BMW 3-Series 2005 and earlier

503bmw

SO WD40 SAFE ON PAINT ?

pat

Sounds like you are talking about removing an emblem that's been on the car 6+ years. You'll probably find that the paint has faded sufficiently around the emblem that you'll still have it in the form of a dfferent shade of paint. You may want to rethink this.

roadburner

In manual mode the steptronic automatic will upshift before the engine hits the redline. Likewise, the transmission will not allow a manual downshift until it is safe to do so-that is, a driver cannot cause a manual over-rev.

hgeyer

Try reading my messages numbered 29726 and 28446. I also have a 2002 (330i) and am happy with the results.

Now my question - Did BMW ever come out with a Bluetooth retrofit kit so that owners of older E46's could incorporate their modern phones. Pre-2003 required the 'special' BMW TDMA flip phone - now available only in museums.

bryncerdd

Mr. Shipman's comment emphasized that only three oils are acceptable for use in a BMW. I have heard the same from several sources, and I have no reason to doubt the verity of the information. In other words, I'm convinced!

But why? I understand these synthetic oils have a different base and therefore a chemical composition different from traditional oils, but what is it about that chemical base that makes such a great difference, or at least a difference sufficient to make their use necessary in BMW engines?

Mr. Shipman, that's your cue.

Thanks for any information you care to offer.

Regards,
Bryncerdd

shipo

Actually there are quite a few oils that are sold that meet the very specific BMW Long Life-01 oil specification; however, most of them aren't sold here in North America.

The BMW spec (which is very similar to the VW/Audi 503.01 oil spec) requires a very stable base oil that uses few if any viscosity improvers (VIs) to achieve required cold flow properties along with the required high RPM and high temperature properties. As far as I know, only the highest quality PAO is good enough to be used as a base for the three oils that we have available to us on this side of the pond.

Look at this from a different perspective and ask yourself the following questions:
- How many oils do you know of that are good to go, year round, in temperatures way down below zero through temperatures way above 100 degrees?
- How many oils do you know of that are good to go for as much as 19,000 miles (I have yet to hear of one of a late model BMW making it to the 20,000 mile mark before the OLM recommended an oil change) without an oil change?
- How many oils do you know of that can be driven at speeds well in excess of 100 mph, all day, every day, and not turn into sludge in short order?

The fact is that any convention oil (or "traditional oil" as you put it) you care to mention couldn't even come close to meeting the above criteria. Even semi-synthetic and hydro-cracked Group III synthetic oils aren't up to the task of surviving in the VW/Audi/BMW engines. As I understand it, even many fully PAO based Group IV synthetic oils cannot meet the test requirements for certification as either a BMW or a VW spec oil. Why? Probably many reasons. Aren't stable enough. Don't have enough sheer resistance. Don't last long enough. You name it.

To be sure, I don't know all of the ins and outs of the differences in chemical properties BMW LL-01 oils are from other PAO based synthetics, but I do know that there is a direct correlation between BMW LL-01 oils and VW 503.01 oils, and that both standards are very difficult to meet.

An interesting little bit of history regarding the evolution of the VW set of specs can be found here:

shipo, "Volkswagen Passat Oil Changes & Issues" #8, 10 Mar 2006 9:48 pm

BMW's oil specifications have seen a similar evolution; however, I don't have as much information on that history.

I hope this helps a bit. ;-)

Best Regards,
Shipo

erickpl

I appreciated your feedback about the iPod kits. The BMW we were looking at had NAV and a CD Changer. We ended up getting my daughter a 07 Jetta GLI with 2.0L Turbo and 6 speed manual (that's my girl!). It has everything she wants in a car - she hasn't asked for any mods - YET!

-Paul

bryncerdd

Shipo: Thanks for your information. This is a quest I hope to pursue; would be better were I a chemical engineer, but perhaps continued "digging" will prove fruitful.

Bryncerrd

rworrell

My understanding is that the 2OP warranty is almost identical to the CPO warranty (only difference I've seen is that CPO is for 6yrs/100K miles, whereas 2OP is 2yrs/50K miles from the expiration of your original warranty--a fine distinction). I have just a couple more questions:

1) Is there a $50 co-pay with 2OP work like there is with CPO? I assume so, but haven't heard officially.

2) I asked my dealer about certifying my current E46 330i (excellent condition, SMG, ~19K miles, and I run snow tires in the winter, so the tires shouldn't need replacement to get CPO'd) in August when the lease ends, then selling it back to me. His email reply was a little unclear on pricing, but it sounds to me like they are asking $1800 for CPO + $500 profit = $2300 total cost (plus the cost of tires or other non-covered work that might be needed). :surprise: That seems high to me, but the only other dealer in town wouldn't even give me an estimate--said it was "thousands" and that's all--refused to discuss it further. Assuming $2300 is correct (I'm awaiting his response), this is how the math looks to me:

Option CPO: have the dealer CPO, then buy it back at residual + 2300 + sales tax. I could then receive a $500 BMWCCA rebate for buying CPO. So, net cost of the warranty = ~$1800.

Option 2OP: buy the 2OP warranty for ~$1800.

If there's no real difference in the two other than the length of warranty (not a concern for me, as I have very low miles, so it will be 6yrs/100K), getting it CPO'd seems like a lot of rigmarole and the only upside is whatever quality detailing job the dealer does--is that right? Any advice? Thanks!

kyfdx

As far as I can tell, the 2OP warranty is identical to the CPO warranty in all respects... even the term..

While the wording makes it look like the years/mileage coverage is different, it really isn't..

When you buy it, the additional coverage lasts until 6 years from the original in-service date, or 100K total vehicle miles. You use your normal warranty while it is effective, then the extended warranty, once the original has expired.

If they will sell you the 2OP warranty for $1800, then I'd definitely go with that... but, if you have to go to the dealer for service, I'd want to purchase the extended maintenance plan as well (around $1000-$1100).

regards,
kyfdx

rworrell

Thanks, kyfdx--I was hoping you'd respond. There is an excellent BMW-only indie nearby; I was hoping to use the warranty for actual problems with the dealer, but use the indie for routine maintenance. As little as I drive, I don't think I'd get my money's worth out of the maintenance warranty from BMW.

kyfdx

If your indie mechanic is that good, and you don't drive a lot, I'm not sure I would pay $1800 for only two years of coverage.. It is really hard to separate warranty work from other general repair and maintenance. Add in the $50 deductible, and I think I would take my chances.

rworrell

Good point. I really like them, as they're very active with the local BMWCCA chapter and have been fair with me in the past on work. My only concern is the SMG transmission--I love it and it's been problem-free for me...but that's a complex clutch mechanism on that car!

What kind of pushed me toward it was your (edmunds.com) TCO--IIRC, they estimate a little over $1K/yr for E46 3 Series in years 5 & 6. At an average of $900/yr, it didn't seem like a bad deal. Of course, as I'm writing this I'm thinking of two things:

1) Edmunds.com estimate might have been for both maintenance and warranty
2) Guaranteeing $1800 in expense to avoid a potential $2000 in expense isn't that smart of a gamble

503bmw

i have some eibach springs that lowers about 1 inch, i think its the eibach pro lowering spring kit, and just wondering if it would be any problem if i just throw the springs on? or would it be better if i just wait and get the complete suspension kit first? and also i have some rims that are 19x9.5, would it rub?

roadburner

My only concern is the SMG transmission--I love it and it's been problem-free for me...but that's a complex clutch mechanism on that car!

I'm looking at an E46 M3 with SMG, and my BMW sources tell me that the system is pretty reliable. It's essentially a manual with electro-hydraulic actuation of the clutch and shift rails.

fedlawman

Hmmm, an automatic 325i that you want to debadge, lower, and install 19" rims?

I suppose you already have these...

fedlawman

Couldn't resist...

Seriously though, the 19" diameter is no problem, but the 9.5" width might be. You may need to roll the fenders - or better yet - find some nice 17X8 or 18X8 wheels instead.

rworrell

rb: Thanks for a positive vote. I've never had a single problem with the tranny and I suspected it might be more reliable than an automatic (which on BMWs are notorious for failing), because every shift is basically perfect.

With my low miles and the service history of the car, I think it would be a safe bet to save the $1800 and keep my fingers crossed (with proper maintenance, of course!).

roadburner

rb: Thanks for a positive vote. I've never had a single problem with the tranny and I suspected it might be more reliable than an automatic (which on BMWs are notorious for failing), because every shift is basically perfect.

At the press launch of the E36 M3 SMG BMW claimed that the clutch disc could possibly last the life of the car because of the precise nature of the shifts. I've heard that's not exactly true in the case of the current M5 and M6... :surprise:
As for the slushboxes, I'm a member of a couple of E39(5er) and E83(X3) lists. The MTBF of the autoboxes isn't near as bad as some would have you believe. If the ATF is changed every 60K-100K miles the automatics will usually last at least 150K-250K miles. Of course, a number of early E46 boxes had a penchant for losing reverse, but overall the slushboxes aren't that problematic. Knock on wood

503bmw

LOL
HELL FREAKIN NO!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

circlew

Unless there is a known defect or abuse/neglect, most A/T's should not be a problem. Change ATF/Filter as recommended and ride on! Just hold off on the power-brake stuff at your local drag strip!

Regards,
OW

tnguyen74

I have an 03 325i and yesterday I went to start it and the accesories and electronics turned on but the engine did not crank. First assumption is usually the battery or the starter. I than asked my wife for her key and the car started right up. My key would sometimes work and sometimes not. Has anyone else experience this? Has it something to do with the anti-theft system or just a key issue? I sure hope that is is only a key programming issue and nothing else. I'm kinda scared to drive the car even with the good key b/c of the possibility of being stranded somewhere. If it is the key than I will get a new one or have it reprogrammed. The key however still can lock/unlock and turn on power to the car.

On another note when I purchased the car I requested a secondary key and when I received it did not look new but a used one from another car. Perhaps they reprogrammed the key from another car for this one (Car keys are too fancy nowadays) and it is flaky.

tcn2k

So my rubber trim around the windows is looking a bit dull. Can anyone suggest any product that lasts through washes?

I was recommended autosol Gummy Pfliege. First wash it with dawn to get rid of existing grime and then put this gummy pfliege on. They say it should last through several washes. Anyone used this product before?

kominsky

"I've never crawled around an E46. Let me know how it works out."

I finally made the time to swap out the rear rotors. They were a piece of cake! There were no e-brake adjustments necessary, as you thought. Unlike the fronts, they just pulled off once the retaining screw was removed. No beating, cussing, etc. needed. The only hassle was routing the wear sensor wire. It went places I couldn't see well or had some trouble getting to... and that was merely a minor annoyance.

bryncerdd

I have had a similar problem with a MY 2000 328. The service rep first advised me that the key was faulty, and a new key would solve the problem. For about $160, a new key did not solve any problem. The ignition switch itself was faulty, and with that repair, things hae been fine for the last year. Keys are, indeed, getting more complicated, but I suggest you ask the service department of a BMW dealer to check the ignition switch before spending money on a key. Good luck.

Bryncerdd

armand

I was told there is no way to get XM install directly into the factory head unit. How did you do it?

Thanks

erickpl

We used an Alpine unit and had it wired into the factory antenna lead. So while it was technically using RF, it was still extremely clear.





We used a regular mag mount antenna on our 2002. I wonder if there is a way to make it work with the later E46's that had antennas on the roof...



-Paul

roadburner

Q: How many RX-7 drivers does it take to change a tire?
A: Click!

nyccarguy

"Drive it until the wheels fall off."

Sorry, couldn't resist!

tnguyen74

I need some expert advice. After driving for about 20 minutes and at a stop light where the engine is at idle the red oil light goes on. If I slightly rev the engine (increase RPM) it disapears and reappears when I let off the gas. I was told the oil pressure sender sensor may be faulty and will replace it. Does anyone know where the oil pressure sender is and is this a DIY project? Has anyone else experienced anything similar? Could it be the oil weight that is in the car now due to the summer heat conditions? This is on an 03 325i.

grantchstr

I have a 2005 325xi with 25,000 on the clock, no serious heavy driving. I just inspected my brakes and found a sharp ridge around the outside edge of the rotors.

At what mileage range can one usually expect the pads (and rotors) to be replaced? On a BMW would just pads be changed and the rotors be still OK? (I also have a Volvo S60 where rotors have been changed at the same time as the pads). On the free maintenance program would BMW change the rotors at the same time as the pads?

Thanks.

roadburner

I just inspected my brakes and found a sharp ridge around the outside edge of the rotors.

That's not unusual; don't worry about it.

At what mileage range can one usually expect the pads (and rotors) to be replaced?

It varies with driving conditions and driving style. The front pads on an E46 can last for up to 50K miles, and the rears will last for approximately twice that distance.
On a BMW would just pads be changed and the rotors be still OK? (I also have a Volvo S60 where rotors have been changed at the same time as the pads). On the free maintenance program would BMW change the rotors at the same time as the pads?

BMW dealers always replace the pads AND rotors because they maintain that the rotors will be worn below their minimum thickness before the second set of pads are worn out. In reality however, you can usually get away with changing the rotors at every other pad change. Having said all that, the brakes are being serviced on Munich's nickel so go ahead and let them change the rotors along with the pads.

venture

I needed my pads and rotors changed at around 25,000 miles.

When I took it in for state inspection they said the pads were almost to the limit. I was in a hurry and said I would take it back in a week.

A week later the brake light came on while I was driving to the dealer to get them changed.

fedlawman

I hate those brake pad warning lights. On both of my BMWs, I cut the leads and tied them together to keep it from illuminating...

roadburner

I hate those brake pad warning lights. On both of my BMWs, I cut the leads and tied them together to keep it from illuminating...

I agree, if a driver has any sense at all he/she will either inspect their car(or have it inspected) at frequent enoough intervals that he/she will know when to replace the pads before the warning light pops on. On most any BMW with alloy wheels you can easily check pad thickness with just your naked eyes, or with the help of a $2.00 inspection mirror.

grantchstr

I had a peek and found it hard to tell what was left on the pads (of course I didnt know what they looked like new!)

It looked like the rear brakes are different from the front. Only one pad at the back and two (per wheel) on the front?

fedlawman

Looking at a ruler, new pads are almost 3/4" thick. I change them when they're down to 3/16" or less remaining.

You probably won't be able to get a good look at the inside pads without removing the wheel (peek through the gap in the caliper). A flashlight will help too.

No, the fronts and rears are basically the same (two pads per disc - one inside and one outside). The rears are a little smaller, that's all.

yme2

A WARNING FOR ANYONE OWNING OR THINKING ABOUT BUYING A 1999 -2001 BMW 323I (E46). GO TO CONSUMERAFFARIS.COM AND TYPE IN BMW TRANSMISSION PROBLEMS.THERE ARE OVER 350 AND GROWING EACH DAY OF THE ONGOING PROBLEM BMW IS HAVING WITH THERE LIFETIME TRANSMISSION WHICH THEY PURCHASED FROM GM THESE SO CALLED LIFETIME TRANSMISSIONS IN WHICH GM HAS ALREADY RECALLED ARE MADE IN MEXICO AND LIKE MINE WITH NO WARNING ALL OF A SUDDEN YOU CAN'T GO INTO REVERSE. HUNDREDS HAVE CRIED TO BMW LOOKING FOR SOME RECOURSE OR HELP WIT H THIS TRANSMISSION WHICH COSTS $3850 FOR A REBUILD OR $6000 FOR A NEW UNIT.MY CAR STOPPED GOING INTO REVERSE AT 89K MILES. THESE TRANSMISSIONS HAVE STARTED TO FAIL AT 29K MILES. EACH OWNER ,SAME PROBLEM ,ALL OF A SUDDEN NO REVERSE GEAR. BMW CORRECTED THE PROBLEM IN 2002 WITH A MUCH HEAVIER RING. THERE IS A CLASS ACTION LAW SUIT BEING STARTED AGAINST THE BMW COMPANY AS THEY FAIL TO RECOGNIZE THE PROBLEM IF THIS HAS HAPPENED TO YOU DON'T SIT BACK AND LETTHEM RUN ALL OVERYOU. IF YOU DO REPAIR YOUR BMW DON'T DO IT AT A BMW DEALER. THE EVIDENCE IS YOUR TRANSMISSION SAVE IT. SPEEK UP PEOPLE .

nyccarguy

3. People who buy cars equipped with a manual transmission don't seem have this problem.

frankzen

New forum member -

Does anyone know where I can find replacement panels for a '95 318i? I need rockers, and a left rear wheel opening panel (quarter panel?)

Thanks

fedlawman

Same ZF auto transmission found in the VW Passat, a number of Audi's, and the Porsche Boxster and 911.

Couldn't find any complaints about those manufacturers transmissions. Probably because owners of these cars change their tranny oil regularly.

roadburner

New forum member -

Welcome!

Does anyone know where I can find replacement panels for a '95 318i? I need rockers, and a left rear wheel opening panel (quarter panel?)

Stay away from aftermarket panels if at all possible; the poor fit and finish are not worth the hassle. If you are a BMW CCA member I would first check with my local dealer, since dealers usually offer a 15%-25% CCA discount.
The complete LR rear quarter(Part# 41351977177) has a MSRP of around $320. What is wrong with your existing rockers?

frankzen

The rockers are surface rusty, with some minor (l/2 inch) holes, about 2 or 3. I figure replacing them is better than patching ? The wheel arch is another story

Thanks

roadburner

If the rockers are rusted through than you will have to go with aftermarket panels. Where is the car from? It's somewhat unusual for a BMW of that vintage to exhibit rust perforations after only 12 years.

fedlawman

Check the BMW enthusiast forums. People are often selling parts cars or parting out wrecked cars.

I would also check salvage companies. An internet search should get you a few hits.

frankzen

>>Where is the car from? It's somewhat unusual for a BMW of that vintage to exhibit >>rust perforations after only 12 years.

It's a local (Montreal) car - but was hit in the left rear fender in a parking lot years ago (according to the previous owner) He said it had been fixed by a BMW dealer...but judging from the amount of filler...it was not..unless BMW dealers now rely on filler instead of metal. The rockers...I don't know...you're right..I don't se rust on '95 s from around here...even with all the salt they use in the winter.

frankzen

I have checked a lot of forums...and online dealers...and the best I can do is an entire quarter panel which would involve a huge amount of work. All I need really is the wheel arches...the outside part...up about 3 inches. Seems overkill to replace the quarter panel for that amount of rust.

akv25

Guy:

Do I have to change any fluids for my manual transmission similar to the ATF for Triptronic?

Also, do people change their differential fluids ever? I understand that the one in the car is lifetime.

Thanks in advance.

roadburner

Do I have to change any fluids for my manual transmission similar to the ATF for Triptronic?

You don't have to but you should- at 30K intervals if you drive hard and/or track the car, 60K if it only sees gentle street use. Red Line D4 ATF and Mobil 1 ATF are popular choices.

Also, do people change their differential fluids ever?

Yes, and at the same intervals as the manual transmission. If your car doesn't have a limited slip you can use any good synthetic 75W-90 gear oil; Amsoil, Mobil 1, Red Line, Royal Purple, etc. A car with a limited slip will need a 75W-140 gear oil containing the proper friction modifying additives. I use Royal Purple Max-Gear, but there are other good choices, including the factory fluid.

I understand that the one in the car is lifetime.

Only since BMW began paying for servicing. Coincidence? I think not.

akv25

Thanks for the info roadburner.

Here's a psoter that I really like:

http://www.autotrend.com/bmw.html

It's the E46 "Why do we race - why do you breathe" one as you scroll down.

My dealer won't part with the one they have and I can't find it anywhere else.