Got a Quick, Technical Question?

derpenguin · January 2005

I recently changed the coolant in my 2001 Nissan Pathfinder. The radiator appeared to be full and I started the engine to ensure this. After completing the task I drove the car approximately three blocks. In that time the temperature gage went nearly full scale and the coolant boiled by the time I reached home. I carefully released the pressure (steam and boiling water), allowed the engine to cool, and placed approximately one quart of water in the radiator. I drove approximately five miles and returned home. The temperature gage never read out of the normal (below center point) range. All appears well, however the Service Engine Soon light remains lit. I tried a hard reset (turned on ignition and removed the negative battery terminal for several seconds then reconnected) but the light remains lit. Does any of this sound familiar and/or is there anything else I should check before contacting the dealer? Thanks.

bolivar · January 2005

Possibilities:

-The cooling system was not full of coolant and this vehicle is extremely sensitive to having a full load of coolant. After the boiling (which might have 'purged' the air from the system) and refilling, you got the system full.

-The thermostat stuck closed. After the boilover, it functions ok. It might do this again in the future....

I have no idea why the Service Engine Soon light is lit. I would try removing the negative for a longer period of time than 'a few seconds'. Leave it off 10 minutes and see if the light resets... And, since you were working under there, check to see if you did not pull a connection loose...

jjtj · January 2005

I have an 03 Dodge Grand Caravan with about 42K miles.. the ABS light came on the other night and has been on since. The van has 4 wheel disc brakes with ABS. I have a basic OBD-II scan tool but it didn't show any codes. I disconnected the battery for about 45 minutes, cleaned the connections and put a little dielectric grease on them, the light is still on. I'm thinking a wheel sensor? I wonder if anyone knows of a fairly easy way to test these, and if they are difficult to replace? The van is out of B2B warranty so if it's relatively simple I can probably repair it myself. The ABS worked fine earlier the same day. I last checked pad thickness in the fall and they had probably 75% left in the front at the time, and I've put about 4K on it since then. Haven't checked the rears. Any ideas? Thanks in advance - Jason

cornellpinoy · January 2005

The same symptoms happened on my buddy's '01 Pathfinder. The dealer found a small crack in the throttle body and it needed to be replaced. I never would've guessed it but another indepenent mechanic said he'd seen it on another Pathfinder. My buddy had the throttle body replaced and both problems were solved.

alcan · January 2005

You need an ABS capable scanner such as a Snap-on MT2500 to read the ABS codes. Gonna cost less in the long run to pay to have it scanned than trying to fix it by shotgunning parts at it. Testing wheel speed sensors is simple, they're basic permanent magnet AC signal generators. Quick check, use a digital multimeter to check for an AC voltage output from each sensor while turning the wheel by hand. Accurate check, use an oscilliscope to look at the sensor outputs.

unit374 · January 2005

I changed the plugs, wires, cap and rotor. Cecked the compression (100lbs), checked fuel pressure (60lbs)I have good spark at the plugs but still #1 cylinder is dead. Could this be an intake leak? I hate to tear it down and find it was something else. Both valves are working but still the cylinder won't fire. Can anyone help?

einmalig · January 2005

is there a place to get a list of what should be included in a pre-buying inspection. does it differ from car to car?

tszydlowski · January 2005

I' have to change spark plugs, how get to the 3 back spark plugs, its hard to put your hands back there

any ideas Thanks

Mr_Shiftright · January 2005

I think it differs from car to car but generally the differences don't matter. It is wise, for instance to check for cylinder head oil leaks on a 1990 Porsche, or worn hubs on an early Ford Explorer, but really, this is something you should do with any car in an inspection. Try everything, look everywhere.

Probably the biggest difference is not in the inspection but in the *interpretation* and *analysis". An oil leak on a Honda is not the problem it might be on a Porsche.

jgmilberg · January 2005

Some of that GM family of vans the rear spark plugs are serviced from under the van. If that doesn't work, an old trick was to disconnect the top engine stabilizer(s) and push the vehicle back slightly so the engine rocks to gain the extra room needed. This trick also takes two people or a carefully placed block between the firewall and engine.

alcan · January 2005

JG, how did you make out with the no-start? Was the link I sent you any use?

garycob · January 2005

I have a maxima '95 with 96k miles on it and now I have had problems for the last 2 month: The car is running perfect and then, without any light to check for code failure, it or stop running in a red light or stop sign or begin to stall at regular speed in the highway, always a great consume of gas and black smock is present in the emission (you can see it from the rear mirror), it resume to normal after a very short term, I went to a 2 separate shops and because of any light is present, the computer do not reflect the failure,in all the cases the car was running perfect and failure was not presented, can any body can help me please!!!

Mr_Shiftright · January 2005

Sounds like injector problems or sensors related to cold start. Black smoke and high fuel consumption certainly point to too much fuel being dumped in the engine for some reason.

This type of problem is bad ju-ju because you can destroy your catalytic converter this way and also dilute your engine oil with gasoline.

You need to get this squared away asap, as the consequences are worse than they appear in the symptoms IMO.

wendy673 · January 2005

I'm at my wits end with my Caravan. One morning it wouldn't turns all the way over-it tries to start but nothing. Things that has been checked-fuel, crankshaft sensor, camshaft sensor, put another ecm computer on it (thought that was the problem)..but NO it's not..still the same problems. The coil isn't getting spark-we've replaced the coil-nothing! So to re-cap--it's not the computer, fuel, fuses, sensors..could it be a relay? Something that's weird (to me) is that it doesn't have a shut-off rely and it looks like there has been one there at one point. Is there suppose to be?

edblu23 · January 2005

2001 Grand Caravan Sport. The passenger side window will not go down using either the driver side switch or the passenger side switch. I changed out the fuse under the hood and still have the same problem.

garycob · January 2005

Thank you, I forgot to tell that it always star ok and is no way to determine when it is going to fail again, the other day for ex. I was running very close to a friend shop and it begin to give me a hard time, time after time in every red light or stop sign, so I change my direction and went to the shop, just a block before I get there, it begin to work fine again, after that I had spend almost half hour running around the shop and it never fail again, so I did not make it, he tell me that if there is no "search engine" light, the computer do not tell a thing, and if it is no stalling or something it is hard to determine what it is not working. If there is and injector how can I test it, just take a look to sparkplug or what other suggestion?

Mr_Shiftright · January 2005

It's tough to test an injector if it's intermittent like that, but I suppose you could run some very strong injector cleaner and see what happens. Like BG44K or similar type. Your friend with the repair shop will know this stuff.

praks · January 2005

Hi,

I have an 01 Tribute and recently I noticed that the red light from the dash board for coolant is coming up. I checked the level of the coolant and it is still in Full. Have you heard of this problem? or what seems to be the problem? Please let me know...

Thank you very much,

Praks

driftracer · January 2005

is at the normal level, the first thing I'd check is the coolant level sensor, usually located near the bottom of the coolant reservior. A multimeter can tell you if it's working.

herbeapuce · January 2005

Hi

this car makes a lot of road and tire noise. beside changing tires, is there a cheap way to fix this a bit?

thanks

stef.

marsha7 · January 2005

but here goes...I need to raise my 2004 Crown Vic headights just a little...there apparently is no left-right adjustments, but you can raise and lower the beams (is this what they call cost-cutting?)...the adjustment screw is a small screw with a hex head that requires a 4 mm wrench... that's right, 4 millimeters...I have a 4 mm small socket, but the space is designed so that I can fit the socket on the end, but no room for the ratchet...what I need is either a 4 mm wrench, preferably a combo wrench with a six sided box on one end (12 sided might slip), or a 4 mm socket with flat surfaces ground onto the outside so a wrench could fit OVER the socket, and one could wrench the socket to tighten the screw...I hesitate to use a pliers or a visegrip, and it might slip and ruin the tiny hex head surfaces on the screw...my dilemma is that I cannot find any manufacturer who makes a 4 mm combo wrench, or small 4 mm sockets with the outer surface designed for a wrench...does anyone know of a source where I might buy such an item???

Mr_Shiftright · January 2005

5/32nd American size is pretty damn close.

Might try and scare one of those up.

chuck1ch · January 2005

I posted this on the Tribute/Escape problems forum too.

You have to replace the coolant overflow tank. This happened to me about six months ago. The level detector in the tank is failing, giving an intermittant low level alarm.



If you are mechanically inclined, order the tank from the dealer and install it yourself. Cost about $53. Took me 20-30 minutes. A couple of nuts hold the tank to the fender. There are two hose clamps and an electrical connection.



I undid the tank from the fender first then positioned it to catch the coolant, so it did not spill everywhere. You will see the coolant out of the tank is pretty nasty with alot of crud. I strained it thru cheese cloth before recycling it back in the tank or you can put some fresh stuff in.



The replacement tank included a new pressure cap too. Cannot just get a float. You don't want to get into ensuring a proper pressure seal if you were able to replace just the float.



Hope this helps.

alcan · January 2005

Is this what you're looking for?:

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item.asp?P65=&tool=all&ite- m_ID=4737&group_ID=529&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

joseph50 · January 2005

2001 Forester S. 51.5K miles.

I just got off spending two hours on the turnpike.

Around the 65 mph speed limit and a bit above I began to hear an irregular ticking (at first I thought it was my keys cluster hitting against the steering column - but the sound came from "deeper" in the instrument panel or engine compartment), interrupted by an intermittent metalic whirring sound. No sounds at lower speeds when I pulled through rest plazas.

Anyone have any clues?

Thanks!

blue_eyed_girl · January 2005

I have smoke coming from under my hood and when I turn my wheel to the left or right it makes a really weird noise. Any ideas?

andyman73 · January 2005

Noise could be powersteering pump failing. But more info certainly would be useful, such as make and model of vehicle, and engine and tranny types.

Mr_Shiftright · January 2005

I think your power steering belt is slipping and burning up. Get somebody to look under there and if the belt is "glazed" and shiny inside it is burning up from friction.

rickgs · January 2005

My four door Honda Civic 2000 has a knocking sound on the front passenger side when making tight right turns.

Took the car in today and dealership states brake pads are a worn down and drums need machining. This is being done but I am not convinced it will fix the knocking sound. I am wondering if it may be the CV joint or such and the dealership is not keen to replace because it may still be under warranty.

Any ideas on what may be causing the knocking sound? Is it the brakes?

Is it possible to get a second opinion on the car condition before the warranty ends? How would I go about doing this?

Thanks.

marsha7 · January 2005

Thank you, thank you, thank you...I do not know how you found that site, because I checked Snap-On, checked every possible item in multiple searches (except the right one, of course), and found nothing...that was exactly what I needed, 4mm hex box wrench...I am indebted to you for your search and your info...

Bob

andyman73 · January 2005

Is it a clunking noise, or more of a clicking? Clicking would be CV joints, clunking, possible suspension related.

You should be able to go to another Honda dealer for an inspection of your particular concern. Even an independant shop can do a looksee, to provide varification of your issue. That is just for the inspection, tho. Stick with the dealers for the actual warranty work. That way the dealers can't blame the independants for anything.

Also, keep going back before the warranty runs out, that way there is a record of attempts to repair under the warranty time frame.

Some others, such as Driftracer may have better/more indepth info for you.

Please post again with updates. I know Driftracer can provide you with guidance after that.

alcan · January 2005

No problem, that's why we're all here. Good luck with it.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

compresssion isn't great but a cylinder should fire and run okay at 100 lbs, but have you checked if the injector is working on that cylinder?

If you have compression, spark and fuel it MUST fire, even if badly...

dan bitman · February 2005

Hello Mr Shiftright,

I have a Camry 98, LE, 4 cyl bought almost new in 2000.

Since then, I am keep having a very annoying rattle on the right side,near the right front speaker.

I noticed the rattle is louder on winters, and generally the first miles, at low speed, when the car is still "cold". After warming up, rattle is not that loud , but still annoying on low speed, bumped road.

Went to a very good mechanic @ Midas , thinking that frt. rt strut/ suspension is at fault. But got negative!

I also hate to see the dealership disassemble the entire door panel for this, and charging hundreds.

Anyone else had this and know what the fix is?

I would really appreciated. Can reply directly to my e-mail varsity96@yahoo.com

Thank you!

Dan

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

Hi dan,

use our search feature to the left of this page and type in "camry rattles". We have an entire forum on this subject.

Also, we discourage people from posting their e-mails and i would suggest you delete your post after you've found the "rattles" forum; otherwise you might get tons of spam by posting a public address.

thank you

MrShiftright

Host

pajkeron · February 2005

Hello,

I own a 1989 MB 420 SEL with 176K miles.

One day I was traveling home and the car all of a sudden began blowing COLD air when the temp setting was for HEAT.

It was 10 Degrees F. outside and the car was full of antifreeze and did not overheat. The temp gauge was very steady near mid way on the gauge.

At times if I fooled with the switches and climate control, the thing would blow small amounts of warm air, nothing like it was just moments before.

WHen I got home, the next day, I started the car and let it warm up and the thing blew HOT air until i went to switch if from MAX heat to mid range setting. When I did this, the thing went back to blowing COLD air.

Does anyone have any suggestions as to what is wrong? and perhaps what part might be needing replaced?

John

adksboi · February 2005

I have a 2002 van with an odd noise nobody can track down. It sounds like a noisy moaning or whining power steering pump. It seems to be from the rear of the engine near the bellhousing and EGR valve. Heres what has been done to locate it:



Transmission shop thought it was a faulty converter (they just rebuilt the trans) so they installed another new one and the noise was still there.



They took out the trans again and tore it down, going over everything again and it all checked out ok. Put it back and noise still there.



They put a bell housing shell on and started it up and it still made the noise.



They then removed the serp belt and the damn noise was still there!



They were really great with me as they put 20+ hours into my van under warranty at no cost.



Took it to the ford dealer and they went over it for a few hours with a steth and tried to say it was the trans after I told them it made it without one! Then they just threw their hands up... They had never heard it before and couldn't pin point it... well worth the diag fee.



Anybody have any ideas or heard of this??? It is quite annoying and came on all the sudden. Does it at idle and it varies with engine speed. I just don't want to have something suddenly fail.



I did also just change the oil even though it didn't need it hoping for a stupid fix... no change



Thanks -Joel

fiskj7602@aol.com

alcan · February 2005

Might be a long shot but check the PCV valve.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

that's what I was going to say, but of course without hearing the noise it's pretty hard to guess...

Has anyone put a stethoscope on this?

rickgs · February 2005

Hi andyman73,

Dealership replaced the brakes, but the noise was still present. Took it back. They blew out some dust supposedly and now I can no longer hear any noises. Seems to be okay for now.

If I hear noises again, I will take it back.

Thanks.

adksboi · February 2005

I don't really trust mechanics anymore... which is why I do 99% of my own work.

I gave up and bought a stethoscope to give it my own going over. I pin pointed the noise to the area on the transmission where the shifter electronics attach. it took me less than 10 minutes! 20 hours... trans in and out and all that and they couldn't find it!? These guys have been great... but i'm going to try another aamco this week. I have a feeling they are just waiting for the warrantee to run out.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

John, I would say that whatever controls your heater valve--a vacuum servo or mechanical linkage or however it opens and closes in your particular car.

jbruce · February 2005

My wife and I purchased a new 2004 Kia Sorento in August 2004, and we have nothing but great things to say about our Sorento, except one. We currently have a problem with the smell of rotten eggs and a strong sulfer smell. The Kia Certified Technician told us to burn three full gas tanks of Chevron Supreme. That suggestion worked for a month. On our second visit they told us it's cosmoline, an oversease sealant to protect against salt water damage. Two other non-Kia technicians told us it was the catalytic converter. Has anyone had this problem? What was the solution?

We called the Kia consumer protection department and explained to them what happened, they called the dealership to confirm our story, then told us to keep trying the gas idea for another 30 days, and call them back if the smell hasn't gone away. I'm sure you can imagine the distrust and smell that has been left with us. We want the problem eliminated, not just the smell!

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

It's probably coming from the catalytic converter. Many people with many different types of cars complain about this. Basically the automakers says it the sulphur in our fuel and the oil companies say it's often a car that is running too rich (burning more fuel than the catalytic can process, or at least over-working it).

s1091 · February 2005

I have a '91 MB 560 SEL that needed (from the sound of the steering) power steering fluid added. I searched under the hood, and in the owner's manual, but couldn't find where to add it. My wife took it in for an oil change, and the repair slip said fluid was added, and sure enough, the steering's nice and quiet again. Where is the fluid added? This should be simple, and I feel like a moron!

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

The real question you should be asking is "Where did the fluid go?"

It's not consumable, so you have a leak somewhere that you need to track down before you burn out the pump or steering rack.

s1091 · February 2005

You're right, of course. But just in case the level drops again before I find the root of the problem, I still want to know where to add the fluid, just in case I need to buy myself some time.

Mr_Shiftright · February 2005

I guess what i'm saying is that you don't have any time. The cost to repair damaged items like that would ruin your day, your week, maybe your year.

If you locate the pump itself, on 99% of all cars the reservoir to refill it is just above the pump, either attached to it directly or in a metal or plastic reservoir attached to the pump by a short black hose. Often it is this little delivery hose that leaks or could have a bad clamp. This same thing just happened on my car.

doug9 · February 2005

I have a 2000 Toyota Tundra which all of a sudden started running rough like only on 7 cylinders. I read on the internet some postings that were similar, saying problems could be the 02 sensors.

I took it to a Toyota repair man. He is saying it is not the coil packs and not the O2 sensors but possible two burnt valves. I have talked to several people saying that is very very rare to have burnt valves on a Toyota. The mechanic said he swapped out possibly known good coil packs with the possible bad ones to determine they weren't the coil packs. Any suggestions?

And does TLC warranty cover the valves?

marsha7 · February 2005

I just received my 4 mm wrench today from Snap-On...tiny little thing, but fits the headlight nut only to perfection...thanks again...now I can go out and blind all the tractor trailer drivers and maybe a few 747 jet pilots...:):):):):)

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