BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

allano

A while ago, one of this board's recommendations to improve clutch engagement was to move your seat back as far as you can (maybe to the point where you have to bend your ankle to push the clutch petal to the floor). The clutch on the 330 has a much higher toggle or over-center force (pushes you leg up unevenly during engagement) than the 325. Keeping your leg a little more straight at the center of clutch travel helps to better control the uneven forces. Like to hear if this adjustment worked as well for you as it did for me.
For starting in 1st, a tip I found that worked well was to keep pushing your accelerator petal down - never leave it in one position when engaging the clutch. I believe 1st to 2nd shifts are a matter of timing and practice. During a shift after heavy acceleration, my accelerator motion seems to be a total lift and then an instinctive push down (i.e. I could not tell you how much) while engaging in 2nd. In this case, practice is a lot of fun.

brave1heart

I have 7,500 miles on my 325i SP, drive it very hard all the time, and still find it extremely difficult to get any squealing sound out of the tires under extremely aggressive cornering with or without the DSC+electronic braking. I have read that the RE730 and SP8080 and esp. PP S03 are slightly better performance tires and I think that's very likely. But I'd think that the Contis offer more comfort; road noise is the last thing that comes to mind on my car. Don't believe everything BMW "enthusiasts" claim and judge independently for yourself. Two questions:
1. How could you tell that the Contis are "junk" with just 2K miles on the car? Did you follow break-in procedures? Were they that bad that it was worth wasting all this money?
2. What did you replace them with?

dave330i

if you're shifting smoothly while normal driving, then your problem could be something as simple as popping the clutch while trying to be fast. Trying to be smooth and quick at the same time isn't the easiest thing to do, and the only real way to fix it is though practice. Keep working on being smooth, and the quickness will come in time.

ccotenj

1) read for content. i bought the car used. the tires weren't worn out. yes, they were that bad. the car tramlined horribly. they had virtually no grip in the rain. they were quite easy to break loose.

2) i replaced them with pp s-02. and i can promise you that the performance difference isn't slight, it's huge.

3) the contis don't offer more comfort.

4) i did judge for myself. i was including myself in the "bimmer enthusiast" category. i've got a little bit more than a vague idea of what i'm talking about, although i am FAR from what you would call a bimmer expert.

5) if you'd care to come over to the sportscars forum and post a question in the 3er gearhead topic and ask folks about the conti-sports, you'll get similar answers to mine. i'm not blowing hot air here.

6) if you ain't making them squeal, you ain't driving it hard enough.

-Chris

MarkinAtlanta

I've had my car since new, I've got 86,000 miles on the clock now. A '98 323IS, shod with OEM Conti Sports CH95. I found them to be pretty substandard all-season performance tires. I replaced them with all season Pirelli P6000 Sport Veloce. These were a big improvement (performance, noise, ride) over the Contis. I have since replaced the Pirelli with Yokohama AVSi (summer performance tires). These are a huge improvement over the Pirellis. My experience if this helps.

jasonkureejii

I'm no tire expert, but the Conti-Sports have provided some decent grip on moderately-even dry terrain. On some very uneven roads (which I'm sure everyone has encountered at some point), I do feel that the tires slip a little on tighter corners, but nothing I cannot overcome with steering adjustments. I have yet to hear them really squeal...once or twice, I've bursted from a side road onto the main street, but I expected it. With new rain and near-flooded roads, I must say that they've given me a bit more confidence than I expected. I heard someone talk about the Michelin Pilots providing even better traction AND comfort. I'm not sure. I don't have any problems with the comfort-level of these.

ccotenj

the pilots are better. much better.

look, you guys dont have to believe me.

heres a couple things for you to check out, ok?

ultra high performance tire survey

max performance tire survey

please don't take this the wrong way, but if you haven't driven a car with a real good set of tires, you really can't make a judgment as to their capabilities. the tires you have may be just fine for you. there's nothing wrong with that. but to come out and state that the pilots "might" be better and that the s-03's (jumping right past the s-02's) have "slightly" better performance is just downright ludicrous.

-Chris

hippo168

I think the Continental tires - contiSports in the ultra-high perf category - are below standard.

The tirerack "survey results" shows ContiSports are not very popular, and they didn't get a decent grade...

Remember my experience? The top part of the tire came off completely? For a small part, it might be my fault for not checking for flat, but it was brand new at around 800 miles. After that incident, I lost some confidence on the ContiSports, though I decided to run with them until they are worn out.

silverprincess

So even though the Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45R-17 Z-rated performance tires spec. says that the maximum inflation pressure is "51 psi", I should still only inflate them to 30/35 psi?

When I had them mounted at a local reputable tire store, I believe they inflated them to 45 psi. Is that too much for these types of tires?

hippo168

I think the Continental tires - contiSports in the ultra-high perf category - are below standard.

The tirerack "survey results" shows ContiSports are not very popular, and they didn't get a decent grade...

Remember my experience? The top part of the tire came off completely? For a small part, it might be my fault for not checking for flat, but it was brand new at around 800 miles. After that incident, I lost some confidence on the ContiSports, though I decided to run with them until they are worn out.

ccotenj

yes. inflate them 30/35 when tires are "cold". you should follow the car manufacturer's recommendation for inflation, regardless of whether it's a bmw or a chevy.

couple things.

1) the "maximum pressure" on the sidewall is exactly that. maximum pressure that the tire is rated for. not the recommended pressure for your car.

2) some people will tell you to overinflate them to get better gas mileage and so on. this is NOT a good idea. overinflated tires will tend to overheat, and overheating can bring on unintended excursions off the road.

3) once you drive it for awhile and get used to the characteristics of your car, you can "play around" with your tire pressures a little bit (if you like) to make it handle more to your liking. but generally speaking, i really wouldn't try to out-guess the bmw engineers by a whole bunch.

hope this helps. you should get yourself a tire gauge and once a week, check them. generally i check mine when i fill up, just out of habit. of course, i check the oil every time i fill up too.

-Chris

-Chris

planoml

is sooooo cool. You guys know that it's standard on a 330. Is it available on a 325 with Euro delivery. I'm looking at a 325, but would like to have this trim.

silverprincess

Some mechanics tell me that the general rule of thumb for tire inflation is about 5 psi less than the maximum tire inflation spec. Is that true? So with the Michelins that I have, that would put it to about 45-46 psi, right? Based on what you're saying, that's way too high! I'll check and deflate them this evening.

ccotenj

you've got the idea.

the bmw engineers have designed the suspension/balance of your car in a way so that it "likes" the inflation at their recommended pressure. over-inflation will affect the handling characteristics of the car (especially if you equalize the pressure all the way around).

once you get the inflation "right", you will "feel" the difference in the way the car drives...

-Chris

ajvdh

Like most cars, the 3-series are designed to understeer in steady state cornering. Translating from car-geek into English, that means if you're going around a corner too fast, the front end will slide more than the back.

When driving enthusiastically, or on a track, that can be annoying, 'cause it's hard to get the car rotated and get back on the throttle early. Raising the front tire pressure relative to the rear will make the front tires "bite" better, which will make it easier to get the tail out. For example, my E36 M3 calls for 30 front/36 rear (cold). I run 36 all around on the street, and bump it to 38 front/37 rear for driver's schools and open track events. If the track in question has most of its turns in one direction, I'll add another lb of pressure to the outside front. You shouldn't have to go more than a couple of lbs above the higher of the two stock pressures (front vs. rear).

I've had Michelin MXX3 and Yokohama AVS sports on the car. The Yokos give up a little maximum dry grip to the Michelin's but when they finally let go, they give me more warning. The Yokos are better in the wet.

Either tire has so much grip, the only times you should ever hear squealing is when you're on a track, or you're performing an emergency avoidance manuver. IMHO, if you hear squealing out of those puppies in regular driving, you're going waaay too fast.

ccotenj

i wasn't even gonna broach the understeer v. oversteer issue... i think for the original poster's application, the built in understeer is probably a good thing... at least until they get the feel of the car...

fwiw, recommended pressure on mine is 32/36... i generally run around 35/37, experimentation has proven that brings (my car, anyway) it to a more neutral condition... anything above that ratio made it a little loose for my driving skills...

as usual, ymmv.

-Chris

ajvdh

I got to drive a 98 M3 with a Koni coil-over kit last week. After that, my car felt like a pig. Well, my shocks are pretty shot anyway and it's only money...

derprofi

on the 330i for 2002 is called titanium. I was under the imression that the titanium trim will be different from what used to be called aluminum. Hmmm...on the BMWUSA site, it says that "titanium-finish trim" is also standard on the 2002 325i. Possibly a typo?

hippo168

I think it is time to order some snow tires as winter is a couple months away. I have the sports package on my 325i, and I obviously do not want to use my 17 rims.

Most people suggested I go with 16", or even 15". Will 15" be able to fit on 2001 325's? The salesperson I contacted with tirerack said 225/50 R16. What are your experiences? What sizes do you recommend?

thanks.

gurumike

on new 325i due to size of the brakes. 15" would work on a 99-00 323i only. I'd recommend you choosing yours by way of the tire rack's website. Easiest way to buy tires - likely the cheapest too.

2ndmb

Hi,
I've been thinking about a 330xi with a sport package and automatic. Does anyone have this combo and if so how do you like the handling and performance. Also, does the awd system make any significant noise on the hwy. Thanks for your assistance.

ccotenj

hey, the coil-overs aren't that expensive...



1300 for the bilstein set... they don't have the koni's in here...

i've never had the opportunity to drive one setup with coilovers... must be pretty cool...

-Chris

bmw323is

Chris, thanks for the links to the Tire Rack surveys. I have the Conti Sports and I like them, or at least I did this morning . Compared to the all season tires I've had in the past, they are terrific. I noticed the Bridgestone RE730's were high in the rankings of Ultra Performance Tires. These are the tires I think I would buy now if I were ready to replace the Conti's. The Pole Position's sure look nice, and I suspect they handle wonderfully, but a grand for set is tough to swallow when they wear out in 20,000 miles (or less with a few autocrosses and track days). Anybody have experience with the 730's?

edward5555

Educated ladies like the Bimmer, while the "stripper set" seems to like the Lexus. Hmmmmmmmmmmm

ccotenj

thanks for your well thought out contribution.

-Chris

shipo

Hmmmm, a year or so before I met my wife, I found myself renting a spare room (on the request of a common friend) to a young lady who was a professional stripper/dominatrix (I did not find out about that until after she moved in). As it turn out, she LOVED BMWs, in fact, she owned (paid cash for it) a brand new 1992 BMW 325ic. Funny thing though, she never drove it to work, always took a cab.

Best Regards,
Shipo

ccotenj

i don't have personal experience with them, but the reviews seem to be good, and others seem to like them.

my pp's are just about shot, and i agree, it's tough to drop the 1k on a set... i've been considering either the re730's or maybe trying the kumho's, they are only 100 apiece and are rated right there with the re730's...

good luck.

-Chris

ajvdh

Tire rack will be able to tell you which (if any) 15 or 16" wheels will fit. They seem to have a soft spot for Bimmers; they sponser BMW CCA club racing.

I've never run the RE730s myself, but several people on the M3 mailing list think they're a good, cost-effective solution for street driving (these are people who have a set of dedicated wheels with R-compounds for track days).

Coil-overs: I was pleasantly surprised by how well they rode. I hit some railroad crossings, and it didn't feel much different than my car. Turn in was much sharper and the body control was amazing. Not the ultimate "track only" setup, but a great compromise for my situation. If I get 'em, I'll probably have Bimmerhaus install 'em along with camber plates - They're an excellent shop, and know suspensions (Bob Tunnell has 9 SCCA Solo-II and pro-solo national championships).

brave1heart

Thank you for all your help with educating the board on tire selection. The links you provided are very useful as well. I am planning on autoxing next Spring and your experience will certainly help me with tire selection. Would you still recommend the RE730's to those 3-series owners who push the car hard on daily basis but do not autox?

BTW, what are camber plates?

silverprincess

I have Michelin Pilot Sport 225/45R-17 ZR rated (max perf) which I bought from tirerack.com, and I love them! And check out the aggressive-looking treads! I bought them on sale for $179/each. Highly recommended by tirerack.

ccotenj

sure. i don't autox my convertible.

adjustable camber plates replace your strut mounts to allow you to change your settings when you go from the street to the track... it allows you even more variance of control over understeer/oversteer...

check out this link...

-Chris

kominsky

I think the -1 size is a great idea (16" wheels), but you may want to consider going with a narrower width too. Maybe a 205/55... A narrower tire will get a better 'bite' in the snow (higher psi with narrower contact patch).

For tire size options that will fit on your car, go to...

http://www.dsm.org/tools/tiresize.htm

ccotenj

if you do go -1, you have to go with a narrower width to keep the overall dimension of the wheel/tire combination the same...

i.e.

205/15/60
225/16/50
235/17/40

all equate out to approximately the same diameter of wheel/tire...

if you don't keep the same diameter, you will have to have your speedo recalibrated, and probably will experience some "interesting" handling issues...

good luck.

-Chris

ajvdh

Like I said, I've never driven RE730s, but from what I've heard from people whose opinions I respect, they'd be a good choice for what you describe.

Camber plates: One way to reduce the initial understeer on a car is to make the camber (vertical tilt of the wheel as seen from the front) more negative (top of the wheel is tilted inwards). The trade-off for this is increased wear on the inside edges of the tires.

The stock 3-series front suspension, like most MacPherson setups, isn't adjustable for camber or caster (inclination of the steering axis as seen from the side). Camber plates are basically steel disks that go at between the bearing at the top of the strut, and the car body. The plates have slots rather than holes for the bearing mount, so one can adjust camber and/or caster. Theoretically, you can go to the track, kick in 1 or 2 degrees extra camber, then put everything back to normal before you drive home.

There are other solutions: Shim the bottom of the steering knuckle, or use the special offset "crash bolts" BMW makes to bring cars with unit body damage back into spec. Neither of these are easy to adjust. The former also reduces clearance between the fender and tire, and the latter has a reputation of not "holding" alignment all that well.

- Alain "Pedantic? Moi?"

kominsky

He has 225/45-17's stock and tire-rack recommended 225/50-16's so he doesn't really 'have' (how did you put that in italics?) to go narrower as long as he goes to a higher profile.

ccotenj

lol... as usual, i knew you'd be able to spit out the detailed explanation...

-Chris

ccotenj

true. he's still gonna be a little off, but relatively close enough (about 4%, off the top of my head).

that being said, your original suggestion of going with a less wide tire is a good one. if he's at 225/45/17 now, i think a better choice would be 205/55/16... ymmv...

italics - unfortunately, i really can't show you, because the browser will interpret it. here's what to do. go to the page that the italics are on. right click and click on "view source". scroll down through the source until you find the part that you saw italicized... you'll notice a "less than sign, i, greater than sign" in front of the word and then a "less than sign, /, i, greater than sign. that's how to do it.

good luck.

-Chris

MarkinAtlanta

comparing tire/wheel sizes.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

iwantanm5

did anybody here install clear films on the hood, bumper, mirrors? How long do they last? I bought the kit. But I cannot find a body shop or dealer in the Bay Area to get this done. A tint shop wants to charge $500. It's way too high.

hippo168

Thanks for all the help on selecting tires. After playing with the tire conversion webpages, it seems 205/55-16 is the closest match... and going narrower at the same time.

Thanks.

iwantanm5

did anybody here install clear films on the hood, bumper, mirrors? How long do they last? I bought the kit. But I cannot find a body shop or dealer in the Bay Area to get this done. A tint shop wants to charge $500. It's way too high.

dave330i

BMWUSA finally called me this morning to inform me I'm next on the list. It's been a long 3 months.

planoml

You're right it is Titanium, and the BMWUSA site shows it as standard on the 325. The salesman must have been trying to get me into the 330, as I was really impressed with the trim. Doesn't take much.

I have a 1995 325i-love it, and am looking into getting a Eurodelivery 325. Don't know if I should wait a couple of years for the body change or not though. Thanks for the info.

ajvdh

I have it on my car. The original owner had it done when he bought the car almost 7 years ago. Seems to have held up well. We have a real stone-chip problem in Colorado, and you can tell the clear bra's kept the damage down.

- Alain (minimal stone chips, perpetually dirty wheels)

ccotenj

but i DO have the stuff on the lights... i ordered it the day i had to replace a foglight (my goodness, you'd think there was gold in those things)... the stongard things seem to work pretty well, i've eaten several things (primarily hunks of truck tires) on the highway and haven't broken one since...

-Chris
whose wheels get cleaned once a year, whether they need it or not...

bmw323is

I had a clear bra put on my 323 the day I bought it (new) and paid $180 installed. I have a jet black car and was warned before installation that I would be able to see minor imperfections in the plastic on the black paint. I saw more than minor imperfections the first time it was installed. I made them do it over. It's better now, but still certainly has mimor visable scratches and strech marks in the plastic. The shape of the E46 hood makes the installation even more difficult. Don't know if I would do it again. Yes, it has stopped the stone chips (as Alain said - very bad here on Colorado freeways). But, on a very dark paint, it is certainly NOT invisable.

nohash1

whats the other website where you can get BMW information.

wuhsi1

Hi topaz325xi & tenet1,
Topaz325xi, your review is very helpful and encouraging. I noticed that you and tenet1 just recently purchased the new 325xi. I have been trying to hunt the car since June but was not able to get the 2001 model. I ended up getting the 2002 model which is on production right now. According to the dealer, it will arrive next month which is Nov.. I just want to ask you whether there is any room to bargain for the car. I have tried hard to negotiate with my sales but there was not luck at all. MSRP is the only price they would sell it. I live in Boston area and I am curious whether someone else around the area had the same problem. It seems that BMW AWD has great shortage in the East Coast region. If you don't want to discuss the topic on the forum, you may email me at wuhsi@hotmail.com
Thank you very much!

ojc

I am looking at both because I like the bigger size of the 530 but I am not sure if there are other advantages/disadvantages. The 530 costs more, is heavier and thus a tad slower (and more body roll?), but is it any quieter? I like quiet! (No, I do not want a Lexus) There is no center console storage in a 530, which is a nuisance (but not a complete barrier to the car). Any feedback appreciated.

roc50mg

New X5 4.6 is, V-8 340hp, 0-60 in 6.2s!!! Wow!!!
Now that's what I call an SUV!!! May put my 330xi to shame.
I wonder what Mercedes will come up w/next.
How fast is the new Porsche SUV supposed to be?