BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

ed325i2002

After nearly six years of great performance my car will turn over but won't start....minutes after starting and running fine. Any ideas of simple ways I can drive the car to a garage rather than have them tow it? Also, can anyone recommend an indpt BMW shop in the the Tempe, AZ, area?

Thanks and best w ishes,

Ed

breakneckz

Anybody have a clue about this??
I wrote a while ago about an icessant and annoying whistling type sound emanating from what sounds like the top of my driver side door/window when driving above 50 mph or in windy conditions....
Last Monday I took car to bmw dealer and they kept car for about 24 hrs checking out the problem...they replaced the door seals along the frame of both the driver/passenger side doors....i paid nothing!!! MUCH appreciated!!
Today however, the sound is back!!!
ANY ADVICE?? Anybody else with an E46 coupe recognize this problem/issue??
Thanks!

kominsky

When you close the door, is the window sealing? Going back up that 1/4" (or whatever it is) that it drops when the door is opened?

I have a rattle in my passenger side window that can be "cured" by dropping the window just a smidge. It works fine for the bumpy country roads around my house but when I get on the highway, I have to put the window all way back up or it whistles like crazy.

nyccarguy

So every Sunday AM during breakfast I scour the local newspaper's "Wheels" section to check out what cars are being offered in the screamer ads and the classifieds. There's a section entitled "deals on wheels" escpecially for cars $5000 & under. I see most of the same cars sit there for weeks at a time, but BMWs seem to be gone by the next week. So this morning I see an ad for a 1990 BMW 325i, red, $695. Maybe it is a misprint, maybe the car has 4 million miles, there's got to be a catch. So I ripped the guy's ad out and put it in my wallet. I figured I would give the guy a call and go and take a look this afternoon while my 18 month old son takes a nap (we went to the Circus today, So I knew he'd be out for a while).

I call the guy up. I ask him what the deal is with the $695 car. He says he bought it for his grandson last year, but when the kid got his license his Dad bought him a new car so he never gave the car to his grandson. He tells me the car has an Automatic and 84,000 miles. I figured even if it was a slushbox, for that price I could have a manual tranny swapped in and still have awesome car.

So I drove to check the car out. It wasn't that bad for a $695 car, but it definitely showed more than its 84,000 miles. From 5 feet away, the car looked nice. Red with Black interior. The paint shined. Upon closer inspection, the passenger door was dented and there were scratches and cracks all over the body. But hey it was a $695 car. The Roundels were faded & cracked on the hood and the trunk. The "bottle cap" wheels were in bad shape. The front 2 looked like they were rusted. He started the car up and it fired up right away. The seats were in great shape.

The engine idled very rough. The glove box was broken. The heat and AC didn't work (compressor or fans), nor did the power windows.

I thanked the guy for his time and drove off without even asking to drive the car. It is a cheap car, but seems like I'd have to pour a decent chunk of change to get it back to its old self.

fedlawman

You shoulda bought it. :surprise:

Heck, if I had a week to spare for a cross-country drive, I'd buy it.

nyccarguy

For real? Or are you just pulling my leg? You think it is worth having my mechanic take a look at it tomorrow if it is still available?

roadburner

I would have bought it too. Anyway, you did say you wanted to learn how to wrench on your own car, right? The E30 is a pretty simple machine.

nyccarguy

I do want to learn how to work on cars. I'll give the guy a call tomorrow and see if the car's still available. I'll have my mechanic go over there and check it out.

fedlawman

No, I wasn't kidding. I wouldn't pay a mechanic to look it over either - it'll cost almost as much as the car is worth. If you really want to start wrenching on cars, roadburner is right, the E30 is simple and well built - the perfect learning platform.

Really, for $695 who cares what's wrong with it? Buy an E30 Bentley manual and just go to town. Buy cheap tools from Harbor Freight as you go.

Warning, the downside to going down this path is if you lose even a little control, you may soon have shelves stacked with spare parts and a smattering of E30's in various states of disassembly scattered around your property. Buyer beware... :P

roadburner

Warning, the downside to going down this path is if you lose even a little control, you may soon have shelves stacked with spare parts and a smattering of E30's in various states of disassembly scattered around your property. Buyer beware...

When I was restoring my Bavaria 3.0 I picked up a running parts car for $250. I sold the shocks(rusty but otherwise good Bilsteins, the engine and tranny, the pedal cluster and a bunch of other stuff for @$750. The parts I used on my car would have cost around $400 at the dealer. I left the poor hulk up on jackstands by a garage out on the farm for a few years(no neighbors to complain) and my wife always said the place looked like Yuppie Appalachia...

nyccarguy

So I sent the guy an email last night and called him back this morning to see if ther car was still available. He said he has a few people who put a bid in on the car. He asked if I was still interested and how much I was willing to pay for the car. I told him $900 (still cheap) for an E30 car with only 84,000 miles. He said he'd get back to me today (he hasn't & I spoke with him at 11:00 AM) either way. I followed up with an email tonight before dinner (8:00 PM) and hope to hear back from him tomorrow. This car will either be known as the gem or the one that got away. I'm thinking positive. It will be mine!

nyccarguy

So I get a call from Ray (the guy selling the 84K mile '90 E30) this morning. We exchange pleasantries and he asks me if I got his email. I tell him no, because we don't have computers at work (I think my Dad is allergic to computers). He goes on to tell me that he was contacted by a guy from Philadelphia who is willing to give him $1100 for the car. Then he tells me the guy isn't returning nay of his phone calls or emails. He then asks if I'm still interested in the car. I tell him I am. He tells me I cxan have it if I still want it. He then asks if I can give him $1000 because he put some money into the car to fix it up. I tell him we'll settle at $950 and be done with it. We agree. I'm going to drive the car tomorrow and hopefully pick it up! Wish me luck!

fedlawman

$950 for a 325i with 84,000 miles!!! Nicely done.

roadburner

I agree. Good job!

nyccarguy

I now officially am the owner of a 1990 E30 BMW 325iA 2 Door. I got the title and insurance today. My lovely, beautiful, and adoring wife is going to the DMV tomorrow AM to get plates. I'm going to pick the car up after work on Saturday.

I drove the car today. The steering feel is remarkable. Decent pickup from the I6/slushbox combo. I'm really excited!

I'll post pictures Saturday on my carspace page.

fedlawman

Congrats!

First things first. Buy the E30 Bentley Manual and start planning some initial work. The easy stuff you should do right away - oil/filter change, spark plugs, and fuel filter. I'd also change the engine coolant and flush the brakes, transmission, and differential. Check the brake pads and rotors, and fully inspect the suspension (bushings, ball joints, control arms, end links, shocks/springs/mounts) and the brake pads and rotors.

For the rough idle, I'd check the distributor, ignition wires, AFM, and O2 sensor as possible culprits.

Replace the timing belt ASAP.

This "tech sheet" will serve as a really good checklist for you to use to make sure you don't miss anything...

http://www.bmwpugetsound.com/track_tech_sheet.pdf

These cars are built like tanks and the engine is bulletproof. Once you get everything freshened up, you'll be good for many 1,000's of miles.

bdkinnh

.... and it begins.

If you know anything about Star Wars, picture the Emperor in your garage saying "Come to the Dark Side....."

nyccarguy

the car! My poor wife (and our 18 month old son) had ot go to the DMV 3 times yesterday to try and get plates for my E30 & have it registered in my name. They were unsuccessful. I went this AM to the DMV, got the plates and the registration. I went to work late (one of the many benefits of having your Dad as the Boss). I'm going tomorrow after work to pickup the car.

I kind of had a plan to do maintenance first, then fix problems (glove box, power windows, heat/ac fan), then start cosmetic upgrades. Obviously this won't be an overnight thing, but give me a couple of years Once the car runs good and all the dash lights are off, the first thing I'm going to do (have done) is a tranny swap.

Fedlawman: My automotive fixing credentials include changing flat tires, changing headlight bulbs, changing the tail light assembly on wifey's '07 X3, changing the air filter, and swapping out new wiper arms. I've read good things about this Bentley Manual. Is it a "complete idiot's giude to..." or is it very tech oriented?

I've got a 3/8" socket set & 6 in 1 screwdriver. How far will that get me & what else will I need?

THanks in advance for everybody's help!

kyfdx

I've got a 3/8" socket set & 6 in 1 screwdriver. How far will that get me & what else will I need?

That... and a friend with a full set of tools is all you will need..

fedlawman

The Bentley manual is pretty easy to understand - and it has photographs in it to show you what's going on. The biggest complaint with it is the photos show a brand new car, so there's no dirt, grime, or anything aftermarket - your car will look a little different than the one in the photos.

Otherwise, if you have basic wrench turning ability, you'll be fine. These cars are very simple - removing and replacing components is easy. Only the number of tools in your shed (and access to a lift) will limit what you can do. The most difficult part of servicing these cars yourself is usually going to relate to issues such as getting leverage to remove stuck bolts in tight spaces, having to run to the store to buy a 25mm socket that you need for just one job, etc.

Have a torque wrench that reads past 100 lb ft - the Bentley gives you all the torque specs you'll need for every job. Also, you'll want a nice long breaker bar with a swiveling head, some socket extensions, and some 1/2" and 3/8" socket adapters.

Again, you don't need Snap-On tools for this work. Just buy cheap tools individually as need them. Harbor Freight Tools is your friend here...

http://www.harborfreight.com/

Then get to know Bavarian Autosport and Pelican Parts...

http://www.bavauto.com/

http://www.pelicanparts.com/bmw/catalog/3-Series_Main.htm

And if you like, here's another good book I use next to the Bentley Manual...

http://www.amazon.com/Performance-Projects-1982-2000-Motorbooks-Workshop/dp/0760- - 326959/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&s=books&qid=1208012187&sr=8-1

nyccarguy

I picked the car up after work yesterday. Its previous owner told me to let him know when it is all done. I even had my first mishap with it. I brought it home, my wife, son, & in-laws were waiting for me in front of my apt building. They're all checking out the car and telling me all good things. Then when it was time to go upstairs,,,,DEAD! The car won't start, no clicking, but the gauges started to work and I could hear the fuel pump whirring. So I pushed the car into a parking spot, & then it started right up! There's some kind of cockamamie alarm that I have got to disconnect! I'll list the positives and then go through what I saw needs help.

The car fires right up when I turn the key.
The Inline 6 Sings.
Acceleration is decent.
The view outside the car is panoramic. There are no blind spots on this car!
Steering is very direct.

The car obviously has some electrical issues. The power windows don't work. The Tachometer doesn't work (but the speedo & odometer function perfectly). The power mirrors don't work. The steering wheel is cocked off center. The steering wheel shakes at 60 mph & over. The fan from the heater/AC doesn't work.

I've got my work cut out for me!

roadburner

The view outside the car is panoramic. There are no blind spots on this car!

That's one thing I really hate about modern cars; the A, B, and C pillars are so thick that they can almost hide a Greyhound Bus.

The car obviously has some electrical issues.

The first order of business is to ashcan any aftermarket alarms. Most installers aren't familiar with BMWs and the butchered installations cause all sorts of problems.

The power windows don't work.

I forget where it is on an E30, but there is a circuit breaker that can be reset. Is there a button on the dash or console that has a red line showing around the base?
If so, push it in and see if the windows work. Other possibilities are the fuses and the main electrical connector at the door(s), which could be loose or corroded.

The Tachometer doesn't work (but the speedo & odometer function perfectly).

Probably bad batteries on the SI board or (more likely) the SI board itself. You have to pull the instrument cluster to replace it but it's a fairly easy job if you take your time.

The power mirrors don't work.

Either a fuse or-as with the windows-the main electrical connector at the door is wonky.

The steering wheel is cocked off center.

An alignment can fix that, but it's also possible that the wheel was pulled and reinstalled by someone who didn't notice the index marks on both the wheel and the steering shaft.

The steering wheel shakes at 60 mph & over.

Bushings, tie rod ends, wheel balance, or all of the above...

The fan from the heater/AC doesn't work.

Fuse, switch, or fan motor.

nyccarguy

I ordered the E30 Bentley Manual last night from Amazon. I can't wait to get going!

circlew

Since you are close to me, I will hire you as my new mechanic! I know after you gussy up this new baby of yours, you'll be certifiable!!

Regards,
OW

newbuyer30

Hate to post this, it's so dumb...but it is driving me crazy!

I have a 2004 330i sedan and above the rear doors are these handles that have these "hooks". I think these hooks are for hanging your dry-cleaning, but I can't get these hooks to open (extend) so I can hang my dry-cleaning. I can't find anything in the manual nor on the forums.

Anyone?

Thanks.

circlew

I hang mine on the handles...hooks are way too small.

Regards,
OW

kominsky

In my '01 coupe, you just push up on the closed hook (the side towards the center of the car) and the hook pops open. Did you try that?

newbuyer30

Okay, this has turned from a stupid silly question to a stupid silly person....

After trying for about 5 minutes--pushing up, down, in, out on the hook and as well as on the handle--I still can't get it to pop open. By the way, thanks kominsky for at least telling me that it pops open...I wasn't sure.

So if I were to face the handle, the hook should be pushed straight up towards the ceiling and then out towards me (towards the center of the car)?

It's shameful that I even have a mechanical engineering degree...shameful!

bdkinnh

It doesn't say "Airbag" on it by any chance, does it?

Sorry - couldn't resist.

kominsky

I was just looking through a sedan brochure and I think I may have led you astray... from what I can tell, the layout is different between the coupe and sedan. I don't have the handles back there and my hanger hook pops down out of the roof. It looks like the sedan has something attached to the handle, but the pics aren't clear on what exactly it is. Hopefully someone with a sedan can shed more light on this.

hgeyer

I think you're right. I have a 2002 E46 sedan. I have a small hook that's attached to the handle. After 6 years of ownership, I thought I had missed something and tried to pop the hook out this past weekend. It doesn't move. It's very small and I've always used the handle to hang dry cleaning.

nyccarguy

So I actually had some time this afternoon to work on my project 1990 E30 325i. I go an pick up some Mobil 1 15w 40 Synthetic and a Torque Wrench. My brother-in-law gave me a filter and some 5w 40 Synthetic for my birthday. I'm all excited to change the oil on my car. I go to start the car up to move it to a less conspicuos parking spot (technically I'm not suppoed to work on cars in the parking lot of my condo complex). Nothing! That stupid starter kill on the alarm won't let the car fire up. I know it isn't the battery because when I turn the key, the gauges spring to life and I hear the fuel pump whirring. Fine, I don't care if anybody says anything. This looks like a good spot :P

I tried to loosen the drain plug with my 3/8" ratchet set and 17mm socket for a while and it wouldn't budge :mad: . I'll have to try again sometime next week. In the meantime I sprayed some WD40 on the drain plug. The simplest thing can be so frustrating sometimes!

Tonight I decided that I was going to get the car started. I found part of the alarm and ripped it out. The car fired right up!

kominsky

Working on a car of that age with questionable maintenance done on it, it might not be a bad idea to invest in a +2ft breaker bar. With that much extra torque, though, be super careful you're turning in the correct direction. I picked one up for a couple of bucks at a flea-market a few years back. The quality is questionable, but it has always performed the task at hand when dis-assembling stuff on my '79 CJ5. If you get one, never, EVER, use it for tightening!

Another option is heat, but for me, as an amateur, that option scares me and I've never personally used it.

circlew

Warm up the car first and then try loosening the drain plug. Use a 6-point socket as opposed to 12-point. Be careful of the hot oil.

Regards,
OW

nyccarguy

OK, so Saturday after work I make a concious decision to bring my 1990 325i down to the Speed & Sound shop (that I have trusted my 2001 Prelude to for its modifications) for them to rip out the alarm system completely. Every time I walk by the car, the lights are blinking and it is going to KILL :sick: the battery. I tell my wife we'll drop it off on our way to dinner. I hop in, turn the key....NOTHING. No fuel pump whir, just the fuel gauge springing to life. :mad:

Monday after work. Played with my son, put him to bed at 7:30, had dinner. Oh look, it is still light out. Let me go and jump start the car (trunk mounted battery is VERY convenient). Positive to Positive, Negative to Ground. Fire up the Prelude, rev the engine a bit. Hop in the BMW, a click, a hesitation, then VROOM the 18 year old Inline 6 comes to life. I drove the car around my condo complex for about 20 minutes to let the battery charge. The Temperature gauge started to get uncomfortably close to the right (HOT).

Today after work I go out to take the car over to Audio Visions. I get in, with my wife waiting ever so patiently in her '07 X3 , turn the key, and...NOTHING! OK, no problem. I'll just jump start it really quick, then drive it. Tried to start it again...NOTHING! I let it sit attached to my car for aout 5-10 minutes...Still NOTHING! :confuse: :mad: .

I'm convinced the car is possesed :P

memphis10

I own a 2003 BMW 325i. Took the car to the dealer for the 60,000 miles service. Dealer says that the front Lower Control Arm and bushings are worn out and needs to be replaced. Quoted me $1200. Was thinking of going to an independent mechanic. Any recommendation on a mechanic in Fairfield County Connecticut / Westchester County NY? is $1200 reasonable for this repair?

roadburner

The LCAs and bushings will run @$700. Labor costs depend on the local area. If you are a BMW CCA member I would check with local chapter members and see who they recommend

peterock

I need to replace my wifes `92 volvo740T wagon. It has 175Kmiles and I'm not going to mess w/ the AC repair (aka money pit) and that is a deal breaker for the little lady.
I found a $10K 2000 323iT auto w/ 65K, premium pkg, all maint. records included, good shape, etc. that seems to fit our needs but it is 500 miles from my home.
What should I watchout for when I go test drive it?

nyccarguy

I've seen this '05 E46 325xi with 49K & a stick for sale in the paper by one of these mega dealerships....They're asking $10,995 for a BMW still under factory warranty!

roadburner

What should I watchout for when I go test drive it?

If you don't know BMWs, you should really have the car inspected by a qualified BMW tech. At 65K you are probably looking at a water pump in the near future, but that job is pretty simple. Check to see if all the power windows work. As for the maintenance history, was the DOT4 brake fluid changed evert two years? Coolant every three, using BMW Coolant ONLY? Has the ATF ever been changed? What were the oil change intervals and what oil was used? The E46 3ers are pretty durable overall, and they are common enough that you should only consider well-maintained cars.

nyccarguy

I did some digging on the NY Chapter's BMWCCA website and found a place to have my '90 E30 325iA checked out & serviced. The place used to be a BMW dealer and was actually where my BMW was originally purchased (I know because they're badge is still on the back of the car).

I had AAA come and jump the car and it fired right up. I'm going to have the indie shop align the car, take care of the electrical problems, and check the car out to make sure it is safe for me to start driving on a regular basis. I'll let you know what they come up with.

nyccarguy

So I'm thinking of aborting project BMW. As I posted above, I drove my 1990 E30 325iA to a very reputable indie mechanic to deal with its alignment, electrical issues, and general well being. Well, I got a call this morning. They told me the power steering pump (leaking) and hoses (cracked & leaking) need to be replaced, the driveshaft is cracked, the radiator is leaking (new radiator plus flush & fill)... and this is before they even tell me what's wrong with the electrical system (alarm?). $2500 + tax. I knew that I was going to have to sink some money into this car, but not this much right away. If it was going to be more of a gradual thing, then it might be easier to swallow.

I was a little bummed at first, but I am proud of myself that I actually went out on a whim and bought this car (not my style at all) in the first place. I'm trying to sell my condo and buy a house, so every last dollar counts. There will be another car one day down the road.

kyfdx

Not a bad call... if the car was a stick, I'd say stick with it.. (ok..sorry about that).. But, given that you'll have to drop a couple of grand to convert it at some point.. just try to get $500-$1000 out of it, and be done with it..

roadburner

Well that sure sucks. As for the PS pump, every BMW pump of that vintage seems to seep/leak a little bit. The radiator is no big surprise either. The cracked driveshaft has me a bit puzzled, however. I've seen them bent and with shot uniersals, but I've never seen a cracked one. Too bad you don't live close by; we could knock out that entire to-do list in a couple of weekends...

Mr_Shiftright

How do you crack a driveshaft? A puzzling diagnosis, that one.

Well you could do most of this work yourself--the radiator for instance, and the power steering lines. The pump might be a bit tougher.

I don't remember whether you said this was a pristine car or not. At the 1990 level, a BMWs value is based primarily on how it looks, not how it runs. If you had a battered 325 sedan that you paid $1,500 for, with dents, ripped upholstery and dinged up trim, and you put a brand new factory engine and transmission in it, you'd get about $1,500 for it.

So I'd base your decision on the current cosmetics, if you don't mind my two cents.

visiting host

nyccarguy

The transmission mount is broken and needs to be replaced. On top of that, the mechanic told me the car starts up every time they try :mad:

I only paid $950 for the car. It is a '90 325iA with 82,625 miles on it. The interior of the car is quite clean. The seats don't look anywhere near their 18 years of age. From 5-10 feet away the car actually looks decent. There are some scratches in the hood, and big dents in the 2 doors, and some dings on the lower rear bumper (looks from parallel parking).

Mr. Shiftright, I actually bought a Bentley Service manual with some aspirations of learning to work on the car myself. But my time is extremely limited by my 6 day a week job and my 20 month old son :P

roadburner, I know if you were even remotely closer you'd be over here. I appreciate that very much!

Like I said, with less than 100K miles on it, my E30 can last a lot longer. I really thought I'd have more time to devote to it. The money is a different issue, obviously we'd all like to have more

Thanks to everyone for your help & support!

fedlawman

I'm sorry to hear things didn't work out for you.

Yes, $2500 is a lot to swallow, but consider that if you were able to do it yourself, it would cost a lot less. Of course, that would require time that you don't have.

I feel a little bad for encouraging you to give it a go - I hope you'll try it again sometime when you have more free time to tinker. Maybe you can throw a rug over it and save it for when you kid is a teenager

nyccarguy

Like I said, I appreciate everyone's enthusiasm & encouragement. There's nothing to feel bad about. I have so many things going do well for me in my life that bring me so much joy right now. We took my son to his 1st Yankees game on Thursday afternoon, Friday night I went to the game with my Dad, Saturday we took my son for his first haircut & first ice cream cone. This E30 of mine that I bought just wasn't meant to be. I will try again some other time, with a different car.

I had so many daydreams and fantasies of the car when I bought it. That I would restore it to glory, have the slushbox swapped out, have it completely repainted, and give it to my son as his first car.

tnguyen74

I have an 03 325i that is making a slight buzzing electrical sounding noise under the hood. This happens a few seconds after start-up and at idle. It sometimes happens when the car is in motion. The reason I beleive I think it's the alternator is that my Accord had the same symptoms before the alternator went out. Anyone here have any signs or noises prior to the alternator going out? I really do not want to find out the hard way and be stranded on the road. Would an engine scan detect anything? How about autozone running any test without removing the alternator. Any help would be appreciated.

nyccarguy

Does anybody know how to post pics? Can I upload directly from my computer or do the files have to be on a sharing site?