Got a Quick, Technical Question?

Mr_Shiftright

Well you're gonna have to read the codes to get a starting point, otherwise you are playing darts with your checkbook.

Ignition is a good guess given your symptoms.

But codes will allow a more "surgical strike" rather than you possibly replacing everything within two square yards of the problem.

You really shouldn't drive with the engine light on, you could be destroying something.

pebblesdelight

My hubby thinks it could be electrical, because of the intermittent problem, but I told him that's what fuel pumps generally do. I don't doubt him completely, but my dad is a mechanic and I grew up around this stuff. He said to start somewhere, they should go ahead and replace both the filter and the pump, sounds good to me. I would check the fuel pressure myself, if it does it again, but I don't have a fuel pressure gauge.:-(
I will mention to the mechanic about the PCM.
No, I wasn't downing them because they had to do their job, with the mileage, I just want to drive it too. lol
I should know something by Wed. I will keep you posted.

Thanks for your help guys.

gregoryc1

Change the cap on the fuel tank. You might have a bad cap, or the wrong cap for your vehicle! The easiest way to check this, is when the condition occurs. Open the cap, and then close it again. If the engine starts, you have found your problem. Just a suggestion. ----Greg

driftracer

a "service engine soon" light activation due to emissions leak down issues, but I've NEVER seen a fuel cap cause stalling.

If the fuel cap, that piece of plastic, was bad of somehow deformed, it would be a continual problem, not an intermittent issue.

leisha

it will crank but wont start

driftracer

of the fuel filter - I have a 1995 and just changed mine - it's on the driver's side fuel rail, right under the rear portion of the driver's seat. Kinda tucked up in there, a little hard to see. It's a $10 part, change that first.

These things have had problems with fuel pumps, and would be a good place to diagnose for steady current at the pump and pressure at the fuel rail.

hylos

Hello !

Let me introduce myself, I'm student in electrical and computing embedded area.
And I would like to know how the lateral control system works ?
Especially, how you can control the steering ? (with DC motor , but with hydraulic control steering, how does it works ?) If you have any schema or pictures to complete your explanation it will be nice.

Thank you in advance,
   
Best regards,
Gabriel,

leisha

we checked all of that and still no fuel pressure int he lines it is the pump thanks

jmblodgett

The temp guage on my 1986 Honda Civic 4WD Wagon (1.5 L 2-bbl 4 cyl) recently stopped working (though on occasion it registers a small amount of a reading). It seems that ever since my car has a habit of stalling until after the engine has warmed for a bit--for example, coming to a stop, when I pop the clutch and hit the brakes, the revs will nosedive and the car will stall unless I give it some gas.

Any thoughts where the issue is--the temp sender? Thermostat? Etc.?

harris4

My '94 6 cyl always needs gas. I went about 30 miles and my gauge went to 1/4 tank to almost empty. We just purchased this truck and need to know if anybody knows what is going on.
Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

I would certainly replace the temp sender right off and see what happens. You can check the dash gauge by grounding the wire to the sender and seeing if it runs up to "HOT". That means gauge okay, sender probably bad.

A thermostat stuck open might be the problem if the sender checks out good and the gauge is bad. A thermostat stuck open is kind of rare though, but possible. If you wanted, you could probably open the radiator cap (not the overflow but the cap on top of the radiator) with a COLD engine, start 'er up and with a friend observing see if you see water flowing across the top of the radiator. This would indicate an open thermostat, which is not good with a cold engine.

Mr_Shiftright

Well that is so bizarre I need to ask a couple of questions first, expecially since you just got the truck.

First of all, did you put in the full amount of fuel, that is, when you "filled it up" did it take the normal gallonage?

What I'm driving at here is that if the truck only acccepted 5-6 gallons and registered "full", you might have a badly dented gas tank or a totally screwy full gauge or sending unit.

If the tank looks undamaged, it's possibly you have a lot more fuel in there than the gauge tells you.

First thing you need to do is tell us how much fuel the truck takes AFTER it registers 1/4 full. Second thing you need to tell us is what the normal fuel tank capacity is for that truck (Ford dealer knows this if you don't have the owner's manual).

If in fact you are gobbling up ten gallons of gas in 30 miles I really can't imagine you not noticing one of two things:

Huge clouds of black smoke coming out the tailpipe

or

A really big gas leak

harris4

It is a 16 gal tank. I was on (or close to) E when I put $14 worth of gas in the tank. This gave me about 7 gallons.

There is not a gas leak or black smoke coming out the tailpipe.

My Dad tightened a vacuum line going to the throttle assist. He didn't think that being loose would cause that much gas lose.

adhmi

I have a 1997 honda Accord. I was trying to replace the Spark plugs and the last one I cannot even get my 5/8" tool to grip. I tried using my wrench etc but it would not grip. I am not sure if the nut portions have rusted. I tried smaller sizes but no luck. When I palce the socket into the cavity and turn it rotates freely. I tried a smaller socket with no luck.

Any one have any suggestions or ideas.

Thanks

Mr_Shiftright

Hard to believe the plug face could be so stripped as to not even be turnable, but who knows? Are you the first owner? Ever had the plugs out before?

Can you shine a flashlight into the hole and see if the faces of the plug have been rounded off, by comparing to other plugs? Does your wrench work on the other plugs?

If it's stripped, you have got a major problem on your hands. I have a radical solution but it's a last ditch type of thing before the head comes off....and that is.....take an air wrench to it and sometimes the fast - spinning socket, even if it isn't tight on the plug, may vibrate enough to spin it loose.

Also you might try a slightly smaller metric deep socket and tap it over the plug. You may break the plug but if it comes out, so what?

Mr_Shiftright

Okay, then let's assume one of two things...no, three...no, FOUR things:

1. Faulty gas gauge

2. Faulty sending unit in tank

3. Badly smashed in fuel tank

4. Fuel tank not venting properly, making you think your tank is full but it isn't.

Two of these are easy to check:

1. Inspect tank for damamge

2. Ground the sending wire at top of tank and see of gauge runs quickly up to full. If it does, sending unit is bad, gauge is good. If it doesn't run up to full, or only goes to 1/4, gauge is bad.

3. Next time you fill, after the gas nozzle clicks off, see if you can squeeze any more in there. Fill it SLOWLY this time. This will tell you perhaps if you have a venting problem (you need air coming out as the gas displaces the air in the tank, otherwise the nozzle thinks the tank is full, but it's reading "air" actually.

adhmi

I am not the first owner. I think they were changed before. I looked down the hole and and it is very diffcult to see. I even tried some tape on the inside of my socket as a shim. I dont have an airtool, but I will used a better flashlight to see If I can see whats up. Taking the head will be a real pain in <10 deg C temps. It runs fine, but not sure if it is firing on only 3 cycls

adhmi

Checked with a strong flash and also tried to measure the depth my socket extender goesd between plugs. The extender is proud on this plus, but I treid gentle taps and it woudl go any further. Did not want to hammer in case the cycling positions are offset to account for the difference. Vaguely you canot make out the hex part of the plug, which tells me it is rusted, but strange it would be that way since the wire protect it ok. Anyway, it maybe working, but what would be symption of that cyclinder not firing.

toy85

I have an 85 toyota 5sp pickup, fuel injected, 238k. How often do I need to change my tranny and rear diff. oil?

thx

harris4

I will try the things you mentioned. The reason I only filled up to 1/4 tank of gas is because I only had $14.00, it was not because the gas nozzle clicked off.:-)

Mr_Shiftright

I wonder if something fell down in there and is blocking the socket, like the little connector on top of a spark plug or a loose nut or something.

You can test to see if the plug is firing by starting the engine and then, with INSULATED pliers, pull off the spark plug wire. If the engine speed drops, that cylinder was firing before the disconnect. If no change, either the plug is dead or the cylinder is dead.

Sometimes you can make a dead plug fire by holding the spark plug wire just far enough away from the spark plug to cause a fat spark to jump from wire to plug. This creates a bit stronger spark than usual and may blast through minor fouling on the plug.

If the cylinder or plug is dead, you are going to have to get it out of there somehow. I really can't believe someone could strip a spark plug or that rust could destroy it that much. There must be something jammed down there beside the plug. Can you get a thin 'stick magnet" down there?

Mr_Shiftright

I think every 60,000 miles would be a good idea. You might find synthetic gear oil helpful if your transmission is a bit balky to shift, otherwise whatever the book recommends.

Mr_Shiftright

I bet your gauge is just goofy. Otherwise, such enormous fuel consumption would have obvious symptoms, rather dramatic in nature.

harris4

I will try the things you mentioned. The reason I only filled up to 1/4 tank of gas is because I only had $14.00, it was not because the gas nozzle clicked off.:-)

harris4

How can I fix the guage?

Mr_Shiftright

Hmmm...not so easy. I don't really know. We'd need to consult the workshop manual for that one, since all cars are different. Let's hope it's the sending unit in the tank, that's easier in some ways.

qbrozen

I wouldn't be so quick to think there is necessarily something wrong with the guage. Some vehicles really are just goofy. I remember how my '87 Toyota truck and my brother's '84 Toy could continue to drive for almost 100 miles BELOW the empty line. My '92 mercedes fluctuates as much as 1/4 a tank when going around curves. Floats are not an exact science.

I'd give it some time and live with the truck a little longer before assuming this is a "problem."

camrider

Is it normal for a new car to have the tranny fluid level about 1/2 inch above the max hot level mark? Check done with h engine hot ( driven 10 miles, engine running on level ground).

volvodrvr

My father in law has a 98 Olds Silhouette minivan. Last night, the power seats and the power door stopped working, and he cant work out why. He said he checked the fuses, but they all seem ok. Are these things on the same fuse and any ideas what to double check. Seems a bit odd that both seats and the door would stop at the same time. Thanks for advice in advance

dhoff

OK, quick question. What kind of water should I use to get a 50/50 antifreeze mix. Distilled, hard or soft tap water? Or something else?

Thanks.

Dave

volvodrvr

distilled, anything else will have impurities in it and leave deposits in the system.

driftracer

been a hard-core car guy since I was a teenager, ASE-certified, service manager, yada, yada, and NEVER used distilled water, except in batteries...

Lost count at the hundreds of thousands of miles that have been driven in my vehicles with their radiators flushed and filled with Prestone and garden hose water (unless they use the red stuff).

Mr_Shiftright

True, but that was before all these fancy-pants alloy engines.

Distilled water would be the safest bet if you are keeping this car a long time.

driftracer

80s with aluminum-headed vehicles...

I'm just saying that it isn't going to explode or anything...

Mr_Shiftright

It's recommended for my car so I do it. I figure those guys with the propeller beanies who designed it are real smart so I'll take their word for it. So I'd do what the manufacturer says--that's probably the best policy.

3745

It's not only fancy-pants alloy engines - what about aluminum cored radiators and heaters?

Mr_Shiftright

There you go. Another good reason. My radiator costs $1,300 for a replacement. I'd rather not.

adhmi

My last resort was to take digital images down the plug hole and try to enhance and see if the plug was indeed rusted or whatever, The pictures do not show a distict hex which to me indicates that it has been rusted round. I tried to clean the hole by blowing air and some WD-40 but no luck. So it fires ok, supoosedly I spoke to the previous owner and he mentioned no issues, but had put a platinum plug 2 years ago, so maybe it can last me another few years before I need to worry again (touch wood).

Thanks for your advice.

veasnalong

You may need to buy this tool and use long socket
this tool you can take off any strip bolt or nut
its grab by the center not on strip edge take a
look at this site below
http://www.mitools.com/

I owned one of this tool works great
Good luck

imidazol97

Which tool on this site? The 62 piece set or the pressure washer???

Mr_Shiftright

What a weird problem! And what a challenge. I'm sitting here thinking, now HOW would I get that plug out without removing the head? I think if I could tap a very tight socket around the plug and get an air wrench, that might work. Of course, you'll only get one chance on that.

3745

I think somebody tried to remove that plug by using an ill fitting socket and rounding off the corners.

My last resort would be this - and I've done it before on a deeply recessed bolt that had a rounded off head. You will sacrifice a socket but it's worth it. Using the electrode holder of a heavy duty welder, connect the socket to it and put the socket over the plug. Switch the welder on. With luck the socket will weld onto the plug.
Just disconnect the alternator and battery cables before you try this.

veasnalong

They don't sale one piece you have to buy the whole
set of 62 Pcs. there were two socket for Spark Plug
on The bottom left of tool set case http://www.mitools.com/
I think this is the only option for you
unless you remove Head but that will cost you more
remember this tool will be good for future use take off any damage bolt or nut. If you think the cost of this tool too much for you than you out of luck.

driftracer

that type of socket would remove a rounded hex bolt head of a spark plug...

imidazol97

I would not be surprised if some company makings a wrench that would clamp onto a rounded nut and bite into it, much like the stud removal bits for drilling into a stud and backing it out.

I would search for a good, older mechanic with lots of experience and who says he can weld this on and get hold of the plug...

Any possibility that's the original spark plug!!!

veasnalong

I owned this tool, it grab by the center of the bolt or nut NOT on the edge unlike other tool does. take a good look at the site and play the DEMO you will see with your own eyes

driftracer

though, is a breakable ceramic electrode....can't see that being strong enough to use to trun a rusted, threaded steel "bolt" in a corroded cylinder head.

alcan

Are you using a 6 or 12 point plug socket? If it's a 12 point, a 6 point might work. Also, I'd put the socket on another plug and mark how deep the extension is going into the recess, then put it on the stripped plug and verify it's going all the way down onto the plug.

3745

You could also break the insulator off the plug, put a plug socket on the plug and then, thread the welding rod carefully down the socket extension hole untill the arc strikes and weld the plug and the socket together.

Mr_Shiftright

Geez, what if you welded the socket onto the head?