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Mazda Millenia



  • ecafecaf Posts: 44
    I have a '95 S with over 100K. I noticed that the outside temperature gauge (the "AMB" button) only works once the car is warmed up. Upon cold startup, it always registers "99 degrees". Once the engine has been running for a few minutes, it registers the correct outside temperature. Have any of you noticed this, or is my "AMB" feature on the fritz? The automatic climate control is fine; although the fan has gotten a little noisier (too much use?). Nothin' life-threatening. Just curious.
  • Ecaf, your AMB problem is a sign that your Millenia is falling apart. Time to get a new 2001!! That new design actually grew on me, I like it. Seriously, have you had any other problems with your S? I've got 85,700 miles and always contemplate dumping the car off at 90-95k to get value. The other side of the coin is to drive it into the ground. What's your plan of attack, now that you are at the point of no return...over 100k? Are ya still happy?
  • mantagmantag Posts: 47
    sorry, i do not have that problem on my 95 S. Have it checked.
  • I have a 99 amb also takes a few mintutes to read the correct temperature...but it doesn't start at 99 degrees. It usually is about 5-10 degrees off at start-up.
  • ecafecaf Posts: 44
    I'm very happy with my '95 S! Yes, I've had my "Check Engine" light on before. I needed a new O2 sensor and EGR valve at over $300 a piece. Oh yeah, and that goddang outside temp gauge. This seems reasonable for a six year old car that's heavily used. I certainly don't feel that had more than its fair share of unexpected dealer visits. My biggest complaint is the cost of maintenence! Japanese reliability and German costs of maintenance! Thus, the only time I hate the car is at every 60,000 miles (tune-up time), during which time I can be caught browsing a Camry-powered ES300 at the local Lexus dealer! In reality, I'll be glad to keep my Merlot Mica Pearl bad-boy until 175,000 miles or so. I'll buy a new Millenia sooner when Mazda builds a 300-hp Millenia MPS (peep the new 2001 Protege MPS; it's like a baby Altezza/IS300!).
  • My Millenia does the same thing, have to wait for about 1-2 minutes before it shows the correct temprature. But, this problem also affected other cars I've driven; '95 M-Benz C280, '95 BMW 325is, '93 M-Benz 500SEL (even worst took almost 5 minutes), so I'm not concerned about the problem.

    The 2001 Millenia's design also grows on me; especially the rear and interior upgrades.

    BTW, My 2000 Millenia S (bought in 'Jan 2000) now has a very satisfying 19969 miles.

  • lyons4lyons4 Posts: 21
  • lyons4lyons4 Posts: 21
  • For those of you live in SoCal, there's a great deal on 2000 Millenia S. I just saw an ad on newspaer for a 2000 Mill S for $23195+tax+lic. I don't know what color it is, but it's two-tone color with four season package. It's at West Covina Mazda.
    BTW, I saw a red 2001 Millenia P on LAX this morning, first time I've seen it on the road. The rear is so beautifully design, that I followed the car until he went to the parking lot.
    Note to Infinity I30 designer, DO NOT copy Millenia's new rear design.

  • Ok.. it looks like its expensive to own a Millenia. Do I relly want to get one? I have had 2 RX 7's in the past and I loved them. Right now in So Cal OC, their offering up to $8000.00 off on all 2000 millenia! Hows the ride compared to a 2000 Maxima? Any rattles after a year? The base model's engine enough? BD6
  • My 99 S only gets about 24mpg when cruising at 75 - 80 mph. I question whether all the complexity of a supercharged engine is worth it. A Nissan Maxima 3l six will out perform this engine in every category.

    Does anyone have problems with numerous dash squeaks and rattles? Some go away by pushing on the dash but two remain. Will dealers address this under warranty after the first year?
  • Well it seems that a lot of you Millenia owners share my point of view. Back in '97 when I returned from a tour of duty overseas my then wife was insistant on buying a Honda Accord, but there was this beautiful Sand Mica '95 Millenia L that caught my eye at a dealership. I went in without the wife, took the car for a spin and bought it. My then wife was none to happy because she had been brain-washed into believing that a Honda Accord was the best car on the road, and I guess that is because every other car on the road is an Accord. Well a couple of years later we divorced and as a gift to myself I went and purchased a '99 Snow-white pearl/sand mica Millenia S. I loved my '95 but it was time for a change so I got rid of my wife and found the new love of my life my "S" and we are still together and very happy.
  • I replaced my ex-girlfriend with my new Millenia back in 99. She was jealous of me wanting to get a new car, we got into a lot of fights over the I got rid of her and got the Millenia.
  • I also have annoying squeaks in my dash...they first appeared after only 10,000 miles...the dealer fixed them...but now at 27,000 miles they are back...I plan on having them fixed the next time I go in for service. Last time it was the A-pillar rubbing against the dash, this time I think it is the airbag cover. I also have rattles from the sunroof...which I push on and they go away...I do not plan on having the dealership fix these, b/c my last car ('94 Mazda 626) had sunroof problems...everytime the dealership worked on the sunroof it got worse...I'm afraid they will mess up the sunroof trying to fix the I just turn up the radio instead.
  • Every car no matter what make or model will develop annoying rattles and squeeks. Lexus, Mercedes, BMW, and yes, even Mazda will develop annoying little rattles over time. I have a 99s and have only had two rattles so far. I had one on the rear window deck lid, which i solved by stuffing a few strips of weather stripping between the plastic deck and metal frame by crawling into the trunk. When laying in the trunk just pound on the metal frame and track down the rattles, stuff in a little discreet padding of some kind and pound again until they are all gone. Currently I have a problem with the seat belt pully located by my ear. I have not been able to solve that one yet, but I will. The trick is to stay vigilent and address the noises as they occur.
  • I just joined Town Hall so I apologize if you have already discussed this issue. I have a 95 Millennia pushing 118 I miles that I have performed all scheduled maintenance on and changed the oil every 3500-4000 miles faithfully. In lieu of the extensive repairs I have had, e. NV boots (St and St), replacement of valve cover gaskets, I still love my Millennia.
    My last major service was done in November,2000 as well as replacing all four tires ($$$). On Christmas Eve after driving seven miles, my car completely stopped on the freeway. There were no warning lights, no smoke,(until after the car stopped and then it was more like a burning smell rather than smoke, and no warning whatsoever. After $500 to diagnosis the problem, I was told after the engine(not the I), was blown and I had four options: 1. replace with new Mazda engine- set. $11,000 2. rebuild- set. $3300 3.rebuilt/remanufactured engine- est. $3200 or 4. repair good enough to get to a dealer for trade in. Of course, the warranty has expired and I cannot get a response from anyone at Mazda. At this point, I am upside down on the loan as the delears will wholesale the car out with $120K and won't give me hardly anything (this is without knowing about the engine yet). I have done extensive research regarding other comparable cars and found nothing that I feel compares- I LOVE MY MILLENIA!
    Finally, my questions are:
    1. Would you replace the engine and which above option would you chose and why?
    2. Trade the care in and deal with the loss? Would you sell privately or go thru dealer?
    3. Anyone else had the engine go and if so, how did you deal with it? Any response from Mazda?

    I would appreciate any response as I need to make a decision ASAP. Thanks
  • Gon4fun,
    Sorry to hear about your engine problem. Really stinks.

    First of all, for a diagnosis that cost $500.00, I hope your mechanic gave a lot more details than just "the engine is blown." For that kind of money he should have the problem pinpointed. ie. Camshaft broken, broken rod, etc., etc. Without those kinds of details, how can you make a good decision about repairs?

    Second, engines rarely just quit "without any warning," especially if the problem is mechanical (broken rod, etc.). There are usually many indications something is wrong.... clanging, grinding, banging, or rubbing noises, along with jerks and spurts and hesitation of movement.

    It sounds to me that you may have some sort of electrical or fuel problem. There are a lot of electronics on this car that could cause the engine to stop running without any warning... computer, ignition, fuel pump, etc., etc.

    If the engine will physically turn over when cranking, that's a good sign that the basic mechanics of the engine may be ok, and I would diagnose the basic electronics and fuel before going any further. ie. is fuel getting to the injectors; is ignition getting to the spark plugs?

    For $500, your mechanic should be able to tell you everything that he checked out, and how he did it, and the results of each test.

    If after all is said and done, and the engine really is blown, then I would go with the rebuilt for $3200. Your car has already deteriorated in value that much, so in effect, you have already spent that money. So go ahead and actually spend it, and recoup the value of your car. Now you can sell or trade or keep it as you wish, with a clear conscience.

    This engine is so complicated I would doubt many mechanics could rebuild one successfully, even Mazda's. Almost certainly not as well as a good "factory rebuilder," and $13000 for a new engine is just too high. Afterwards, the value of the car would be less than the cost of the NEW engine! So why do that? You'd be better off selling it for salvage/parts.

    Let us know what the specific problem is, if you find it out. It might help many of us when we encounter it. Good luck.
  • mantagmantag Posts: 47
    have to agree about going w/ a rebuilt engine for $3200. check around various dealerships. price could vary.

    btw - was it a 95 s? I have a 95 s, so far, no engine problems other than normal maintenance. i have 90k, but.......
  • jean7of9jean7of9 Posts: 192
    All the points raised by butchmilam1 are valid. However, for such a major diagnostic and repair job why don't you go to a qualified dealer. A good dealer is compelled to provide you with a written evaluation describing the problems and the needed repair. A general mechanic do not/not have all the special-to-type equipment for such repairs and adjustment. Furthermore I do not think you will be saving money by undertaking such major work outside any Mazda dealership. Good luck.
  • I myself would have to way the options thoroughly although you may be upside down on the loan of the vehicle, think about the fact you will be adding at least another $3000 to your debt by replacing the engine. Compare the difference of what you will get in the trade to what you will spend to have another engine put in.
    If it comes to getting another engine I would opt for the remanufatured, with a good warranty.
  • I've got a 96' in the shop now with the engine seized up, only 61,000 miles on it. Going home for Christmas on I-40, got a flicker of the oil light, turned the radio down heard knocking as I got to the side of the road it seized. Talk about losing speed. Glad I was almost off of the freeway when it happened or the semi behind me would of nailed us. Anyway Mazda service manager says a bolt broke on something inside the engine (can't remember exactly what)which caused it to seize. We thought we were lucky we've bought the extended warranty from Mazda. A new engine will be $4000 plus labor. Now we are being told they don't want to pay the claim for two reasons: 1) Slug and lacquering in the engine ( service manager says the engine is free of slug and that all engines will have lacquering after a while. 2) Lack of maintenance records. We had the one's since we got to my new base, but the one's we had from Lf. where missing. Couldn't find them any where. We were able to get one from Fl., we were still in their computer, but the other places purge their computers after a year of inactivity. We've been here 15 months. Our service manager is fighting for us, but I'm still going to base legal today to get some back-up.
    Anyone have a problem with Mazda's extended warranty not holding up to their end of the margin? Even when they finally see the light and pay the claim it will still take a week for the engine to come in and then who knows how long to install. Looking around 6 weeks without wife car. Tried calling Mazda's support line but was on hold for 30 minutes. Any help or hints will be appreciated. Thanks in advance,

  • there seems to be some misinformation on posting to this group
    such as 2 convertors on Millenias and a mechanic saying that the reason the S smokes at startup is because the S/C blows smoke out the exhaust, fact is the S/C at startup is under vacuum and the ABV directs incoming air directly into the intake manifold sort of bypassing the S/C.
  • I have 99 S and is searching for ideal tires for the car. I have factory dunlop sp4000 215/50/17's. I have 17k miles and have maybe 5000 miles of treads left. Any brand and size recommendation would be appreciated. What anyone thinks about getting 225/45/17s' would this lessen the performance? Hurt the suspension? what are your experiences?

    Another question for the mazda experts out there: I know that 2001 model has the microfiltration system as standard equipment. Do anyone know if it is possible to put one on my car?
  • Thanks for the responses and sorry for the typing errors. Spell check did bizarre changes! The quotes I was given were from Mazda dealer-sorry if I failed to mention that. Also, there was no banging, clanking, etc. As furypitcher stated, it just froze and I was lucky enough to get to the side of the freeway as well. The car would not turn over after that and then, every warning light the car has came on.
    Guess I will start getting quotes- Thanks
  • So what is the cause of the white smoke then? If there is no "major" fundamental problem, then any advice / comments on what it could be would be very greatly received

  • marak88marak88 Posts: 57
    I also would like to know the real reason behind the white smoke, my dealer service manager told me it was the super charger blowing alot of air all at once out of the tail pipe at start-up, but now some say it is not, who is right?, also is it a problem or not?, according to my dealer it is not a problem.
    Does any one know?

  • I have a 95 with 67000 miles. I have a weird grinding rumbling noise in the front wheels when driving on the highway and especially when turning. The tires were just rotated,and they are starting to cup like the front end is misaligned. I had it aligned this summer, and no major jolts to the front end. This seems like maybe a wheel bearing problem. The steering wheel shimmy's slightly when let go of it, but I think that is from the tires? Anybody incur this problem?
  • mantagmantag Posts: 47
    if you hear a "whining", iy sounds like the front wheel bearings. both will run you around $500. If you hearing a grinding or grumbling, it may be the front outer cv boots broke open and their is no grease left - hence the grinding metal sound. if this is it you will need a new boot and a new transaxle(try for a reman. one) expect to pay approx $300 ish for the repair. with front wheel drive, you really need to pay attention to the cv boots - once they break open - its too late, you will need to get a new transaxle. replace the boot before it breaks no matter what mechanic says, approx $80. iwould change every 60k at max.
  • To follow up on mantag's post, if the wheel bearings are bad, there will probably be some play or whobble in the wheel against the hub. This is better checked with the car on a lift, but if they're really bad you may feel some looseness by trying to (aggressively) move the wheel/tire against the hub while the car is on the ground.
  • To go4fun: Still would like to know the specific failure your engine had, if you know it. That info would help the rest of us a great deal. Thanks.
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