well, if you just want out of the Honda, then you finally get an advantage of the lease. Hand them the keys, and walk away (oh, and the overage check too).
One way or another you have to make the final 2 payments. But, if you are also paying the mileage oveage, you have to do the math to see whether it pays to buy the sienna now, and just park the Odyssey for 2 months.
You will have a double payment, but what you are really doing is paying the new one off 2 months earlier (if you follow that logic).
That is, you will make the smae total lease payments + loan payments on the Sienna, but you will save not having to pay the mileage fees.
You can always trade the Odyssey in, and let the Toyota dealer take care of it. You still (somehow) will make the last 2 payments of course. And it doesn;t sound like you actually have any equity in the thing.
I want to use Cash for Clunkers to buy a Toyota Prius, but it seems about all the dealers have is boring white (eupehmism: blizzard pearl, with $220 tacked on for "special" color). The local dealer is pushing me to buy one of the white ones he has in stock, and acts like I can't pay now for something I'd like to special order. Is he just trying to manhandle me?
The Prius is hot right now and a specially ordered one can take months. Also the CFC program is only limited to 250k clunker vehicles.So you can wait for the ordered Prius ,but if in the meantime the quota of 250k is over and the bill is not renewed then you lose your chance to cash in on the program. There is no sale until you drive a new car off the dealer lot.You can give a refundable deposit and agree to buy the ordered car and then later back out if you change your mind and the dealer has no recourse.
Personally,I think if buyers custom order their cars,then there should be a non refundable deposit.Why?? If it`s a popular car like the Prius/Camry/Accord/Civic or the Genesis[ Jmonroe would be happy! :P ] with a popular color,then fine-the dealer can easily sell it.But if it`s a crazy color--like shocking pink,shiny purple or crazy green or if you order a $40k Ford/Dodge loaded SUV with a manual tranny--the dealer is stuck with it and it can cost him a lot of money .
Ideal situation-You agree on the price of a pre-ordered car--have it in writing-- and then pay a non-refundable deposit..That way if you back out,then atleast the dealer can reduce his losses.But that is in an ideal world! :shades: Just MHO.
Chrysler`s recent offer of 4500 cash rebate on almost all it`s 09 Dodge,Jeep,Chrysler with 3 or 4 exceptions in addition to the CFC`s has to be the greatest bargain in a long long time. So the buyer can get upto 4500 rebate+4500 CFC cash=9k off from a new car`s price.So say ,a Dodge car is 15k ,you can get it for only 15k-9k=6k. :P I guess this will really improve Chrysler sales and their inventory will be sold out .Plus u get the lifetime Dodge Powertrain warranty. [I guess you would need it] One great offer for the buyers.
Hell them and GM both can afford to offer all the rebates they want. Thats what happens when you run to uncle sam and ask him for a do-over on all your past mistakes.
Maybe I don't know all the facts, but chrysler is off my list. They closed plants near me and are building them in mexico and canada. After the bailout money -- not feeling particularly loyal. Don't know about ford and gm -- not in the market for 2+ years. Have no problem buying foreign if it's assembled here. Someone set me straight.
Chrysler always had plants here in Canada. In fact some are being closed here too, but not sure whether temporarily or permanently. I don't believe they're building any new ones here.
That just was a random number.So a 20k car can be had for 20k-9k=11k.That is still a substantial saving. And this 4500 rebate is for all Chryslers,,jeeps and Dodges-exceptions being Jeep Wrangler,Rubicon and Dodge Viper. So any person who trades in a clunker can get a really good deal now. Hurry!Only till supplies last! :shades:
No I don't work for Edmunds but I now work at Edmunds now. Knowing the basic of vehicle repair and up keep. I always took my truck in for regular tune ups and all. For this truck was my work truck my bread and butter. If it was down then I couldn't work so I did all I could to make sure it wouldn't put me down. So when the mechanic suggested the engine flushing I never had one but I he said it would help my truck run better and I would get better miliage. I felt the truck could use that it deserved it what's a little more money for better performance. He didn't explain the process or the possible damage to my engine to me.Til they called me to tell me my truck was ready for pick up. And within a hour they called me back to tell me that as they were driving my truck off the ramp out of the shop my oil pump went out and locked up my engine AND IT WOULD COST ME ABOUT $8000.00 to replace it. But bring $1033.00 and a tow truck to get my truck home til I decide what I was going to do. So now I work at Edmunds protesting daily for them to repair my truck.
I just started shopping websites, Edmunds, KBB, manufacturers, etc. I have filled out a couple of on line forms requesting info/prices. I have gotten back some general e mails and a call or two, but nothing about prices. They are usually something like "come on in", "when can you come in" "we have what you want". I am shopping a new RAV4 or possibly a CRV. I have several Toyota and Honda dealers within 25 minutes of me.
My question is, are a lot of these "internet sales" things just "come on" scams? No one sems to want to talk pricing.
Junior Damato, who writes a newspaper column about car repairs, recommends AGAINST engine flushes. I believe that any debris dislodged by the flush can clog up somewhere else. He does recommend tranny flushes.
Sounds like you need the BBB or some type of legal help now. Their procedure screwed you royally. Your mechanic may have had the best intentions, but they messed up your engine.
It is best to e-mail the dealers near you. In the e-mail, let them know you do not need a demo drive, spec out a specific car with the options and color you desire, and ask for the best "Out the door price". That should have the desired results.
Try carsdirect.com.The price you see is the price you pay.Select your vehicle,zip code and options you need and you get a target price which you pay +tax,title and license. That`s it..Simple and easy.You can avoid all the come on in ,we have -- type of thing. Just take that price to the dealer which Carsdirect.com asks you to go to and voila--Drive a new car with no hassle ,no pressure and no time wasting. Hope this helps.
My question is, are a lot of these "internet sales" things just "come on" scams? No one sems to want to talk pricing.
They're not scams. Nobody is going to give away their bottom line pricing if you haven't even decided on what car you want. Did you specifiy what model and options you want? Do you even know what model and options you want? Colors? If not, you're not at the stage of negotiating yet. It's good that you're shopping around, but "best price" should be the last thing to worry about. First find a vehicle you like.
You can get general ideas on MSRP pricing as well as any rebates or offers from the manufacturer's web sites.
Once you narrowed down the vehicles in your general price range, which it appears you have, go out and test drive the cars, touch them, smell them, fit your family in them. Check what trim levels and options are available. Check the colors that you like. It's pointless negotaiting on a vehicle you're not sure you'll like in person, or that you haven't even seen yet.
If you've done all this already and you know exactly what you want, then email your local dealers, and tell them you're ready to buy within a week or two (don't ask for best price if you're not buying within a month as offers change from month to month). Make sure you leave your full name, email, phone number and address. If you ask for quotes and remain anonymous, chances are you won't get much replies other than what you've gotten already. Get all the pricing. If you received good service from the dealer(s) you've visited in person, then give that saleperson an opportunity to match or beat the prices you've gotten, as they invested some time in you.
Once you find the price you like and if they do match it then buy the vehicle.
I was wondering how exactly cars.com works. Their website seems to lack a lot of details. For instance: 1. When do the dealers agree to sell at these prices? Just because a dealer agreed to sell a certain model at a certain price in January, doesn't mean their going to have that car equipped as I want in September when the next years cars are coming out, especially if I am looking for a leftover. 2. I live in a congested area. What if the dealer that agrees to sell at the cars.com price is 25-30 miles away from me? I am not interested in crossing bridges and maybe going to another state. I want a dealer within 10-12 miles tops, so I CAN return to that dealer for warranty work or service. Any ideas? Thank you!
Thanks Boomchek. You are right, I should do test drives. I really love my 2000 Nissan Pathfinder with the Bose, sunroof and leather, and hate to give it to my son as I don't know if I will like the new car as much. But it is time for a new car. I am not sure that I will like a CRV, Rav4 or Rogue, and I might be happier in a 4Runner or Pilot, even if it is preowned.
But I was specific in my e mails as to what models and packages I wanted (leather, sunroof), what I was flexible about (color, sound system. Maybe you are right in that no one wants to give up their bottom line pricing in an e mail.
I hesitate to go into a dealer because I don't want the hassles and pressures that I might encounter. But even more than that, I don't want to see something I like, buy it, and then find out I overpaid by a grand!
I did call the dealer today where I bought my wifes 2004 Sienna. I was looking for the same salesman. He was a class act,low key, respectful, polite. Alas, he no longer works there. Now some saleswoman who answered the phone has called me three times in the past four hours even though I told her I was just starting to look and am waiting on a withdrawl from a retirement plan that takes 60 days to get! I told her I didn't want to waste anyones time, and asked her to e mail me pricing, again with model, packages etc. that I want, but she just keeps calling!
I told her I was just starting to look and am waiting on a withdrawl from a retirement plan that takes 60 days to get! I told her I didn't want to waste anyones time, and asked her to e mail me pricing, again with model, packages etc. that I want, but she just keeps calling!
It sounds to me like you should rule out this salesperson. If you've told her your situation and she continues to ignore what you've told her then you should have eliminated one dealer from your search. It's starting to get easier already and you don't even know it.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
You're no fun boomchek -- talking sense in a car buying discussion. I'm convinced that only a small % of people posting in most threads are actually going to buy within a month or so. The satisfaction they derive is gained from the fantasy of pretending their going to spend 25-35K on transportation. They hem and haw re rebates and incentives. Do I buy now and risk seeing a lower price later? How much should I pay for this one or that one. What should I buy? By spinning around in this circle, they avoid facing real issues in their life. Kind of like going to the movies to escape reality for a while. I know this is true because I've been guilty of this behavior from time to time. I don't need to get on that road anymore because I have a 30 day pass on train xanax that gets renewed the first of each month.
So if you were specific as to what packages you wanted, then you must have had some ideas on general pricing. Leave the negotiations till the very end.
When you go to a a dealership, be straight up that you're going to buy within 2 weeks (or whatever your timeline is), and that right now you're seeing which cars on your list suit you the best. Tell the salesperson that once you're ready and if you like the vehicle they're selling, you'll contact them and talk pricing then. For now you're just driving and nothing more. And stick to that. Don't ask for best pricing, but ask what kind of inventory might be around in 2 months, and whether current offers and rebates will be around (highly unlikely).
The reason this saleslady is stalking you is because you told her two opposite things. On one hand I assume you're asking for her best pricing (which means you're buying NOW), but on the other hand you're telling her you're waiting two months to buy. Plus what would you really like her to email you? An email on all available models and options with pricing? That can all be found in a brochure, or online. Do you see where I'm getting at?
So she thinks why does this guy need all pricing now if he's not buying for two months? The deals will be different by then. I better stay in touch now, in case he's ready to make a move today.
It's like asking a woman to try on an engagement ring when you're not ready to propose. She'll get all excited when you're still deciding if she's the one.
But I see it all the time. First time shoppers. They would come on the lot and really have no clue as how to proceed, and right off the bat ask for "best price" on the first car they see, before even knowing what they want.
Or not wanting to participate and just give some kind of anonymous email asking to send your best deal for leasing and financing and cash on a (insert generic car name and model here).
Sure, that makes my job easier. Because there's only like a million pricing.finance.lease combination, let alone options out there on this vehicle, and I can read your mind and know exactly what you want. :confuse:
It`s not cars.com but Carsdirect.com. Totally different websites. For buying cars with no negotiation and least hassle -Carsdirect.com has a target price and that is the price you pay. A lot of Edmunds posters in the buying forums indicate that--if you have Carmax or Fitzmall in your area ,then for new cars these would absolutely be the best places for best prices with no haggling.If there is none,then Carsdirect.com is the best option. Hope this helps.
My mistake J, it as not the same woman calling three times, it was three different women from three different dealers. I was just hitting mute on my cell. I found out when I checked the messages later. Must be a lot of women selling cars these days. But again, no specifics, I e mailed one website that listed CPO Pilots at low prices. Their fine print said a $595 doumentation/make ready fee and must finance through the dealer for the advertised price. I told them I understood that they charged an extra $595, even though I think it's B.S. and they should just add the $595 to the price, but how much extra would I have to pay if I brought cash and didn't finance through them? Again, no appropriate response. I got a generic e mail and a phone message stating that she would do "whatever it took to get the deal done". WTF is wrong with these people? How do they expect to sell anything? Name a price, even if it's several hundred above their bottom line, at least that's a starting point. For everyone on the selling side who complains about how you don't bargain for a steak or a suit, how about this? They're supposedly selling something but won't tell me the price!
Del-That was just a typo on my part. I know they are different websites, and I am familiar with both, but the same questions apply:
1. How do I know the dealer that agrees to sell the car with the options I want will even have a car optioned like that in stock, especially at the end of the model year?
2. How do I know that the carsdirect. com will be anywhere remotely close to me, or a distance that I consider reasonable and convenient.
Neither one of these issues is addressed on the carsdirect wesite.
It hasn't had any results really. Just generic e mails and calls requesting that I come in. But admittedly, I have just started the process and only tried a couple of dealers.
One even had two new 2008 4Runners leftovers listed on their website. I joking told them that they were sitting there rusting and costing the dealership money. I asked if either had a sunroof or the upgraded JBL sound system, told them I would pay cash. I asked the price. Same crap about "come on down". If I needed a car mmediately I would be out there looking, as I usually have. But now I have lots of time and I am determined to get a great deal.
J and Boom-I can't really make it any clearer to the saleswoman. I told her a Rav4, either the Sport or LTD, I don't care which, as long as it has 4 WD, leather, and sunroof. I even gave her the package nmber for the leather/moonroof on the LTD.
I never asked her anything about leasing or financing. I told he straight up that I would bring my own fnancing, so as not to confuse the deal.
Funny thing is, this is the dealership I bought my Sienna at and I was treated great at that time. I even told them when I bought the Sienna in '04 that I could get 4.9% financing from Capitol One, and that's what I intended to do. They asked for the opportunity to run a credit check and then came back and offered me 4.3 from Toyota. I took their financing and eveyone was happy. What scares me now is the horror stoies about that same dealership on dealerrater.com Really scary. Full of bait and switch, selling customers to cars to later customers who offered more money, unauthorized credit checks, forged signatures on extended service plans. Yikes! It's like you gotta go in there armed and refuse to smile at them!
Answers to you queries: 1.After you option the car and get a target price, a carsdirect rep will call you and confirm your options.Then within a week ,mostly less than a week,they will call you and give you info about the dealership that has the specific car and the target price you got.So no upselling,no negotiating,no hassle.And it`s best you get your own financing. 2.The nearest carsdirect dealer could be 2 miles away or 75 miles away .The carsdirect rep will let u know this.And if you are driving 50 miles,again their is a confirmed car at that dealer for the carsdirect negotiated target price and thus no--come on in,bait and switch tactics. 3.Again if u have carmax or fitzmall near your place,then they are absolutely the best choices for buying new cars with very good prices,no hassle,no negotiations ,painless free purchase.
it as not the same woman calling three times, it was three different women from three different dealers.
Wow, you must be using that Edmunds Cologne that they are now offering to new members that pay their dues on time. They never offered that when I signed up here.
Must be a lot of women selling cars these days.
And you found your fair share, too.
Their fine print said a $595 doumentation/make ready fee and must finance through the dealer for the advertised price. I told them I understood that they charged an extra $595, even though I think it's B.S.
You ain’t been here long enough to start a fire storm like that. You’ll be in over your head, so just drop that stuff right now.
I got a generic e mail and a phone message stating that she would do "whatever it took to get the deal done".
I ain’t gonna touch that one.
Welcome to the world of car buying. Let us know how you do.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
I was just starting to look and am waiting on a withdrawl from a retirement plan that takes 60 days to get! I told her I didn't want to waste anyones time,
Why are you asking for prices now? Just like you said in a previous mail, the price now might not be available in 60 days when you actually want to buy. Listen to boomcheck. Use this time to pick a car. Go on test drives. Go on a weekday so you don't use up an up for a salesman during the weekend.
You mised my point. Don't you remember the storm a few months ago because he called a dealer to ask about doc fees? If you think there were a lot of posts because of a repainted hood, this was worse. :sick:
And with that, this line of conversation hits a dead end. Next subject, please.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
"...I don't think there'd be a $4500 rebate on a base model like a Caliber or a Jeep Patriot..."
When I picked up the wife's PT at the end of June the dealer already had "$4500 OFF" signs plastered on his in-stock Cruisers and had been advertising "up to" that amount off "select models" for a week.
I suspect that the conditions that come with that offer weigh more than the car does. However, if you are a horse riding, ex-military lease return and you are happy selecting from the two base models they have in stock, you could make a deal.
I think I'll call my Chrysler salesman up and tell him I changed my mind and want to return my car for one of those CFC specials. Just for laughs. :P
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
OK, I was gonna say "Nothing is over!" a la Rambo. But I'll let my rants about lack of e mail responses die. Seems I will have to buy the old fashioned way, as I always have, by wandering in expecting to be slaughtered, LOL. I did get an e mail from Toyota asking me if the dealer had followed up with me. I told them that it hadn't. Now, I have nothing but good things to report from most of the new car purchases I have made. A Toyota in '04, a Pontiac in '98 or '99, a Ford in '93. I did have an awkard experience when I went to make the final payment and pick up an '01 Pontiac. Seems the sales manager wouldn't approve the price of the Montana that I had worked out with the saleswoman. I ended up giving up the rebate, which was a grand or $1500 and taking their subsidized financing instead. I ripped up my e loan check and everyone was happy. I probably got screwed a little, but my wife was just getting over totalling our '98 or '99 Montana and she wanted another one. The car looked good and I wanted the deal done to appease my wife, so I didn't walk away. My question is, has anyone seen the dealerater website? Not sure if it's one "R" or two, dealerrater.com or dealerater.com. Full of horror stories. some happy customers on there, but some real horror stories. It's full of stories about lies, misrepresentations, bait and switch tactics. Salesmen and sales managers are frequently mentioned by name, including one woman and one man from Honda dealers by me. The stories about them, particularly the man, are disturbing. If I was them I would be afraid, very afraid, to go out after dark, particularly since the people that seem to complain the most are young women. I can just see someone's boyfriend taking batting practice on someones head. But like I said, I can't really complain, but I worked in law enforcement for the past twenty years until I recently retired. I was usually treated very well in all my business dealings with dealers. So, should I avoid a dealer with lots of negative feedback/stories? My Toyota dealer has a lot of poor reviews, but I was happy with them. I'll tell you, the stories on dealerrater are great to read, particularly if you have a sadisitic sense of humor, LOL.
My internet search turned up two Toyota dealers with older "new" 4Runners. One dealers website shows three new '07s and one '08. Another dealers website shows two new '08 4Runners. These are not fully loaded models with 40K sicker prices, but more basic models with just a few options. I guess they coud be demos, and never titled, and thus "new", but they are not listed as demos and show up on new inventory searches.
1. Is it just that they are gas guzzling SUVs? I don't see any Honda Pilots that old, and most Toyota dealers don't have anything new but '09s. Does having new cars this old say anything about the dealership or it's selling prices?
2. Any idea what kind of discount a buyer could expect on a "new" car that is soon to be two or three model years old?
Depreciation doesn't matter to me. I would expect to keep the car 6-7 years and then either pass it along to my sons, or sell it privately with the service records
You can rant about whatever else you wish. I was quelling the debate about other members' knowledge and/or credibility, neither of which are the subject of this discussion.
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name. 2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h) Review your vehicle
Our Dodge store is advertising two Calibers for under 15,000 and two more for just over 15,000. I am pretty sure all four have the bluetooth, autodiming mirror, heated seats package whatever that is called.
But I'll let my rants about lack of e mail responses die. Seems I will have to buy the old fashioned way
A few of us on here on Edmunds have been able to buy through the internet, my experience was like yours, the dealership didn't want to play ball. They pulled the, "Come on down... we'll do anything, but commit suicide", to make a deal. So, I developed the "Jipst Method of Internet Car Buying". So far, to the best of my knowledge, no one has used it. So, here's an opportunity for you, the new guy, to take one for the team. :surprise:
Go down to 3 or 4 dealerships that you are interested in buying a car from. If you don't wish to be disturbed, go on a Sunday afternoon when they are closed. Write down the VIN# and make and model of cars you are interested in. Then go back home, take a nap, then email this information into the dealerships internet dept. asking for their best price. This simple act of time investment on your part, shows the dealership you are a serious NOW buyer (even though you aren't), and that you are a buyer who knows what he wants. Also, write that you are pre-approved... the internet salesman will have $$$ flash before his eyes and give you that quote, I guarantee it !
I shopped for my last new car by faxing my offers to various dealerships. This worked out pretty well. I guess my strategy was to research so that my "offer" was fair to me and fair to them. I wasn't attempting to grind for every last nickel on the deal, but I think I got a pretty good deal anyway. They were happy, I was happy, and I did really well on resale two years later.
The dealer that responded quickly and who listened to me got the deal. We were done in an hour.
Comments
One way or another you have to make the final 2 payments. But, if you are also paying the mileage oveage, you have to do the math to see whether it pays to buy the sienna now, and just park the Odyssey for 2 months.
You will have a double payment, but what you are really doing is paying the new one off 2 months earlier (if you follow that logic).
That is, you will make the smae total lease payments + loan payments on the Sienna, but you will save not having to pay the mileage fees.
You can always trade the Odyssey in, and let the Toyota dealer take care of it. You still (somehow) will make the last 2 payments of course. And it doesn;t sound like you actually have any equity in the thing.
2020 Acura RDX tech SH-AWD, 2023 Maverick hybrid Lariat luxury package.
Yes, in a way he is because he's trying to get you to buy his dropped-off-the-truck repainted leftover.
Seriously, when you're not satisfied or comfortable with the way a transaction is going, walk away. Lots of car dealers out there.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Also the CFC program is only limited to 250k clunker vehicles.So you can wait for the ordered Prius ,but if in the meantime the quota of 250k is over and the bill is not renewed then you lose your chance to cash in on the program.
There is no sale until you drive a new car off the dealer lot.You can give a refundable deposit and agree to buy the ordered car and then later back out if you change your mind and the dealer has no recourse.
Personally,I think if buyers custom order their cars,then there should be a non refundable deposit.Why?? If it`s a popular car like the Prius/Camry/Accord/Civic or the Genesis[ Jmonroe would be happy! :P ] with a popular color,then fine-the dealer can easily sell it.But if it`s a crazy color--like shocking pink,shiny purple or crazy green or if you order a $40k Ford/Dodge loaded SUV with a manual tranny--the dealer is stuck with it and it can cost him a lot of money .
Ideal situation-You agree on the price of a pre-ordered car--have it in writing-- and then pay a non-refundable deposit..That way if you back out,then atleast the dealer can reduce his losses.But that is in an ideal world! :shades:
Just MHO.
So the buyer can get upto 4500 rebate+4500 CFC cash=9k off from a new car`s price.So say ,a Dodge car is 15k ,you can get it for only 15k-9k=6k. :P
I guess this will really improve Chrysler sales and their inventory will be sold out .Plus u get the lifetime Dodge Powertrain warranty.
One great offer for the buyers.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
And this 4500 rebate is for all Chryslers,,jeeps and Dodges-exceptions being Jeep Wrangler,Rubicon and Dodge Viper.
So any person who trades in a clunker can get a really good deal now.
Hurry!Only till supplies last! :shades:
I just checked jeep.com. For my zipcode in Sacramento, CA, both the Patriot and the Compass have $3500 rebate on top of the cash for clunkers.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
My question is, are a lot of these "internet sales" things just "come on" scams? No one sems to want to talk pricing.
Sounds like you need the BBB or some type of legal help now. Their procedure screwed you royally. Your mechanic may have had the best intentions, but they messed up your engine.
That`s it..Simple and easy.You can avoid all the come on in ,we have -- type of thing.
Just take that price to the dealer which Carsdirect.com asks you to go to and voila--Drive a new car with no hassle ,no pressure and no time wasting.
Hope this helps.
They're not scams. Nobody is going to give away their bottom line pricing if you haven't even decided on what car you want. Did you specifiy what model and options you want? Do you even know what model and options you want? Colors? If not, you're not at the stage of negotiating yet. It's good that you're shopping around, but "best price" should be the last thing to worry about. First find a vehicle you like.
You can get general ideas on MSRP pricing as well as any rebates or offers from the manufacturer's web sites.
Once you narrowed down the vehicles in your general price range, which it appears you have, go out and test drive the cars, touch them, smell them, fit your family in them. Check what trim levels and options are available. Check the colors that you like. It's pointless negotaiting on a vehicle you're not sure you'll like in person, or that you haven't even seen yet.
If you've done all this already and you know exactly what you want, then email your local dealers, and tell them you're ready to buy within a week or two (don't ask for best price if you're not buying within a month as offers change from month to month). Make sure you leave your full name, email, phone number and address. If you ask for quotes and remain anonymous, chances are you won't get much replies other than what you've gotten already. Get all the pricing. If you received good service from the dealer(s) you've visited in person, then give that saleperson an opportunity to match or beat the prices you've gotten, as they invested some time in you.
Once you find the price you like and if they do match it then buy the vehicle.
Good luck.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
1. When do the dealers agree to sell at these prices? Just because a dealer agreed to sell a certain model at a certain price in January, doesn't mean their going to have that car equipped as I want in September when the next years cars are coming out, especially if I am looking for a leftover.
2. I live in a congested area. What if the dealer that agrees to sell at the cars.com price is 25-30 miles away from me? I am not interested in crossing bridges and maybe going to another state. I want a dealer within 10-12 miles tops, so I CAN return to that dealer for warranty work or service.
Any ideas? Thank you!
But I was specific in my e mails as to what models and packages I wanted (leather, sunroof), what I was flexible about (color, sound system.
Maybe you are right in that no one wants to give up their bottom line pricing in an e mail.
I hesitate to go into a dealer because I don't want the hassles and pressures that I might encounter. But even more than that, I don't want to see something I like, buy it, and then find out I overpaid by a grand!
I did call the dealer today where I bought my wifes 2004 Sienna. I was looking for the same salesman. He was a class act,low key, respectful, polite. Alas, he no longer works there. Now some saleswoman who answered the phone has called me three times in the past four hours even though I told her I was just starting to look and am waiting on a withdrawl from a retirement plan that takes 60 days to get! I told her I didn't want to waste anyones time, and asked her to e mail me pricing, again with model, packages etc. that I want, but she just keeps calling!
It sounds to me like you should rule out this salesperson. If you've told her your situation and she continues to ignore what you've told her then you should have eliminated one dealer from your search. It's starting to get easier already and you don't even know it.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
When you go to a a dealership, be straight up that you're going to buy within 2 weeks (or whatever your timeline is), and that right now you're seeing which cars on your list suit you the best. Tell the salesperson that once you're ready and if you like the vehicle they're selling, you'll contact them and talk pricing then. For now you're just driving and nothing more. And stick to that. Don't ask for best pricing, but ask what kind of inventory might be around in 2 months, and whether current offers and rebates will be around (highly unlikely).
The reason this saleslady is stalking you is because you told her two opposite things. On one hand I assume you're asking for her best pricing (which means you're buying NOW), but on the other hand you're telling her you're waiting two months to buy. Plus what would you really like her to email you? An email on all available models and options with pricing? That can all be found in a brochure, or online. Do you see where I'm getting at?
So she thinks why does this guy need all pricing now if he's not buying for two months? The deals will be different by then. I better stay in touch now, in case he's ready to make a move today.
It's like asking a woman to try on an engagement ring when you're not ready to propose. She'll get all excited when you're still deciding if she's the one.
Good luck with your shopping.
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
But I see it all the time. First time shoppers. They would come on the lot and really have no clue as how to proceed, and right off the bat ask for "best price" on the first car they see, before even knowing what they want.
Or not wanting to participate and just give some kind of anonymous email asking to send your best deal for leasing and financing and cash on a (insert generic car name and model here).
Sure, that makes my job easier. Because there's only like a million pricing.finance.lease combination, let alone options out there on this vehicle, and I can read your mind and know exactly what you want. :confuse:
2016 Audi A7 3.0T S Line, 2021 Subaru WRX
For buying cars with no negotiation and least hassle -Carsdirect.com has a target price and that is the price you pay.
A lot of Edmunds posters in the buying forums indicate that--if you have Carmax or Fitzmall in your area ,then for new cars these would absolutely be the best places for best prices with no haggling.If there is none,then Carsdirect.com is the best option.
Hope this helps.
But again, no specifics, I e mailed one website that listed CPO Pilots at low prices. Their fine print said a $595 doumentation/make ready fee and must finance through the dealer for the advertised price. I told them I understood that they charged an extra $595, even though I think it's B.S. and they should just add the $595 to the price, but how much extra would I have to pay if I brought cash and didn't finance through them? Again, no appropriate response. I got a generic e mail and a phone message stating that she would do "whatever it took to get the deal done". WTF is wrong with these people? How do they expect to sell anything? Name a price, even if it's several hundred above their bottom line, at least that's a starting point. For everyone on the selling side who complains about how you don't bargain for a steak or a suit, how about this? They're supposedly selling something but won't tell me the price!
1. How do I know the dealer that agrees to sell the car with the options I want will even have a car optioned like that in stock, especially at the end of the model year?
2. How do I know that the carsdirect. com will be anywhere remotely close to me, or a distance that I consider reasonable and convenient.
Neither one of these issues is addressed on the carsdirect wesite.
One even had two new 2008 4Runners leftovers listed on their website. I joking told them that they were sitting there rusting and costing the dealership money. I asked if either had a sunroof or the upgraded JBL sound system, told them I would pay cash. I asked the price. Same crap about "come on down". If I needed a car mmediately I would be out there looking, as I usually have. But now I have lots of time and I am determined to get a great deal.
I never asked her anything about leasing or financing. I told he straight up that I would bring my own fnancing, so as not to confuse the deal.
Funny thing is, this is the dealership I bought my Sienna at and I was treated great at that time. I even told them when I bought the Sienna in '04 that I could get 4.9% financing from Capitol One, and that's what I intended to do. They asked for the opportunity to run a credit check and then came back and offered me 4.3 from Toyota. I took their financing and eveyone was happy. What scares me now is the horror stoies about that same dealership on dealerrater.com Really scary. Full of bait and switch, selling customers to cars to later customers who offered more money, unauthorized credit checks, forged signatures on extended service plans. Yikes! It's like you gotta go in there armed and refuse to smile at them!
1.After you option the car and get a target price, a carsdirect rep will call you and confirm your options.Then within a week ,mostly less than a week,they will call you and give you info about the dealership that has the specific car and the target price you got.So no upselling,no negotiating,no hassle.And it`s best you get your own financing.
2.The nearest carsdirect dealer could be 2 miles away or 75 miles away .The carsdirect rep will let u know this.And if you are driving 50 miles,again their is a confirmed car at that dealer for the carsdirect negotiated target price and thus no--come on in,bait and switch tactics.
3.Again if u have carmax or fitzmall near your place,then they are absolutely the best choices for buying new cars with very good prices,no hassle,no negotiations ,painless free purchase.
Wow, you must be using that Edmunds Cologne that they are now offering to new members that pay their dues on time. They never offered that when I signed up here.
Must be a lot of women selling cars these days.
And you found your fair share, too.
Their fine print said a $595 doumentation/make ready fee and must finance through the dealer for the advertised price. I told them I understood that they charged an extra $595, even though I think it's B.S.
You ain’t been here long enough to start a fire storm like that. You’ll be in over your head, so just drop that stuff right now.
I got a generic e mail and a phone message stating that she would do "whatever it took to get the deal done".
I ain’t gonna touch that one.
Welcome to the world of car buying. Let us know how you do.
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
Why are you asking for prices now? Just like you said in a previous mail, the price now might not be available in 60 days when you actually want to buy. Listen to boomcheck. Use this time to pick a car. Go on test drives. Go on a weekday so you don't use up an up for a salesman during the weekend.
Good luck.
Chuck,
Listen to him. He speaks from experience.
He does, but he also talks about stuff that he doesn't understand, so take it with a pinch of salt.
And what would that be?
jmonroe
'15 Genesis V8 with Ultimate Package and '18 Legacy Limited 6 cyl
That's a good point. In fact many one owner cars I see listed on autotrader are in fact rental cars. Carfax still claims they are worth $1500 more.
Go figure. :confuse:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
You mised my point. Don't you remember the storm a few months ago because he called a dealer to ask about doc fees? If you think there were a lot of posts because of a repainted hood, this was worse. :sick:
MODERATOR /ADMINISTRATOR
Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
When I picked up the wife's PT at the end of June the dealer already had "$4500 OFF" signs plastered on his in-stock Cruisers and had been advertising "up to" that amount off "select models" for a week.
I suspect that the conditions that come with that offer weigh more than the car does. However, if you are a horse riding, ex-military lease return and you are happy selecting from the two base models they have in stock, you could make a deal.
I think I'll call my Chrysler salesman up and tell him I changed my mind and want to return my car for one of those CFC specials. Just for laughs. :P
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
I've seen some base Calibers for under $16K.
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
Now, I have nothing but good things to report from most of the new car purchases I have made. A Toyota in '04, a Pontiac in '98 or '99, a Ford in '93. I did have an awkard experience when I went to make the final payment and pick up an '01 Pontiac. Seems the sales manager wouldn't approve the price of the Montana that I had worked out with the saleswoman. I ended up giving up the rebate, which was a grand or $1500 and taking their subsidized financing instead. I ripped up my e loan check and everyone was happy. I probably got screwed a little, but my wife was just getting over totalling our '98 or '99 Montana and she wanted another one. The car looked good and I wanted the deal done to appease my wife, so I didn't walk away.
My question is, has anyone seen the dealerater website? Not sure if it's one "R" or two, dealerrater.com or dealerater.com. Full of horror stories. some happy customers on there, but some real horror stories. It's full of stories about lies, misrepresentations, bait and switch tactics. Salesmen and sales managers are frequently mentioned by name, including one woman and one man from Honda dealers by me. The stories about them, particularly the man, are disturbing. If I was them I would be afraid, very afraid, to go out after dark, particularly since the people that seem to complain the most are young women. I can just see someone's boyfriend taking batting practice on someones head.
But like I said, I can't really complain, but I worked in law enforcement for the past twenty years until I recently retired. I was usually treated very well in all my business dealings with dealers.
So, should I avoid a dealer with lots of negative feedback/stories? My Toyota dealer has a lot of poor reviews, but I was happy with them. I'll tell you, the stories on dealerrater are great to read, particularly if you have a sadisitic sense of humor, LOL.
1. Is it just that they are gas guzzling SUVs? I don't see any Honda Pilots that old, and most Toyota dealers don't have anything new but '09s. Does having new cars this old say anything about the dealership or it's selling prices?
2. Any idea what kind of discount a buyer could expect on a "new" car that is soon to be two or three model years old?
Depreciation doesn't matter to me. I would expect to keep the car 6-7 years and then either pass it along to my sons, or sell it privately with the service records
If I'm correct, the host was referring to jmonroe's doc fee "discussion" which ended up more like a prison riot. :sick:
2019 Kia Soul+, 2015 Mustang GT, 2013 Ford F-150, 2000 Chrysler Sebring convertible
You can rant about whatever else you wish. I was quelling the debate about other members' knowledge and/or credibility, neither of which are the subject of this discussion.
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Find me at kirstie_h@edmunds.com - or send a private message by clicking on my name.
2015 Kia Soul, 2021 Subaru Forester (kirstie_h), 2024 GMC Sierra 1500 (mr. kirstie_h)
Review your vehicle
A few of us on here on Edmunds have been able to buy through the internet, my experience was like yours, the dealership didn't want to play ball. They pulled the, "Come on down... we'll do anything, but commit suicide", to make a deal. So, I developed the "Jipst Method of Internet Car Buying". So far, to the best of my knowledge, no one has used it. So, here's an opportunity for you, the new guy, to take one for the team. :surprise:
Go down to 3 or 4 dealerships that you are interested in buying a car from. If you don't wish to be disturbed, go on a Sunday afternoon when they are closed. Write down the VIN# and make and model of cars you are interested in. Then go back home, take a nap, then email this information into the dealerships internet dept. asking for their best price. This simple act of time investment on your part, shows the dealership you are a serious NOW buyer (even though you aren't), and that you are a buyer who knows what he wants. Also, write that you are pre-approved... the internet salesman will have $$$ flash before his eyes and give you that quote, I guarantee it !
The dealer that responded quickly and who listened to me got the deal. We were done in an hour.