BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

mpower340

Just moved to Oklahoma State that does not require its

front license plate. Can it be removed without any

marks or holes? Please advise. Thanks.

easman61

I am looking for a reliable, safe, and somewhat fun car for my soon to be 16 yr old son. I've been considering the following - all high mileage cars to keep the price below $7k - Older Maximas, Civics, and BMW 318i. I was surprised that the BMW's were as inexpensive as they are. I'm a car guy and have always been drawn to the beemers. Any body care to weigh in on whether the BMW would be a good choice? I would want to find a one owner, well maintained car. Thanks in advance for any help you can give me.

badtrukrisin

Just purchased a 323i and am wondering what I am in for? It has 86k on it. Has been BMW maintained. ABS light stays on. How do you reset the service light? I will be doing my own maint on the car from here on. What is a good cheap code reader for this car? How complicated is the computer system? Should I change all fluids? I also own a Ford Powerstroke that uses synthetic fluids, are they the same requirements? What should I investigate before driving very far? All suggestions will be appreciated.
Bud

alibajalajaula

This is a question to the forum. I've been looking at the Dinan 3.15 differential upgrade as a possible driveline modification. Is this the so-called LSD (limited-slip-diferential) referred to in these forums, alike the M3s, Miatas or S2000?. The ZHP stock differential ratio is 3.07:1. Does this mean that with the new differential I would have 3.15/3.07=1.03, 3% more revolutions/torque per engine shaft RPMs? Dinan's claim is that 0-60 can be attain without changing from 2nd to 3rd gear. What do you guys think? :confuse: Is 4 grand worth 3% increase in traction? Of course the other mods, such as exhaust, cold air intake, throttle body and software would bring the bill to five & half grand, with a possible 22 hp gain up to 257. Not bad. But the Dinan rep suggest do the differential first. Wanna chip in? Basically I can't wait for the new M3, but can't jump into a new/CPO now. So, just started asking about souping it up. :shades: Finally, would this kill the resale value of the car?

fedlawman

Unless you're tracking your car, you don't need to spend $4000 for a LSD (even if you do track it, that price is outrageous). The difference in street performance between a 3.07 and a 3.15 will probably be imperceptible to you.

Don't believe Dinan's HP claims for their other parts either - you'll spend thousands of dollars on HP gains you'll have difficulty noticing.

Save your money.

div2

Have you ever attended any drivers schools such as the ones conducted by BMW CCA? If not, I seriously doubt that you are able to exploit more than 60% of the capabilities of a stock ZHP. Learning how to actually drive your car is a crucial first step. Only after you understand that Trailing Throttle Oversteer is NOT the band that used to open for REO Speedwagon should you start to put money into the car. At that point you should contact Brett Anderson at Koala Motorsport.

blueguydotcom

Agreed. I spent two days at buttonwillow raceway with BMWCCA and it was easily the best $500 ever spent on me or a car (my family gave me the racedays as an xmas present).

I drive differently now, no doubt. My line through a series of corners keeps the car planted and going faster than I ever could before those days on the course.

nyccarguy

Hey div2

Have you heard anything about skip barber driving schools? They teach at Lime Rock, CT and I might like to get a one day course for my upcoming 30th birthday!

brave1heart

Skip Barber practically invented race schools as we know them today. That said, going to that school first would be like buying running shoes for a baby that can barely walk yet ;o) A BMWCCA driving school would be just as good and MUCH cheaper. Read "Going Faster" if you get the time -- you'll learn a lot about Skip Barber and competition driving in general

A friend of mine bought a used 3.46 limited-slip diff for his 330ci. It makes a noticeable difference in acceleration and traction while powering out of corners (esp. on slippery surface) but if you don't autocross or track the car, there's no pointing spending that kind of money. He only paid $1,200 for the LSD and installed it himself. Dinan is a good tuner but mostly for people who don’t know what to do with their money -- you can buy everything that they sell for a lot less money and it will be as good and sometimes better.

div2

I'll second what Brave said. A CCA school is a good place to start. Barber runs a good program, but you most definitely pay a premium for it.

gordonwd

Does anyone know what the differences are between the standard and sport suspensions for an '04 325i? Obviously the springs are different, but how many other parts? Shocks and/or swaybars maybe?

div2

Usually a SP BMW has specific shocks as well as larger anti-roll bars-unless it's an Xi, in which case the suspension is identical to the standard model. According to the ETK, the E46 325i gets a 5mm larger front anti-roll bar as well as "Sport" or "M Sports" shocks.

mschukar

Bumped to for anyone who missed it the first time

My '02 325i heat system has been acting strange lately. At times, the fan level shows nearly full blast, but not much air is coming out (this in full auto mode). Manually changing the fan level has no affect. Turning the ignition off and back on seems to fix the problem.

A more frequently occurring issue is hearing the vent fan pulse (blow harder, softer, harder, softer) while to the display shows one level. This seems to happen most times when I start the car and the temperature high enough to generate heat.

When the interior of the car is warm and the display shows a lower fan level, I don't notice anything.

Any thoughts?

-murray

alibajalajaula

When I got my 04'330i ZHP (happy birthday, exactly 2 years ago today -30K-), it came with a continuous ">molding that neatly fits in the front bumper. I saw when they removed that molding at the dealership and inserted the one with the preformed license plate holder fitted with holes for screws. You would have to go back to the dealer and see if they can give you back that original molding. I still have it, hoping for a day TX will do away with front LP.

sunilb

I've heard that there is a part called "Final Stage Resistor" that could go bad... this may be the culprit. Part is ~ $75, from what I've read.

nyccarguy

link title

I hope I posted the ebaymotors link correctly. If (nuts said the queen if she had 'em she'd be king) this E36 M3 had a black interior and I was in the market for an E36 m3 right now, this might be a good one to snatch up.

kyfdx

In the ad... down where they judge condition of the car..

Everything is marked "excellent", except for the frame, which is marked as "good".

Weird.... and scary..

Looks great though, and really low miles..

phollie

I'm considering a 2003 325xi and a 325i. The xi felt a little heavy to me in driving, but its at a good price. What are the primary driving characteristics of one vs. the other. Also, any inherant problems going one over the other if you have a choice?

armand

I have a '05 325Xit and are having a problem paring a Verizon Razr with the bluetooth. Anyone have a similar problem - any suggestions? I have already pared a Cingular Razr to it with no problems.

abfisch

Has anyone installed aftermarket sway bars??? Dinan, UUC, Tunermotorsports, etc. Can you please comment on them?? How do they compare to the SP suspension that BMW offers?? Do they decrease ride quality???

Thanks.

abfisch

brave1heart

I've had the UUC sway bars in my E46 435i for 3 years. They improve handling noticeably. Ride quality is comparable - a litte busier but still very comfortable and non-jarring. TMS usually has good products and reasonably priced. I am not familiar with their sway bars but they are probably good too.

div2

UUC and Turner are both high quality shops that know BMWs inside and out. I'd give the nod to UUC, mainly because I've had first hand experience with their products.

nyccarguy

There's got to be some sort of catch... It looks too good to be true :P

abfisch

Thanks for the recall. Did your E46 come withthe SP or regular suspension set up??? Mine has the SP and I am alot older now, so I don't want to diminish ride quality all that much. Back in the day, not a problem. At 47 years old, not into harsh. A little busier I can take but cannot take vibrations and harshness on long drives. Can you comment further?? Were they difficult to put on??? The strut bar was a snap. I am relatively good for a home mechanical stand point. Have put on sway bars before. Since UUC's are adjustable, did you put them on the softest setting closest to the bar or the stiffest setting at the end of the bar??? I know this is technical but I don't want to be unhappy are purchasing them and going through a 1/2 putting them on. Any squeaks or clunks??

Thanks for the comments.

abfisch

motorcity3

Hello everyone. I have been feeling a faint vibration on my steering wheel when I am doign anywhere between 40-60mph. It doesn't always happen, and sometimes I think it depends on the surface. The funny thing is that I have started feeling this very recently after I had new tires installed. I have only had alignment done once on the car since I bought it and that was about 2 and a half years ago. I had balancing done, however, I did not get alignment done. Do I need alignment? I don't understand why I could not feel this vibration when I had my old worn out tires and I can feel it now after I have new tires installed and balancing done on the car! It is a 2001 325i. Any ideas?

Thanks in advance.

-motorcity.

brave1heart

Yes, my car is an '01 325i SP. Absolutely no vibrations or harshness - you actually can't tell the difference going in a straight line or going over speed bumps with both wheels. All it does is cut down on side-to-side motions while cornering. The fronts use the stock links and they were very easy to put in. The rears are a little trickier - you need to lower the exhaust a little to get better clearance. There are DIYs on e46fanatics and probably bimmerfest too - look them up to determine if they are within your skill level. With both bars set to full stiff, my car was OVERsteering a bit (the front camber plates that I have help that too), so I set the rears to medium soft and the car's handling is perfectly neutral! No squeaks or clunks if you put them in properly (not in my car at least, although I've heard other complain) and grease the bushings once a year.

brave1heart

It's most likely one of the rims. I had the same problem ~ 40-50 mph (esp. under light braking) with my winter rims and tires. The problem did not disappear after I got new winter tires but it did go away when I switched back to my summer setup. Bring the rims to a shop where they can put them on a spinner to see which one needs straightening.

maulana

hi. I am sure this has probably been covered many times before, but I have not been able to find it through an archives search.

I am thinking of purchasing a 2003 (circa) BMW, and am trying to decide between a 325 and a 330. The 325 ones are about 4k cheaper. I have heard though that they are a bit underpowered. Not looking to win any races, just wanted a sense of people who have real world experience with both.

any advice?
many thanks,

nyccarguy

Only way for you to tell is to test drive each model and decide for yourself. What are you driving now? People's perceptions are different.

maulana

Dear NYCcarguy,

I do plan on testing them myself, but wanted to hear what other folks' experience was.

I am downsizing after driving SUVs for a while, but in the past I have enjoyed BMWs, Passats, Audis, etc.

bdr127

I do plan on testing them myself, but wanted to hear what other folks' experience was.

I'll sum it up for you in the following four statements.....

1) Some people say that you have to get the 330i because the 325i is too underpowered.
2) Others say they can't tell the difference between the 325i and 330i.
3) Others notice the difference but don't care about power at all.
4) Others simply can't justify the difference in price.

There ya go... All of the four opinions and preferences that people tend to have, all in one simple post.

abfisch

Depends on the model and tranny. I bought a used 04 BMW 325ci SP with very little extras on it, from a soldier who brought it back from Germany, 5 speed. Very fun, very tight. Not over powered not expensive. Just depends. If it had the automatic, or was heavier with the cabrio or power equipment, maybe, so it depends.

hope it works out for you.

abfisch

amybee

I have a 1998 bmw 328is and I am not sure if it has a sports package or not. Some websites for prices ask you to choose whether you have a sports package and also a sports suspension. If you have one do you automatically have both?
I have a rear spoiler and ground effects, but I am not sure how to tell if I have a sports package. I am trying to sell the car and do not know whether to list as a sports package or not. Can anyone help me?

nyccarguy

A few things could help you out:

The wheels should be a dead giveaway. They are a split 5 spoke 16" wheel if you have the Sport Package. Your car will also have Sport seats which have thick bolsters on the side and a aport steering wheel with just 3 spokes.

Edit: If you have the Sports Package, you have the Sport Suspension

nyccarguy

I wasn't trying to patronize you (or be sarcastic for once in my life), and I'm sorry if my post came off that way.

I currently drive a 2001 Honda Prelude Type SH. Great handling car. Lots of fun to drive (especially with my new W rated Yokohama EVS100 summer shoes). All the power in my car is at the top end. When I drop from 5th to 3rd at 65-70mph, it rockets past the car I'm trying to pass. However I rarely drive above 80mph.

I drove an E90 325iA (there was no stick to drive on the lot when I went for a test drive) and felt the car was more powerful than my Prelude and it would be more than enough for my needs. I was also impressed with the balance and handling. Although I felt it to be a bit on the soft side (even with the SP).

I had the pleasure of driving a 330iA SP at a Lexus driving event and was very impressed with the power (even with a slushbox) and balance of the car.

Even though a 330i is way more car than I need for my driving abilities, if I could afford it I would get it. It comes with a few things that are optional on the 325i (xenon headlights, power seats, upgraded stereo...) that bring the price difference much closer (if you were to load up your 325i with options).

In the real world the difference in payments could equal a set of winter wheels & tires and maybe a new set of summer tires over the life of a lease, so the practical side of me(the one that plans on keeping the aforementioned Prelude for a few more years) would probably go for a minimally equipped 325i.

potemkin

I'm mostly 3) and a little 4). Put down at 3.25)

joan0424

:confuse: I've always wanted a bmw because it's reliable even after hundreds of miles... I'm interested in getting a 1996 328i w/ 145000 miles on it. One owner and he has all of the service documentations... car fax came out good... the owner said he just changed the battery, tires, and fixed the power windows. He did mentioned that when he start the car in the morning it will not start right away until he pumps the gas a little... but after that he can start and go with no issue. Is it the fuel pump? Is that expensive to get fix? Also, he said that when he first starts it the airbag lights turns on but will turn off shortly after you start driving... should I worry about that? Other than the two issue mentioned the car seems to be good... the price he is asking is $5500... please advise.

Thanks!

Joan

div2

Joan, you really need to have an experienced BMW tech inspect the car before you purchase. A properly maintained 328i would be a great deal for $5500; a neglected car will be a money pit.
Several things could cause the cold idle problem-most are easy and inexpensive to fix, but you won't know until a good Bimmer tech checks it over.
If the airbag light stays on for @2 minutes after starting the car the problem is most always either a bad seat belt latch or a defective sensor pad in the seat cushion.

pjp9999

I am tossing around the idea of buying a certified pre-owned 2004 or 2005 BMW 325i with around 10-20k miles. I've only owned Japanese cars in the past and I don't want a moneypit of a car. Not sure if a BMW is the car for me because engine may be too sophisticated? Would appreciate any feedback re: dependability, service, CPO vs. leasing new, etc.

thanks.

armand

As the owner of a '05 325XiT and an '04 Acura TL I can tell you nothing is as reliable as a good Japanese car or as much fun to drive as a BMW. I like both my car for different reasons. By the way the TL is fun to drive but not as much as the BMW and the reliability of the BMW is OK but not like the Acura.

maulana

NO problem at all. I know email sometimes does come across weird.

I have noticed about a 4k difference in 325 and 330's that are being returned from leases, so I think I might go for a 325.

thank you everyone.

nyccarguy

by giving my analysis of an E90 325i vs E90 330i, not the E46 modle you're looking at.

Brave1heart has a 325i (modified) that he autocrosses and r5an car & driver's 1 lap of America with. I don't think he longs for the extra power of the 330i at all.

Blueguydotcom has a ZHP 330i that he loves driving. He's said many times he knows someone with a 325i and he doesn't like driving it.

EDIT: div2 has an E36 318ti that he could probably run rings around most of us if we had an M3.

It is all personal preference.

brave1heart

An E46 325i manual has plenty of zip for street driving. If you go with an auto tranny, I think the 330i engine would be better suited for it. Drive both before you decide.

div2

div2 has an E36 318ti that he could probably run rings around most of us if we had an M3.

Well, I might be a decent driver, but I don't think I'm THAT good...

sky11

got an e36 with 183,000 and it runs beautifully. no major work (rings,pistons etc) still get 29 mpg city/highway mix @65mph and still drive it every day. purchased it new in oct of 91 had to repaint and will drive it hopefully for another five years. wanted to put 250,000 on it but just might come up a little shy

blacki

Thinking of trading in 318i for 03 325i. Absolutely must have dependable car for daily commute. Live too far from dealer to be taking to shop for other than routine scheduled maintenance. Is the tiptronic tranny dependable in the long run (well over 100,000 miles)? Are Xenons budget busters when they go bad? I really like the BMW driving experience, better than anything else I have ever owned, but dependality is prabably the most important issue in the long run, me being an ordinary American of somewhat limited financial means. Appreciate any input from those who have some experience with the newer model in question. Thanks. Blacki.

div2

A nice E36 is tough to beat from a performance/value standpoint. I bet you'll hit 250K.

brave1heart

<<< Is the tiptronic tranny dependable in the long run (well over 100,000 miles)?>>>
==> No.

Are Xenons budget busters when they go bad?
==> ~ $1,000 or so on most luxury cars, including BMWs.

blacki

Well, thanks for the feedback, Brave1heart. Cryptic and to the point. Maybe I should be looking a Honda or Toyota, but they just dont give me the same satisfaction behind the wheel. Can't go with standard tranny, wife does a lot of the driving and struggles with the manual shift (not just a little bit) I thought the shiftronic might be an accptable compromise, but dependability issues being what they are...

Thought about another "Subbie" but they are slugs off the line with the auto tranny til the turbo spools up. Like the Infinity G35 but poor fuel economy turned me away from that one. 159 miles to the nearest Audi dealer, etc., etc.

Maybe we should just keep the 318i til the wheels fall off as was my original intention, but it's starting to have issues at only 125,000 miles. Have to make a decision soon, the 318i is in the shop at present and the BMW financing rate for CPO's of the 03 vintage is quite attractive, plus they will make the first 2 payments per an incentive that came out April 1. Hummm.

bdr127

Are Xenons budget busters when they go bad?
==> ~ $1,000 or so on most luxury cars, including BMWs.

By "go bad", did the original poster mean the bulb burns out or the whole headlamp assembly stops working?