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The flickering light syndrome has NOTHING to do with the headlights. It is the voltage regulator in the alternator being temporarily overloaded. Headlights draw ALOT of current so about the only time the voltage regulator will be overloaded is when the headlights are on. The "new" alternator supposedly has a redesigned voltage regulator that will handle the current required. But, like any solid state device, if it has to operate at near design-limit levels constantly, it will fail quicker.
cabowabodude: your car may be experiencing the dreaded "crank sensor" malady. Cadillacs also suffer this disease with alarming frequency. It will get worse before it gets better... eventually the car will not start at all. Take it in to the dealer to see if a code has been set.
vinny2 - Any idea how long it took the dealer to do the lube job?
Dropped off day before
If I can find ticket I'll see how many hours they billed.
You know, you would have thought by the 2002 model year like mine that they would have corrected the problem instead of denying the problem. My car doesn't have the added power draw of heated seats either. I have noticed when my lights dim like that, sometimes I have had only the radio playing only.
Everyone is right about the ride and performance of the Intrigue though. Great gas mileage too!
I am glad to report that my '98 Intrigue is doing great. Absolutely no problems with over 58,000 miles, other than the warping problem with disc brake and intermediate steering shaft. All four disc brakes were replaced at around 42,000 miles and I have not a problem since. I have also recently said the steering problem is also much better to the point where I now longer think about it. Also important to realize that the only service this car has had is oil changes and I am not planning on anything until it hits 100,000 miles, as per the owner's manual.
Without a doubt the Intrigue is a very good car. I know that the engine does not have the same high speed feel as the 3.5 but it is good around town and together with the GM transmission it is awesome how smooth and reliable it is. I was going to post my strong disagreement with the notion that the '98s should be avoided as a used car buy, I could have argued that the tried and tested 3.8 engine/tranny combination, together with an interior that seems to be a little better than later model years should be sought out and not avoided.
Happy holidays everyone!
I wish I had access to the full bulletin but the site is down right now. Then I could give you the correct part number that it's supposed to be replaced with. I can't believe those of you that have had the supposed "redesigned" one installed are having problems since I haven't had a bit of trouble since the redesigned one was put in my car (yes I've had it swapped out twice, once with the old one and once with the redesigned one). We need to check the part numbers again to make sure they're putting in the new one and not just a replacement. I'll see what I can do about finding the part number. Anyone who's been here knows I'm picky and I'd DEFINITELY notice if my headlamps were flickering again. I hope all of you who had supposedly had redesigned ones put in that your dealers made mistakes and put the wrong part in. I know my dealer had to check about the part number when they put the redesigned one in. I did note that the TSB is not posted to either the 2001 or 2002 Intrigues, so that would make me worry. Maybe, truly, I got a fluke alternator that actually works.
This didn't correct the problem, so they ordered me another and I had to wait a couple of months because it was supposed to be a re-designed one. It finally came and they replaced it but on the paperwork, the part # was the same 10464395 GENER REM 2.275. When I noted the part number, I called the parts dept and asked about the difference between the #10464395 and #10464469 (apparently the updated one according to this board). upon checking, he said it looks like it has to do with the year of the vehicle. He didn't really know about updates or re-designs.
At any rate, I haven't had the flicker/dimming problem since and according to paperwork, I have the 10464395. This is not to say I won't, just that I haven't noticed it yet and it's been about 6 months. Is it possible that part number change is not synonomous with re-design?
Just thought you might want to hear from an Accident Victum.
Also my headlights are starting to go NUTS, I don't have heated seats, I run
1)radar detector
2)Cell phone
3)heater (never more then 2nd setting)
4)lights (not even half way on the brightness dial)
This is what I run, and my headlights are driving me NUTS!!!! I am over my miles, and all this started to get VERY bad at 43K. So my answer to people that have it happen, Get it taken care of before it gets worse! I drive 200 miles (round trip to work) it seems like the longer the drive the worse the flickering gets!
From time to time I have to crank my engine more than once to get it to start. Anyone else experiance this?
Your help is greatly appreciated!!
Have a cool yule
RE: Flicker - Looks like I have the flicker with my car now. Since the weather has gotten colder. in the past week, I have noticed it big time. I will have the car looked at in the new year.
It's really great to have everyone here discussing these problems as if I didn't, I would think I was just imagining the flicker.
Otherwise.. all is well with my Intrigue. Just passed 40K and still loving the car!
I'm genuinely concerned that those that have had the redesigned alternator put in have this problem. Truly, I've been looking for this since you've all talked about it and can't find a trace. I'll consider myself very fortunate that my "redesigned" alternator seems to have fixed the problem entirely. It's a very bad safety issue and I think we should all escalate this somehow, whether to the government or Oldsmobile or GM or someone.
Hopes its not contagious!
www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/ivoq/default.htm
Service bulliten is #010603001 if anyone is interested.
My plastic coolant tank mounts to the passenger side tower (frame) so I'm going to have to cut some of the plastic off of the forward part to allow clearance for the bracket. Won't be a problem but I was wondering if you ran into this or if you got a different brace. It may or may not touch the power steering line. Too close to call until I can get the brackets on the towers.
Here is my question: If I am over my mileage, would olds cover this? It seems like a common problem or why would they have a TSB on this???
Let's hope that all of us that are experiencing this defect will report it and we will get it fixed! It only takes a couple minutes but have your vehicle ID & dealer information handy.
GM certainly has had plenty of time to fix this. We've been talking about it for over a year. Don't tell me they can't find a few Intrigues with this problem to inspect! GM just isn't taking the problem seriously.
Noticed the local dealer got a big shipment of Intrigues in this week. They have 8 in total now. I wonder if there is a "package promotion" coming in the new year?
I have an opinion, everybody does, that the alternator problem is due to heat. The unit is rigidly mounted to the block for engine rigidity. The engine uses a 180 deg. thermostat vs 190 or 195 deg. thermostats for most cars today. The alternator could have been a consideration for the lower engine temperature.
Another opinion. Bob, being as smart as he is, probably will not drop the Oldsmobile label. There are a lot of Oldsmobile ads on TV, not Alero, Intrigue, and Bravada. Had this been done early on at introduction then dropping the name would never have been considered.
WOW.....5500 rpm's! How fast were you going? I cruise on the highway at a little over 2000 rpm's! LOL
But this is progress. Where would we be if we didn't experiment and test different things!
It's just unfortunate that the poor consumer has to pay a little extra if it doesn't work out as planed. But he gets the benefit if the experimental model is a success.
I also noticed that there are posts at BAT Auto regarding the same problem.
So it seems my car has recently caught this ailment (at just under 20k miles, 2+ years old, a dec.99 built 2000 GL).
So I experimented, and found:
[1] SO FAR, occurs here (Chicago area) when temps are below 20. Esp. bad last nite (10 degress)
[2] Only occurs miliseconds after application of the gas pedal, in drive, any spped, and not always(?)
[3] DOES NOT occur in garage/sitting, in drive (or nuetral) when trying to re-vreate by applying the gas/revs.
[4] Did see interior lites simulataneously dim, no surprise of course.
....So after lots of reading here, what I am to take away is that the TSB (new alt.) does not fix it?
Of course my dealer would say they cannot reproduce (and in fact I cannot every time as above). I assume since the voltage regulator is now in the alternators these days, that its not
working correctly to maintain constant voltage.
To me its no big deal, but do want it corrected eventually. 1 year to go on the warrantee at this point. I will add my input to the NHTSA site, and print out the tsb. For now, the car is "my friend flicka".
Some here think its a heat sink effect of the alt. from the block, but then why didn't it occur in the extreme heat this past summer? Then again, if this is the cause, It possible the said heat could have damaged the alt. over time, and thus why I see the problem now. Going on a drive up to Wisconsin this coming next weekend, and may contact the dealer after I get back. Once again thanks to all here for the great input.
Anyone know the url to the tsb?
Seriously, is the voltage regulator mounted in the alternator? I have an old 87 Chrysler Le Baron that I play with and the alternator field is controlled by the ECM and a external power module. When the ECM (computer) goes out the alternator looses the field. Needless to say I was working on the alternator when the problem was the ECM.
If the field regulator is in the alternator then the temperature could be an even bigger factor.
No one has identified the problem of potentially:
Shorted field poles?
Shorted rectifier diodes?
Sticking field brushes?
Failed voltage regulator?
Some other loose field connections?
Field windings having broken solder joints or crimp connection?
wbhall, probably was doing about 70 mph at that point. Mine will cruise 60 MPH just a bit over 2000 RPM, but when I'm merging into traffic and I've got the pedal nearly to the full, she really revs and this is what I was doing.
My 2000 intrigue has not had this problem.
The recent post about the intermediate shaft fix, has however, required a long time to resolve. Provided it is resolved by the lubrication.
Happy New Year all!