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When I shut my car off, I hear the AC hissing, a friend has told me that it's just the AC equalizing (from hi pressure to lo pressure, thru some valve) other cars haven't been as noisy as my jeep is, is this normal, or indicative of something else?
thanks in advance
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Depends on whether they "solved" the problem by replacing the injector itself (rust, clogging, bad seal) or the harness (bad wiring).
I am buying a car this weekend, great deal but no cruise control. How hard and how expensive is it to put cruise in? (It's a 2000 Dodge Neon.)
The stalk they install doesn't match the rest of the switches and stalks, so be prepared for that.
I crushed my right ankle playing racquetball while in the Air Force (broken in 9 places), though, so I won't own a car without cruise control - I'd be installing it if it didn't have it.
but you know it would take an amazing amount of gunk to completely stop up an in-line or spin on fuel filter. But the ones in the tank, if this vehicle has one, can collapse and/or crud up. Jeeps like to do that a lot.
Sounds like you have what we call a "heat-soak" problem, which is a fancy way of saying that something in your engine doesn't like it when it warms up and it starts to fail. This could be electrical or fuel related. Given that it DOES start after a bit, I am leaning toward a fuel problem or fuel sensor rather than ignition. I think spark plug wires, plugs, etc. are a waste of money unless you are do for them anyway.
So I think your dealer is on the right track although I don't know what's in your fuel tank that's going to cause this kind of heat-soak issue.
Have you tried flooring the gas pedal and keeping it there when you start it warm? If that works, I'd be guessing you are getting too rich of a fuel enrichment with a warm engine.
But, you do say you have problems after waiting for 30 minutes or so.
Anyway, your problem is probably the Fuel Pressure Regulator. This is under the Plastic/Chromelooking cover on the top of the motor. It on the fuel rail, I think before the first injector. It has a sensor and a vacumn hose on it. Start the car and pull the vacumn hose off. If any fuel at all leaks out, you need to replace it. Aftermarket, about $70.
What happens is, when stopped, fuel under pressure leaks into the vacumn line and this is pulled into the intake when being restarted, causing an overly rich mixture - hard starts. You probably can see a puff of smoke when it does start.
Your caddy dealer is just trying to get into your pocket. I don't know of a 'sensor' in the fuel tank. Now the fuel pump is in there. If it is going out, the dealer should be able to put a pressure gauge onto a valve that is also on the fuel rail and see low fuel pressure - both with key on before starting and after start and running. If there is low fuel pressure, first change the fuel filter - if this does not correct, then a fuel pump will probably be needed. Which is inside the fuel tank, and the pump and fuel gauge meter are usually both replaced.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Elissa
Thanks.
In a possibly related note, we'd had a problem with the "check temperature" light coming on for no reason about 1 1/2 years ago, but the local shop just disconnected the sensor on that, since the temp gauge always showed normal.
Has this been encountered by anyone else? I'd be grateful for any advice.
Recently I jacked my front wheels off the ground to check for a warped brake rotor. The parking brake on the rear wheels was locked. I started the engine and put it into drive. The front wheels spun...but (perhaps fortunately) the rear did not. Later I wondered why i didn't stall the engine or lurch forward if the AWD was working. Comment?
Usually the problem is one of two things...bad pump or clogged nozzles. Rarely but occasionally you'll get a corroded connector at the pump motor.
A simple test light and a friend operating the stalk switch should solve your mystery.
Yeah, I imagine that it was fortunate your rear wheels did not move. At idle, there is not going to be enough torque to overcome the parking brake if it is working properly, but that does not mean torque is not being applied. The engine won't stall for similar reasons that it does not stall when you stop at a light....
If you want to see if all 4 wheels are powered, just put the whole car on jack stands and put it into drive again (without a parking brake). I'm sure you'll see them all spinning. Or, you can just high-center it in some snow for a similar effect. Ah! If you want to have some real fun, do what you did last time but then stomp on the accelerator. That should get you moving. ;-)
Just in case this isn't a joke, DO NOT EVER bind the wheels of an AWD vehicle while others are allowed to move!
I should have put a disclaimer at the bottom of my post:
*Do NOT try this at home.....
You're serious? You did this to your car?
Excessive idling can cause serious carbon build up in the heads, increased emissions, spark knock when accelerating, and ultimately shortens engine life.
In old days with chokes, warmup meant the extra rich mixture had leaned slightly so you didn't damage the walls as much with the washdown by the extra gasoline that caused metal on metal friction. Now the computer control has the mixture leaned out and the oil can keep the walls lubed.
I had a 67 Mustang that I tore down at 30K due to a seizing problem. Found the ridges were alread definite where the walls had worn due to gasoline washing away the oil when cold with a rich mixture.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
Thanks in advance
I had one leak at the rubber part of the valve stem where it meets the rim -- when I didn't have new stews installed at 60K with new Michelins.
I've actually checked the bead area with a sponge and Dawn in water--kind of richer than you'd use for washing dishes. Just dab along the bead. I've also checked the tread by dabbing water on it then moving the car a few inches and dabbing water on the next area. Found the brad that was causing the leak!!! The inner bead would be a bear to reach unless it's on the front and you can turn the wheel sharply.
I try to do anything to avoid removing the wheel.
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
The car is under warranty, but the guys said they would fix it no matter what.
One week later, it's at the Pontiac dealership (upon delivery from the shade tree mechanic at the car lot) with no visible codes from the computer scanner.
I told them they have to drive it more than just the mechanic driving it home overnight and "burning" up my mileage. It has to be driven "all day". But, the Pontiac dealership said they can't find any problems and could not get the car to replicate the problem.
To make my long story short, could it be a clogged fuel filter or is it the fuel pump? I say put a new filter and pump on it instead of sitting on the hands and make a start somewhere. Atleast there would be a new pump on it if that isn't the problem.
We haven't even put 100 miles on it yet, the mechanics put more miles on it than us. :-(
Please help anyone.
I was on my way to memorial on thursday.
(The union Iron Workers whos plane went down in
Alaska and still havent been found yet. Hear
about it?) And the Celica died on the Freeway,
lost all power! Now it just turns over. Thought it
was the timing belt, its ok!
The car has been thrusting forward lately
like im stabbing the gas pedel.
1990 Celica st
Any suggestions Thx,
Dave
Iron Workers Local 118 Sacramento Ca
They need to start checking wiring connections, and of course, fuel pump output. The problem with a fuel pump failure, specifically, is that it does fail intermittently until it dies.
That's the first place I would go.
They need to start checking wiring connections, and of course, fuel pump output. The problem with a fuel pump failure, specifically, is that it does fail intermittently until it dies.
That's the first place I would go.
And just a word about the whole picture - you want them to drive it all day, but you don't want them to put any miles on it?? You simply can't have it both ways - they either diagnose it and fix it, or they don't.
On your Celica, maybe a fuel filter that's fallen apart if the pump's ok?
Steve, Host
Have a 2000 Lincoln LS (V8) and the engine light has just come on. Car seems to be mis-firing, rough acceleration -- a sort of lurching feeling. Lincoln's manual suggested higher-octane (91) fuel which has slightly mitigated the problem. But it's still apparent when I have to accelerate. The problem started after a recent long, high-speed, drive. I've been told it might be everything from old spark plugs -- I have 70,000 on the car and don't believe they've ever been changed -- to a catalytic converter problem. I'm trying to avoid going to the dealership ($$$). Thanks