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Comments
I would give them as much information as you can.
Then mention that you came across a TSB that you think may pertain to your problem and ask if they could check it out. If you have a copy, then ask them to look at it and see if they think it is your problem.
If they give you the "I'm the mechanic and I know what I am doing", then run, don't walk to another mechanic.
Half of the diagnosis is listening to the customer and seeing what information they can give you. If they aren't willing to listen to you, then they have a one track mind and are going to go one direction anyway.
They may tell you that they know about the TSB and don't think it pertains to your problem, but at least they listened to you.
Most good mechanics will look at the TSB and then either tell you that it may or may not be something they think is what you need.
If it's something they did wrong, or a part they replaced, it should be covered by their internal warranty.
If you let another technician put his hands on it, you relieve the first shop of any liability, and whatever correction there is to your problem comes out of your pocket.
Most shops want to make their customers happy and correct a mistake - if not, go from there after you figure out what's wrong.
As for the engine light, that may or may not be related. Perhaps some line or hose is off?
Not sure I'd drive the car, either.
Your engine will labor more during initial acceleration in first and second gear with the 3.73s, using more fuel.
You're looking at (at least) an $800 job, and even if you saved 1 mile per gallon (I say "if"), you wouldn't pay yourself back during the ownership of the truck.
You didn't mention if it was four-wheel drive - if so, double that cost - many shops charge over a grand, parts included, for a gear swap, and if it isn't done by a specialty shop, be prepared for gear lash, whining, and premature wear - I was shocked and amazed to find out that most regular mechanics don't do differential gears.
This is the same debate as the old Ford F-250/F-350 gas motor question - the trucks came with either a 5.8 or a 7.5 (460) - people would order a 351, thinking they would get better mileage, when the opposite was actually true - to perform normal daily duties, the 351 was overworked, and the 460 was just loping along - the 351 got 3-4 mpg LESS than a 460 in that application -
The owner was disadvantaged is several ways - the 351 had less power, got worse mileage, and killed the truck on resale.
The 8.1 and Duramax have much more bottom end torque than the 6.0 - they have the reserve torque where they don't need a 4.10 gear to do normal work, except for towing at maximum capacity.
The 6.0 can use the advantage of the 4.10 gears, and when you gear down the 6.0 with a 3.73 gear, the engine has to work harder - think of it like riding a mountain bike - your legs have a set level of strength - if you drop the gears down and make it easier to pedal, it's much less work on you and you use less muscle and don't fatigue as easily - now, Lance Armstrong's legs have the power of a Duramax, so it doesn't matter WHAT gear he's in!
"this is one of the many reasons for the big year end incentives"
Your dealer is throwing you a line of bull - it isn't like there are rebates specifically for 4.10 gear-equipped trucks...
If I were you I'd explore less expensive areas of possible improvement (no guarantees here). You could run higher tire pressures and use syhthetic oils in your engine, trans and diff. This will give you better economy during cold weather operation at least. You could dial in your front end alignment and even check with a tire specialist to see if a less rugged tire pattern might help you.
Fuel mileage is often a matter of driving technique. I can usually get better fuel mileage with a friends car than they can, not because I am brilliant but just because I've taught myself some good habits.
1. No lugging, no over-revving, just a good mid-range throttle.
2. Anticipate stops and starts by picking the right lanes and not rushing to stop lights.
3. Running a half full to full tank of gas and not letting to go all the way to empty (this also kills fuel pumps).
4. Avoid excessive idling or warm up. (that's zero miles per gallon remember).
5. run a steady speed on the highway and anticipate hill climbs beforehand.
6. don't run a higher octane fuel than necessary to "treat your car" or think you're getting more power.
7. Don't use AC unless it's really hot. "Four way AC" works great (all four windows open) much of the time, and AC really gobbles fuel.
Hope this helps.
If you just want a highway truck and don't tow or haul anything, then yes, the smaller ratio is probably your best bet, but if you are going to tow or haul anything you want the heavier rear end.
"you must work for GM"
You obviously haven't read my profile - I work AGAINST GM, not FOR them...
I do 20 GM lemon law and breach of warranty cases per week - that's the caseload for the one attorney I work for who deals solely with GM.
We are presuming the following:
Your speed is 55 mph, your tires are 16", your transmission has an overdrive gear ratio of .67 (overdrives vary from about .80 to .63 or so).
With a 4.10 your rpm will be 3174
With a 3.73 your rpm will be 2888
This is roughly a 9% drop in rpm so in totally ideal circumstance we might roughly and blindly guess you'd get 9% better fuel mileage.
I really don't think it's quite that simple but it does show that more than 9% is unlikely. So you're looking at maybe 1 to 1.5 mpg better?
So then, what's that worth to you?
There is no specific weather or tempature it will happen more in. Its always when my foot is on the clutch and the tachometer falls to idle. Then there is a click and the engine is off. The only way I notice its off is if I am looking at the dash (it lights up) or I will find steering harder as power steering is gone. The engine does not go roughly or make any noise. Its just off. The lights and radio are un-interupted. Honda can not find the problem.
The Honda mechanics have replaced the main relay, replaced the igniter, replaced the cars computer chip, checked the catalytic converter and found no problems. Air filter and spark plugs are new. They are stumped and I am left with a car that randomly stops working. Only other thing I can think of (that may not even be related) is that sometimes while cruising the car power, feels like you release the gas pedal, then apply it again. Like its backing off for half a second. Anybody have any ideas?
Any recommendations?
Should the pedal cover surface be smooth or somewhat rough (to avoid slip off)?
Thanks,
Joe.
Any additional suggestions that I can investige to solve this? Thanks.
Of course, I know the aftermarket people will tell you that those cushioned pedals are much heavier but I bet your car can shoulder that burden without too much loss of performance--LOL!
The front pads are done and the rotors are down to .97 (i think).
I was told
1. the rotors can't be cut again
2. i can't replace the rotors without also replacing the hubs b/c my vehicle manuf date is 5/95 and they changed the rotor/hub assembly in 8/95
3. Just "slapping on" new pads is not recomended
Any advice on what to do for a quick fix?
I'm sure you do need to replace the rotors and pads, but another $500-600 for wheel bearings/hub assemblies looks VERY suspicious.
I'm still tempted to just slap on some new pads to get a couple months out of the vehicle.
Also:
What happens if i keep driving without new pads (there is currently no friction material).
Do i get any warning or do the brakes just fail?
DO NOT CONSIDER DRIVING THE VAN WITH METAL TO METAL BRAKES !!
If you're trading the van soon, putting on pads is fine as long as you don't have massive rotor warpage. In fact, if you don't have warpage and vibration, I wouldn't machine the rotors anyway, just scuff them to mate better with teh new pads.
The information you were given doesn't sound right.
I had to go back and re-read the posts again, but regardless, if the rotors aren't grooved or warped and brake rotor minimum thickness is .974, which is cast into the rotor. So you can confirm that.
So, how accruate was the measurement?
If it is, then it sounds like the torque converter control solenoid is having problems.
It read .0097 or .097 or somthin like that. He said that resurfacing would bring them down below the .95 throw out spec.
Also, at local auto parts stores they quote
Korean (Asian) rotors for $18 each
or
Autospecialtys for
$50 each
Does anyone here have experience with Korean(cheap) rotors. Do they perform any differently than American rotors.
Thanks to all who responded
Cheap rotors, usually made in China or Taiwan tend to warp quicker because of cheaper materials and casting procedures.
Raybestos and Bendix are a bit harder to net search - it seems that their rotor and brake pad lines are manufactured by smaller companies that licensed or bought the use of the names from the original companies.
In a few more years we'll be talking about Chinese brands the same way we now talk about formerly maligned Japanese brands.
Steve, Host
Steve, Host
raybestos and bendix are merger meat, but they are still owned by old-line parts companies from the US. I forget who is over raybestos now... some google chasing shows that dana corporation owns 'em, and dana is solid... and bendix is part of the honeywell constellation (formerly allied-signal, who also bought honeywell and took the name.) wagner is part of federal-mogul.
brake parts companies that have been around longer than your lunchmeat are all caught up in the wonderful world of asbestos lawsuits, so they were changing hands as outfits figured they could avoid the hassles and get the bucks... until they found out what kind of lawyers were behind the suits, and the musical chairs stopped.
stick with one of the three brands I mentioned above, buy the premium or one-notch-down products that fit your application, and barring lousy installation, you should be satisfied.
and I suppose Wan Look coolers will last at least one party season, too....
Axle Shaft, Bearing and Seal
Ford Ranger/Bronco II 1983-1990 Repair Guide
REMOVAL & INSTALLATION
Raise and support the vehicle safely.
Remove the rear wheels and brake drums.
Drain the rear axle lubricant.
For all axles except 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio:
Remove the differential pinion shaft lock bolt and differential pinion shaft.
The pinion gears may be left in place. Once the axle shafts are removed, reinstall the pinion shaft and lock bolt.
For 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio axles:
Remove the pinion shaft lock bolt. Place a hand behind the differential case and push out the pinion shaft until the step contacts the ring gear.
Remove the C-lockwasher from the axle shafts.
Remove the axle shafts from the housing. If the seals and/or bearing are not being replaced, be careful not to damage the seals with the axle shaft splines upon removal.
Use an appropriate pry bar to remove the axle shaft seal from the housing.
To install:
If removed, lubricate the new bearing with rear axle lubricant and install the bearing into the housing bore.
Apply Multi-Purpose Long-Life Lubricant, C1AZ-19590-B or equivalent, between the lips of the axle shaft seal.
Install a new axle shaft seal.
To permit axle shaft installation on 3.73:1 and 4.10:1 ratio axles, make sure the differential pinion shaft contacts the ring gear before performing Step 11.
Carefully slide the axle shaft into the axle housing, making sure not to damage the oil seal. Start the splines into the side gear and push firmly until the button end of the axle shaft can be seen in the differential case.
Install the C-lockwasher on the end of the axle shaft splines, then pull the shaft outboard until the shaft splines engage the C-lockwasher seats in the counterbore of the differential side gear.
Position the differential pinion shaft through the case and pinion gears, aligning the hole in the shaft with the lock screw hole. Install the lock bolt and tighten to 15-22 ft. lbs. (21-29Nm).
Clean the gasket mounting surface on the rear axle housing and cover. Apply a continuous bead of Silicone Rubber Sealant ESE-M4G195-A or equivalent to the carrier casting face.
Install the cover and tighten the retaining bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (20-34Nm).
The cover assembly must be installed within 15 minutes of application of the silicone sealant.
Add lubricant until it is 1/4 in. (6mm) below the bottom of the filler hole in the running position.
Install the filler plug and tighten to 15-30 ft. lbs. (20-41Nm).
After 15 minutes or so, the engine gets very rough and will stall. The time used to be 30+ minutes and is getting shorter! The engine needs to cool down to run again. Installed new fuel filter; 38PSI fuel pressure at filter; new cap and rotor; plugs look good.
After getting stuck on the road, cleaning the throttle plate area helped but only short-term.
Will try to get to AutoZone to see if I can get a diagnostic (didn't make it two days ago and walked home).
Anybody see this engine problem before? Any ideas would be greatly appreciated!
Thanks,
John
ALCAN--any chance of bobbling the spider gears and dropping them when you do this, like on old GM diffs?
one is factory s/c 3800 Series 2 S/C
-compression ratio 8.5 to 1
- Max boost 7 to 9 PSI
- requires 91 octane
one is just a 3800 Series 2
- compression ratio 10 to 1
-requires 87 octane
I have some questions about these two
1. Why does GM lower the compression ratio to 8.5 on the supercharged variant of this engine?
2. Wouldn't the supercharged engine produce more power if they left the compression alone while adding the s/c?
Also, should one of these engines have a longer expected life, all other things being equal (driving style, maintenance etc...)
3. It is my understanding that the supercharger is belt driven and actually saps engine power (just like an a/c compressor), and that when the extra air isn't being used it is routed through a bypass.
Isn't this very inefficient?
Won't this cause the non supercharged engine to perform better when the boost is being bypassed in the s/c engine ?
4. The owners manual said that 87 octane could be used in a pinch (just until you find premium again) for the s/c engine.
I have used it at times and haven't noticed any difference in performance, but I have noticed that fuel economy is about 1-2 MPG better with REGULAR. I am assuming that the knock sensor detuned the engine and made it more effiecient,
My question is , will this damage anything long term?
when I had a ranger that chugged to a pitiful stop in cold weather as soon as the temp needle started to move, the fix was an oxygen sensor. YMMV.
remember that the code scanners give you a code that usually indicates the REGION of the engine in which there is an issue. if it did otherwise, instead of E1782 or similar codes, it would say, "replace part 1234NG9876, frammistan at flummox valve, list $395.78 in 1999." just buying ten parts based on two code numbers might STILL not fix the issue, it could be an adjustment. that's where manuals and mechanics remain important, chasing a diagnostic chart to find out exactly what is screwed up.
good luck with it. if you get the codes, post 'em on the scanner topic, and you will probably get directed help from some of the mechanics that haunt these parts.
The car's a '94 Honda Accord with about 170k mi. I started it up (to drive it to the detailer prior to selling it - a charming irony I thought) and there was no power steering.
Iif there were any symptoms leading up to this, they were very subtle. There was no progressive loss of boost, there's no fluid under the car, no visible hose or belt problems but then again there's too much under the hood for my meager mechanical skills. I used to do tune-ups when cars were simple. I don't touch them anymore.
I have a gas station very close to the house which I'd rather not take it to if I can avoid it, a Honda dealer about 25 miles in one direction and a highly recommended mechanic the same distance in the other direction.
My question is really, can I drive it 25 miles? If not, I'm thinking about adding a tow or flatbed charge to whatever other costs it will incur.
Maybe the local gas station can tell me whether it's major or minor (a belt after all); if it's minor let them do it, if it's major, haul it from there to the good mechanic...
Waddya all think?
It could be several things, from as simple as a messed up check valve in the pump, a bad pump, or a blockage in one of the lines.
Check the fluid in the pump, making sure it's good - if the fluid's good and the belt is in place, you need to have it towed - I never recommend taking ANYTHING to a gas station, except in an emergency - a private garage is a much better option. Call a friend or co-worker to see who they'd recommend that is close, reasonable, and honest.
If it is morning sickness, then eventually it will get worse and will require replacement of the rack & pinion unit.