happened and all i have tried with no success. i replaced both rear rotors and brake pads on 2000 bonneville se.left side(drivers side)works just fine. right side caliper would not let rotor turn. i replaced the caliper and still rotor wouldnt turn. bleed line and no air in system. reseated caliper piston numerous times and bled line everytime but rotor wont turn unless you put a pry bar on it.much to tight!! i even loosened emergeancy brak cable to right side thinking it might be to tight. still same problem.i have abs with low trac so could there be a sensor acting up?this is the first time i have done rear disk brakes but i have done a lot of front and rear drum brakes and have never had this problem. i even replaced new caliper with a new one and still the same. any suggestions to help me fix this problem would be appreciated. thanks again
it's a synthetic in most cases (certain cars of the german persusasion excepted,) and it should last forever IF clean and dry. that means if you can drip some on a white shop rag and it doesn't look as bright and colorful as a drop from a new bottle, you need to replace it.
cheapest and easiest way to flush and refill a PS system is to get a turkey-fryer-kit basting needle, and tape over the side holes in the needle. use a fine saw or a tubing cutter that adjusts down to zero, cut the end off the needle of the baster. suck out all the PS fluid in the resivoir with it, and squirt it in a gallon jug for the recycling place. full the resivoir with fresh fluid of the correct type.
be danged sure you get that right, ford switched from type F fluid to Dexron in the late 90s, for instance, and using the wrong stuff can wreck a steering rack. get the information from a solid source, like the factory manual, owners manual for THAT car with THAT system, or the dealership.
now start the car, turn the wheels gently lock-to-lock three times over several minutes, center the steering wheel, and shut down. if you bang it against the stops, you damage the rack. the rack is a couple thousand dollars. you don't want to damage the rack.
repeat until you've gone through at least two quarts of PS fluid, and the stuff in the resivoir when you shut down is clean as new. do it once more, and cap everything up. take the old slop to the recycler, and rinse your modified baster needle/syringe with alcohol and let it dry for future use.
I have a 2004 Toyota Sienna, and I would love to be able to change the wiring so that the power windows and accessories would function with the key turned off. Can this be done reasonably simply?
My 1999 Nissan Quest SE (88K miles) start having a problem recently: very high (~2000) RPM when in parking or in neutral. When I turn AC on RPM goes down to 1,300-1,500. Turning AC off - jumps back to 2,000. Putting in Drive makes RPM go down to 1,000.
Couple days ago the Check Engine light came up. Went to AutoZone and used their OBD-2 code reader to find out that computer identified P0325 code (Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction). I cleared this code and Check Engne light is still *off* after ~50mi. I am wondering if a knock sensor malfunction could result in high idle RPM? Did anyone have similar problem? Any suggestions?
What is everyone's opinion in regards to steam cleaning engines? There is a detail shop down the road from me that steam cleans engines, and they do pretty good work. I was thinking of having my wife's car done, but wondered if this is a fairly safe process (assuming electrical components under the hood are covered up), or if it is something that leads to other problems and should be avoided.
I wouldn't risk it. There are less violent ways to clean an engine. You can do a pretty good job with a stiff brush, rubber gloves and Simple Green in warm water.
Thanks for the reply. I was looking at Simple Green's website, and they have "Automotive Degreasing Wipes". I will probably get the brush, gloves, Simple Green, and Simple Green Wipes, and just plan on spending quite a bit of time cleaning under the hood by hand.
Yeah, it's tedious but in a sense quite rewarding when you are done.
One easy trick---if you have some component you do not wish to get wet, wrap it in aluminum foil---the foil conforms very tightly to the object and will keep most of the water out if you are hand-washing the engine.
You can put a disposable tarp under the car to catch just about all the grunge.
Use a "parts brush" which is a rounded, hard bristle brush that you can poke into places.
After you are done, you can coat rubber and plastic surfaces with some Armor-All wipes or "black chrome"---whatever works best on each surface, and you can even touch up black plastic with some paint called "trim paint".
Maybe a simple thing, but I'm pretty much a novice at auto repair. I can't stomach taking a '93 Villager to a mechanic, though, for simple brake pad replacement. The problem is that the bolts holding the caliper have a rubber sheathing around them that extends about a quarter-inch above the head. How do I get the blasted bolts off with that sheathing around them? Do I need a special tool, and if so, what do I need?
I have a 1999 Ford Escort and this problem has gotten progressively worse.
When I slow down the engine RPM's don't slow down, and the A/C shuts off. When the engine finally slows down, the car tries to stall. The A/C shutoff and RPM situation also occurs when at freeway speeds.
I have taken it in for a diagnostic and nothing came up. The sparkplugs were recently changed, and I have no idea what it could be. The Mechanics don't think it has anything to do with the A/C or Engine as a whole.
I'm not following you. How are you slowing down but the engine is not? The only way this could happen is if it becomes disconnected at the transmission (i'm assuming you have an automatic?). Either that or you are having to really burn up your brakes as you use them to slow down the car, but the car is still trying to keep its speed.
and how do the RPMs drop at highway speed? Again, this would slow your car down unless the engine is becoming disconnected from the rest of the drivetrain.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
It is a manual and what is happening is that when I go to stop the engine sounds like it is over-revved for lack of a better word. When it finally "slows down" the idle changes and the car tries to kill itself. I think the A/C is shutting off in order to compensate so that it does not stall. The A/C also shuts off when I am going about 50-60 mph and engine makes the same sound.
You're right I'm afraid gbrozen, I can't quite figure out what he's saying either. I don't see how you could be going 50-60 mph and have the AC cut off AND the engine start to race as if it were over-revving. That doesn't seem possible. Now the engine will speed up a little bit because the AC shuts off and isn't dragging on the engine.
PART of the description makes sense...when the AC cuts off (for whatever unknown as yet reason, perhaps low refrigerant or over-cooling), then the AC's idle compensator will shut off and the idle will drop. If the idle is being messed with by some other problem, and is too low, then shutting the AC off might bring the idle to stalling speed.
I don't agree with your mechanic. I think you have BOTH an AC problem and an engine idle problem---two separate problems inter-acting in odd ways.
But without codes, and without getting the story straight so it makes better sense, I dunno what to say here....
So I have brought my car back from the mechanic and they said there were two potential items, but they still weren't sure that these could solve the problem.
-Throtle Position Sensor -Idle Air Control Valve
I found the Throtle Position Sensor on the internet just fine, but could not really find the Idle Air control Valve to my liking.
I found that there is a Fuel Injection Idle Air Control Valve and a listing for Idle Air Control Valve. Are they the same thing?
So there is more information on the car. I took the car to a different place (Firestone) and they ran a more thurough diagnostic on the car. They checked the compression, that wasn't an issue.
They said it was probably two separate problems with the A/C and the Idle. With respect to the idle they said it was related to a sticking exhaust valve. They are currently putting in a fuel injection cleaning service in hopes that the problem is that simple.
With respect to the A/C issue an actual code came up this time. It was an Intermittent fault code P1460 - Malfunction Wide open throttle A/C cutoff circuit.
They are reluctant to work on that and have advised me to go to the Ford dealership for further analysis. I am nervous about the cost of this type of troubleshooting.
Oh, I think their diagnosis is totally wrong on the sticking exhaust valve first of all. You lose an exhaust valve and you lose a cylinder---completely different symptoms.
The fault code makes sense however. Question is, that's just a code so they really haven't diagnosed anything.
I'm not sure why these shops are treating a Ford Escort like it was a V-12 Ferrari where wise men fear to tread. It can't be THAT hard!
My 1987 Civic recently started running hot after just a few miles. Mileage is around 250K. My main question is regarding the two fans. The one inside the engine bay will run if the AC is on, and is also triggered by the thermal switch mounted in the lower right corner of the radiator. I've bypassed this switch so the fan runs all the time, but I still run hot. I believe, but not sure, that the radiator cooling fan timer also drives this fan. After a short trip, I no longer hear any fan noise after I shut off the vehicle. I know there could be a number of failures here, sensors, relays, etc. Also, with the temp gauge at 50-75%, I can squeeze the top radiator hose and do NOT feel coolant moving when I release. So a water pump or thermostat could also be my problem. But what triggers the fan located on the front of the radiator? It can be seen if you look at the front of the car under the bumper just to right of center? I can't find a reference to this fan anywhere in my Haynes manual, nor can I find a fuse location. Any help is appreciated.
Hello.... Member Freebird wrote in another area of this site "This is taken from TSB AX007-99, dated May 14, 1999. For all models with DIO (dealer) or PIO (port of entry, distributor) equipped Toyota Keyless Entry System. The ECU appears to be just to the left of the radio. To add a remote to the system. 1) Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to "on." 2) Press and hold the ECU's programming switch for 2 seconds. etc....
For the life of me, I can't seem to locate the ECU anywhere in my 98 Sienna. I still don't understand what the big secret these instructions are! I also find it hard to believe that Toyota is doing this to it's customers. I purchased a remote for my 95 Maxima several years back and the dealer volunteered to program it for me at no charge. It took him less than 2 minutes to perform the required steps. If anyone can help with the correct instructions for the 98 Sienna and tell me the location of the ECU, I will be a happy camper.
1. Start with the following conditions: a) Key is out of the ignition b) Driver door is open (all other doors are closed) c) Driver door is unlocked (other door locks don't matter) 2. Insert the key into the ignition (don't turn it) and pull it out. 3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds: a)Using the power lock/unlock switch on the driver's door (with the driver's door still open and unlocked), perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. A lock/unlock cycle consists of pressing the power lock switch, followed by pressing the power unlock switch on the driver's door panel. Use an even pace and try to go relatively fast. b)Close, then open, the driver's door. 4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds: a) Using the power lock/unlock switch on the driver's door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock, as you did previously. b) Turn the ignition to "ON" (as far as you can go without cranking your engine), then back to "OFF". paul6 c) Again, turn the ignition to "ON" (as far as you can go without cranking your engine), then back to "OFF". d) Remove the key from the ignition. 5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (lock then unlock) automatically, indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point. 6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds: a) Press the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter (the remote) simultaneously for 1 second. b) Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, hit the lock button by itself and hold it for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle (lock then unlock) once indicating successful programming. If the door locks don't cycle, or cycle twice, repeat steps 6a and 6b, as this means the remote has not been accepted. c) Repeat steps 6a and 6b for each transmitter that will operate the vehicle, including any old transmitters. 7. Close driver's door. 8. Treat yourself to something nice with what you've saved.
You have to repeat 6 a) and b) for EVERY remote, both your old ones that were already working, and your new one(s). And you have to do it before closing the driver's door in step 7. Don't test your remotes until you've completed step 7. Then go ahead and test all of them. If you press one of the buttons on the remotes before having completed everything and closing the driver's door, the programming will not be successful.
These instructions are for a 2000 SE model and may apply for your year....
having a manual tranny helps me understand your explanation a bit better. Makes more sense now.
Unfortunately, it doesn't help me answer your problem. I'm on board with shifty so far on this one. what the heck is so complicated on this car? I think it might be more an issue of mechanics usually finding Escort owners unwilling to spend money on their car. But that's just a theory on my part.
Anyway, I don't think the idle control valve makes sense because you are having a problem at highway speed. I'd be more inclined to go with the throttle position sensor because this could possibly explain a few of the several symptoms you are seeing, as well as that open throttle fault. Then again, would that also give the idle problem? Maybe Ford is right. Maybe its BOTH parts. Yeah, like shifty said, it sounds like guessing, but, frankly, sometimes auto mechanics involves guessing (or i just suck at it, take your pick).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Basically what I was told was the idle and the A/C problem were two seperate things. There was a tech tip sent out by ford about the rough idle stating that is could be sticking exhaust valves but my compression was checked and everything was fine. Firestone just did a fuel injection service and it seems to have helped.
The A/C problem like i said was the wide open throttle malfunction. It is basically shutting off the A/C because it thinks I am trying to pass someone which is causing the engine to over-rev. They don't know why it is doing that. Firestone said that it could be one of three parts to fix it: the wire harness, the sensor that sends info from the harness, or the car computer itself. They said they don't have the equipment or techs to fix it so they suggest I take it to ford.
sensor could be the culprit - Fords have the WOT A/C bypass that allows more power for passing, and if the sensor is bad, the A/C system will go on and off all the time.
Ford IACs are known for failure as well - replacing teh IAC and the WOT sensor should cure the problem, but have the tech check the wiring harness at the same time.
If you need an ECM, get a reman privately, don't use the dealer necessarily - you can easily save $200-300, and the Ford versions are remanufactured, too...
I don't know your exact car, so more info could be helpful. is that other fan you speak of electric or is it belt driven? If electric, it is most likely triggered by the temp sensor (or it is supposed to be on all the time when the car is running). If you are overheating and it is never turning on, well, that's obviously your problem. But the thing that is bugging me about your post is that you say it is getting hot in a few miles of driving. What kind of driving are we talking about here? Is it overheating on the highway? Overheating while the car is moving is not usually indicative of a fan not turning on. That would normally be a coolant problem (i.e., pump or thermostat, like you said). If it starts overheating while sitting at a light and then drops to normal again while moving, then it is more likely an air issue (i.e., fans).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Comments
kirstie_h
Roving Host & Future Vehicles Host
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
Remove the tire and wheel assembly. Important: Do not use a screwdriver or pry bar to compress the caliper piston into the caliper. Any damage to the piston boot could cause corrosive elements to enter the piston sealing area and lead to the piston seizing in the caliper bore. Important: Do not exceed more than 1 mm of piston travel. Damage to the internal adjusting mechanism may result.
Using a large C clamp compress the caliper piston into the caliper bore to gain enough clearance to allow the caliper to pivot off the caliper bracket.
Note: Vehicles with ABS, it is avisable to open the bleeder screw to allow the fluid to push out of the caliper instead of pushing back up into the master cylinder. This prevents contamination from harming the ABS module.
Compress the piston until resistance is felt, but no more than 1 mm of piston travel.
If the caliper is to be removed for repair, remove the bolt attaching the inlet fitting to the caliper, and plug the opening in the caliper and/or pipe to prevent fluid loss and contamination.
Remove the park brake cable from the caliper.
Remove the caliper pin bolt.
Slide the caliper off the pin to remove.
Install...
Install the caliper over the brake pads into the caliper anchor bracket. Notice: Refer to fastener Notice in Service Precautions.
Install the caliper pin bolts. Tighten the caliper pin bolts to 85 Nm (63 ft. lbs.).
Install the brake hose inlet fitting to the caliper. Tighten the brake hose fitting bolt to 45 Nm (33 ft. lbs.).
Install the park brake cable to the caliper.
Bleed the brake system.
Install the tire and wheel assembly.
Lower the vehicle.
And if he's right, a pressure regulator could create as many problems as it could solve I think.
Maybe you have a leaking injector or a faulty cold start sensor or ????
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Understand your points well. The van doesn't show engine problem warnings and the mechanic is telling me the readings from the computer are unremarkable save for being unreliable. There is a possibility of a bad connection here and is being investigated.
In the interim a shotgun approach is being taken by the mechanic - this is going to be expensive!
Will post the resolution when found.
Thanks,
John - a.k.a. Druid
Take off the caliper, back off the piston again, and try it again?
i am going to outline everything that has happened and all i have tried with no success.
i replaced both rear rotors and brake pads on 2000 bonneville se.left side(drivers side)works just fine. right side caliper would not let rotor turn. i replaced the caliper and still rotor wouldnt turn. bleed line and no air in system. reseated caliper piston numerous times and bled line everytime but rotor wont turn unless you put a pry bar on it.much to tight!! i even loosened emergeancy brak cable to right side thinking it might be to tight. still same problem.i have abs with low trac so could there be a sensor acting up?this is the first time i have done rear disk brakes but i have done a lot of front and rear drum brakes and have never had this problem. i even replaced new caliper with a new one and still the same. any suggestions to help me fix this problem would be appreciated. thanks again
A/F Sensor Circuit Range/Performance (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
A/F Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1)
Has anyone encountered this or have recommendations on what to change?
cheapest and easiest way to flush and refill a PS system is to get a turkey-fryer-kit basting needle, and tape over the side holes in the needle. use a fine saw or a tubing cutter that adjusts down to zero, cut the end off the needle of the baster. suck out all the PS fluid in the resivoir with it, and squirt it in a gallon jug for the recycling place. full the resivoir with fresh fluid of the correct type.
be danged sure you get that right, ford switched from type F fluid to Dexron in the late 90s, for instance, and using the wrong stuff can wreck a steering rack. get the information from a solid source, like the factory manual, owners manual for THAT car with THAT system, or the dealership.
now start the car, turn the wheels gently lock-to-lock three times over several minutes, center the steering wheel, and shut down. if you bang it against the stops, you damage the rack. the rack is a couple thousand dollars. you don't want to damage the rack.
repeat until you've gone through at least two quarts of PS fluid, and the stuff in the resivoir when you shut down is clean as new. do it once more, and cap everything up. take the old slop to the recycler, and rinse your modified baster needle/syringe with alcohol and let it dry for future use.
You never know, power steering flavored turkey might not be that bad. Thanks for your reply!!!
It makes the same type of noise when I put the car into drive.
Any Ideas?
very high (~2000) RPM when in parking or in neutral. When I turn AC on RPM goes down to 1,300-1,500. Turning AC off - jumps back to 2,000. Putting in Drive makes RPM go down to 1,000.
Couple days ago the Check Engine light came up. Went to AutoZone and used their OBD-2 code reader to find out that computer identified P0325 code (Knock Sensor Circuit Malfunction). I cleared this code and Check Engne light is still *off* after ~50mi.
I am wondering if a knock sensor malfunction could result in high idle RPM? Did anyone have similar problem? Any suggestions?
One easy trick---if you have some component you do not wish to get wet, wrap it in aluminum foil---the foil conforms very tightly to the object and will keep most of the water out if you are hand-washing the engine.
You can put a disposable tarp under the car to catch just about all the grunge.
Use a "parts brush" which is a rounded, hard bristle brush that you can poke into places.
After you are done, you can coat rubber and plastic surfaces with some Armor-All wipes or "black chrome"---whatever works best on each surface, and you can even touch up black plastic with some paint called "trim paint".
Thanks for any help that can be given
since you replaced everything brake related, have you checked out the wheel bearing? are you sure its the brake grabbing it?
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
When I slow down the engine RPM's don't slow down, and the A/C shuts off. When the engine finally slows down, the car tries to stall. The A/C shutoff and RPM situation also occurs when at freeway speeds.
I have taken it in for a diagnostic and nothing came up. The sparkplugs were recently changed, and I have no idea what it could be. The Mechanics don't think it has anything to do with the A/C or Engine as a whole.
The problem is intermittent.
Any Ideas?
and how do the RPMs drop at highway speed? Again, this would slow your car down unless the engine is becoming disconnected from the rest of the drivetrain.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
PART of the description makes sense...when the AC cuts off (for whatever unknown as yet reason, perhaps low refrigerant or over-cooling), then the AC's idle compensator will shut off and the idle will drop. If the idle is being messed with by some other problem, and is too low, then shutting the AC off might bring the idle to stalling speed.
I don't agree with your mechanic. I think you have BOTH an AC problem and an engine idle problem---two separate problems inter-acting in odd ways.
But without codes, and without getting the story straight so it makes better sense, I dunno what to say here....
-Throtle Position Sensor
-Idle Air Control Valve
I found the Throtle Position Sensor on the internet just fine, but could not really find the Idle Air control Valve to my liking.
I found that there is a Fuel Injection Idle Air Control Valve and a listing for Idle Air Control Valve. Are they the same thing?
They said it was probably two separate problems with the A/C and the Idle. With respect to the idle they said it was related to a sticking exhaust valve. They are currently putting in a fuel injection cleaning service in hopes that the problem is that simple.
With respect to the A/C issue an actual code came up this time. It was an Intermittent fault code P1460 - Malfunction Wide open throttle A/C cutoff circuit.
They are reluctant to work on that and have advised me to go to the Ford dealership for further analysis. I am nervous about the cost of this type of troubleshooting.
Any ideas on these sorts of past problems?
The fault code makes sense however. Question is, that's just a code so they really haven't diagnosed anything.
I'm not sure why these shops are treating a Ford Escort like it was a V-12 Ferrari where wise men fear to tread. It can't be THAT hard!
Any help is appreciated.
"This is taken from TSB AX007-99, dated May 14, 1999. For all models with DIO (dealer) or PIO (port of entry, distributor) equipped Toyota Keyless Entry System.
The ECU appears to be just to the left of the radio.
To add a remote to the system.
1) Insert the key into the ignition switch, and turn it to "on."
2) Press and hold the ECU's programming switch for 2 seconds. etc....
For the life of me, I can't seem to locate the ECU anywhere in my 98 Sienna. I still don't understand what the big secret these instructions are! I also find it hard to believe that Toyota is doing this to it's customers. I purchased a remote for my 95 Maxima several years back and the dealer volunteered to program it for me at no charge. It took him less than 2 minutes to perform the required steps. If anyone can help with the correct instructions for the 98 Sienna and tell me the location of the ECU, I will be a happy camper.
Thanks,
Jerry
Try this to program all your remotes:
1. Start with the following conditions:
a) Key is out of the ignition
b) Driver door is open (all other doors are closed)
c) Driver door is unlocked (other door locks don't matter)
2. Insert the key into the ignition (don't turn it) and pull it out.
3. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a)Using the power lock/unlock switch on the driver's door (with the driver's door still open and unlocked), perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock. A lock/unlock cycle consists of pressing the power lock switch, followed by pressing the power unlock switch on the driver's door panel. Use an even pace and try to go relatively fast.
b)Close, then open, the driver's door.
4. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a) Using the power lock/unlock switch on the driver's door, perform 5 lock/unlock cycles starting with lock, as you did previously.
b) Turn the ignition to "ON" (as far as you can go without cranking your engine), then back to "OFF". paul6
c) Again, turn the ignition to "ON" (as far as you can go without cranking your engine), then back to "OFF".
d) Remove the key from the ignition.
5. Within 3 seconds, the power door locks should cycle (lock then unlock) automatically, indicating successful entry into programming mode. Return to step 1 if the locks do not cycle at this point.
6. Perform these steps within 40 seconds:
a) Press the lock and unlock buttons on the transmitter (the remote) simultaneously for 1 second.
b) Immediately after letting go of the lock and unlock buttons, hit the lock button by itself and hold it for 2 seconds. Within 3 seconds, the door locks should cycle (lock then unlock) once indicating successful programming. If the door locks don't cycle, or cycle twice, repeat steps 6a and 6b, as this means the remote has not been accepted.
c) Repeat steps 6a and 6b for each transmitter that will operate the vehicle, including any old transmitters.
7. Close driver's door.
8. Treat yourself to something nice with what you've saved.
You have to repeat 6 a) and b) for EVERY remote, both your old ones that were already working, and your new one(s). And you have to do it before closing the driver's door in step 7.
Don't test your remotes until you've completed step 7. Then go ahead and test all of them. If you press one of the buttons on the remotes before having completed everything and closing the driver's door, the programming will not be successful.
These instructions are for a 2000 SE model and may apply for your year....
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Unfortunately, it doesn't help me answer your problem. I'm on board with shifty so far on this one. what the heck is so complicated on this car? I think it might be more an issue of mechanics usually finding Escort owners unwilling to spend money on their car. But that's just a theory on my part.
Anyway, I don't think the idle control valve makes sense because you are having a problem at highway speed. I'd be more inclined to go with the throttle position sensor because this could possibly explain a few of the several symptoms you are seeing, as well as that open throttle fault. Then again, would that also give the idle problem? Maybe Ford is right. Maybe its BOTH parts. Yeah, like shifty said, it sounds like guessing, but, frankly, sometimes auto mechanics involves guessing (or i just suck at it, take your pick).
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
The A/C problem like i said was the wide open throttle malfunction. It is basically shutting off the A/C because it thinks I am trying to pass someone which is causing the engine to over-rev. They don't know why it is doing that. Firestone said that it could be one of three parts to fix it: the wire harness, the sensor that sends info from the harness, or the car computer itself. They said they don't have the equipment or techs to fix it so they suggest I take it to ford.
Ford IACs are known for failure as well - replacing teh IAC and the WOT sensor should cure the problem, but have the tech check the wiring harness at the same time.
If you need an ECM, get a reman privately, don't use the dealer necessarily - you can easily save $200-300, and the Ford versions are remanufactured, too...
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Also, at these extremely high miles, you really have to look at a clogged radiator or a bad head gasket as other causes of rapid overheat.