I want to accumulate a data base on all S owners that have had problems with their Superchargers (excessive smoke at startup and excessive oil consumption). Mazda has apparently not solved the problem, atleast as of January 1999 when the fifth part number was introduced for the Lysholm Compressor. Email me at bob@zawarski.com Include your name and VIN number and any problems you have had.
herndons - weellll...hmmm... I do not knwo what to say, but you got what a lot of people would like to know about their car - the previous owners history.
YOu need to get that CPU worked out, but you can easily check this with Mazda. Call Mazda directly and talk to one of their Customer Reps and get the number for their tech department. Read them that # on your CPU and give them your VIN# and let them tell you if there were two types of CPUs for that year. I find this hard to believe as the costs would be outrageous for Mazda to make two different CPUs.
To update you on our 95 V6L - we are having the head liner replaced tomorrow and then we will be selling the car. Depending on how much you owe, you might want to consider as well.
If you get that idle fixed, imagine what you can sell it for - considering that you were the one who paid for it last in the condition you saw it in (rough idle = lower cost from dealer?).
I just purchased a gold 96 Mazda Millenia. It has only 38,000 miles on it. I got a 4 year bumper to bumper comprehensive warranty on it. Is this a good deal?
Does anyone have any measurable results with the use of Redline Transmission Fluid? I own a 2000 Millenia S, and have not experienced any adverse problems thus far; however, I do agree that the transmissions shifts "rough" for a lack of a better word, at random situations; which is especially noticeable at parking lot speeds.
I have abstained from the use of Redline because I have heard that it is merely a hyper-lubricant that can promote pre-mature transmission wear; similiar to the affects of Duralube and the like. Any info regarding this matter would be appreciated.
J&J, $14000 is good deal for a '96 with a low mileage. Good thing you didn't get the '95, which has more problem (first year model kinda problem). Enjoy the car and keep us posted on how you like the car.
I posted a while ago that my 99 millenia was having problems starting (and idled rough) after I would let the car run for a minute or two a day or so earlier. Recently, I started the car up for a minute to move it in the garage, and when I started it up two days later it idled rough and the enigine light came on. Took it to dealer and replaced distributor cap under warranty since computer noted a missfire in one of the cylinders. Dealer then said (with a straight face) "fuel injected cars are not supposed to be run for short periods like I was doing". Does that sound real or like a lame excuse for a crappy fuel/ignition system?
"I have abstained from the use of Redline because I have heard that it is merely a hyper-lubricant that can promote pre-mature transmission wear; similiar to the affects of Duralube and the like. Any info regarding this matter would be appreciated."
AC - that is a load of crap. I have been using Redline now since 1994 and have had no pre-mature tranny wear - especially on my Supercharged Miata. Redline would be fine as far as I know in the tranny - we have been using it in our 95L now for some time. You can also email Redline directly and tell them the rumors you have been hearing and get a straight answer from them.
Also, Redline is highly established in the racing community and they are no viewed as a "snake-oil-lube" additive for your tranny.
I bought a 98 Millenia in March, 2000 and paid $17,800 for it. It had 55,000 miles but I LOVED the way it drove--and still do. It's been my MOST favorite car of all that I've owned--including a new Toyota Camry and I still love it--even though it's been in the shop six or seven times with an engine light problem that cannot seem to be resolved. It usually runs fine--even with the engine light on--but lately the transmission has begun slipping. I had it in again last week and (for $369.00 more), it was repaired for six days! The car now has 68,000 miles on it and the engine light is back on. I'm ready to drive it off a cliff. Has anyone experienced the engine light problem? The dealership tells me it's the electronic emission device that has 400 parts and each one can go out individually--so the problem might be fixed today but that's not to say that another of the 399 parts won't "go out tomorrow." What should I do? (I bought an extended warranty) but of course it only covers engine repair they tell me--doesn't cover my problem.)
If anyone has any helpful advice--I'd really appreciate an e-mail: carolwrd@aol.com
Mazda_nut, well that's good to hear. However, what have your results been with its use on your Millenia? Does the transimission shift more responsively now?
Does anyone know if it's possible for the Check Engine Light to be "ON" for 5~10 days, and then went "OFF" by itself without resetting the computer or do anything to fix it??? Or is it just pure "LUCK"!!! Thanks : )
PS. It's for a 95 Millenia S, previously scanned the codes to be P0170 & P0173 (Fuel trim malfunction Bank1 & 2).
The codes are still stored in the ECM. The problem may or may not exist anymore. Disconnect the battery (ALWAYS remove the Negative pole First [no need to remove Positive Pole]) for about ten minutes to clear the code. DO NOT DO this if your radio has been coded by you or a previous owner (most Mazda Dealers have no idea of how to clear the Radio Code), unless you know the Radio Code. Reconnect the battery, if check engine light comes on the problem persists.
My engine light went on and stayed on for days and then went off (just as I was explaining to the dealer what happened). He said that the light is programmed to only stay on for a certain amount of startups--and it does not mean the problem has gone away.
Mazda_nut, You must have misunderstood my inquiry. I'm not experiencing any type of transmission problem/s that go beyond the characteristics of the Millenia's transmission! (it's a 2000 S!!) It'd just be ideal if there were some type of lubricant available to enable the Millenia's transmission to shift/operate more like an Acura TL's or the like.......
Then you might want to buy an Acura TL - The Millenia tranny is kind of wishy-washy in many ways and you are experiencing some of that now - according to your post.
Hello to all fellow Millenia owners. I'm new to this message board, but not new to the Millenia. I have a '95 that I bought brand new(going on 6 years) and it has been a joy(most of it). I do have a question to anyone with a 95-96. Has anyone experienced cracks in the wood trim around the radio console and if so what have you done to fix it? The dealer tells me the wood trim alone cannot be replaced, the entire bezel must be and with a hefty price tag of around $400 I'm looking at other options that will keep a near perfect stock look(most aftermarket kits either come with the complete multi-piece set or do not look real).
I'm considering buying a 1998 Millenia and have noticed a large number of owners reporting some serious problems. Is this typical or just a few lemons mixed in the bunch? I plan on picking this black beauty up tomorrow and was hoping on some feedback soon. Thanks!!!!
robert107 - Robert, do what I did - I bought a really nice wood kit off ebay (or any dash company in your area makes them) for $100 and you get more wood for your interior at 1/4 the cost you were quoted.
The wood you have that is cracked is actually plastic that looks like wood. I bought the real wood kit and it goes right over the plastic one and looks so much better.
Brian122, most of the problem people encounter is with the '95 Millenia, which is the first year model for the car. If you search through this forum, you won't find many complaints with owner of Millenia from '96 and newer. I have a 2000 Millenia S, with 22000miles on it, so far it's been almost flawless, except for some minor problem that the dealer fix for free under warranty. Which model are you planning to get? also, if I may ask, how much are they asking for it?.
I'd consider the 2002 TL Type-S for what it's worth; My Mil-S, simply demonstrates the global characteristics of the transimission. While I notice them more at parking lot speeds on a random basis; I believe yours and the others whom are/may be experiencing transmission erradicacies is more related to aging/wear and tear especially if it's a '98 model year or earlier.
I located additional information about the Redline Products, you are basically correct along the lines of it not being, snake oil lube, and that it is highly endorsed by racing enthusiates/companies; however, the product description clearly stated that performance results are not measurable....... I really doubt, there's a miracle fluid available for the mil's transmission.
Hello A little update. The car is at the dealership now and is getting looked at. The bad news is that there are no engine codes to lead us in the right direction for the rough idle. Also, on the way to the dealership, I smelled burned oil coming through the vent. Here is the low down.
1) The valve cover gaskets are leaking all over the spark plugs and tubes. This is what is causing the burnt oil smell and possible rough idle. Apparently, 2.5s are notorious for this so for those with the oil smell, change the valve cover gaskets. They want to charge $460 for parts and labor at a 4 hour labor rate. That adds to $240 for labor and $220 for valve cover gaskets?? $220? I can get Fel Pros for $100 a set. Man!!
2) And then they want to charge $80 to replace the thermostat!! I can do it for $7 bucks! Man, these guys are a rip. Since I'm not paying for it, (the used car dealership is picking up the tab) I'm not going to make a big fuss. I normally do all my work myself, happened to be ASE certified in parts (sold parts for 4 years while in college). I knew that these guys charge alot but damn!
Also, somebody correct me if I am wrong. 95 was not the first year for Millenias. I believe the Millenia debuted in Japan in 1993. What changes needed to be made for US import, I'm not sure.
Robert107 - try going to http://www.woodtrim.com/ they sell aftermarket and OEM wood kits for 95 and up Millenias. I purchased additional wood for my '00 Millenia's a/c vents however, I had to purchase the entire kit as they do not sell seperate pieces. (nor did any other vendor I contacted) The kit cost me $280.00USD an was an exact match. However thier is a possibility that you can purchase the kit a lot cheaper from a brick/mortar automotive performance/accessories shop; however woodkits are generally somewhat expensive for what they are worth! It's also a good idea to purchase from a brick/mortar vendor in the event that you are not comfortable dealing with ebusinesses for purchases.
Try the Ebay thing, if all else fails, oh yeah, the woodkit around the central console should/can move removed, without to much difficulties, it should only require patience and effort in trying not to scuff the surrounding dash when prying it out.
Hi all, I just found out what do those code that I'm experiencing means (P0170 & P0173 Fuel trim malfunction Bank 1 & 2) from another MAZDA dealer service manager. He told me it's because I didn't tighten my gas cap (at least 3 clicks) and I drove my car with the cap loose. Can you beleive that? As simple as the gas cap can cause your check engine light to come ON.
*NOW, another problem, I'm noticing that there is a cloud of white smokes coming out from under the hood right after I start my car in the morning (plus white smoke from the muffler). What could be the problem that's causing the white smoke coming out of hood??? HELP! THANKS
herdons - I just did mine - the valve cover gaskets ran me $50 tops. The labor was $300 as I assisted my Mazda mechanic on my day off - wanted to see why it was such a pain to do - IT IS A PAIN to get under there.
Yes, oil will leak down on your manifold as well and burn for that nice morning smell of 10w30 with your coffee.
$460 is a decent price - have them replace your manifold gaskets as well while there. They ran me about $18 for those.
1) The valve cover gaskets are leaking all over the spark plugs and tubes. This is what is causing the burnt oil smell and possible rough idle. Apparently, 2.5s are notorious for this so for those with the oil smell, change the valve cover gaskets. They want to charge $460 for parts and labor at a 4 hour labor rate. That adds to $240 for labor and $220 for valve cover gaskets?? $220? I can get Fel Pros for $100 a set. Man!!
Hey everyone, it's been awhile since I last posted here. I have a '95 S with 116,000 miles and earlier this year the climate control fan started to tick-tick-tick-tick at certain low speeds. It becomes less intrusive the longer I drive. Is there a way I can grease the fan to stop the noise rather than $pringing for a new one?
I'm kinda surprised at the recent posts about the older Millenias. Yes, I dread the costs of tune-ups but my car is not nearly as problematic as many of yours. CU has long given the Millenia very good reliability ratings. I guess most '95 and '96 Millenia owners have few troubles and thus don't need to post in this forum.
Had mine replaced about 2 months ago (thank god for extended warranty). There's a cable / cord in the antenna which can "detach" or break, which then requires replacement of the whole unit. This is the reason why it makes a pretty weird sound like gears not catching. If you have extended warranty should be able to "con" them that its not wear and tear. Besides, a good excuse to get a shiny new antenna.
On the 2.5 liter engine . . . I can't remember or haven't read that the old 626 or MX-6 engines as having the same problems with leaky gaskets as the Millenia . . .
Got my car serviced (110k km's) . . . Brake pads (about AUD$150 each for two) Front CV joint (AUD$400) - if you think the engine layout is bad . . . wait till you hear the mechanics swear when they try to get this one out.
I went to the San Dingo auto show over the weekend, and saw the new Millenia in person. They finally got the console correct, also included electric lock controls for the front passenger. The buttons on the dash seemed cheaper because the lettering has a "painted on" look. I still think the earlier front ends look better.
After 17,000 miles, I am ready (I mean overdue) to replace the tires. I want to keep the same size, but want some more tread life. Any suggestions?
ecaf - check to make sure none of the wiring looms are in the way. Also before you run your car, tug a bit on each fan to see if there is any play - there should be none.
Sounds like something is hitting the fan blades - we had the same thing as well.
You said "each fan". You mean there's more than one?? I spotted the noise-making fan under the glove box on the passenger side. It seems that a squarish plastic box contains the fan. Presumably all the wiring looms are outside this box. Can I just open the box and grease the fan? Thanx for the help.
Two questions for all you fellow Millenia lovers, and haters. The chrome rims that came on the original Millenia S (not the 5 stars, the spoked kind), were they 16 or 17 inch ? If 17 how could I go about finding those for my 95 S. Right now I have the 16 inch alloy which are cool but the chrome does so much for the appearance. I'd like to have the 17 inch of that old version. Thanks in advance to all those who reply.
Prior to 1999, the base Millenia had 15 inch rims, and the S had 16 inch rims. In 1999, the base came with 16 inch rims, and the S with the 17 inch "5 star" rim. The rim you want would have been on a 1996?-1998 Millena (16 inch rims). I think those rims were also available on the L models also.
I am the proud owner of a 97 Mazda Millenia S. I have owned it for two years now and am fond of it. However, I have outgrown the stock 210 horsepower and torque. I have searched high and low for parts and can only find few (vented brake disks, smaller pulley for supercharger, fuel pressure regulator, intake, and exhause). I need other parts like cams and pistons, headers, catalyc converter and the like. I want dependable horsepower but the car must be able to pass emissions inspection here in NYC. Has anyone done anything to their Millenia? All help would be greatly appreciated. Please forward all responses to supranyc@aol.com. Thanks in advance.
I did this myself for $150. It is not an extremely difficult thing to do, but we had a car lift which made everything more accessible. I would not pay somebody $400-500 to do this job. The harvest part was getting the old shaft out of the wheel hubs. The passenger side needed to be heated and use a gear puller. The front end is smoother, but I still seem to have the tire rumbling noise. It drives me nuts, since I've never had a car make this much front end noise.
I wish Mazda would do some more advertising on the Millenia...to date...these are the cars people have mistaken my 99 Millenia for 1) Lexus ES300 - I get this the most often...this is understandable b/c I have the two-tone paint. 2) Acura - Also have had this more than once 3) Chrysler Sebring 4) "One of those new dodges" 5) Oldsmobile...hmm where did that come from? 6) Mercury Cougar 7) Infiniti I30...well since they stole the taillights off the Millenia I can understand this. 8) Mazda 929...get this often too...amazing how many people don't realize the 929 died years ago.
Usually when I get these off the wall remarks...I explain the whole Mazda/Amati story about the car and try to educate these confused people.
I've been considering several car models, and the two choices I am considering are: Honda Accord/Mazda Millenia. I found a 98 Millenia model with 64,735 miles for $15,951. Is this a good deal? Also, have any of you had any major problems with this model year or any Accords '99 and up? If so, I would appreciate any help you could give me in making the right car decision.
Well The car is fixed. The culprit of the crappy idle was due to vacuum lines being hooked up incorrectly when the replacement engine was installed. After the valve cover gasket replacement, thermostat replacement and vacuum line fix, we are back to normal. I hope this is my last post on this forum. Good luck too all out there with Millenias! And thanks to all the responses!!!!
Hi there, It's time for me to replace both front axles - they're making a serious clicking noise and the boot/plastic cover cracked (I'm non-technical, so bear with me please). My car has 129K miles on it, so perhaps it's time.
In any case, my shop told me that if it was built 10/94 or earlier (mine was 10/94) they don't make the axles anymore, and they'd need to be sent out and rebuilt. He said 11/94 and later are fine. Oh well. The prices he quoted were 294.20 (w/ labor) per side on the rebuilt, and 237.76 had I not needed the rebuilt ones. Has anybody had this done? Does this seem like a fair price?
Secondly, I've got the annoying check-engine light problem that plagues so many of us. I've read through a number of posts, and got excited when I saw that something as simple as a gas cap that wasn't "clicked" three times could cause it. I ran down, clicked it 5 times, and the rat-[non-permissible content removed] still came on.
In any case, I've read some posts where people say the 02 sensors could be bad, and this could cause occasional sluggishness (YES) and degraded mileage (I get about 300 miles before my gas light comes on - and I drive about 30 miles per day, most of it freeway). My question is about the aftermarket ones. The guy at the shop said that some of them don't fit correctly, or need to be rigged to fit - and may not be specific for the car. Anybody here have personal experience w/ them? Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Banker - sorry to hear about your woes - I was just in your boat with my 95. Front CV's are cheaper if rebuilt - they are like $800 new from Mazda. Obviously in your case, you need to go with rebuilt ones. We had ours done for about $350 in the front. Your price seems good to me. You can drive on them for awhile - but not too long.
And yes, *if* is is the O2 sensors, you can go with aftermarket ones. They all /fit/ per se as they are usually the correct thread size - you just need to find out which wires go to which - super easy to do. Your mechanic should KNOW this. Two of them have 4 wires and the other two have 3 wires. I replaced one with a Mazda one for $120! Ouch - but I wanted a Mazda one for the back. I will be ordering my generics in a few days and post my results soon.
Hello I am getting ready to replace the rear rotors and pads on my Millenia. I had a question:
-Do the rear calipers on this Mazda work like most rear calipers utilizing a parking brake? Meaning, in order to push the piston in, do I need the special tool with 2 teeth to spin the piston back into the caliper to get the clearance needed to get around the new rotor?
I've done many brakes before in the past so I'll know as soon as I pop the caliper. I'm just trying to get an idea and gather up the correct tools before I jump in!
I need to adjust the vertical and horizontal headlights levels on my 1995 MilleniaS. The maintenance book refers this job to dealers only, with no guidance. Have anybody done this job before hence knows exactly which knobs or screws to turn? Would appreciate some help and tips before getting myself into trouble. Thanks.
The Millenia uses a drum brake for parking and the drum is part of the disk a better setup then many cheaper cars. Pistons can be retracted with a simple clamp just as in the front.
I replaced the battery in my 2.5L 98 Millenia. In doing so, I had a heck of a time removing the battery cover, and was unable to replace it. I noticed that air from the grill is vented back to the cover...I assume to keep the battery cool. Since I have never seen such venting of air onto the battery in my previous cars, my questions for the group are:
1) Is this indeed used to cool the battery? If so why? 2) Am I risking serious trouble to the new battery/car without the plastic hood to divert the air? 3) How the heck do I replace it? It seems a wiring harness from the fuse box is SO close to where the hood fits on the air channel that I can't get it back on. What is the standard procedure for replacing the battry in the 98 2.5 MILL?
Comments
(excessive smoke at startup and excessive oil consumption). Mazda has apparently not solved the problem, atleast as of January 1999 when the fifth part number was introduced for the Lysholm Compressor. Email me at bob@zawarski.com Include your name and VIN number and any problems you have had.
YOu need to get that CPU worked out, but you can easily check this with Mazda. Call Mazda directly and talk to one of their Customer Reps and get the number for their tech department. Read them that # on your CPU and give them your VIN# and let them tell you if there were two types of CPUs for that year. I find this hard to believe as the costs would be outrageous for Mazda to make two different CPUs.
To update you on our 95 V6L - we are having the head liner replaced tomorrow and then we will be selling the car. Depending on how much you owe, you might want to consider as well.
If you get that idle fixed, imagine what you can sell it for - considering that you were the one who paid for it last in the condition you saw it in (rough idle = lower cost from dealer?).
Keep us posted and buy a BMW.
-Peter and the Millenia and Miata
I have abstained from the use of Redline because I have heard that it is merely a hyper-lubricant that can promote pre-mature transmission wear; similiar to the affects of Duralube and the like. Any info regarding this matter would be appreciated.
Regards,
AC
cheers
Recently, I started the car up for a minute to move it in the garage, and when I started it up two days later it idled rough and the enigine light came on. Took it to dealer and replaced distributor cap under warranty since computer noted a missfire in one of the cylinders. Dealer then said (with a straight face) "fuel injected cars are not supposed to be run for short periods like I was doing".
Does that sound real or like a lame excuse for a crappy fuel/ignition system?
AC - that is a load of crap. I have been using Redline now since 1994 and have had no pre-mature tranny wear - especially on my Supercharged Miata. Redline would be fine as far as I know in the tranny - we have been using it in our 95L now for some time. You can also email Redline directly and tell them the rumors you have been hearing and get a straight answer from them.
Also, Redline is highly established in the racing community and they are no viewed as a "snake-oil-lube" additive for your tranny.
Hope this clears it up - kinda.
-Peter
(I bought an extended warranty) but of course it only covers engine repair they tell me--doesn't cover my problem.)
If anyone has any helpful advice--I'd really appreciate an e-mail: carolwrd@aol.com
Thanks!
PS. It's for a 95 Millenia S, previously scanned the codes to be P0170 & P0173 (Fuel trim malfunction Bank1 & 2).
coded by you or a previous owner (most Mazda Dealers have no idea of how to clear the Radio Code), unless you know the Radio Code.
Reconnect the battery, if check engine light comes
on the problem persists.
HELP PLEASE!!!
There is one for sale right now at: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/aw-cgi/ebayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=558617903&r=0&t=0
They make them for any year car.
The wood you have that is cracked is actually plastic that looks like wood. I bought the real wood kit and it goes right over the plastic one and looks so much better.
Just an option for you.
-Peter
cheers
I located additional information about the Redline Products, you are basically correct along the lines of it not being, snake oil lube, and that it is highly endorsed by racing enthusiates/companies; however, the product description clearly stated that performance results are not measurable....... I really doubt,
there's a miracle fluid available for the mil's transmission.
A little update. The car is at the dealership now and is getting looked at. The bad news is that there are no engine codes to lead us in the right direction for the rough idle. Also, on the way to the dealership, I smelled burned oil coming through the vent. Here is the low down.
1) The valve cover gaskets are leaking all over the spark plugs and tubes. This is what is causing the burnt oil smell and possible rough idle. Apparently, 2.5s are notorious for this so for those with the oil smell, change the valve cover gaskets. They want to charge $460 for parts and labor at a 4 hour labor rate. That adds to $240 for labor and $220 for valve cover gaskets?? $220? I can get Fel Pros for $100 a set. Man!!
2) And then they want to charge $80 to replace the thermostat!! I can do it for $7 bucks! Man, these guys are a rip.
Since I'm not paying for it, (the used car dealership is picking up the tab) I'm not going to make a big fuss. I normally do all my work myself, happened to be ASE certified in parts (sold parts for 4 years while in college). I knew that these guys charge alot but damn!
Also, somebody correct me if I am wrong. 95 was not the first year for Millenias. I believe the Millenia debuted in Japan in 1993. What changes needed to be made for US import, I'm not sure.
Try the Ebay thing, if all else fails, oh yeah, the woodkit around the central console should/can move removed, without to much difficulties, it should only require patience and effort in trying not to scuff the surrounding dash when prying it out.
*NOW, another problem, I'm noticing that there is a cloud of white smokes coming out from under the hood right after I start my car in the morning (plus white smoke from the muffler). What could be the problem that's causing the white smoke coming out of hood??? HELP! THANKS
Yes, oil will leak down on your manifold as well and burn for that nice morning smell of 10w30 with your coffee.
$460 is a decent price - have them replace your manifold gaskets as well while there. They ran me about $18 for those.
1) The valve cover gaskets are leaking all over the spark plugs and tubes. This is what is causing the burnt oil smell and possible rough idle. Apparently, 2.5s are notorious for this so for those with the oil smell, change the valve cover gaskets. They want to charge $460 for parts and labor at a 4 hour labor rate. That adds to $240 for labor and $220 for valve cover gaskets?? $220? I can get Fel Pros for $100 a set. Man!!
I'm kinda surprised at the recent posts about the older Millenias. Yes, I dread the costs of tune-ups but my car is not nearly as problematic as many of yours. CU has long given the Millenia very good reliability ratings. I guess most '95 and '96 Millenia owners have few troubles and thus don't need to post in this forum.
Had mine replaced about 2 months ago (thank god for extended warranty). There's a cable / cord in the antenna which can "detach" or break, which then requires replacement of the whole unit. This is the reason why it makes a pretty weird sound like gears not catching. If you have extended warranty should be able to "con" them that its not wear and tear. Besides, a good excuse to get a shiny new antenna.
On the 2.5 liter engine . . .
I can't remember or haven't read that the old 626 or MX-6 engines as having the same problems with leaky gaskets as the Millenia . . .
Got my car serviced (110k km's) . . .
Brake pads (about AUD$150 each for two)
Front CV joint (AUD$400) - if you think the engine layout is bad . . . wait till you hear the mechanics swear when they try to get this one out.
After 17,000 miles, I am ready (I mean overdue) to replace the tires. I want to keep the same size, but want some more tread life. Any suggestions?
Bob
Sounds like something is hitting the fan blades - we had the same thing as well.
I am the proud owner of a 97 Mazda Millenia S. I have owned it for two years now and am fond of it. However, I have outgrown the stock 210 horsepower and torque. I have searched high and low for parts and can only find few (vented brake disks, smaller pulley for supercharger, fuel pressure regulator, intake, and exhause). I need other parts like cams and pistons, headers, catalyc converter and the like. I want dependable horsepower but the car must be able to pass emissions inspection here in NYC. Has anyone done anything to their Millenia? All help would be greatly appreciated. Please forward all responses to supranyc@aol.com. Thanks in advance.
Anthony
1) Lexus ES300 - I get this the most often...this is understandable b/c I have the two-tone paint.
2) Acura - Also have had this more than once
3) Chrysler Sebring
4) "One of those new dodges"
5) Oldsmobile...hmm where did that come from?
6) Mercury Cougar
7) Infiniti I30...well since they stole the taillights off the Millenia I can understand this.
8) Mazda 929...get this often too...amazing how many people don't realize the 929 died years ago.
Usually when I get these off the wall remarks...I explain the whole Mazda/Amati story about the car and try to educate these confused people.
http://mazdarecycling.com/
http://www.maztoy.com/
http://www.mazmart.com/
-Peter
The car is fixed. The culprit of the crappy idle was due to vacuum lines being hooked up incorrectly when the replacement engine was installed. After the valve cover gasket replacement, thermostat replacement and vacuum line fix, we are back to normal. I hope this is my last post on this forum. Good luck too all out there with Millenias! And thanks to all the responses!!!!
Thank you.
It's time for me to replace both front axles - they're making a serious clicking noise and the boot/plastic cover cracked (I'm non-technical, so bear with me please). My car has 129K miles on it, so perhaps it's time.
In any case, my shop told me that if it was built 10/94 or earlier (mine was 10/94) they don't make the axles anymore, and they'd need to be sent out and rebuilt. He said 11/94 and later are fine. Oh well. The prices he quoted were 294.20 (w/ labor) per side on the rebuilt, and 237.76 had I not needed the rebuilt ones. Has anybody had this done? Does this seem like a fair price?
Secondly, I've got the annoying check-engine light problem that plagues so many of us. I've read through a number of posts, and got excited when I saw that something as simple as a gas cap that wasn't "clicked" three times could cause it. I ran down, clicked it 5 times, and the rat-[non-permissible content removed] still came on.
In any case, I've read some posts where people say the 02 sensors could be bad, and this could cause occasional sluggishness (YES) and degraded mileage (I get about 300 miles before my gas light comes on - and I drive about 30 miles per day, most of it freeway). My question is about the aftermarket ones. The guy at the shop said that some of them don't fit correctly, or need to be rigged to fit - and may not be specific for the car. Anybody here have personal experience w/ them? Any thoughts/suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks,
Derek
And yes, *if* is is the O2 sensors, you can go with aftermarket ones. They all /fit/ per se as they are usually the correct thread size - you just need to find out which wires go to which - super easy to do. Your mechanic should KNOW this. Two of them have 4 wires and the other two have 3 wires. I replaced one with a Mazda one for $120! Ouch - but I wanted a Mazda one for the back. I will be ordering my generics in a few days and post my results soon.
I am getting ready to replace the rear rotors and pads on my Millenia. I had a question:
-Do the rear calipers on this Mazda work like most rear calipers utilizing a parking brake? Meaning, in order to push the piston in, do I need the special tool with 2 teeth to spin the piston back into the caliper to get the clearance needed to get around the new rotor?
I've done many brakes before in the past so I'll know as soon as I pop the caliper. I'm just trying to get an idea and gather up the correct tools before I jump in!
Thanks!
In doing so, I had a heck of a time removing the battery cover,
and was unable to replace it. I noticed that air from the grill is vented
back to the cover...I assume to keep the battery cool. Since I have never seen
such venting of air onto the battery in my previous cars, my questions for
the group are:
1) Is this indeed used to cool the battery? If so why?
2) Am I risking serious trouble to the new battery/car without the plastic
hood to divert the air?
3) How the heck do I replace it? It seems a wiring harness from the fuse box is SO
close to where the hood fits on the air channel that I can't get it back on. What is the
standard procedure for replacing the battry in the 98 2.5 MILL?
Thanks in advance for your help,
Steve