By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
Chad
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Thanks
Yes they do do a lot of these in almost all of gm lines. I went to my local dealer for a couple resistors for cavaliers and sunfire and this one dealer had 46 in stock of a town of two gm dealerships and 120 000 peoples.
You are correct, it is done from under the dash in the passenger foot well. Some older cars, pre early 90's, had the blower accessible from under the hood as well as the old style resistive coils. These gm now have them removed from under the pass dash.
hehe, i guess i left that bit out of my previous post. That's from assuming.eh,
Now if you want to change the pollen filter, if you have one, that is done from under the hood and you can see the top of the squirell cage part of the blower, deep in the plenum once the filter is removed
cheers
Over the weekend, my windows decided to stop working. I've got three windows closed and my rear driver window about 1/3 open. They all failed at the same time, so I'm assuming it's an electrical problem, rather than 4 bad motors. The fuses in the underhood fuse box have been checked and cleared. Is there perhaps a fuse box under the dash or could it be a bad wire or such? I really am in a tight financial situation for the next couple months and I want to avoid taking it to a shop just yet. Don't worry, I've got another vehicle (ergo my tight $ situation) for these hot summer days. Thanks for any help!
Howdy.
Circuit path from battery.
Ign2 fuse 50 amp under hood--- controls windows/sunroof, radio /cruise, wipers aux power outlet
Rap(Retained Accessory Power) relay--- controls windows /sunroof, radio /cruise
30 amp circuit breaker in instrument panel --- controls windows /sunroof
Then a yellow wire goes to the driver door master window switch and taps off to each motor though a corresponding up/down switch. or through the lock out switch to individual door switches.
I would suspect the 30 amp CB if the other options listed above all work. If not the CB (should read a short or 0 ohms on a meter) Then place a meter on dc volts at the yellow wire and to the black wire (ground) at the master door switch to see if power is making it that far. Key to on don't forget.
Then measure to chassis ground and the yellow wire to verify that it is not the ground that is missing.
Getting access to the master switch wires is by lifting up with a quick jerk on the switch panel at the door handle end. It has a plastic tab that hooks under the door panel at the front end.
I cannot imagine all the switches are flaky unless the whole switch melted something fierce and i think you would have smelled that.
If the Cb is toast, you will have to determine wich motor/door circuit popped it.
I don't know if this is too much or not enough info for ya but let me know and i'll give it a another go.
I appreciate all the wealth of electrical knowledge you imparted on the topic, but it turns out, it was a very easy fix.
I pulled off the panel on the driver's door (as you suggested) to find the tangle of wires connecting to the window switches, mirrors and window lock. Apparently the connector for the windows was not plugged in. I just plugged it back in and the windows worked fine. Good thing I didn't take it somewhere to get fixed.
I checked my Chilton's manual, but there is not one thing mentioned regarding the electrical system of the windows. Only the motors and regulators within the doors.
Thanks for the help!
I cannot imagine all the switches are flaky unless the whole switch melted something fierce and i think you would have smelled that.
Doh! I should have added, or unless the plug fell out.
Nice find indeed.
cheers
My bet is those darn Eagle LS tires, which cup way too easily. I had exactly the same "whah-whah" sound and slight vibration, which went away along with the loud rolling roar of these tires with the new Yokohama Avid Touring which replaced them, even though I could have got about 20000mls more of the OEM Goodyear. i just couldn't stand them an longer.
HTH
I also asked to clean injectors, once they were out.
And now I have a small problem. Ever since the visit there, car takes 10% to15% more fuel then before the manifold fix. Before the visit I could drive 400 km from full tank before the light came on, now only 360-370 km, consistently.
I know that manifold would have nothing to do with fuel consumption, but, I also noticed that some of the intake air honeycomb insert was pressed and does not pass uniform air flow (about 5% of the surface, just guesstimate). Mechanic told me that injectors were cleaned with a pressurized canister, this is a one shot use so dirty solvent was not an issue. My idle is even, below 800 rpm, car did not lose power comparing to before the manifold was done and there is no problem with cold/hot start. Driving habits were not changed, fuel is the same from reputable stations, no other parts changed. There is no check engine light coming on, if fact, it never have since I own the car.
What messed up my fuel consumption? Could it be that small busted area in the intake?
It must be something else. Is it possible to mess up spark advance or fuel mixture, like in the old days, where you could change it all and how your car run was sort of an art? I thought this is all computer driven and to change anything you need to re-program the chip.
the air is cold. I've been researching and haven't come up with much.
Does anyone know if the vent control is vacuum driven or electronic?
i also have the clunking noise in the front, same response.
what a rip off!
Engine air filter 32.00.
Fuel filter 65.00.
PCV valve 15.00
Fuel injection service 116.00
Transmission service 120.00
Ball shaft seal leaking oil 500.00. Needs immediate attention.
The engine air filter is original and needs replaced. I will do myself. I think the filter is like 6 bucks.
The other recommendations are not supported by the owners manual I dont believe.
Can anyone comment on the 500.00 cost to replace ball shaft seal?
It seems that all these prices are about double what they should be.
Fuel injector and transmission service already? I would wait. I have over 50K miles on mine and my dealer said the transmission fluid was fine.
No idea what a ball shaft replace costs.
Never heard of a ball shaft seal leaking.
As to the transmission fluid service--the manual says 50,000 miles if in harsh conditions (high heat, taxi service, mountains). Otherwise, skip it till 150,000. At 67,000 miles (last July), I took my car in because it was shifting hard. They told me that I had failed my car by not changing the transmission fluid. When I confronted the mechanic with the manual, he told me he was right, I was wrong, and I should have known that cold (I'm in Minneapolis) is as harsh as the heat. The transmission shop I took it to later that week (which discovered that my torque converter was failing and ended up rebuilding the whole thing) told me there was no need to change the fluid. However, if you want to be safe, it might not be a bad idea. Also, the Dexcool says no need to change till 150,000 miles, but inside the lid of the reservoir it says after 5 years to change it. This does need to be done, because Dexcool is horrible stuff and can turn to a solid in your system and ruin everything. I switched to regular stuff this year, and it got me through a Minnesota winter and so far one of the hottest summers in decades.
Only my right turning signal is blinking fast (always), the light in the front is blinking fast but the one in rear is normal; i guess i'll change the light bulb first.
No clunking noise when in reverse. The dealer test drove it but told me it's normal but didn't say anything about ABS; i drove other abs cars before but i didn't hear any noise like that.
Good luck
if it's the socket, i sure will bring it back to the dealer as i hope that i will be covered under the extended warranty.
It was the flashing light bulb in the front passenger side that has stopped flashing, thus causing the rear one and the display panel to flash quickly.
The young entry level mechanic from south africa also fixed my rubbing/high pitch noise from the rear, it seems; that problem was looked at twice by 2 senior mechanic but couldn't stop the noise. It prove that attitude can be more useful than experience.
Never heard the grinding that would have told me the pads were gone, but the scored rotors were what clued me in. Now the car stops like new and the pedal is nice and high.
47+K miles and still going strong, though I've noticed a change in the exhaust tone....maybe I'm getting a leak or the muffler's shot? Sounds like my father's 97 3.1 Century, not the throaty 3.8 that I liked. Time for a custom set-up. Can I put duals on? I know I'll have to modify the rear bumper with another cut-out from a junked Trig, but I don't like patchwork bodywork.
Deke
I mean, do you want to be parked and run the car without the lights coming on or do you not want the auto feature to work at dusk.
For the first, apply the E-brake before starting and the lights will not come on.
If you want to disable the auto, then pull the headlamp relay. I believe it's behind the dash near the glove box
Also have been reading about a lot of postings on this forum and hope I have better luck than what I have read. I do appreciate the bulletin on the water leaking into the passenger floor pan, I have that problem in heavy rain. At least I have the ammo now to approach the repair shop.
Any major items I need to be informed of to keep this Intrique running for many years?
I also had a problem with my A/C not cooling very well, but with the car being 6 years old with 75K miles on it I knew it was probably a bit low on refrigerant. Had about one pound added to the system and now it is cold again. The mechanic said I have a small leak in the compressor, but if I can get away with just adding a pound every year or so I'll be happy with that rather than pay for a new compressor. I was also told by two different mechanics that both my front hubs are loose, but I haven't noticed any unusual tire wear so I'll let that issue go until it becomes a problem. I think the handling is a bit more sloppy now than it used to be, probably because of that. Hoping to keep my Intrigue for another 3 years or so, it's been a great car. Enjoy your Intrigue!
it seems all the new Sonata has it.
Where can it be purchased?
I fixed the water problem, it was simple enough. There is a sponge type casket on the cowling that covers the bottom of the windshield and the cabin air filtration intake. I had flattened out this foam to where it was no longer effective, so I replaced the foam type casket and also put the water diversion molding back on the metal above the cabin air filter. No more water leaks, so I felt lucky to escape any expense on that one.
I am still working on the rims, need to find a product that can remove all the black caked on dust/dirt.
I think the car should be a nice vehicle for years to come.
Been on my car 6 1/2 years and still look like new. I reccommend these, especially in hot climates because you can leave the windows open 2 -3 inches and not worry about water getting inside.
In fact, I got a set for the wife's Camry within a month of purchase.
Deke
this is also the first time i see this info posted.
Thank you so much for sharing the info, Deke
My guess is that the wind coming from the south, both days caused enough pressure on the window to cause this noise.
Anyone ever had this happen? Any ideas?