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A BMW club drive on the penninsula on Saturday, and then after a whirlwind detail session on my E30, the picnic on Sunday in Issaquah. Over 160 E30's showed up!
Here are some picnic photos from Sunday.
http://www.carspace.com/fedlawman/?50@@.59a5ca48
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I am looking at buying a high milage 03 330i 5 sp., just under 60,000 miles. It is an original owner car with good history.
Any words of advice?
However, I really want to run good all-seasons instead of performance. Where I live we get enough snow to make performance rubber undriveable, but not enough snow to make going to winter tires worthwhile. My preliminary plan is to buy two more 17X7.5 68M rims and go with 225/45s on all corners. Any ideas on how that might work on the 330Ci with SP? Will it cause any problems with the suspension? I realize the handling won't be the same, but if it goes down to excellent from superb I will be happy. I am sorry if I sound like an idiot, but truth is I am when it comes to these things! Any advise is appreciated.
MD
Thanks for the tip.
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
It is funny though, as much as BMW says we don't want 4cyl cars here in the US, try and find a Club Sport, 318ti SPort PAckage w/ manual transmission, or any 318i/is with a stick.
I've got an ix question for you. From reading ROUNDEL month after month I notice the editors side more with the "older" BMWs, The E30s, E28s, E34s, 2002s... Many citing the "older" BMWs are lighter, easier to work on, more durable, and less complex than today's E46, E90, E60 computer controlled machines. Why does it seem like all of the sudden (last few months) that they all seem to want an E30 325ix?
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Wrong! What I really dig are all those groovy illuminated skulls...
It is funny though, as much as BMW says we don't want 4cyl cars here in the US, try and find a Club Sport, 318ti Sport Package w/ manual transmission, or any 318i/is with a stick.
The M42/M44 engine fitted to those cars makes a healthy amount of power- above 3500 rpm. Fit the car with a slushbox and the car does feel a bit slow. Just like driving the stick and shifting at or before 4000 rpm. On the other hand, keep the little four-banger on the boil and you'll be pleasantly surprised at how quick it can get down the road. A while back I encountered a doofus redneck in a late 80's Mustang 5.0 Convertible who was sure he could beat me from a 50 mph roll. And he would have if he'd had enough sense to downshift from his overdriven fifth gear. His loss. Literally :P
From reading ROUNDEL month after month I notice the editors side more with the "older" BMWs, The E30s, E28s, E34s, 2002s... Many citing the "older" BMWs are lighter, easier to work on, more durable, and less complex than today's E46, E90, E60 computer controlled machines. Why does it seem like all of the sudden (last few months) that they all seem to want an E30 325ix?
Well, the E46 and E90 have been pretty well received by most of the Roundel staff. Calabrese is lusting after a new M Coupe, Marx is drooling over the 335, and Miller special ordered an E46 before the end of production. Satch would kill for an M5, I think. Still, count me among the members of the Cult of the ix; that car was an elegant bit of engineering. It featured a Ferguson/ZF viscous coupling in the transfer case and in the rear differential. The couplings quickly and progressively allocated power to the axle/wheel with the most traction. There was no electronic traction assist(although the ix ABS unit was a bit more sophisticated than the system used in other E30s). Like the current X cars, the ix had a rear biased static power distribution, in this case 37%F/63%R. The ix proved to be an amazing car in inclement conditions. If I needed to make serious time in severe winter weather, a 325ix would still be my first choice.
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1 owner and a well documented history is a good start. You should take the car to a BMW tech that is not affiliated with the seller in any way and have them look it over thoroughly. It may be the best $50 you've spent ;o)
I drove behind a new M5 for a few miles on a country road tonight. It sounded incredible - a cross between a Modena and a jet plane I guess. And that was at 40 mph
Best Regards,
Shipo
abfisch
The other bidder has bid twice, and has done business with the seller in the past.
Interesting...
Best Regards,
Shipo
I saw a pre-production M6 Convertible 2 weeks ago. It was all black with no M badges, but had the quad tail pipes, killer sound of the BMW V10, & Vehicle MFR plates from Jersey on it. BMW NA's HQ is about 20 minutes from where I live.
I dig the new M coupe. The 3 coupes always look great (imo). I'm really excited for the turbo engine in the upcoming 335i. I used to own a Saab and became a huge fan of forced induction.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Preludesare greatcars. Am I the only person who thinks the Ford Fusion stylist essentially designed a Prelude sedan?
I'm really excited for the turbo engine in the upcoming 335i. I used to own a Saab and became a huge fan of forced induction.
The BMW turodiesels are also amazing. I can't wait till they start selling them over here.
I think turbos go against BMW's tradition of high-revving, naturally-aspirited engines. Didn't they stop making turbos back in the '70s? From what I've read, the main purpose of the 335 is to offer 8-cyl performance with the fuel economy of a 6-cyl... I'd take an 8-cyl of a turbo 6-cyl... Let's see how they get around the turbo lag and turbo lack of reliability.
BMW offered the 2002 Turbo in 1974 and the 745i in the 1980's. Neither one made it across the pond except as gray market imports. The 2002 Turbo was killed by the first "gas crisis", while the 745i(a turbocharged 3.5 liter "big six") was replaced by the E32 750i V12 in 1988.
Let's see how they get around the turbo lag and turbo lack of reliability.
Turbo lag isn't much of a problem these days, but it sure was for the '02 Turbo-you had to floor the loud pedal @2 seconds before you clipped the apex :surprise: As far as their reliability goes, water cooled bearings and synthetic oil have greatly extended the average life of turbochargers, but you still really have to consider a turbo to be a consumable long-term maintenance item.
The Fusion does look like a Prelude sedan. The headlights look like they come from my car (5th generation Preludes 97-01) & the rear looks like it came from the 4th generation Preludes (92-96).
I think Tirbos have gotten a lot more reliable. Mfrs are constantly looking for ways to reduce or elimiate Turbo-Lag. As far as forced induction goes, I think Turbos would last a lot longer and put less strain on an engine than a Supercharger.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
As for turbos, they're almost as old as the automobile. The technology is more than perfected. People in the US forget that european manufacturers have been producing turbo-powered cars for decades and decades. Half the cars sold in europe are diesel and thus turbo too.
With my recent clutch replacement, new exhaust, and the best of all SIRIUS radio (Howard Rules) it still puts a smile on my face every time I turn the key. I'm very happy with my Prelude.
BTW, Howard streams live over the internet for SIRIUS subscribers. Let me know if you want to give him a listen blueguy.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
I know about Stern and thanks for the offer. A buddy at work told me. A Sirius radio is sitting on my desk at work - I haven't signed up yet. I've gone 7 months without him and I'm not sure I want another random bill. I'll probably decide the second week of July (I assume stern is off for July 4 week).
Actually, a "turbo" is a supercharger in auto engineering terms, and when they first started to appear on passenger cars they were called "turbo-superchargers" to differentiate them from belt-driven superchargers. This term was later shortened to "turbocharger" and finally just to "turbo". In any case, BMW claims to have all but eliminated turbo lag on the 335 by using two small turbos instead of one larger one, making them much quicker to spool up.
But for what it's worth, the only major out-of-pocket repair expense that I had on my Audi A4 1.8T was a turbo-related parts replacement that cost me about $450 just a few months before I sold the car. I would also not try to get away with using anything less than the top-grade gas on a turbocharged car, as the main idea of supercharging is to cram more mix into the cylinders, which raises the pressure and thus requires a higher octane rating.
gordon: I had an '00 Saab 9-3 (Turbo/Slushbox) that I drove HARD for the 3 years/36,000 miles I leased it for. I lived in the city on the Upper West Side and used to floor the car and spool up the Turbo when the engine was still cold (even in the freezing winter temps) to get on to the Westside Highway in the AM. Ran it on Premium gas (noticed a BIG loss of power with 87) and used regualr dino juice for oil. No problems:) I'd hate to be the person who bought it after me though
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Also, the BMW dealer tells me the car's rear brakes need new pads and rotors. The same dealer told me in March I needed to replace my brake fluid, it was dirty. I told them they had just replaced it a few months earlier at their recommendation and asked how could it possibly get dirty so quickly. The SA then suggested I wait until my routine scheduled service visit in the summer to replace it.
I took it in today to change the oil, radiator fluid and other routine maintenance items including the brake fluid. This time they tell me the brake fluid change is not needed, however, I need new rear brakes. Given their inconsistency in diagnosis, I am skeptical about this. In the past, and without exception, all my cars needed the front brakes replaced first. I have had several cars that never needed the rear brakes replaced. Are the rear brakes on this model more prone to wear and need for replacement?
Your car has wear sensors to indicate when your brake pads need replacing, but they aren't foolproof. You might want to remove your rear wheels and see how much pad material is remaining for yourself.
Correct. Street driven BMWs require a brake fluid change every two years- using a DOT 4 fluid only! A car that sees more than a couple of track events per year should have the fluid changed every six months.
Where do you live? The PS2's limit your driving to above freezing with no ice or snow on the roads. I use 18" Michelin Pilot Sports April to December and have 17" Dunlop M3's for the winter on stock wheels. The Michelin PS and PS2 are amazing tires for grip. You have to go to an R-compound for better. Downside is that they wear fast (<20k) and you shouldn't drive on them in northern winters.
Thanks
Specifically I’m looking for a clean 2001 330i (3/01 or later production), premium package, sport package, manual, no mods/upgrades/additions, leather, with 60K miles or less and a complete service history and clean CarFax.
I’ve looked over the differences between the 2001 before and after the mid-year change (hence the 3/01 or later production I’m looking for). How can you find the build date? Is it labeled somewhere on the car itself? Can you tell from the VIN?
Are there any “gotchas” I should be looking out for? What work should have been done to a 2001 330i by 60K miles, other than the inspections I and II? What should I expect over the next 30K miles or so (tie rods, control arms, ball joints, etc). Just trying to get an idea of what I’m getting myself into.
I’ve been looking at eBay, AutoTrader, e46 Fanatics, and KBB to get a feeling for prices. Does $17K sound reasonable for everything I’ve listed?
Once found (and driven), I’d review the service records and take it to an independent BMW shop for an inspection. I’ve looked for the standard maintenance schedule for this model (so I can make sure it was followed), but I haven’t been able to find it. Can anyone point me to it somewhere, or even better, a PDF of the manual and maintenance schedule?
Stupid question: If I buy a car out of state (I’m in southern NH) and drive it home, how do I get temp plates – the local DMV for the state I’m buying in? What if I pick it up on a weekend?
Thanks in advance,
The noob
Unfortunately, I live where it snows so perhaps I'll pass on the PS and PS2s. I have no spare garage space to store 4 wheels and tires for winter. All available space has been consumed by my other addiction, golf.
I own a 2002 330i that I bought new. I love the car and intend to keep it as long as it is reasonably reliable, after which I will buy another new 330i. That said I would think long and hard before buying a used BMW out of warranty. My car came with free maintenance for 3yrs/36k miles. Once that expired, the scheduled yearly service visits, of which there have been two were $330 & $480 at the dealership. Also, I have averaged one unscheduled service visit per year. Nothing major, but I felt comfortable knowing the car was under warranty.
These cars are not inexpensive to maintain and repair. I take mine to the local BMW dealer, which I am sure is the most expensive route but there is no BMW specialty shop near my home and I am not going to let just any mechanic work on my car. I had to leave my car at the dealership overnight twice - they tell me these are complicated cars that are not always easy to fix, especially those intermittent electronic gremlins.
That said, the 330i is a great car - a joy to drive and own. Good luck with your search.
I'm aware that BMWs (or any German car, really) aren't cheap to keep out of warranty. I plan to use this as a part-time daily driver (I also have a 2006 Lexus), so if it needs to go down for a little TLC I can still get to work.
From what I've read, they over-boosted the steering, but after the mid-year update they brought the boost level back down and provided a retrofit kit to "correct" it for those that didn't like it.
There is an independent BMW shop near me (thanks for the link, Shipo!), so that will help.
Thanks again for the info.
It's not too bad compared to any other make. Part cost is never the problem, it's always labor. Just develop a relationship with a local inde shop.
As for steering retrofit, unless you drive the 2 cars back to back, it's hard to notice the difference. When BMW brought the boost level down, it still wasn't as low as it used to be.
I would recommend you do 1 mod when you get your 01 330i. Replace the clutch line to get rid of CDV.
That's what I've read as well. It may be tough to find one with and one without boost, but it would be interesting to compare the two.
Replace the clutch line to get rid of CDV.
Already planned.
FWIW, I am going on 100K miles in my '01 325i, which has seen heavy track and autocross use. The car has been very reliable. I've had both front window regulators replaced and 3 sensors, that's about it for non-scheduled maintenance (excluding various interior rattles, creaks, weatherstripping, etc. minor stuff). Great cars!
That's what I've read as well.
I'm realling looking forward to finding one! I hope it happens soon.