Last week I lost speeds 1 and 2 on the blower also. Took it to the dealer and they replaced it under warranty in about an hour. I got the impression they did a lot of these. The part cost on the invoice was $36 and change Cdn., billed back to GM. From the customer lounge I was able to watch my car being worked on and the repair was done under the dash, not under the hood.
I have '98 Olds Intrigue GL with auto climate control and recently it started blowing air through all of the vents regardless of the mode selected. Even when the front defroster button is pressed, I can feel air on the floor, panel vents and defroster. Any suggestions on what to check?
Yes they do do a lot of these in almost all of gm lines. I went to my local dealer for a couple resistors for cavaliers and sunfire and this one dealer had 46 in stock of a town of two gm dealerships and 120 000 peoples.
You are correct, it is done from under the dash in the passenger foot well. Some older cars, pre early 90's, had the blower accessible from under the hood as well as the old style resistive coils. These gm now have them removed from under the pass dash.
hehe, i guess i left that bit out of my previous post. That's from assuming.eh,
Now if you want to change the pollen filter, if you have one, that is done from under the hood and you can see the top of the squirell cage part of the blower, deep in the plenum once the filter is removed
Over the weekend, my windows decided to stop working. I've got three windows closed and my rear driver window about 1/3 open. They all failed at the same time, so I'm assuming it's an electrical problem, rather than 4 bad motors. The fuses in the underhood fuse box have been checked and cleared. Is there perhaps a fuse box under the dash or could it be a bad wire or such? I really am in a tight financial situation for the next couple months and I want to avoid taking it to a shop just yet. Don't worry, I've got another vehicle (ergo my tight $ situation) for these hot summer days. Thanks for any help!
You might also want to check out our Electrical Problems discussions for other posts about similar situations (try the Search This Discussion box on the top and the bottom of the block of messages). Feel free to repost there as well - good luck!
Circuit path from battery. Ign2 fuse 50 amp under hood--- controls windows/sunroof, radio /cruise, wipers aux power outlet Rap(Retained Accessory Power) relay--- controls windows /sunroof, radio /cruise
30 amp circuit breaker in instrument panel --- controls windows /sunroof Then a yellow wire goes to the driver door master window switch and taps off to each motor though a corresponding up/down switch. or through the lock out switch to individual door switches.
I would suspect the 30 amp CB if the other options listed above all work. If not the CB (should read a short or 0 ohms on a meter) Then place a meter on dc volts at the yellow wire and to the black wire (ground) at the master door switch to see if power is making it that far. Key to on don't forget. Then measure to chassis ground and the yellow wire to verify that it is not the ground that is missing. Getting access to the master switch wires is by lifting up with a quick jerk on the switch panel at the door handle end. It has a plastic tab that hooks under the door panel at the front end.
I cannot imagine all the switches are flaky unless the whole switch melted something fierce and i think you would have smelled that.
If the Cb is toast, you will have to determine wich motor/door circuit popped it. I don't know if this is too much or not enough info for ya but let me know and i'll give it a another go.
I appreciate all the wealth of electrical knowledge you imparted on the topic, but it turns out, it was a very easy fix. I pulled off the panel on the driver's door (as you suggested) to find the tangle of wires connecting to the window switches, mirrors and window lock. Apparently the connector for the windows was not plugged in. I just plugged it back in and the windows worked fine. Good thing I didn't take it somewhere to get fixed. I checked my Chilton's manual, but there is not one thing mentioned regarding the electrical system of the windows. Only the motors and regulators within the doors. Thanks for the help!
My guess is that years of vibration coupled with an increasingly loose switch panel lead to the plug falling out. Of course that doesn't explain why the other plugs didn't fall out.
I've got a 2K GS. Lately, driving my car has not been fun. I get a lot of vibration and noise coming off the car while in motion, and some minor movement in the steering wheel that matches the tire rotation. The sound sounds like a blown bearing when I listen to it reflecting off other vehicles I'm driving next to, or a retaining wall. Based on responses I've seen on here and other places, I'm inclined to think its the hub, but the steering wheel vibration is also a sign in CV joint issues.. I'm pretty comfortable changing the hub myself, CV joint not so much.. I can handle a "brake change" plus 4 bolts and a cable... Don't know what involved with changing the CV though. Any answers you guys can give me would be excellent.
Hi. First post from a long time reader. I have 2K GX with 92K miles, relatively trouble free. However, I lost 4th gear a few weeks back and I'm leaning towards having it fixed ($2.5K at the dealer for a rebuilt tranny, but with 3yr/50K mi warranty) and driving it for a few more years, but I'm concerned about future problems. Anyone with an Intrigue over 100K? Any problems I should be aware of? Thanks in advance.
My 2K GX is sensitive to tire imbalance. When I start feeling vibration in the wheel or suspension, having the tires rebalanced usually does the trick. However, since you're also hearing noise (is it oscillating?) then it sounds like a bad bearing.
How old are your tires? Are they OEM? Our Intrigue was vibrating like crazy but it turned out one of the tires had some snapped belts in them. The tires were done so we got new tires and the car drives like new.
I have a 1999 Intrigue Gl and looked for 6 months for a similiar problem. Had rotors, bearings, pads all checked. Then on spec changed rear tires which looked fine and that was the problem. It was a low pitch whump, whump noise.
Yeah, the sound does... matches the slight movement of the steering wheel as well.. Its all tied together by something... could be the balance too. I do need new tires soon, but there is no warping, bulges, etc on them.. not at the wear indicators yet, so I'm kinda pushing it since I'm broke.. Is it true that there would be some popping noises when the car is stationary and turning the steering if it was the CV's? Car does not do that... its only when the car is in motion, and I can only really start to hear anything if I'm going over 15 or 20 mph... I just wanna get to the bottom of this so I can budget the fix. Thanks for the reply
I understand not wanting to buy tires on spec. I borrowed two tires already mounted on wheels and tried them. Once I knew problem would be fixed with new tires I went out and bought new. There was still mileage left on the old but...
Checking the CV joints is easy: find a cul-de-sac and drive in circles in both directions at a slow speed. If they're bad, you should hear the popping sounds clearly by sticking your neck out of the window.
My bet is those darn Eagle LS tires, which cup way too easily. I had exactly the same "whah-whah" sound and slight vibration, which went away along with the loud rolling roar of these tires with the new Yokohama Avid Touring which replaced them, even though I could have got about 20000mls more of the OEM Goodyear. i just couldn't stand them an longer.
My 98 Intrigue with 3800 engine was in the shop for intake manifold (140k km, 87k Mi) back in April. I also asked to clean injectors, once they were out. And now I have a small problem. Ever since the visit there, car takes 10% to15% more fuel then before the manifold fix. Before the visit I could drive 400 km from full tank before the light came on, now only 360-370 km, consistently. I know that manifold would have nothing to do with fuel consumption, but, I also noticed that some of the intake air honeycomb insert was pressed and does not pass uniform air flow (about 5% of the surface, just guesstimate). Mechanic told me that injectors were cleaned with a pressurized canister, this is a one shot use so dirty solvent was not an issue. My idle is even, below 800 rpm, car did not lose power comparing to before the manifold was done and there is no problem with cold/hot start. Driving habits were not changed, fuel is the same from reputable stations, no other parts changed. There is no check engine light coming on, if fact, it never have since I own the car.
What messed up my fuel consumption? Could it be that small busted area in the intake?
Almost overnight, my 99 3.5 has increased its oil consumption 4-fold. Last year or two, used about half quart in 5,000 miles. Now it is suddenly at about 1 quart in 2,000 miles. Anyone have a clue why it would suddenly increase so much? I replaced the PCV valve yesterday (it's a stretch, I know) and it doesn't appear to be leaking. Small amount of tailpipe smoke on cold start, but not bad. Anyone?
Changing air filter was my first guess too. I changed it right after I noticed the increase and fuel consumption did not go lower. It must be something else. Is it possible to mess up spark advance or fuel mixture, like in the old days, where you could change it all and how your car run was sort of an art? I thought this is all computer driven and to change anything you need to re-program the chip.
I have a 99GLS with 139,000mi. My oil usage problem was solved by the dealer using top engine cleaner to clean out the carbon. This was done at 72,000. The oil usage at that time had been steadily increasing to a quart every 1200mi. I never had any smoke out of the tail pipe.
My '98 Intrigue just started doing the exact same thing. Most of the air is coming through the middle vents, but it is much more restricted then before. A bit comes through the defrost vents and floor. As with yours, nothing changes when pressing mode. Fan speed does change, and the air is cold. I've been researching and haven't come up with much. Does anyone know if the vent control is vacuum driven or electronic?
bought my car in to dealer for service, they said it may or may not be covered under my extended gm warranty; if not i'll be charged a $49.9 diagnosis charge plus the cost of the bulb! i also have the clunking noise in the front, same response. what a rip off!
Had the oil changed today on my 2000 GL with 33,000 miles at the ex-olds dealer which is now used car super center. They recommended ... Engine air filter 32.00. Fuel filter 65.00. PCV valve 15.00 Fuel injection service 116.00 Transmission service 120.00 Ball shaft seal leaking oil 500.00. Needs immediate attention.
The engine air filter is original and needs replaced. I will do myself. I think the filter is like 6 bucks.
The other recommendations are not supported by the owners manual I dont believe.
Can anyone comment on the 500.00 cost to replace ball shaft seal?
It seems that all these prices are about double what they should be.
Air filter you can do yourself. Even though you only have 33,000 miles, you may want to change the fuel filter since the car is 5 years old. PCV - maybe. Again the 5 years is what may drive you. Transmission service - up to you. If it is shifitng fine, wait til next year.
My turn signal would be fast, then normal, then fast again. I replaced the bulb (because it had burned out), but it burned out again in about a month. They ended up replacing the turn signal socket. It was $33 for the part and $48 (1 hour) for the labor. Try that. As to the clunk, does it happen when in reverse? My 1998 does that, and the answer I got was that it was my ABS registering/warming up/getting ready. So far, no problems with it. Hope the turn signal helps.
Am in total agreement on air filter. I've never done one before, but this was easy. As to the transmission fluid service--the manual says 50,000 miles if in harsh conditions (high heat, taxi service, mountains). Otherwise, skip it till 150,000. At 67,000 miles (last July), I took my car in because it was shifting hard. They told me that I had failed my car by not changing the transmission fluid. When I confronted the mechanic with the manual, he told me he was right, I was wrong, and I should have known that cold (I'm in Minneapolis) is as harsh as the heat. The transmission shop I took it to later that week (which discovered that my torque converter was failing and ended up rebuilding the whole thing) told me there was no need to change the fluid. However, if you want to be safe, it might not be a bad idea. Also, the Dexcool says no need to change till 150,000 miles, but inside the lid of the reservoir it says after 5 years to change it. This does need to be done, because Dexcool is horrible stuff and can turn to a solid in your system and ruin everything. I switched to regular stuff this year, and it got me through a Minnesota winter and so far one of the hottest summers in decades.
Thanks for sharing the info. Only my right turning signal is blinking fast (always), the light in the front is blinking fast but the one in rear is normal; i guess i'll change the light bulb first. No clunking noise when in reverse. The dealer test drove it but told me it's normal but didn't say anything about ABS; i drove other abs cars before but i didn't hear any noise like that.
When you change the lightbulb, look into the socket and see if there is any burned connector near the bottom. This is what is causing the turn signal failure. The socket is only available at the dealership or online. It will cost you about $35 for the socket. It takes about 3 minutes to change yourself. Just remember to lift up on the tab when disconnecting the socket from the wires.....then it will take only 2 minutes.
Thanks for the additional info. if it's the socket, i sure will bring it back to the dealer as i hope that i will be covered under the extended warranty.
It's been fixed! While i was doing my oil change, i had them change the light bulb in the front for a mere $4.00; it's the same kind of work the dealer was going to charge me $55/hr plus the cost of the light bulb. (all you had to do was to remove the two front white bar holding the light assembly to gain access) It was the flashing light bulb in the front passenger side that has stopped flashing, thus causing the rear one and the display panel to flash quickly. The young entry level mechanic from south africa also fixed my rubbing/high pitch noise from the rear, it seems; that problem was looked at twice by 2 senior mechanic but couldn't stop the noise. It prove that attitude can be more useful than experience.
Had my brakes done last week. Second time since I've had the car (bought 1/99 - first brake job Decelber '99). Seems like I had NO pads on the rear - two new rotors and ceramic pads. Fronts were almost as bad - 2 new rotors and ceramic pads. Flushed the system as the original fluid was contaminated with moisture.
Never heard the grinding that would have told me the pads were gone, but the scored rotors were what clued me in. Now the car stops like new and the pedal is nice and high.
47+K miles and still going strong, though I've noticed a change in the exhaust tone....maybe I'm getting a leak or the muffler's shot? Sounds like my father's 97 3.1 Century, not the throaty 3.8 that I liked. Time for a custom set-up. Can I put duals on? I know I'll have to modify the rear bumper with another cut-out from a junked Trig, but I don't like patchwork bodywork.
Just purchased a 2002 with 39K miles, Chrome wheels are in tough shape. Is there a product that will clean these up?
Also have been reading about a lot of postings on this forum and hope I have better luck than what I have read. I do appreciate the bulletin on the water leaking into the passenger floor pan, I have that problem in heavy rain. At least I have the ammo now to approach the repair shop.
Any major items I need to be informed of to keep this Intrique running for many years?
Never experienced any leaks into the passenger floor pan, but most of the issues I've encountered are the common ones you see on this thread - intermediate steering shaft needs lube periodically and crankshaft sensor causes hesitation/stalling. I've also had problems with my Intrigue eating batteries, I go through a battery in 1-2 years. I think it may have to do with my positive battery terminal though, because a few weeks ago my Intrigue wouldn't start and I wiggled the cable on the positive terminal and it started right up. I cleaned the terminals up that weekend and it's been fine since.
I also had a problem with my A/C not cooling very well, but with the car being 6 years old with 75K miles on it I knew it was probably a bit low on refrigerant. Had about one pound added to the system and now it is cold again. The mechanic said I have a small leak in the compressor, but if I can get away with just adding a pound every year or so I'll be happy with that rather than pay for a new compressor. I was also told by two different mechanics that both my front hubs are loose, but I haven't noticed any unusual tire wear so I'll let that issue go until it becomes a problem. I think the handling is a bit more sloppy now than it used to be, probably because of that. Hoping to keep my Intrigue for another 3 years or so, it's been a great car. Enjoy your Intrigue!
I just purchased a 2002 GL with 23K. I am interested in adding a rear spoiler. Having searched a number of sites I noticed a wide disparity in sizes. From 56" to 59" in length and 6 1/4" to 11 3/4" wide. Can anybody give me some dimensions more closely suited to the original Olds spoiler.
I fixed the water problem, it was simple enough. There is a sponge type casket on the cowling that covers the bottom of the windshield and the cabin air filtration intake. I had flattened out this foam to where it was no longer effective, so I replaced the foam type casket and also put the water diversion molding back on the metal above the cabin air filter. No more water leaks, so I felt lucky to escape any expense on that one.
I am still working on the rims, need to find a product that can remove all the black caked on dust/dirt.
I think the car should be a nice vehicle for years to come.
I ordered mine from Mats.com before I even took delivery of my Trig back in 99! These are the ones that fit inside the window channel NOT the glue-on ones.
Been on my car 6 1/2 years and still look like new. I reccommend these, especially in hot climates because you can leave the windows open 2 -3 inches and not worry about water getting inside. In fact, I got a set for the wife's Camry within a month of purchase.
It's not that I want to disable the automatic headlights, I think they're a great feature. I was just wondering if there was a way to turn them off or just turn on the DRLs for a few moments and then switch back to full headlights. Currently, if I move the headlight switch to DRL and the car turned them on already, it has no effect. In my Rendezvous, if I move the headlight switch to parking lights at night the headlights turn off.
Impressive, wish i had known this when i first got my car 3.5 years ago, it would have kept the rain, sun, wind out all these years. this is also the first time i see this info posted. Thank you so much for sharing the info, Deke
This weekend I took my 2002 GL for a 500 mile trip. I was very impressed with the car and it's handling and passing ability. While I was travelling at speeds between 77 and 85 mph there was a loud wind noise, like a howling siren almost. I was surprised to say the least but I had plenty of time to try and figure it out. I found that I could stop the noise by cracking the passenger window, a hair. On the return leg of my trip I had to do the same thing but this time on the driver side.
My guess is that the wind coming from the south, both days caused enough pressure on the window to cause this noise.
Comments
Chad
2017 Cadillac ATS Performance Premium 3.6
Thanks
Yes they do do a lot of these in almost all of gm lines. I went to my local dealer for a couple resistors for cavaliers and sunfire and this one dealer had 46 in stock of a town of two gm dealerships and 120 000 peoples.
You are correct, it is done from under the dash in the passenger foot well. Some older cars, pre early 90's, had the blower accessible from under the hood as well as the old style resistive coils. These gm now have them removed from under the pass dash.
hehe, i guess i left that bit out of my previous post. That's from assuming.eh,
Now if you want to change the pollen filter, if you have one, that is done from under the hood and you can see the top of the squirell cage part of the blower, deep in the plenum once the filter is removed
cheers
Over the weekend, my windows decided to stop working. I've got three windows closed and my rear driver window about 1/3 open. They all failed at the same time, so I'm assuming it's an electrical problem, rather than 4 bad motors. The fuses in the underhood fuse box have been checked and cleared. Is there perhaps a fuse box under the dash or could it be a bad wire or such? I really am in a tight financial situation for the next couple months and I want to avoid taking it to a shop just yet. Don't worry, I've got another vehicle (ergo my tight $ situation) for these hot summer days. Thanks for any help!
Howdy.
Circuit path from battery.
Ign2 fuse 50 amp under hood--- controls windows/sunroof, radio /cruise, wipers aux power outlet
Rap(Retained Accessory Power) relay--- controls windows /sunroof, radio /cruise
30 amp circuit breaker in instrument panel --- controls windows /sunroof
Then a yellow wire goes to the driver door master window switch and taps off to each motor though a corresponding up/down switch. or through the lock out switch to individual door switches.
I would suspect the 30 amp CB if the other options listed above all work. If not the CB (should read a short or 0 ohms on a meter) Then place a meter on dc volts at the yellow wire and to the black wire (ground) at the master door switch to see if power is making it that far. Key to on don't forget.
Then measure to chassis ground and the yellow wire to verify that it is not the ground that is missing.
Getting access to the master switch wires is by lifting up with a quick jerk on the switch panel at the door handle end. It has a plastic tab that hooks under the door panel at the front end.
I cannot imagine all the switches are flaky unless the whole switch melted something fierce and i think you would have smelled that.
If the Cb is toast, you will have to determine wich motor/door circuit popped it.
I don't know if this is too much or not enough info for ya but let me know and i'll give it a another go.
I appreciate all the wealth of electrical knowledge you imparted on the topic, but it turns out, it was a very easy fix.
I pulled off the panel on the driver's door (as you suggested) to find the tangle of wires connecting to the window switches, mirrors and window lock. Apparently the connector for the windows was not plugged in. I just plugged it back in and the windows worked fine. Good thing I didn't take it somewhere to get fixed.
I checked my Chilton's manual, but there is not one thing mentioned regarding the electrical system of the windows. Only the motors and regulators within the doors.
Thanks for the help!
I cannot imagine all the switches are flaky unless the whole switch melted something fierce and i think you would have smelled that.
Doh! I should have added, or unless the plug fell out.
Nice find indeed.
cheers
My bet is those darn Eagle LS tires, which cup way too easily. I had exactly the same "whah-whah" sound and slight vibration, which went away along with the loud rolling roar of these tires with the new Yokohama Avid Touring which replaced them, even though I could have got about 20000mls more of the OEM Goodyear. i just couldn't stand them an longer.
HTH
I also asked to clean injectors, once they were out.
And now I have a small problem. Ever since the visit there, car takes 10% to15% more fuel then before the manifold fix. Before the visit I could drive 400 km from full tank before the light came on, now only 360-370 km, consistently.
I know that manifold would have nothing to do with fuel consumption, but, I also noticed that some of the intake air honeycomb insert was pressed and does not pass uniform air flow (about 5% of the surface, just guesstimate). Mechanic told me that injectors were cleaned with a pressurized canister, this is a one shot use so dirty solvent was not an issue. My idle is even, below 800 rpm, car did not lose power comparing to before the manifold was done and there is no problem with cold/hot start. Driving habits were not changed, fuel is the same from reputable stations, no other parts changed. There is no check engine light coming on, if fact, it never have since I own the car.
What messed up my fuel consumption? Could it be that small busted area in the intake?
It must be something else. Is it possible to mess up spark advance or fuel mixture, like in the old days, where you could change it all and how your car run was sort of an art? I thought this is all computer driven and to change anything you need to re-program the chip.
the air is cold. I've been researching and haven't come up with much.
Does anyone know if the vent control is vacuum driven or electronic?
i also have the clunking noise in the front, same response.
what a rip off!
Engine air filter 32.00.
Fuel filter 65.00.
PCV valve 15.00
Fuel injection service 116.00
Transmission service 120.00
Ball shaft seal leaking oil 500.00. Needs immediate attention.
The engine air filter is original and needs replaced. I will do myself. I think the filter is like 6 bucks.
The other recommendations are not supported by the owners manual I dont believe.
Can anyone comment on the 500.00 cost to replace ball shaft seal?
It seems that all these prices are about double what they should be.
Fuel injector and transmission service already? I would wait. I have over 50K miles on mine and my dealer said the transmission fluid was fine.
No idea what a ball shaft replace costs.
Never heard of a ball shaft seal leaking.
As to the transmission fluid service--the manual says 50,000 miles if in harsh conditions (high heat, taxi service, mountains). Otherwise, skip it till 150,000. At 67,000 miles (last July), I took my car in because it was shifting hard. They told me that I had failed my car by not changing the transmission fluid. When I confronted the mechanic with the manual, he told me he was right, I was wrong, and I should have known that cold (I'm in Minneapolis) is as harsh as the heat. The transmission shop I took it to later that week (which discovered that my torque converter was failing and ended up rebuilding the whole thing) told me there was no need to change the fluid. However, if you want to be safe, it might not be a bad idea. Also, the Dexcool says no need to change till 150,000 miles, but inside the lid of the reservoir it says after 5 years to change it. This does need to be done, because Dexcool is horrible stuff and can turn to a solid in your system and ruin everything. I switched to regular stuff this year, and it got me through a Minnesota winter and so far one of the hottest summers in decades.
Only my right turning signal is blinking fast (always), the light in the front is blinking fast but the one in rear is normal; i guess i'll change the light bulb first.
No clunking noise when in reverse. The dealer test drove it but told me it's normal but didn't say anything about ABS; i drove other abs cars before but i didn't hear any noise like that.
Good luck
if it's the socket, i sure will bring it back to the dealer as i hope that i will be covered under the extended warranty.
It was the flashing light bulb in the front passenger side that has stopped flashing, thus causing the rear one and the display panel to flash quickly.
The young entry level mechanic from south africa also fixed my rubbing/high pitch noise from the rear, it seems; that problem was looked at twice by 2 senior mechanic but couldn't stop the noise. It prove that attitude can be more useful than experience.
Never heard the grinding that would have told me the pads were gone, but the scored rotors were what clued me in. Now the car stops like new and the pedal is nice and high.
47+K miles and still going strong, though I've noticed a change in the exhaust tone....maybe I'm getting a leak or the muffler's shot? Sounds like my father's 97 3.1 Century, not the throaty 3.8 that I liked. Time for a custom set-up. Can I put duals on? I know I'll have to modify the rear bumper with another cut-out from a junked Trig, but I don't like patchwork bodywork.
Deke
I mean, do you want to be parked and run the car without the lights coming on or do you not want the auto feature to work at dusk.
For the first, apply the E-brake before starting and the lights will not come on.
If you want to disable the auto, then pull the headlamp relay. I believe it's behind the dash near the glove box
Also have been reading about a lot of postings on this forum and hope I have better luck than what I have read. I do appreciate the bulletin on the water leaking into the passenger floor pan, I have that problem in heavy rain. At least I have the ammo now to approach the repair shop.
Any major items I need to be informed of to keep this Intrique running for many years?
I also had a problem with my A/C not cooling very well, but with the car being 6 years old with 75K miles on it I knew it was probably a bit low on refrigerant. Had about one pound added to the system and now it is cold again. The mechanic said I have a small leak in the compressor, but if I can get away with just adding a pound every year or so I'll be happy with that rather than pay for a new compressor. I was also told by two different mechanics that both my front hubs are loose, but I haven't noticed any unusual tire wear so I'll let that issue go until it becomes a problem. I think the handling is a bit more sloppy now than it used to be, probably because of that. Hoping to keep my Intrigue for another 3 years or so, it's been a great car. Enjoy your Intrigue!
it seems all the new Sonata has it.
Where can it be purchased?
I fixed the water problem, it was simple enough. There is a sponge type casket on the cowling that covers the bottom of the windshield and the cabin air filtration intake. I had flattened out this foam to where it was no longer effective, so I replaced the foam type casket and also put the water diversion molding back on the metal above the cabin air filter. No more water leaks, so I felt lucky to escape any expense on that one.
I am still working on the rims, need to find a product that can remove all the black caked on dust/dirt.
I think the car should be a nice vehicle for years to come.
Been on my car 6 1/2 years and still look like new. I reccommend these, especially in hot climates because you can leave the windows open 2 -3 inches and not worry about water getting inside.
In fact, I got a set for the wife's Camry within a month of purchase.
Deke
this is also the first time i see this info posted.
Thank you so much for sharing the info, Deke
My guess is that the wind coming from the south, both days caused enough pressure on the window to cause this noise.
Anyone ever had this happen? Any ideas?