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Ignition is a good guess given your symptoms.
But codes will allow a more "surgical strike" rather than you possibly replacing everything within two square yards of the problem.
You really shouldn't drive with the engine light on, you could be destroying something.
I will mention to the mechanic about the PCM.
No, I wasn't downing them because they had to do their job, with the mileage, I just want to drive it too. lol
I should know something by Wed. I will keep you posted.
Thanks for your help guys.
If the fuel cap, that piece of plastic, was bad of somehow deformed, it would be a continual problem, not an intermittent issue.
These things have had problems with fuel pumps, and would be a good place to diagnose for steady current at the pump and pressure at the fuel rail.
Let me introduce myself, I'm student in electrical and computing embedded area.
And I would like to know how the lateral control system works ?
Especially, how you can control the steering ? (with DC motor , but with hydraulic control steering, how does it works ?) If you have any schema or pictures to complete your explanation it will be nice.
Thank you in advance,
Best regards,
Gabriel,
Any thoughts where the issue is--the temp sender? Thermostat? Etc.?
Thanks
A thermostat stuck open might be the problem if the sender checks out good and the gauge is bad. A thermostat stuck open is kind of rare though, but possible. If you wanted, you could probably open the radiator cap (not the overflow but the cap on top of the radiator) with a COLD engine, start 'er up and with a friend observing see if you see water flowing across the top of the radiator. This would indicate an open thermostat, which is not good with a cold engine.
First of all, did you put in the full amount of fuel, that is, when you "filled it up" did it take the normal gallonage?
What I'm driving at here is that if the truck only acccepted 5-6 gallons and registered "full", you might have a badly dented gas tank or a totally screwy full gauge or sending unit.
If the tank looks undamaged, it's possibly you have a lot more fuel in there than the gauge tells you.
First thing you need to do is tell us how much fuel the truck takes AFTER it registers 1/4 full. Second thing you need to tell us is what the normal fuel tank capacity is for that truck (Ford dealer knows this if you don't have the owner's manual).
If in fact you are gobbling up ten gallons of gas in 30 miles I really can't imagine you not noticing one of two things:
Huge clouds of black smoke coming out the tailpipe
or
A really big gas leak
There is not a gas leak or black smoke coming out the tailpipe.
My Dad tightened a vacuum line going to the throttle assist. He didn't think that being loose would cause that much gas lose.
Any one have any suggestions or ideas.
Thanks
Can you shine a flashlight into the hole and see if the faces of the plug have been rounded off, by comparing to other plugs? Does your wrench work on the other plugs?
If it's stripped, you have got a major problem on your hands. I have a radical solution but it's a last ditch type of thing before the head comes off....and that is.....take an air wrench to it and sometimes the fast - spinning socket, even if it isn't tight on the plug, may vibrate enough to spin it loose.
Also you might try a slightly smaller metric deep socket and tap it over the plug. You may break the plug but if it comes out, so what?
1. Faulty gas gauge
2. Faulty sending unit in tank
3. Badly smashed in fuel tank
4. Fuel tank not venting properly, making you think your tank is full but it isn't.
Two of these are easy to check:
1. Inspect tank for damamge
2. Ground the sending wire at top of tank and see of gauge runs quickly up to full. If it does, sending unit is bad, gauge is good. If it doesn't run up to full, or only goes to 1/4, gauge is bad.
3. Next time you fill, after the gas nozzle clicks off, see if you can squeeze any more in there. Fill it SLOWLY this time. This will tell you perhaps if you have a venting problem (you need air coming out as the gas displaces the air in the tank, otherwise the nozzle thinks the tank is full, but it's reading "air" actually.
thx
You can test to see if the plug is firing by starting the engine and then, with INSULATED pliers, pull off the spark plug wire. If the engine speed drops, that cylinder was firing before the disconnect. If no change, either the plug is dead or the cylinder is dead.
Sometimes you can make a dead plug fire by holding the spark plug wire just far enough away from the spark plug to cause a fat spark to jump from wire to plug. This creates a bit stronger spark than usual and may blast through minor fouling on the plug.
If the cylinder or plug is dead, you are going to have to get it out of there somehow. I really can't believe someone could strip a spark plug or that rust could destroy it that much. There must be something jammed down there beside the plug. Can you get a thin 'stick magnet" down there?
I'd give it some time and live with the truck a little longer before assuming this is a "problem."
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Thanks.
Dave
Lost count at the hundreds of thousands of miles that have been driven in my vehicles with their radiators flushed and filled with Prestone and garden hose water (unless they use the red stuff).
Distilled water would be the safest bet if you are keeping this car a long time.
I'm just saying that it isn't going to explode or anything...
Thanks for your advice.
this tool you can take off any strip bolt or nut
its grab by the center not on strip edge take a
look at this site below
http://www.mitools.com/
I owned one of this tool works great
Good luck
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,
My last resort would be this - and I've done it before on a deeply recessed bolt that had a rounded off head. You will sacrifice a socket but it's worth it. Using the electrode holder of a heavy duty welder, connect the socket to it and put the socket over the plug. Switch the welder on. With luck the socket will weld onto the plug.
Just disconnect the alternator and battery cables before you try this.
set of 62 Pcs. there were two socket for Spark Plug
on The bottom left of tool set case http://www.mitools.com/
I think this is the only option for you
unless you remove Head but that will cost you more
remember this tool will be good for future use take off any damage bolt or nut. If you think the cost of this tool too much for you than you out of luck.
I would search for a good, older mechanic with lots of experience and who says he can weld this on and get hold of the plug...
Any possibility that's the original spark plug!!!
2014 Malibu 2LT, 2015 Cruze 2LT,