Oldsmobile Intrigue

vanman1

The Intrigue does not have the good sound insulation that you would find on today's cars like the LaCrosse but I have certainly never had the amount of noise you mention. Sounds like the windows are not sealing properly on the top or something. Very strange, you will probably have to try different things to get a fix.

nixter

My blinker won't work on the front driver side of car, but the rear blinker works. It does go faster and it shows up on my dash as being faster, too. My question is how do I change the bulb for the left front blinker? thank you

andy

focus

Please refer to my post in #11684 - "all you had to do was to remove the two front white bar holding the light assembly to gain access" after you open the front hood of course.
i had the exact same problem, just remember to put the big round rubber caps back on when you are finished

nixter

Thanks for the help. I changed the bulb, but it still wont work. The bulb works, but doesn't blink. The rear driver side blinker blinks fast, and the dash shows that it blinks fast too. Would it be the fuse? I changed that but still no luck either. Any advice?

erwhat

I took it out on the interstate, local race track, was travelling between 75 and 85 mph, and the noise did not occur. I am not sure if it is an air pressure issue, or if it is caused by a strong side wind. Anyway the car runs and rides great, and I am very thankful of it's fuel economy right now.

Thanks,

evandro

Sounds like it's not the right replacement or it's defective. Make sure to get the bulb 4157NAK (all letters are important, accept no substitutes).

It could also be that the socket is burnt out. Make a visual inspection and replace it if necessary. It seems to be a common occurrence.

HTH

focus

i concurred.
hope that works for you.

olds_blue

I own a 2000 Olds Intrigue GX and after owning it for these five years (55,000 miles), I am beginning to question if my first car purchase was a "smart" buy. My very first car to drive was an Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera ('88) and it drove and handled with precision. My parents only drove Oldsmobiles and they never really experienced any major problems. In the five years that I've owned my car it has landed in the repair shop on to many occasions to count. I've experience the passenger floor flooding, the gear shifting knob breaking two times, replaced more faulty crank sensors than I can remember, the air conditioner blower wouldn't shut off when the engine was off, engine leaks, oil leaks, etc... Perhaps I expected too much of GM and Oldsmobile and its past reliability and figured it was a "safe" first car purchase. All I know is my car is once again in the shop for the hesitation on acceleration problem for the umpteenth time. It's funny how once you've reached the 3 year/36,000 mile warranty, all the problems seem to happen with more regularity. I'm hoping that regular checkups and good car maintenance will allow me to own this Olds for another five years with minor problems. I've already replaced all four of my tires. What do you think are my chances? I'm wondering if I should have taken my chances and opted for a used car for my first car. It's more frustration than anything else.

focus

i am sorry about the problem you experienced, oldsblue; it seems no matter which brand you own, somehow someone would ended up with one of these lemon . I have heard story about friend of friend who owns a bmw, audi, benz, you name it, all with horror stories on fixing it from day one.

while we are on the topic of warranty and repairs, i have a 2001 GL with 65,000 km with extended warranty going to expire next september. Is there any way i can have them fix/replace any potential problem before it happen

mick1

I have a 99 GLS which will be passing 141,000mi today. I had a 3yr/75k mi ext warranty. The first repair I had to pay for was at 91,000. Only minor stuff before that. After 5yrs and 110,000 mi every other month I had to fix something costing me anywhere from $300-$1200 dollars. The car runs great, but when a 2004 GTO came looking for me last december I couldn't resist. Needless to say the intrigue needs some repairs, but as long as it doesn't affect the way the cars runs and it runs on reg gas(GTO needs premium), it's still nice to drive. good luck with yours.

ab348

My 2002 does the same thing occasionally at high speed if the wind is coming from a certain direction. I think it is the door frames pulling away slightly from the weatherseal due to air pressure. I haven't been able to find a cure.

anchony

After I shifted into Park and turned the ignition off, the ignition key is stuck and I am unable to remove it. The key can turn to all positions and start but won't come out. This has never happened before. Can anyone help, thanks.

pat

Maybe the steering wheel is locked? Can you loosen it with your left hand while you take the key out with the other?

erwhat

Glad I am not alone out there, I am taking a long drive this weekend I was going to put a little white grease on the rubber seal around the window and see if that helps.

olds_blue

My hesitation on acceleration problem continues. Let's see, I've had the fuel injectors and fuel rails cleaned (fuel injector service), both the air and fuel filters have been replaced, replaced the front and rear rotors, and replaced the rear brake pads. As I mentioned before all four tires have been replaced and the throttle body and intermediate steering shaft have both been removed, cleaned and reinstalled along with the mass air flow sensor and IAT (not sure what that is). Since March '05, $3500 in repairs. When a diagnostic check is done via the computer, no computer codes are reported as faulty. I was hoping the problem would have been solved. No, the car continues to hesitate and it's become more noticeable. I read somewhere that it may be termed "lurching" which could be caused by incorrect engine timing or the exhaust gas recirculation (EGV) valve may be faulty. I'll be spending yet another "off" day to fix this problem and quite possibly looking around for a different car.

huciwdu

that coul have been your tires also
on my 98 olds i had some old tires and it was LOUD, 2 years ago i installed michelin hydroedge and the noiz cut down by half.
or you can close the window next time

huciwdu

i got a 98 olds w3.8L and i have 137,000 miles on it and i have no problems with it and i had it for 3.5 years and over 80,000 all i replaced was the starter battery and alternator(custom upgrade from 120amps to 185amps) so i would say BUY
Ohh.. i also sell auto parts for a living and i can tell you stick with GM
stay away from hyunday dewoo kia any import that has a timing belt that you need to change every 40k to 60k if not say bye bye you your heads. and i sold a lot of those. and also how they say that American cars suck and asian cars rule. from selling parts i know that when people buy a car to go to church they buy a honda and etc.. but when they want to go to work they buy american, well guess what car is going to last longer. yea so BUY GM

huciwdu

the thing i would try to change in your car is the PCV valve. no one ever changes it and it you don`t change it than you dont have specific pressure in your crank and it will choke when i replace it in my olds. i gained 1/3 of my power back and at137k 1/3 of my power back AND IT FELT GOOD. also chane your plugs again since you need AC DELCO PLATNUM plugs only. NO bosh platnum + ( worst plug ever) also go to a transmission place and have them check your trans i think aamco does that 4 free. since the speed sensor might be off.

classicbuff

I seem to be having the DRL problem that I've seen mentioned on this board. The socket was fried, so I replaced it with the part number I saw in another post. It worked fine for a week, then started the "fast blink" again. I've used three different bulbs, and all that works is the running light part. Could the new socket have burned already, or does this sound like a wiring problem? this really has me stumped, and I would appreciate your ideas!
Thanks!

huciwdu

Im looking for a wire diagram for my 98 olds (i dont want to buy it ) does anyone know a site where i can DL it i have a small short somewhere in my ground for my dash and i would like to find it B4 it burns something last week i was driving 2 work and for about 5sec all my gauges started jumping and all my control lights turned on !!all of them!! and than everything went back to normal and than this yesterday my blinker started to act up. it blinked slow(regular) and than for 10sec very fast than it went back 2 normal ( both incidents happened only once )

huciwdu

if its doing that only on one side try to swap the light bulb to the other side to see if the problem is withe the bulb itself if not take the head light out and plug it in on the other side (will not fit to ride but it will tell you if the short is in the headlight wiring or not just play around with it. also put in some dialectic grease it will extend the life of your socket and you`r bulb

huciwdu

i have a simmiliar thing with my 98 olds intrigue and i have had the same problem for the past 3 years i dont know exacly what it is but it is 100% in the transmission, its almost as if the neutral safety switch is getting stuck and it unlocks itself when you start driving. and at night time i bet that you can see your lights dimm for a split second when it makes that sound.

classicbuff

I took your advice and what I did was switched the sockets, with the bulbs in them. They both worked, and they've been working for the second day now.
Good idea!
Thanks!

huciwdu

Good im glad i helped. But don`t forget to put dialectic grease in the socket so it does not burn again.

huciwdu

huciwdu

Just a quick Q: has anyone done a radiator flush after 120k for the first time on the 3.8L Olds and did not have amy problems after it. I have 137k and still the sys has not been flushed yet. im afraid that if im going to flush it i will clean out some of the dirt from the seals/gaskets and they will start to leak and cause other problems. Q:Should i flush it or no? i work with auto parts for the past 5 years and i know people that did the flush and have had some other problems after flushing the system. :confuse:

classicbuff

I'll do that-thanks again!

elrik

On my 99 Olds intrigue my DRL/blinker on the right side no longer blinks. I went trough 2 bulbs in one week. I put some conducting grease on the socket so far with no positive results. I do notice when I pull out the bulb there is some carbon marks on the base of the bulb. The Filaments are fine. I am considering bringing this car to a mechanic for further troubleshooting and diagnosis but I am wondering if they will really be able to find out what's wrong with the situation and don't want to be charged an arm and leg with uncertain results. I already moved the socket to the left side and that didn't help out. Any help is greatly appreciated.

dtownfb

Check the socket itself. YOu problem need to replace it. Very simple. It will take about 5 minutes. Problem is you can only get the part from GM, either through the dealer or online.

vealboy

I don't mean to hi-jack your thread, but I read your post and I thought of my 2000 blue Intrigue. I just replaced the intermediate steering shaft because it was pulling out of some gasket and making noise and giving me feedback in the steering wheel on turns. I have had the car 2 years and have just turned 46k miles.

Anyone have any thoughts on why a part like this needs to be replaced so early in a car's life?

elrik

would you know the part #?

elrik

Do you know the part # of the socket?

huciwdu

do you gave hyper white or blue xeon ligh bulbs in there if es they are draining to much power, if not do you have that plastic/rubber cover to seal your lights if not you might have water/moisture getting inside your bulbs if not than good luck since a mechanic is going to charge you $75per hour for elecrical diagnostic and for that price you can get a whole new headlight on Ebay i think last time i checked it was aroud $40+ shipping.
I recommend new headlight. and all your troublr Bgone.

dtownfb

The part number is 12456483.

I don't think auto parts stores carry this part. Try gmpartsdirect.com or a dealer. It's cheaper to buy it online.

Confirm it is the socket first. Take a look and if you notice a "burned" residue on the connectors, you need to replace the socket. It will take you about 5 minutes to replace the part.

moonshadow

Anyone have any thoughts on why a part like this needs to be replaced so early in a car's life?
It's not just intigue with this, the intermediate shaft applies to most mid size GM's

Typical poorly designed GM "Aftermarket OE parts" :
>Intermediate shafts
>Alternaters
>ABS sensors
>Wheel bearings
>Blower motor ballast resistors
>Door/dome light switches
>Rotors
>Ignition key switchs
>Fuel pumps
>Power window regulators/motors

Small sample of parts that GM commissions for their cars. The bean counters only care if they make it through the warranty period.

So many people wonder why Delphi has declared bankruptcy and why Gm is not looking so smooth either. People are fed up.

Sorry, rant over. Just finished unfolding myself from replacing another ballast resitor on a sunfire. Winter is coming and for some strange reason, people like to defog their windshield.

ccarbaugh

I have a 99 intrigue and my right turning socket is shot and have the part number. Does anyone have a part number for the left(driver) corning light socket?? It has power to it but don't light the lamp. Has to be the socket. Just looking for the part number. Thanks.

bennycheck

They did have a lot of problems with the ISS on all their mid size cars. There's a service bulletin on it but no recall. Do a search on this site and I'm sure you'll find it. There's also a lube that can fix it but for what it's worth, I replaced the shaft and had my mechanic use the lube kit on the new shaft before he installed it. That was over 35K miles ago and all is well. Total repair bill was around $260.00 including the kit from GM direct. That, and a blower fan for the heater is the only money I've spent on my '00 except for brakes and oil changes. It's got 112K miles on it and it's still going strong. Still a blast to drive and it still looks great. I'm going to really hate to give it up, if it ever dies. Best car I've ever owned.

larry51

Had the same problem on both front blinkers. Dealer detected that the bulb
sockets were faulty. I went through 6-8 bulbs in several weeks. Since we replaced
the sockets.....no problems at all. Cut the wires near the old socket(s) and tie into new ones.

jhd

Scared the heck out of me on the highway.
Here are the facts:
Engine shut down (Olds 98 GL, 150k km, 3800 engine), all dashboard lights are on. There were no bumps on the road. Happened a couple of times.
Sometime when taken from park to drive and release the brake, I hear calipers release (click), and ABS comes on. If I shut down and restart (no problems to restart), ABS resets.
Engine shut down happens during full speed or just slow crawl in the traffic.

3 years ago the same happened, ignition switch was replaced, never had problems till now. No fault code was stored back then. I was told then that heavy keys would do that slowly to the switch, as these switches are not designed for heavy loads, opposed to column switches that are more robust. But I was careful and only had remote on my key chain, could it be a switch again?

Some more puzzled things: few days ago my rear window all of the sudden started working. I traced the problem few months ago to the seized motor, but never did anything to it. Now it works. The same day it started working, for the first time engine shut down. I presume this was coincidence. It has been raining for three days, wet weather could also be a factor I presume.

So again, could it be ignition switch? Any other possibilities?
Thanks in advance.

elrik

Your correct. Thanks for the advice and part #. The bulbs that were burning out did have the tell tale residue on the connectors. I ordered the part and so far so good. The light has been up and running for 2 days without burning out. My car is almost all taken care of the only thing is left is the lights on my shifter column do not illuminate. I guess the bulb is burnt out. Is this an arduous task to fix and what does it entail to replace the bulb?
I guess I should get a Chiltons at this point.

dtownfb

No need for Chilton. Someone posted a nice detailed message on how to change the shifter bulb. I followed the directions and changed it myself. NO probllems. it did take about 30 minutes because I was pretty cautious plus I have pretty big hands.

Do a search on this forum. It even shows what bulb size you need.

htwired

Oldsmobile Intrigue's have a splined intermediate shaft. It is a poor design and prone to failure. I own a 2000 Intrigue; bought it new. It now has 70,400 miles. The intermediate shaft was replaced under warranty at 27,000 and again today at 70,400. Average life of this shaft is less than 40,000 miles and costs $220 to replace.

dtownfb

IF you ar referring to the steering shaft, yes it is a poor design. But replacing it does not resolve the problem as you found out. Many of us have jsut bought grease and got under the steerign wheel and greased the joint ourselves. This seems to "fix" the steering temporarily. Not bad for a $3 can of grease.

vanman1

I have not had mine replaced and I now have 90K kms on the dial. Had it lubed once, never had another issue. They checked it at the dealer last month and it was a-ok. It's an issue but not a bad one for a great car.

vealboy

Good Grief! That must be some sort of design flaw.

vealboy

Typical poorly designed GM "Aftermarket OE parts" :
>Intermediate shafts
>Alternators
>ABS sensors
>Wheel bearings
>Blower motor ballast resistors
>Door/dome light switches
>Rotors
>Ignition key switches
>Fuel pumps
>Power window regulators/motors
Good Grief!! Well from this list I have replaced the intermediate shaft, ABS Sensor, rotors, ignition key switch. Friday I will have the dealer look into why the engine shuts down during operation. Someone here said it maybe a crankshaft sensor, someone else suggested it might be a fuel pump.

I also need to have them replace the blower motor ballast, the HVAC only works on the highest setting.

I hate the fact that 99% of the time I am posting I seem to be ranting about my car. When things are running fine, I do love the car, and I would really like to keep it as long as I can. I just hope the car does not put me in the poorhouse with repairs before I pay it off.

dtownfb

It also could be the ignition module as well.

gameface

Can you give me an idea of where the PCV valve is, and what
does it look like?

racer_x_9

Regarding the PCV valve, do you have the 3.8 or the shortstar engine?

If it's the 3.8 you have - I can post instructions. It takes all of 5 minutes to change. I don't know about the shorstar.

mick1

3.5v6 take off the engine cover it's at the front just to the right side of the engine you'll see it because it looks like a pcv valve