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Think about it this way, rotors are nothing but a big metallic thermal battery, they absorb the heat generated by braking, and then gradually (relatively speaking) release that heat, hopefully in time for the next brake event. If any one brake event over burdens the rotor's ability to store the heat, it (or they) will warp. If any series of brake events over burdens the rotor's cooling abilities, then the series of events will saturate the rotor(s) with too much heat and it (or they) will warp. Said warping happens little by little and no amount of “turning” will correct the problem, quite simply, once warped, they need to be scrapped.
For our 1998 DGC I mounted a set of cross drilled rotors that were otherwise identical to the OEM part, and now, today, a full 20,000 miles later, no warping. That's never happened before, not even once with this van. Normally by 10,000 miles a little pulsing could be felt through the pedal. By the 20,000 mile mark the pulsing was getting annoying, and by the 25,000 mile mark the van was getting dangerous. Prior to the drilled rotors I tried three sets of OEM (counting the set that came from the factory) rotors (one set only lasted 8,000 miles), two sets of top of the line NAPA rotors and even a set of Brembo solid rotors to no avail. In desperation I tried the drilled rotors (having heard all of the stories of cracking and other failures I was reticent to even give them a try), and so far at least, I couldn't be more delighted.
Getting back to BMWs in general, if my car was never to take a turn on the track, I'd stick with the OEM part. If I was to track my car and found that the rotors could still go the distance, I'd still stick with the OEM part. However, if I was to track the car and experience rotor warpage, I wouldn't hesitate for a moment to put cross drilled rotors on it.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I did a lot of research and chose what I think is the best all-season ultra-high performance tire on the market, the Pirelli PZero Nero. Now, after driving them through the tail end of summer, the fall, and most of our winter, I tend to think of them as "jack of all trades, master of none" tires.
OK, snow first - If you will be driving your E46 in snow, don't mess around with anything short of a dedicated snow/traction tire during the winter. An all-season tire will be marginally better than a summer tire in the white stuff, but not much.
Now, the rest of the year - The decision between summer and all-season tires should be based on how hard you will drive, and how long you want your tires to last. The performance downgrade from summer tires to all-seasons will be noticeable, but only when you're really pushing the car. On my M3, I only notice the difference during very aggressive, steady-state cornering. Turn-in, road feedback, and responsiveness otherwise feel very much the same. Since the all-seasons will last longer (better treadwear rating) and also work a better during those cold (but above-freezing) fall and winter days, then I'd say, based on your description of the way you drive, the trade-off is worth it.
Based on my research last year, I'd recommend checking out the Pirelli PZero Nero M+S (I am very impressed with them overall) and the Kumho ASX. I don't think the P6000 is a particularly impressive tire anyways, and I suspect that either of these all-season choices might just outperform your current tires.
The last owner just changed the oil and had the light reset 2k miles ago. Should I be afraid of the light and keep adding oil? This is not normal.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Shipo, do you know where the cabin filter is located? Is it easy to get to to inspect for replacement?
Any thoughts to fitting the brakes from an E46 330i to your 325i? Given that you're already running large enough wheels clearance shouldn't be an issue, so it might just be a matter of different caliper brackets, calipers and rotors.
Best Regards,
Shipo
If anyone has experience with this, please let me know.
abfisch
Also, I removed the side lights but having problems snapping the clear ones in. Are there any suggestions from anyone who has done this?
http://www.turnermotorsport.com/html/detail.asp?PRODUCT_ID=SBCA%207506
Anyway, I just bit the bullet and had a Dinan Stage 1 package installed, which replaces the springs and shocks. I'm still getting used to it, but think I'll really like it after I get to the point where I'm not paying so much attention to every bump I go over. It's hard to gauge the difference because now I can't remember how the car used to ride, especially since I had just changed back to my summer tires (I saved my 16" wheels for winter use).
I think that the overall ride of the car is slightly stiffer than the sport suspension -- maybe in between sport pkg and ZHP (can anyone confirm this?). It seems like there's a bit more "thump" over bumpy pavement, but over other roughness it seems better than stock. The Detroit area is a good test case since many of our roads are in really bad shape, and concrete roads get extremely bumpy when they crack and settle.
But so far it seems like a good performance upgrade, and the car definitely looks more "right". This is not supposed to be a "lowering mod", but it did bring the car to about 1/4" lower than the sport pkg, 3/4" lower than my previous stock setup.
Other mods that are easy to do yourself and not too expensive are CDV replacement(MT), front strut bar, clutch stop replacement and tranny mounts. I have done the mounts yet but everything else makes it more engaging without turning it into a tracker.
abfisch
For me, the difference from the standard suspension is significant and I'm noticing the improvement every time I drive over certain roads where I remember what it used to do.
Alignment Done
* Front camber of specs
* Front * Rear Toe out of specs
* Front Rotors Warped (how could it be if the car has only 1107 miles..is it possible? could it have been abuse?)
* 4 tires have excessive road force. According to dealer's technician it could be due to being parked for long periods.
What should I do? should I be concerns? Should I take it back to the dealer? Thanks much for your help
Regarding the alignment, hmmm, accident maybe?
Other thoughts...
Personally, I wouldn't touch this car with a ten foot pole. The problems with the braking system are in my mind only the tip of the iceberg as there is most likely internal engine corrosion as well. The fact is, that unless that engine was "Pickled" (i.e. prepared for storage, complete with pickeling oil and dessicants), internal engine parts that would normally be bathed in oil on a regular basis have been left exposed to humid air, apparently for several years without being started. Any way you cut it, that means rust.
As for taking it back to the dealer, I'm thinking that if you bought it, it's yours, and there ain't much you can do about it at this point. :-(
Best Regards,
Shipo
What those two tests won't show is how much corrosion is on the face of the cam lobes, lifter surfaces, valve stems and other moving parts.
Keep us posted.
Best Regards,
Shipo
What is the time threshold before one would implement a full prep such as recommended for long-term vehicle storage? I know there are a lot of precautions and tactics necessary to ensure proper storage conditions for the various systems that need protection.
Regards,
OW
For a car, I'd probably contact the manufacturer and ask them.
Best Regards,
Shipo
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
hi! im getting ready to purchase a 97 (E36) 325i sedan,, the car has 157000 miles on the odo,,,what kind of problems if any should i expect to encounter at this mileage? thx
-Paul
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-Paul
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
The job went fairly easy except for getting the old rotors off. I guess they make a tool for that task that is missing from my toolbox. I used the tried and true backyard mechanic's method of beating the snot out of them with a hammer until they came off. I'm pretty sure the skin currently missing from my knuckles and knees will regenerate. ;-)
I intend to do the rears on the next nice day when I have some downtime. I was going to jump right into them yesterday but became a little intimidated reading about it in Bentley. The parking-brake part in particular. Anyone have words of encouragement to offer? I have a feeling I'm psyching myself out over something that will be simple.
Thanks again to all for your advice. FWIW, the rotors that come with the Turner package are Zimmerman's.
I'm still trying to figure out why everybody hates iDrive. I've driven BMW's with and without it. They drive the same either way and my experiences with iDrive have all been good. I know it doesn't appeal to the purists who like the simpler cars w/o the hi-tech doodads, but I have had zero problems with it.
-Paul
You had me scratching my head there for a minute trying to remember if the parking brake is somehow in the way.
No, unless the rear brakes on the E46 are of a different design than the E30 (I don't think they are), the rear rotors come on and off the same as the fronts - I've never had to touch the parking brake assembly (doing the brakes anyways - ask me about the rear wheel bearing another time...). I use a rubber mallet to persuade them if they are a little stuck.
As for the rubber mallet, that worked fine on the driver's side but the passenger's side required the use of a good old-fashion steel hammer... it wasn't giving up without a fight!
Thanks!
Normal car if you want to switch between AM & FM you hit the "Band" button on the radio (doesn't apply to me anymore as I've had SIRIUS for 2 yeasr and will NEVER go back to terrestrial radio).
iDrive equipped BMW you have to nudge the controller up, scroll one click to the left, bop the controller on the head for FM, bop the controller on the head again for your presets, then click the controller left or right to scroll through your presets.
You should see what you have to do to change the vent settings from cold air to hot air!
2001 Prelude Type SH, 2022 Highlander XLE AWD, 2025 Camry SE AWD
1) Nice looking design (no strong Bangle influence!)
2) No i-Drive
3) No Run Flat Tires (includes full size spare!)
I was driving through my neighborhood in my E30 M3 this morning and noticed a man in a Honda Element following me pretty closely looking at the rear of my car. As I came up the hill past the city golf course, he eventually caught up to me (which took some determination on his part since I charged through the corner and accelerated to 65 MPH up the hill) and came alongside - very obviously checking out my car.
I'm used to getting nods and thumbs up from people when I'm out and about in the M, but when we got to the top of the hill and made eye contact, he gave me a "hang loose" and said, "I love your car, is that a wide-body kit?"
I just smiled and thanked him.
What weight of oil are you using?
How many miles are you driving per oil change?
How many miles on the engine?
How many miles can you drive before your dipstick registers "down a quart"?
Long story short, I'm suspicious of either the oil quality in your engine and/or the condition of the bottom end of your engine (i.e. the crank and the crank bearings and rod bearings). That your light only illuminates after the car is warm and at idle implies to me that the sensor is operating properly.
Best Regards,
Shipo
I tried to have installed an isimiple ipod interface for my '02 325xi this weekend but it will only work when I have started the car and then connect the interface (loaded in the trunk). Not practical, I know. I remember that you said yours has been working for a couple of years. did you get yours through BMW? My BMW dealer has one for sale (more expensive) and they want an arm and a leg to install it ($170) so my question is: Is it possible that the interface I bought (Best Buy's isimple, specifically for BMWs from 1998 to 2005) just isn't communicating with the radio every time I start the car? I'm just about ready to bail and pay twice as much for the BMW one.
Given that you have no idea what junk the previous owner put in your car, I'd get that stuff out of there pronto. Your three choices for oil that is certified for your car here in North America are as follows:
BMW Synthetic - 5W-30
Castrol Syntec - 0W-30
Mobil 1 0W-40
You MUST make absolutely sure that you are using one of those oils or you will run the risk of very expensive engine damage.
If you are still dealing with the light coming on after changing your oil, then I'd say the odds on bet is that you have worn engine bearings.
Best Regards,
Shipo
My current BMW has Sirius, and I haven't bothered to do any kind of iPod retrofit to work with the iDrive setup.
-Paul
just wondering if anyone has any easy and safe way of removing emblems. I would like to remove my 325i emblem w/o scratching it or leaving marks .
thanks
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If you use the hair dryer, have patience, you'll know when the glue is soft enough.
i read in my manual book that if you miss-shift, that it will automatically shift for you.