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Comments
I'm a BMW newbie but how do you reset the oil change indicator? Do I have to buy a reset tool or something?
I noticed the vehicle says pre-wired for alarm and there is a red light on the rear-view mirror. Is this a module I just need to purchase and the dealer programs?
After I bought the oil extractor (I use the Pela 650 BTW http://www.pelaproducts.com/description.htm which can be found for about ~$60 on the street) I too was a bit skeptical. The first time I've used it in each of the four cars we've had since I bought it I pulled the plug as well and only got a few drips to come out. Worst case scenario as far as I can tell is that conventional draining leaves maybe a thimble full in the bottom of the pan, the oil extractor might leave a thimble and a half worth of oil in there. Not too shabby. ;-) As for the debris, it seems that the aggressive nature of the vacuum gets even more of the pan debris than conventional draining, not that this debris is much of an issue as the filter would get it anyway if it ever got picked up by the engine.
"I'm a BMW newbie but how do you reset the oil change indicator? Do I have to buy a reset tool or something?"
As far as the service indicator reset, I believe that there are a number of tools out there to do this, here are a couple:
http://www.thetoolnetwork.com/bmw_service_indicator_reset.html
http://www.peakeresearch.com/index.html
"I noticed the vehicle says pre-wired for alarm and there is a red light on the rear-view mirror. Is this a module I just need to purchase and the dealer programs?"
The alarm package can be purchased at your dealership or through one of the dealerships that have an online parts department. The installation is rather easy (a couple of hours and a beer), and then you need to take the car to your dealership to have them program it. That said, the alarm isn't much of a deterrent. Why? Because of the inherent goodness of the antitheft package already in your car, all the alarm does is add a motion detector and an alarm. I've had one BMW with the alarm, and one without, and personally I wouldn't bother messing with it.
Best Regards,
Shipo
A guy and his wife were sitting next to me and he started telling me how he got a speeding ticket on the turnpike in his M3.
After a few minutes of conversation, all the time I was extolling the virtures of the M3, I realized he was talking about his Mazda 3.
Cripes!!! :mad:
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
Sit down with my co-workers.. one of them says..
"Hey, I got a new car"
"Really, what is it" (I knew..I'd seen it)
"I got a GT"
"GT? A Mustang GT?"
"Uh.. no.. an Escort GT".
"Cool... nice car.." :surprise:
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Best Regards,
Shipo
LOL It makes ya nuts!
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
In your case, I'd probably just drop by the dealer and have them pour in another quart. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
Ummm, a couple of points:
1) To the best of my knowledge, all generally available synthetic oils in the market today are compatible with conventional oils, and as such, mixing isn't an issue.
2) BMW's 5W-30 is a synthetic oil. If it weren't, then they wouldn't be able to go 15,000 between oil changes.
Best Regards,
Shipo
Thanks to all.
Just make sure it is on tight first.
Regards,
OW
But in an emergency, sure, fine...point taken!
I have a 2001 325i with about 58k miles. I noticed over the weekend while starting the car to back in and out of the garage to get my other car out; the engine was rather shaky during the start and after turning it off, the smell of the emission was bad. I didn't let the car warm up or anything and moved the car a few times when it was cold (starting it up and off). Well this morning my Service Engine soon light came on whilst in commute to the office. And the engine had a rough shaky start this morning as well. Now it just stays illuminated. I know it's not the gas cap since it half tank since last I filled. It has to do with the emission, can anyone possiblely give me an idea on what/how many sensors there are that would set this light off? And most importantly; does it go out by itself or do i need to get the code read and erased by a stealer?
1) Bad cam position sensor(s). I believe there is one per cam.
2) Bad igniton coil(s). I beleive there is one coil per spark plug.
Also, while I've never had to do either, it is my understanding that both jobs are fairly easy and inexpensive DIY tasks.
Best Regards,
Shipo
From the Bentley manual:
To reset the indicator:
-The car should be off
-hold down the left instrument button (the trip odometer reset)
-while holding the key, turn the ignition to position 1 (radio)
-you will see a test menu
-keep holding the button
-after maybe 10 seconds, the word "reset" will appear
-let go of the button and press again
-THe indicator is reset!
In reading about the indicator, I also learned that BMW changed the way the intervals are calculated for cars post 6/2000.
For cars buiilt after this date, it is calculated based solely on gallons of fuel consumed (for example, 601 gallons for 328i manual).
Cars built prior to this date take into account other factors such as engine temp, # of cold starts, etc. I don't know why BMW bothered to change and simplify this-- if they already had the electronics, why not just leave it alone?
I did a little digging and came up with this site:
http://danzee.angeltowns.net/BMW/IntakeCamSensor/intakecamsensorR_R.html
I know that I've seen others. Maybe someone else has a like or two saved up. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
I have a 2004 330ci and last weekend I noticed that my running lights were on the the light switch was turned off. Then today my low oil indicator light was flashing and the oil level is perfect; in fact I had the oil changed three weeks ago at the dealership...Any ideas why I have this electrical gremlin...??
Thanks for any input
I checked the coolant level and it was a little low. Since I didn't have any of the whiz-bang BMW coolant I have seen people talking about I just put a little water in it to bring it up to level, (maybe 6 ounces as a guess) intending to take it to the dealer to have it looked at. The small amount of water did solve the problem.
I called the dealer to ask about it and the sales manager said he asked the service department what they use. They told him to use "any green coolant". :surprise:
Is that correct? No special coolant required as long as it's green?
I will probably get the cooling system drained and refilled at Inspection 1 in a few thousand miles, but I am wondering if it's OK to use this dealer.
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
As long as you used only a little water, this should not be a problem as water is mixed with "the good stuff" anyway. You can check the effectiveness of your coolant but I am real sure you will not need to change it so soon. It should be good for 100K miles.
Regards,
OW
If there is, I wonder what this dealer does use if someone wants to flush and refill.
2025 Forester Limited, 2024 Subaru Legacy Sport
-Paul
Does anyone know?
Regards,
OW
-Paul
I test drove the new e90 325 a few months ago and the exhaust note was , at least for me, conspicuosly missing. I haven't driven the 328 or the new 335. Is it true or is this just me? Sadly for me, the driving experience is incomplete without it.
On erickpl's ipod question - I've got the dealer installed ipod adapter that plugs to the stereo on my '03 330.
I know they have iPod adapters for the iDrive-equipped BMW's, but don't know much about the iPod interface for the E46's.
-Paul
Also, should the wear sensors be replaced even if they have not been "tripped"?
thanks!
Brake pads
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-Paul
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-Paul
Thanks.
abfisch
Best Regards,
Shipo
Best Regards,
Shipo
Shipo, if there's "NO DUST", what am I gonna do with all that wheel cleaner I stocked up on?!
Two caviats: (i) you can't use it with a NAV system; and (ii) can't use it with a CD changer installed.
I installed it two years ago and I like it.
I got em from some performance shop online and they got to me quickly and I think I used shipo's recommendation for THAT as well.
-Paul
IIRC I used http://www.importrp.com for my pads. Et tu, Brute? Just kidding. ;-)
Best Regards,
Shipo
1) Use the Deluxe Plus pads for 100% street use.
2) Use the Metal Master (now called XBR Semi-Metallic) pads for mostly street use with a little track work. These pads do yield a little dust, but far less than the OEM pads.
3) Use the Ultimate (now called ULT Ceramic) on cars that see LOTS of track time. These pads yield considerably more dust than the OEM pads, and according to him, they are so aggressive that they might even outlast a set of rotors.
Best Regards,
Shipo
My "normal-driven" Volvo wears Mintex "red box" pads. $38 per axle and very quiet/dust free. BMWCCA members I know love the "red-box" pads for their street-driven Bimmers too (that's why I tried them).
Btw, nobody's weighed in on the rotors... any opinions? Brave, you put ATE's on your car if I remember correctly. Happy with them?