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Oldsmobile Intrigue

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Comments

  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I have a bad itch to buy something new but with my wife starting a biz and 2 kids in day care, I quash in my mind any idea of it. My Trigue is paid off and healthy.

    That all said, since I replaced my tires and brakes, I am enjoying the car much more. It feels almost new again and mine is rattle free so it's still fun to drive.

    I'll wait at least 2 more years I think (the LaCrosse will be on my shop list also), I like driving with no payments.

    :)
  • jhdjhd Member Posts: 20
    I had intake manifold gasket done on my 98 Intrigue, 140k km, and a jerk in the garage topped it off with yellow coolant. I need to flash it and change back to dexcool. What is a coolant volume in the 3800 engine?
  • ketchketch Member Posts: 217
    Ya, agreed!. My '00 GL has 40k miles at 5.5 years old (bought fall 99), and had new Michelin Pilot XGT4's added about 9 months ago. Just did front brakes, new rack and fixed minor items. No payments the last year and a half and hope to keep it another 4-5 years. I only put 3-4k a year on it now, and now living near Vegas, it never see's the salt of my previous midwestern life. Still drives like new and fits a family of 4 great. -ketch
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Since we got a van, I am putting less than 10K kms a year as it's mostly just driven from the commuter train station and home daily (a 10 minute drive).

    That said, I know I will really want a new car in 3 years which is when it's scheduled to be replaced. Even if it's still running strong I will likely get a new sedan.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    Looking to change out the factory front rotors and will replace the rears ( OEM replaced after a year due to excessive scoring, rusting and warping). Looking at the Baer Decela Rotors which are a direct OEM replacement unit that is slotted and cross drilled and offers better wet stopping, heat dissapation and greater bite. I have a mechanic to do the work, just need to price out the parts at AutoZone.

    Tranny doing fine since the flush.

    Checked out the Saturn Aura concept and I think I like it more than the LaCrosse! Will come with the same 3.6 DOHC engine....and standard leather! Leather?? In a Saturn?? Sounds like GM is taking their Olds mindset and using it on Saturn.
    Maybe I'll make a trip to check it out when the 2006 models are released. May be a more affordable alternative.

    :)
  • ab348ab348 Member Posts: 19,091
    Aura will be overpriced and besides... it is a Saturn. I wouldn't be caught dead in one. It should be the next GM division to go -- actually, should have been the first to go, ahead of Olds. Word is that the Aura is what the next-gen Intrigue would have been, had Olds not been murdered by the GM brass. Sadly, I won't get to experience that since I will not consider a Saturn.

    2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6

  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    I changed out my original small rotor single piston calipers for the 12" rotors with dual piston PBR calipers. A direct bolt on. Imacmil disdained the changeout, but it was very easy, all GM and cheap!
    I have a few photos of the finished setup if anyone is interested. It looks very nice, and the car stops way more positively. The 12 inch rotors are common to several GM cars including the F-Bodies. I also flushed the brake fluid out during the change. My 99 Intrigue GL was built in Dec of 98, and now has 96k and runs, looks and drives like it has only 30k. I am looking at a Dodge Charger SRT-8 next year when my 2 oldest graduate from college! Back to RWD!
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    I don't know if it's only my Intrigue, but the Delphi ABS gets in way too early and harshly even on dry-bone pavement. If it plagues all Intrigues, wouldn't upgrading the brakes be moot with the stock ABS computer?
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    dekester : Don't listen to ab348. He holds a grudge against Saturn because Olds got killed. The Aura does look very good and it will be on my shop list. In the end it's all GM anyway. Didn't hear about standard leather, probably only on the 6 cyl. model.

    msw : Charger looks nice. I have seen a couple of truck loads on the highway as the plant is 1/2 hour north of here.

    Evandro : Something wrong with your ABS setting then. I have to screech my tires to get the ABS to kick in.
  • ian18ian18 Member Posts: 133
    I just want to say good bye to all the Intrigue owners out there. Today I traded in my '98 Intrigue Autobahn edition after almost 8 years and 90K miles. It was a very good car with few problems. I was the original owner although the car had been passed onto my wife for the last few years. I wonder how many of the original Intrigue owners are now left on this board?

    Over the years I have found the information posted to be very useful. So once again, thanks everyone and good luck with your Intrigues!
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "I changed out my original small rotor single piston calipers for the 12" rotors with dual piston PBR calipers. A direct bolt on. Imacmil disdained the changeout..."

    I don't recall exactly what I said but it was probably something along the lines of "if you can lock up your tires with the stock brakes, then going to "better" brakes isn't going to improve your stopping distances." If you're happy with the swap, more power to you.
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    I'd very interested in hearing from other owners about the performance of the ABS brakes. AFAIK, those with the PCS package have a Bosch system, which is far better than the Delphi, and perhaps more recent model years have a Bosch set up too.

    Please, let me know about your experiences. Not that I'd go about spending $1000 plus to replace the ABS computer...
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Evandro : I have the regular system, no PCS.

    Ian18 : Sad to see the Intrigue owners leave but that's going to happen with a car that's out of production. What did you get to replace her?
  • dtownfbdtownfb Member Posts: 2,918
    There's a couple of possibilities. It could be a clogged AC drain.

    It also could be a "leak" at the junction of the windshield and black plastic on the passenger side. Under this plastic is where the cabin air filter sits. That seal can fail allowing water through that air intake and onto the passenger side mat.

    I hope I described that properly. I know it has been discussed a few times. Check out post #11692 of 12252.
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    evandro: something must be wrong with the ABS motor, as I have to try very hard to get the ABS to activate. It it supposed to (impending wheel lock-up) modulate brake fluid pressure to minimize/prevent lock-up. If it does not, there is a problem.
    The system should generate a fault code, if it is a hardware problem. As far as upgrading the brakes goes, bigger rotors and better calipers = shorter stopping distances with all else remaining the same. This general fact is common knowledge in the automotive performance aftermarket. Baer, Brembo, and others offer kits that enhance braking performance by using larger rotors, better calipers and improved pads. Its a matter of physics, the larger swept areas of bigger rotors and improved clamping force of dual and 4-piston calipers allow for shorter stopping distances. This is fact!! Not to mention ceramic pads! There are lots of ways to improve braking performance, I just mentioned a few. Cross-drilling, slotting, and such also help, but potential may not be realized in stock (normal)use. Most of the newer GM FWD cars have gone to the 12" rotor, the La Crosse, Impala, Grand Prix, etc. for a reason: They are better!! The braking is improved, and rotors have more applications.
    "if you can lock up your tires with the stock brakes, then going to "better" brakes isn't going to improve your stopping distances." That is a bunch of hooey!!
    If your ABS is working correctly, you should not be able to "lock up your tires"!
    And better brakes WILL improve your stopping distances. Can't wait to see what a former Intrigue owner (now Camry) has to say.
  • crobeycrobey Member Posts: 1
    Hey everybody my first post.
    Anyway, my 99 GL wouldn't turn over this afternoon. Got the dreaded click click click click. So I'm pretty sure it is the starter. Anyone had experience changing it themself. I read on another post that the starter is buried under the intake manifold and between the cylinders. Anybody think I'm crazy or should I just tow it to a shop?
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    "And better brakes WILL improve your stopping distances."

    Please explain exactly how that works. Here's the premise: you can lock your wheels (disregarding ABS) with the stock Intrigue brake system. That means that the limiting factor is tire-road coefficient. You put on "better" brakes (however you want to define that term) but don't change the tires. Please explain the physics of shortening your stopping distance in this situation? I'm all ears :)
  • petergoergenpetergoergen Member Posts: 5
    My mistake. It was intermittent at first, but not related to whether the heat or A/C was on. It finally died completely and ended up being a bad blower motor.

    Pete
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    Re-read my post you responded to. Larger swept area on the Rotor, better clamping force
    by the dual piston calipers, and high performance ceramic pads = Improved performance.
    The merits of upgrading braking performance by going to larger rotors and improved calipers is a given. Why do you think they sell upgrades?
    Its clear you prefer to argue. Your premise is inaccurate, as you cannot turn off the ABS
    system, and therefore, irrelevant. For a brake engineer, you certainly seem to be ignoring
    the obvious. Read some Car & Driver, or Motor Trend articles on brakes.
  • lmacmillmacmil Member Posts: 1,758
    Your comments about larger effective radius, etc. are all true and if you were unable to reach to point of impending slide (the point of maximum braking force), then upgrading the brakes would make a difference.

    However, if tires are the limiting factor for stopping distance, which they are in most cases in unmodified vehicles, then how can you improve stopping distance without addressing the tire-road coefficient issue? If you can't or are unwilling to address this, then I give up and you can continue to believe what you want, regardless of the physics involved.

    Have a great day.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    Got the dreaded click click click click. So I'm pretty sure it is the starter.

    This is normally due to a dead battery/ bad connection at the solenoid or battery, as there is insufficient voltage/current to keep the solenoid in once the starter tries to draw several hundred amps, causing it to pull in, out,in,out. Or click click click click

    If you have a single click when turning the key then it could be the contact within the solenoid or a bad starter.

    The starter on the 3.5, is mounted on the side of the block at the front of the engine, visible from under the car. Never had one off so I'm not sure of the removal procedure.

    Have you tried a boost? Make sure you have a good connection with your clamps on those dinky battery terminals on a GM battery.

    If it starts off a boost then remove and clean the battery posts. As well there could be corrosion where the battery connects to the solenoid.

    Warning
    Make sure that you disconnect the battery before playing around at the solenoid connection as it is a direct wire(not fused) from the battery and shorting it out will not make your day.
  • msw13msw13 Member Posts: 51
    "Regardless of the physics involved"!! Sorry to break this to you Imacmil: Tires are not the limiting factor on stopping distances!!! Brakes are!! Tires factor in due to contact patch size, compound, and co-efficient of friction. Brakes stop the mass of the vehicle by using friction. Ask some of your peer brake engineers. I bet you lose on this one! Have a nice day!
  • akitadogakitadog Member Posts: 117
    I think the proper argument here is that larger brakes rotors, pads, etc. will bring you to impending lockup quicker than the stock brakes will. Assuming you're traveling at 100 mph, this could really shorten stopping distances.

    I think the slower you're going, the less of a difference the brake setup makes, other than the larger rotor adding to the rotating mass that needs to be stopped.So there is the tradeoff, depending on your speed. I'm no physics major, but this sounds logical to me.
  • ab348ab348 Member Posts: 19,091
    Took the Intrigue to the dealer today for a few items... all addressed except one which returned the dreaded "could not duplicate". Of course I duplicated in my driveway the minute I got home. Before I take it back maybe some of you could give me a few hints to pass along to the service writer....

    You back up and come to a stop. When you subsequently move forward and apply the brakes you get a clunk from the left front. Not loud, but there. Later stops do not give a clunk until after the next time you back up.

    Further clouding the issue: this SEEMED to develop (I can't be totally sure) after a brake service in Feb. where the front pads were replaced. Makes me suspect caliper sliders or whatnot, but I don't know how those front brakes are designed so I can't be sure. Or could it be a strut bushing, a tie rod end, something else....?

    .

    2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6

  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    ab.

    Guessing of coarse, without seeing the car, but the first thing I would do on your discription is to have them check the torque on the caliper bracket to steering knuckle bolts. Your bracket may be rocking with the direction of the wheel rotation.

    There was a tsb on this where they up'ed the torque to, I believe, 133ft lbs. to address concerns of clunking like you have.

    Cheers and good luck
  • evandroevandro Member Posts: 1,108
    It does prevent lock up, it's just that it seems to activate too often, too soon, with all the pedal trepidation and ABS pump recycling after lifting the foot from the pedal.

    But I have to say that now that it's got new pads and rotors it's much more linear than before and the ABS activates about half as often.

    TIA
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    Only have high speed on the blower..... Is it a simple fix? Local GM dealer wants $83 just for diagnostics! Capacitor? Since they'll have the whole center stack apart, I'll have them look at the mysterious A/C switch that turns on and off by itself. Getting sticky here in Florida and I need the air!

    BTW, I don't have the auto system; just the manual.

    44,900 miles as of today - in service date was 1/7/99.

    A note on my brake post from a few days ago, Baer FINALLY answered my e-mail from a month ago to say they DO NOT offer replacement rotors for the Intrigue. They DO have them for the other W-bodies, so what' the difference? My mechanic brought up a point about the slotted & cross-drilled rotors - how do you cut them if they need it down the road? Interesting question and no one we called could shed any light on it.

    Deke
  • focusfocus Member Posts: 225
    Well, every since Goodyear replaced my rear pads even thought it was totally unnecessary, i have been back there twice to check on a high pitch and now mid-tone rubbing noise from the rear that was not there before the brake job.
    The noises would appear intermittenly while drive straight or turning; first they blame it on the rotor, the 2nd time they blame it on the caliper; but the noises remain after their fixes :(
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    focus : That sucks. I got my pads done at my GM dealer and my brakes work like new. Did they use Delco parts or are they another brand?

    dekester : I can't imagine it's that much to replace. Do you have any local repair shops you can trust?
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    Well, since I've only been here six months and have only had oil changes and a tranny flush done, I really don't have a mechanic I've used more than once. Since many places don't really care for ASE certification, I'm wary about going to them. I'd rather bite the bullet and go to the Buick/Poncho/GMC dealer a couple of miles away. I'll sit in their air conditioned waiting room, read their paper (and do their crossword puzzle!), drink their free coffee (and if I'm early enough the free donuts). wander around the showroom and try to get a Lacrosse CXL for under $20G (good luck!). Already played the Hot Button ghame, so I can't do it again.

    Being "in between jobs" means I have nothing else to do with my day....
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I wish I had time. With 2 kids, work, school and everything else, it's amazing I have time to sleep.

    ;-)

    Right now, unless I love the Aura, the Allure (LaCrosse) CXS will likely be my next car.
  • andrei1andrei1 Member Posts: 2
    My 1998 Intrigue turns brights on automatically starting early dusk every time I drive it. Note: the brights switch is in "off" position. But brights are on anyway. Needless to say it is uncomfortable for other drivers. Did anybody have a similar problem? Any idea what is the cause and how to fix it? Your thoughts are much appreciated.
  • dekesterdekester Member Posts: 322
    was the problem. Replaced a $30 part - cost me $139! Of course, being a dealership "service" department, they found a few other things they think I needed to have done. Passed on them. Car was done within an hour and sat ourside the waiting room for a half hour while my paperwork was being processed.

    BTW, I had THREE cusp of their (crappy) coffee and a half a crueller! Someone else had the paper and wasn't giving any of it up!

    Just accepted a job that gives me a 40 mile rount-trip commute every day. I'll be putting 200 miles a week on the Trig. Just under 45000 miles now.

    Can't wait to see the new Aura and check the pricing. Since Saturn has a no haggle policy, it might "force" me into the LaCrosse. Gee, I wonder what the second generation Intrigue would have looked like?

    Deke
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I can imagine the 2005 Intrigue would have been powered with the 3.6L much like the LaCrosse but it would have had a better body style. Sort of a cross between the Aura and the LaCrosse I guess.

    Sad that it never was but I'll bet some work was done on it before Olds was killed. I would love to see the sketches.
  • andrei1andrei1 Member Posts: 2
    1998 Intrigue turns brights on automatically starting early dusk every time I drive it. Note: the brights switch is in "off" position. But brights are on anyway. Needless to say it is uncomfortable for other drivers. Did anybody have a similar problem? Any idea what is the cause and how to fix it? Your thoughts are much appreciated.
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    Sounds like the high bean switch in the signal switch stalk is stuck.

    It sounds like when the DRL's comes on the high beams are powered up because the switch is stuck.

    A test.
    In the day time, turn the headlights via the stalk(bypassing the drl circuit) and see if your high beams come on and are they controlable by pushing the stalk away from you. If you only have highs then the switch is stuck or the stalk is disconnected/broken from the switch and it is sitting in the high beam position.

    You should also be able to activate the highbeams only by using the flash to pass feature by pulling the stalk toward you. Highs stay on until you release. You can do this without rotating the stalk through park and lights.
  • kfdmedkfdmed Member Posts: 130
    Has anyone done this themselves? It looks to be fairly simple. Yes/No?
  • kfdmedkfdmed Member Posts: 130
    Just replaced the Goodyear Eagle LS originals. I decided to go with either the Goodyear tripletreds of comfortreds. I picked the tripletreds. Mistake. These tires are noisy and have an hash ride on the intrigue. They handled great but the noise and harshness wore on me. Traded them for the comfortreds (no charge if done within 30 days). The comfortreds are great. Quiet and smooth ride.
  • cornellpinoycornellpinoy Member Posts: 196
    Yes, its very easy to replace. I had to remove mine once to access something behind it.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    I have the Comfortreds also, awesome tire. You don't really give up much in handling and the smoothness and quietness make the Intrigue a real treat to drive.

    Nice they had that 30 day exchange program, I have never hard of that?
  • kfdmedkfdmed Member Posts: 130
    The assurance tires have 30 day exchange offered through goodyear. I based my choice on the consumer reviews on tirerack. Should have gone with the comfortreds originally but wanted the best possible traction in all weather conditions and the tripletreds reviews had the best wet/snow traction ratings. They also had excellent ride and noise ratings. Cant agree with that.
  • kfdmedkfdmed Member Posts: 130
    Thanks for your reply. I will replace it myself. Its torn about half way across. I think I can get the part for about $40 at gmpartsdirect.
  • vanman1vanman1 Member Posts: 1,397
    Ya, I saw the tiretrack thing also.

    I love the tires. GM should put these on all their new midsize cars.
  • samovasamova Member Posts: 6
    There is supposed to be a pollen filter over a little hole under plastic molding outside near passenger side windshield wiper. There is also supposed to be a dirverter so that rain water does not get down into the blower motor but some cars did not have the pollen filter from factory. Get one from Napa they are cheap.
    All Intrigues should have them. Water can get down there and destroy the blower motor. My wife felt water on her feet and sure enought the blower motor started to make noise.
  • focusfocus Member Posts: 225
    they are expensive from dealer, how much is it from Napa? please provide link.
    Can we replace it ourself?
  • shirleycshirleyc Member Posts: 1
    I have just bought a "98 Intrigue & when I was researching it on this site, I read about a problem someone had with water dripping on to the floor of the passenger side when the A/C was on, & someone wrote a solution to this problem. It involved getting at a small hose that was plugged up & was diverting the water. I wonder if whoever did that could repeat it here as I can't remember what page I was reading. Thanks!
  • yammaxim700yammaxim700 Member Posts: 19
    Have a 99 Intrigue also with the manual system. First low went out, then second speed, then third and high. Did you find out what the problem was? I'm assuming it is in my switch in the dash.

    Chad
  • hammen2hammen2 Member Posts: 1,284
    If you're talking about fan speeds, there is a resistor board which goes to heck on a lot of late-90's and newer GM cars. This happened to my wife's 2001 GTP. Strongly suggest Googling for ("resistor board" GM fan speed) (without the parens) and you'll find more than you care to know about this. Expect big $$ for a dealer repair, much less if you're a DIY kinda person.

    --Robert
  • yammaxim700yammaxim700 Member Posts: 19
    Where is this crazy thing located? I have the glove box removed and also the carpet/sound barrier and cannot locate it. Is it between the blower and the firewall? I was hoping to replace it myself.

    Chad
  • moonshadowmoonshadow Member Posts: 256
    It is in the air plenum with the blower motor.

    You can see the wire harness of the resistor pack coming out just between the blower motor and the firewall. The plug has four or five wires and are in a straight line, normally the connector end is blue.

    You need to be a contortionist on the smaller cars like cavalier/grand am.

    Sometimes it is easier to remove the screws and plug of the blower and remove it first to see what you are up against. Especially if it is your first time at it. Mark the position of the motor in the plenum before you remove it with a scratch or white out. This will help with replacement when you are hanging upside down and twisted in the foot well.

    The newer resistor packs have a plasticized coating on them to resist the moisture that they are exposed to. Try to get this and do not take one that isn't or you will be at it again in a couple years.

    From your description, either the resistor bank is fried or the pins are corroded at the plug end, possibly both. If you have an ohm meter you can check for continuity. One end is common and the others tap off the resistor to provide different voltages to the motor. The resistance values are very low, around one to less than one ohm. Therefore, use the lowest ohm/resistance setting on your meter and do not hold the meter leads with your fingers or you will be tricked by measuring your own body resistance.

    Cheers
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