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ok, I'm accelerating up to about 55-60 and at the same time the road veers slowly to the right and I get this soft but rapid shuddering in the front. Would this just be wheel allignment or something more serious? I'm going to take it in for a wheel alignment but waht else should i get them to check for? thanks in advance, L
I'll add rear shock tower mounts and suspension bits (tie-rod ends, bushings, sway bar end-links, etc.) At 100K, the driveshaft and differential should be fine, but I'd check the guibo for cracks/wear.
Congrats on a great (and increasingly hard to find) car - you'll love it!
All we have to do is to direct someone who comes here asking a question about something that is in a specific thread to go there to have their question answered. Not too much to ask!
Thanks
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
Haven't been on for awhile but have been checking in now and again. My '02 325xi, according to the guy that just rotated my tires, has broken half shafts. He said this means that the protecting apparata that surround the front axles where they connect to the wheel are broken. I couldn't get a good answer out of him regarding how serious this is and how soon I should get it taken care of. Anybody know anything about this?
Thanks,
ButMyWife
Yep, if the bellows are split, you should attend to this as soon as possible especially if wet weather is coming your way.
I am hoping someone in the forum can help... I have a 1994 BMW 318ic automatic with 236,000 miles on it. I've taken incredible care of the car, but the coolant valve that leads into the engine has corroded and is not fixable. My mechanic says that since only the 318's were made this way, the car would need a new cylinder head to the tune of $2000+.
I've since told him no, and had the car towed (it is not driveable) and am storing it for the winter till I can figure out what to do. :sick: (I'm now enjoying my new Infiniti I35 daily driver). However, I love the BMW and dont want to get rid of it. I've put alot of money into it. Plus, with so many miles, its worth more to me to keep it than trying to sell it.
I feel (as does my mechanic) that it is better to put a used engine in the car since once repaired it will become my weekend/fun car. Even an engine with 100,000 miles would be ok with me. My question is: Where to look for such an item? I know my mechanic could find one, but I am trying to do some research on my own to see what is out there and get some idea of price. Are there any good websites for used BMW engines?
Does anyone have any ideas? Thanks!
http://www.bmrparts.com/
http://www.bmwworld.com/parts/parts_used.htm
If you buy a used engine, it should have been run and tested and tagged with appropriate oil pressure and compression numbers. And it should have a warranty.
This will cost you a lot of money however, more than a new head would and probaby more than the entire car is worth, so think it over carefully and then go for it once you've penciled in all the #s.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
You can go to the Search This Discussion box on the page bar to easily find the posts about it.
No oil stains on the ground, or other noticeable leaks.
Also, just checked the overflow coolant and it seemed low... is this in any way related?
59K miles - Service II
60K miles - Water pump, thermostat replaced (preventive maint)
66K - changed oil and filter
69K - top up oil
70K - top up oil
71K - top up oil
Any thoughts/ideas??
Let me know what you come up with.
I went ahead and had them do an oil change (it was coming up soon anyhow), and they told me to monitor the issue and if it recurs to bring it back to them.
They did find two leaks on my power steering hoses... not an inexpensive fix, either
13K miles on a 9 year old car is scary. M3s are built to be driven, not garage queens. The owner also mentions in his ad that the car is detailed regularly (including underbelly) and won 2nd place in the tri-marque concours in 2005. How regularly do you need to detail a car that is only driven a little over 1400 miles per year? There's probably more wax than paint on the car. I'd also like to see the car that beat it out in whatever concours competition that it took 2nd place in.
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
Even with my plain old E46 I find reasons to go somewhere. :P
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
I recently came across a 1992 or 1995 (not sure only caught the phone number in passing) 325i. What problems would I need to be aware of before buying this car? It has 119k miles on it currently.
Thank you
My carpets on rear driver's side is sopping wet. Can't figure out where the leak is coming from and I know nothing about cars (a true girly girl). I have already had silicone placed around the antenna as there was rainwater leaking onto my leather seats. I checked the car out for any damage online and it was all clear. Please tell me I don't need to go on Prozac and its just a seal problem....please!
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The best advise you can get about purchasing ANY BMW is DON'T DO IT! Any time I see a BMW on the street I look at the driver's forehead for the big red "S" - for Sucker! BMW has one of the slickest marketing departments ever assembled and has much of the car buying world believing it is a world class car. But- do your research and you will soon learn that a BMW is an average car, at best in Overall quality, Initial quality, fit and finish, quality of features and accessories, and a below average rating in comfort.
But, the biggest knock is the cost- one of the priciest and most unreliable cars made in the world today.
Also, most auto journalists are awe-struck by BMW- even when faced with the ugly facts they will find a way to make the car sound like a winner.
By the way- a Saturn Vue- blows the 3 series away- (except the M3)- compare prices
There are plenty of other cars that offer greater performance,, quality and reliability at alot less cost. Do some reasearch- they are not hard to find
No offense, but if you really prefer to drive a Saturn over a BMW, you don't belong in this forum.
May I suggest the, "Best car for driving grandma to the library" forum, or perhaps the, "Cars for people who don't know about cars" forum?
Enjoy your Saturn. :P
If you want reliability, buy a Honda. Second to that brand in number owned, I've owned two BMWs, an '01 325 sedan, and still own a '99 M3 convertible. Contrary to your babble, I've had 6 years of trouble free and the most exciting miles one can have on four rubber tires.
Go start a forum for sky is falling and all BMW's suck trolls.
Anybody wanna buy an Odyssey with 80K miles? I'm
There are web sites with forums specific to your year and model and you'll find volumes of info there. If it's a manual, all the better. BMW automatics are good for about 80K miles
The water pump and radiators are susceptible on modern BMWs.
Take the car to an independent european mechanic. Find a local BMW club and you might get someone in the know to help you or at least recommend a good mechanic for eval.
Older BMWS, and I guess often modern ones too can require a lot of maintenance, so have money set aside for repairs.
Odds are very good you'll fall in love with the car.
Unlike many brands BMW has a lot of aftermarket options for performance and asthetic upgrades.
I say go for it!
Varnik
Chicago
2. 95 525i there are 2 of these. one is white with 124k miles and one is black with 160k miles. The black one looks better because its black but has some slight body damage on the hood. also 8k each
3. 97 740 il. I believe this one has 90k miles. I cant remember. This one is gold. The leather in this one is in much better condition than the aforementioned cars. this one is 13k.
All of these are being sold by a bmw mechanic. He sells bmw exclusively.
so far economy wise I like the green 3series.
for looks I like the black 525
and for condition I like the 740.
I have never owned a BMW before but I have owned a lexus so I am not new to the luxury car market. I own a saturn now and I gotta say I would much rather drive a BMW.
1. Where are the power lock switches? I looked in 4 bmws and couldnt find a single one. I found the power window switches but the lock stumped me. This is not normal as I am the car freak of the family.
2. I noticed in all of the cars that there was a switch to turn it from automatic to manual. Then someone told me it wasnt good for the car to do that.
3. I heard that if you use synthetic oil you can go for a long time without having to change the oil but the mechanic selling the cars said i have to change the oil every 2k miles and then 3k later change oil and filter. That is way more maintenance than my lexus required.
4. Do older BMWs have lock issues? It seems like 3 of the bmws did have some issues. Being that I couldnt find the switch I dont know what to think.
If there is a particular website someone can direct me to to answer these questions that would be great.
Cant wait to buy my BMW
2) Don't know
3) BMW recommends ~15K miles between changes. I, and many others on this forum, change at ~7.5K. 2-3K miles seems like it would be overkill.
4) What kind of issues? I have ~114K miles on my car and no problem with locks.
The dealer said the can go below $31K? could I offer $30K or $29.5K?
thanks
I'll let others comment on the price.. Or you can post a detailed description here:
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I am concerned about the oil change frequency of 15k miles and would like to do it earlier too. Which oil and filter do you use? I would imagine that changing oil would not do anything to the service meter reading but wanted to check.
Thanks in advance
- Where is the battery located?
- Do most of you do oil changes at the dealer, independent shop, or change it yourself?
- How long does the timing chain last?
- One of the 17' Wheels has some minor scuff and scrapes on the outer part of the rim, besides anyone know of a repair solution?
- The battery is located in the trunk, IIRC, behind the right rear tire.
- Most folks have their oil changed at the dealership, at least during the warranty period. If your car is a CPO unit, I would recommend the same. Errr, that said, some folks opt for an interim oil change (at the ~7,500 mile mark), and those changes are less likely to have been done by the dealer. Personally, I change my own. I bought an oil extractor which makes the job VERY easy. Open the hood, suck the oil out via the dipstick, open the filter housing, suck the oil out of that too, pop in a new filter, pre-fill the filter housing with oil, put the top back on, fill the engine with oil, put the dipstick back in and you're set. I'm thinking a typical oil change has taken me about fifteen minutes.
- The timing chain will most likely last longer than you'll own the car (or possibly even the car itself).
- I've never had it done, however, I've "heard" that some folks have found shops that specialize in reconditioning wheels after a minor (or even not so minor) encounter with a curb or other road hazard. Usually the report that they are happy with the results. I suggest using your favorite search engine to track these folks down.
Best Regards,
Shipo
The car is rated at 235hp put it's seems a lot stronger: what do you guys suggest are the real numbers? 250hp?
the handling is just...speechless