Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
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A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
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Any Questions for a Car Dealer?
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rroyce: I'm trying to be open and honest with you here and trying to give you a chance to do the same.
dealer? Don't they have jackstands ? I bet
you will have a few bends in the unibody weld
creases. Inspect that car carefully before
taking it home.....Be NICE but assertive !
Good luck...............geo
So you got more for your car by selling it yourself. Thats whats supposed to happen. By admitting the buyer of your van did not do his "homework" sounds like you are also admitting you got more $$ than you would have from an informed buyer.
I may have missed something, but what point are you making here?
Was it a good one? I got an offer at about what I considered to be the value of my trade-in and I didn't seem to suffer on the price of the RX300. However, I was looking for a more expert opinion here.
I'm sorry for confusing things by talking about what I actually did.
Talk about dangerous!
; )
Mackabee
"clubbed him like a baby seal" ROFL...LOL...bwaahhahahaha
Ed
I did find out that Ideal USA was the exact name of the conversion.
Well, I do also have pictures but nobody here seems to be interested in people knowing that you can actually trade-in a car for KBB or NADA wholesale value so I don't see the value in showing them here. Its just not in their financial interest for people to know that.
There's no conspiracy here - dealers will offer only what they can expect to get at auction (or less), because that's where they're going to sell your car 99 times out of 100.
If you could possibly spare the time, please take out an invoice and then book it on one of the sites (although I love Edmunds for certain things, KBB car builder seems to be the most accurate - Hey Edmunds, why can't you make a configurator that knows that you can't get xxx if you get xxx and tell you like the KBB or Chrome Data one does???). Then please post what you find.
It's very discouraging to do all kinds of research and then have a number that is much lower than the actual invoice.
Thanks in advance!
I dont recall anyone on this board saying that it couldn't be done. If it's a hot vehicle, the stronger money it will command which may bring it near a value published in a KBB or NADA. I believe KBB words its trade quotes something along what it MAY be worth IF its in top condition, not what it IS worth.
"its just not in their financial interest for people to know that."
Its not in their financial interest to spend more money on your vehicle IF it can be had at an auction for less.
Store A has an item for $500. Right down the street store B has same item for $700.
Where would you buy?
BTW- I am not a dealer. However, as someone who has bought waaay too many new vehicles(that just about always involves a trade) The car guys here are telling it the way it is. In fact, most times the dealer ENCOURAGES me to sell on my own if I dont like the trade value quoted to me. I really dont think the dealers feelings are hurt if you choose not to offer your trade.
If you're talking about a Toyota, Chevy, or Nissan, I can give you a general idea of the real invoice numbers.
Ed
Thanks... Regards Vikd
I realize that the Manufacturer to Dealer charge is part of the invoice price of the car but since they really don't emphasize this in the car building process (and I'm talking from experience. I spent several months researching and building the '03 Tahoe I just picked up without ever noticing the "disclaimer" about the regional advertising - although I knew it would come up on the invoice.), like my original post said, it makes the consumer less sure about themselves when they get into the dealership.
The whole message I'm stating is: Consumers use these sites as a way to gain confidence in the intimidating negotiations process. It doesn't matter how much experience you have, if you go in there with different numbers than the dealer has, it puts the consumer at somewhat of a loss.
MSRP is $27,643, invoice on it is $25,157
hope this helps,
Ed
All the dealer can do is accept it or refuse it. If they accept it, then you have a nice car. If they refuse it, then you learned something.
We sell for a couple hundred over invoice and the customer keeps the rebate.
Of course today with freezing rain and sleet I would love to see somebody here today.
Freezing rain and sleet huh?...sounds like typical Northwest weather in late Jan but not this year...topped out at mid 50's and sun couple days ago and hasnt cooled down much since...
I wish you luck; freezing rain/sleet is about as bad as it gets...
Regards....Vikd
As you probably know, the past 2 years have not been happy ones for the energy industry (read: Enron, etc). Consequently, many energy-related sales people, engineers, traders, and such have become unemployed.
On several occasions during my car search I encountered ex-energy company professionals that had recently turned to selling BMWs and Audis. Being that I also happen to work for an energy firm (that is beginning to downsize), I have become curious what a person selling BMWs/Audis/M-Bs, etc. makes. I would imagine they're on salary + commission....just don't have a good idea of how much.
I realize that this is a loaded question with many factors involoved (location/cost of living, ability to sell, industry factors, etc). However, I figure if we get a dialogue going, we could get an ballpark idea.
Assume no auto sales experience, but a very strong knowledge of product (most of the time I was telling salesmen about their cars and rumors of future models). Also a bachelor's degree from a well regarded university. 3-5 years professional experience.
Any ideas?
So I was wondering, is the negotiation of the price still open? Or is it set from when I ordered it. Any help will be greatly appreciated!
The document you signed is legally binding and the only way you can get out of it is to sacrifice your deposit. You would not want the dealer to back out of their end of the contract would you? What if your car came in and they sold it to someone else?
Can you get a deal at another dealer that is less than your agreed price minus your deposit? If not, you better stick to what you have.
I've seen a lot of pics of the 04 Maxima, and I think the 03 is a nicer car. Of course, perceptions usually change when you see them in person.
Ed
Let's turn this around...
Suppose your car finally arrives but another customer shows up who likes it and is willing to pay more than you agreed to?
Would you be upset if they sold it out from under you?
The thing I like about it , is that you get both .
Rates for the Maxima are .9% up to 36 months and 2.9 for 48 and 60 months.
No rebates or incentives for Altima's but they do have .9 up to 36 and 3.9 for 48 and 60 months.
This will probably continue until your car gets there.
Based on the 2002's it may get up to 1000.00 plus the finace rates.
If you are a recent college grad you could qualify for a additional 500.
No, big-O agreed with isell. isellhondas' take on such things has been known for several years here.
I think there is more common ground among most people than we realize, and if they just take the time to talk about it sanely, they will find it.
I hope we can all agree that those are good things to follow. However, we may disagree about what is common sense and business ethics sometimes but hopefully we do it without losing our sanity as alfox suggests. Sometimes you just have to agree to disagree.
Ed
I guess by your statement you don't value your time enough to not want to waste time "learning" that they are two different numbers.
Thanks and good info as always!
Regards... Vikd
Take that amount and add 2.5% delivery fee.
Add 540 destination and 500 ad fee.
Subtract the 1000.00 rebate and that will be your amount.
I am in the market for a one/two yr old mid luxo sedan with a budget of about 20k, but if I could a brand new Max... hhmmm???
Regards... Vikd
The advertizing fees could be one of the big things that differ from Edmunds numbers. The ones set by the manufactor seem to not be negotiable. The dealer or regional ones????
I've been poking around on Ford Ranger pickup numbers for some months. And here are some other things that could change the number.
One is when the vehicle was built. Ford seems to change it's charges around a lot. Right now they are giving A/C away, with a full list price credit on the sticker. There is another option also done this way. And, they make some options 'required' when combined with other ones. So, Edmunds give you 'current' charges, but the vehicle you are buying could have set on the lot for months, with differing charges at its build time. And the dealer pays the build date price, and this is what he will price from.
There are other options, the exact same option name, that appear to have different prices based on the 'region' you are in. Some of these are the 'credit' charges, lower prices on options. I have no idea what Ford sales region I am in, so this is very confusing. And yes, this is Ford's online pricing, and yes they also ask for my zip code. But a certain option can still come up with multiple 'region' differences. This is on the 'build your truck' screens....
They are making it tougher for us people to know the 'invoice' price.
P.S. I'll probably just keep my 94 Ranger, there isn't a lot of difference in it and the new ones.
mney6 - yes, I do hope that Nissan will have a nice customer cash in March. That I know I will be entitled to.
That's the key. Did you sign a contract with that phrase in it? Was the price stated on the contract?
One thing I've never understood. Edmunds, for example, is able to compile data on vehicles sold nationwide to get their TMV figures. But they can't keep track of manufacturers regional advertising charges?
Ed
Could that be a possible motivation or am I out in left field?