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Comments
But our cars were parked under the trees and that blunted things.
Hail damage should be insurable. The homeowner's policy covered the shingle damage on the roof. I don't see why an auto policy wouldn't cover it...
cabowabodude, CALL YOUR INSURANCE AGENT ASAP!! The value of your car just dropped BIG TIME with those hail dents. More than likely they can be repaired, but it will probably cost. My father had some hail damage(which wasn't even that noticeable) on an old Plymouth Acclaim he used to have and when he went to trade the car, the salesperson pointed it out and suggested he call the insurance agent. Luckily he still had full coverage insurance and they looked at the car and cut him a check for $2200. Ironically, that was more than he would have probably gotten on a trade without the hail damage and he ended up pocketing the money and selling the car privately for $1600.
The air dam is supposedly essential to engine cooling. Leave it off and see if you notice a problem. That's what I'd do. GM came out with a new design since 2000 that is smaller and made of lighter material so when it scrapes, it's not as loud. I wish it wasn't there. I think it makes the car look odd from the side and front and too low.
I was on the lot today closely inspecting Intrigues. One thing I specifically looked for is panel gaps in the passenger airbag. These have remarkably improved. My buddy just bought a new Tahoe and I'm similarly impressed with that build quality as well. I hope it's a sign of good things for American products.
I also looked at the new Infiniti G35 and found the same cheapish looking interior material that is in the new Altima. I was surprised. Maybe it just LOOKS cheap? I dunno. I think the Intrigue body style is starting to show its age. I would've loved to see a trimmed down Intrigue like they did with Aurora.
My car is king of rattle buckets.
Someone here posted that the engine runs hot without the dam. Makes sense. The Intrigue doesn't have a grille, so the air needs to reach the radiator somehow.
Other than the clunky steering and warped rotors, the car runs great. I did 350+ miles yesterday, most of it on the PA Turnpike in the rain, and had an enjoyable ride. That's saying something.
Other than the clunkiing being annoying - does anyone know if not replacing it would cause any more problems or be a safety concern? I haven't heard anyone address the ISS other than it's annoying, but with almost 70K miles, maybe I could just deal with the clunk, if it's not going to lead to other problems?
After about 10 weeks since my ISS lube, I can report that the steering is great with no repeat of the problem. (I had my ISS replaced years ago which did not fix the problem for very long.)
Front 98 Springs (W/FE1 or FE3) FE1 is "soft-ride susp"
product # 22133028 code-FJS (highest load rate)
product # 22133027 code-FJR
Front 99-00 Springs (W/FE1 or FE3)
product # 22133030 code-FJS (highest load rate)
product # 22133029 code-FJT
product # 22133028 code-FJS
Rear 99-00 Springs (W/FE1 or FE3)
product # 10421043 code-TKL (highest load rate)
product # 10421042 code-TKM
product # 10421041 code-TKN
product # 10421040 code-TKP
product # 10421039 code-TKR
product # 10403279 code-TKS
product # 10421037 code-TKT
product # 10421036 code-TKU
Front Struts (AC-DELCO)
part # 88945802 (ROAD RESPONSE SILVER) (98-00)
part # 22400000 W/6JS,6JT, 6KJ,7JS,7JT,7KJ (REACTEK) (98-02)
part # 22400002 W/6JR,6KN,7JR,7JN (00-02)
Rear Struts (AC-DELCO)
part # 88945803 (ROAD RESPONSE SILVER) (98-00)
part # 22400001 W/FE1 (REACTEK) (98-02)
maybe they gave the autobahn cars slightly different tuning and maybe the same with the PCS cars?
Some slight pulsing has developed in the brake pedal, I'm unsure if it's the rotors or what.
Any thoughts?
It's not something vital to the car but it is an early warning mechanism when parking.
good luck.
They had no problem with replacing the shaft the first time, but it was out of warranty at the time. I'd imagine if you got the lubrication done within warranty, then it failed later, you might have a case for the replacement to be covered.
I'm no mechanic, but the pulse through the pedal could well be a rotor problem, especially given the history of that issue with the Intrigue.
BTW like many others, I've felt the slight clunk from time to time when turning the steering wheel at low speeds.
Has anyone tried KTB GR2 struts? They're advertised on tirerack for US $56@ front and $53 @ rear (not including new boots)? I've got 55K on my '99 and the struts are fairly worn out.
A properly engineered air dam will result in about 5% better highway fuel mileage. The device creates a vacuum underneath the engine compartment to scavenge the hot air from the engine compartment.
These have been available for performance vehicles for many years. They even add a touch of class and help cover up the exposed running gear.
It is not a good idea to leave it off. You do see a lot of vehicles with it ripped off. They are very exposed to concrete curb stones.
If you only drive in city traffic then you probably can live without it. But going across West Texas and Arizona in the summer time you could benefit by having it in place.
I had no problems getting the ISS replaced under warranty. My Olds dealer was super with respect to my warranty issues. Nevertheless replacing the ISS did not permanently solve the problem. I have never see any information to explain how a new shaft would be different, I suspect that the replacement was offered for lack of a better idea. My thinking now is that the lubrication fix makes some sense. I suggest getting the ISS lubed first and since this is a known issue and lubing the shaft is much less expensive than replacement, the dealer should go for it. However I did get my independent mechanic to do this (around $40) because I trust him and he was performing other routine service as well.
Pulsing of the brake pedal is likely a sympton of rotor warping. Fix would be to machine the rotors, you might try to make a case that this also should be a warranty issue. I had my rotors machined twice and eventually replaced all under warranty. However my mileage was around 15K each time, at your 30K you will likely have a harder job to convince them to cover it.
Used Castrol Syntec 10w-30 ('cause that's all they had). Didn't do anything as far as oil consumption. Still had to add a quart btwn changes. However, mileage has increased one mile per gallon from what the pump says. That's nothing great and I can understand if some would not spend the extra cash for synthetic. But I think I'll continue to use it (although I might switch to Mobil 1). If I get only a gallon better than using regular dino and I get better engine protection, I'll go for it. I plan on keeping the car a while. Since GM engines can run for decades if cared for properly, using synthetic should (hopefully) extend it even further.
My oil consumption is the same as it has been the past 2 changes.
I have a 98 and had my iss fixed at 13500 miles under warranty. The shaft was defective. They replaced/fixed with e770-2e fp number 26078302. olds knew about the problem. Take your car to oldsmobile service. Since your off warranty you might have to pay. It wasnt an outright recall but they knew it was defctive and honered it no questions under warranty. good luck.
George
Well 2 years later and this car is one piece of JUNK. Right now it only has 32K miles on it I take top care for my cars and it has been in the shop 6 times! I look through the files and this car has much more paper work then a 1998 Chrysler(Been in the shop once for broken power lock thats it) with 80K miles and a 1995 Ford(been in the shop twice) with 89K miles!
Trip 1) The back wheel bearing and hub assembly needed replaced resulting in the car to make loud noises from that location. The break light also sticked and left break lights on when It wasn't applying the breaks and the stop lamp switch had to be replaced. 17,405 miles on the car.
Trip 2) The car when dead and didn't start at all. Towed it to the shop and the car needed a new computer control body module replaced. 13,969 miles on the car
Trip 3) This wasn't a major stop but molding off 2 of the doors was coming off or moving making the doors tougher to open. Molding on both doors has to be fixed so I could open the door. 20,456 miles on the car
Trip 4) Coolant light kept coming on. The radiator hose needed replaced and there was a clamp found to be leaking under the car and they replaced the clamp to surge tank. 27,100 miles on the car.
Trip 5) Passenger window would not roll down. had to be fixed. AC would not blow cool anymore so the temp. module valve had to be replaced. 30,900 miles on the car.
Trip 6) this is where my car is at now. Car has a tough time starting, engine light coming on. I called and some starting sensor had to be replaced thy said it was sorta of a major part.
Glad all this is under warrenty. I still got 2 more years to pay on it so I have to get an extended warrenty. This is one pathetic car. I can see why Olds are going away they are junk. Why would anyone spend $25,000 new for this car and have all these problems? I had less problems with my old 1988 Ford Tempo and that car was junk as well.
At least the service at the garage is good but it should be they sell Cadillac's there as well.
Goodbye GM I will never even consider buying your unreliable junk anymore....Honda/Toyota/Chrysler again here I come!
Sounds like your final trip was due to a crankshaft sensor. Is that correct?
Overall I would have to agree that for some of us intrigue quality has been less than stellar.
Intrigues are not "junk".
My OEM sway is back on now. Don't really notice that much difference except maybe slightly more dip in turns. The creaking is blessedly gone... oops I meant the creaking coming from the sway bar... the creaks inside are plentiful and bothersome.
It's too bad that legero8 has had so many problems, but any car line will have a few that suck. I certainly hope that you don't make other decisions (like voting) based on trivial examples. I guess I've never really had a horrible car so maybe I don't understand, but I really don't think I would let one bad experience sour me like that. I've had bad dealership experiences and stopped using the offending dealer, but I don't turn it into an indictment of all dealerships, or even of all dealerships of that particular brand of car.
In Edmunds, I read a lot of people ranting about how their car is horrible and therefor the manufacturer is crap. I wonder what causes people to make conclusions like that?
IMO, it is easier, and cheaper to go with synthetics than the dino change ritual.
It is pretty well established that the syns provide superior engine protection, last longer, and tend to perform better in the complex engines such as the DOHC 3.5.
My routine is to change at 3,000 on the odometer and then change filters and add 1 quart at 8,000 with a full changeand filter at 13,000, repeat at similar intervals.
I believe this provides better protection and is much simpler and cheaper.
I am considering going to AMSOIL though, and plan to go with their air filter in my 2002 instead of the K&N.
http://www.guarding-our-earth.com/members/amsoil/1mrtruck/
"Synthetic motor oil" Apr 6, 2002 2:22pm
there is a lot of interesting information here.
Intrigues are junk it was used with 12K miles! 12K miles!!!! Its not like I bought some 10 year old junker. What could have been done to it anyway? It has a clean Carfax report and all previous records or service when I bought it. Oil changed every 3K miles, etc.
yurakm : Buick is indeed as reliable as Toyota, you are correct. I have seen lots of supporting data on that. "legero" is talking about a driving test, not a reliability test.
The tier 1 suppliers use that philosophy on their vendors too, beating them up for cost reductions and then trying to "share" in additional cost savings the vendors may come up with, after already anteing up 3-5%. Then, when they're bled dry, we turn around and source their parts overseas (India and China are becoming really popular) no matter how good their quality or cost reduction performance has been. The overseas manufacturers typically don't have robust quality systems in place so quality suffers, at least initially. It's very frustrating.