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Toyota Tacoma: Problems & Solutions
pocahontas
Member Posts: 802
Copy/pasted for Waxer:
#0 of 0: Toyota tunes (waxer) Thu 14 Dec '00
(03:17 PM)
17000 miles M/L on 2000 prerunner and rear end is
squealing upon deceleration. Anyone else? Vehicle
is street only driven and very well maintained.
#0 of 0: Toyota tunes (waxer) Thu 14 Dec '00
(03:17 PM)
17000 miles M/L on 2000 prerunner and rear end is
squealing upon deceleration. Anyone else? Vehicle
is street only driven and very well maintained.
0
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
If these problems occurred independently of your own actions, then I would say it sounds like poor workmanship on behalf of the dealer. Once fixed, it shouldn't happen again. (Should have never happened in the first place, is my opinion.)
Do you only let the dealership work on your truck? I do because I find a tendency among other mechanics to scoff at or dislike toyota or "foreign" trucks as they call them, and hence my service suffers because of this.
I would try a new dealership, if at all possible. If you don't live where this is possible, then contact Toyota directly. Eventually you'll talk to someone who will get the problem fixed for you and correctly.
Hope this helps.
I'm extremely frustrated with my dealership, and my Tacoma, beause of Toyota's inability to fix a very annoying problem FOUR different times. The service manager eventually told me to call Toyota, and take the issue to arbitration - what a joke that was - the arbitration company is on Toyota's payroll. Since Toyota didn't make any "attempts" to fix it (they can't - they don't know what's causing it) arbitration didn't apply. Full circle, and my truck STILL isn't right. Any thoughts, ideas, comments or suggestions are sincerely appreciated:
1998 Tacoma SR5 4x4 ex cab, auto tranny - the problem occurs after braking to a complete stop. When you remove your foot from the brake, a very solid 'thud' occurs, and it feels as if someone has bumped you from the rear. Both the drive selector (auto) and transfer case shifter visibly jump when this occurs. The harder you break, when coming to a stop, the worse the 'thud' is when you release the brake peddle. If I stop very gradually, the problem does not occur. (On two occaisions, I've had emergency situtions where I've virtually stood on the brake peddle to avoid a collision (I live in Northern VA - people drive crazy here!). In both cases, I came to a complete stop, took my foot off of the brake to begin to acellerate, and the truck acted as if it were in neutral. Within a second or two, the drive train re-engaged while the RPMs were still up, the tires chirped, and I found myself 3-5 feet forward. Not good at a busy intersection I have not been able to recreate the problem this to extreme, so this particuliar issue could essentially be ANOTHER, unrelated problem.)
I've tolerated this for 1.5 years, and I'm at my wits end. The only other option I know of, is to have a friend drive it to reproduce the problem and have a look see for myself from under the truck when he takes his foot off of the brake.
Anyone have any ideas or hear of a similar problem before? I'm pretty handy with a tool box and will try most anything at this point.
Thanks!
Ted
Another thought is axle wrap. Basically the geometry of the vehicle during a hard brake puts pressure on the drivetrain causing the thud. Once you release the brake, this releases the pressure through the axle/driveshafts. The harder you break, the more pressure built up in the suspension.
Personally, I think it's the latter because of how my Jeep does it.
Try manually downshifting to first during braking (that way you know it's in 1st before you come to a stop). If it still does it it's axle wrap and more or less a characteristic of driving a truck.
I've only got 3000 miles on the Jeep, and I have no intention of having the dealer look at it. Nothing else is strange about the handling/ride/drivability so it really doesn't bother me. Plus there isn't really much that can fix it that I'm aware of.
given expert advice on all Toyota 4x4 vehicles. Check your off road mags and local areas.
Downey was awesome in correcting minor annoyances on my '77 Landcruiser and have helped
my buddies who've owned 4x4 Toyotas...they are suspension experts...
Good luck
After driving in a deep snow, feel smell of burning clutch. H4 or L4 no difference.
Interesting, are anybody had the same experience
I own a 2000 Toyota Tacoma Xtracab PreRunner V6. I love this truck, I have about 9,000 miles on it with no problems. I wouldn't consider the axle wrap a problem, just annoying. I like the V6 power, ride height, and looks. Hope this helps.
Do the 2001s have this clunking problems too? Any option I should make sure I get on a Tacoma?
I live in Wisconsin so I have to deal with the snow and cold. I'm not sure if I'll take the truck off-road.
If I do this, it will be my first Toyota, first 4x4, and first pick up. Thanks you. - Jeffer2
(PLUS - I just got my wife the '01 325XI for Christmas - in short, the idea of more car payments makes me queezy right now!)
Sebring95 and 2000Pre - I think you've hit the nail on the head. I'd suspected the axle was the cause (inertia causes it to move forward and the brakes would then hold it in the forward position until the peddle was released.) I'll give the leaf spring addition a try - it sure can't hurt.
BMW - For those looking to by a Tacoma, this truck is absolutely incredible off road, but handles a little sloppy on the asphalt, IMHO.
Thanks again!
Wed
Edmunds.com did a review in which they hated the seats. I have the bucket seats, and after many 1000+ mile days in the driver's seat, I have no problem with them. The extended cab is a great thing to have - dry, safe, storage for stuff (bad for people though), and the seats will recline far enough that you can take a nap in the truck on a long drive. Definitely get the TRD package - handling is much firmer - important if you will be towing.
I live outside of Washington DC - 2001 SR5 V6 Extended cab w/ bucket seats, stick shift, TRD package and bedliner goes for about $20K.
That's it. It rocks on the highway, in the city, and, occasionally, off-road. Except for all this rocking, my toyota trucks have been trouble-free.
I changed the wheel stop adjusters on my 86.5 Nissan. It was easy to do. The only mistake I made was adjusting them when my tires had about 45,000 miles on them. When I got new tires the first time I hit a bump while turning sharp I got some rub. Had to adjust back out a little.
Follow the link to see Tacoma with pulling problem.
I've got a 99 Tacoma TRD with the same deceleration squeal. I've had mine serviced by the dealer it's entire life, and it still squeals. The squeal generally happens at highway speeds on relatively level road (no heavy accel or decel). If you goose the gas petal gently, you can aggravate the squeal a bit. I've been thinking it's a drive line issue, possibly a poorly lubed U-joint aggravated by the driveline angle. It's definitely not belt tension and it doesn't seem to matter how cold it is out. Truck loading changes the point at which the sqeual starts. For example, it won't start until I'm down to about 3/4 tank of gas.
What on the chassis did the dealer lube? So far they've only managed to rotate my credit card a few times. :O)
I thought we had looked everywhere, but it was a tough one to find until the bearing failed to the point where the pulley started to get out of line.
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"#390 of 660 - Personally i wouldn't worry about that nut and as for removing the shaft...well it's about a 5 min job with the right tools and oh yeah the ford shafts are removed in the same manner (4 bolts on each end)and the x-cabs have a center support bearing also (2 bolts holding it up...no biggy)"
I'd ask for a replacement.
Almost everyone I know that has been a Toyota loyalist is beginning to question the value, reliability, and customer satisfaction that Toyota seems to give today. For example, I bought my wife a 1999 Accord EX V-6 Coupe. Compared to the Solara, we paid almost $5,000 less for the Accord. The Accord has been an absolutely flawless vehicle (a great value and very well engineered). I've sinced bought both of my boys (both in college) Acura Integra GS-Rs. Again, I've been very pleased. If Honda/Acura get the nerve to jump into the truck market, I think I would jump ship. Toyota needs to wake up and pay attention. Loyal customers know when corners are being cut and we of course know that when problems occur like the ones I've had in my new truck, that means their beginning to get fat.
Nick D
Nickid20754@aol.com
and all perform the same (unchanged for 2001).
If it does take grease, does anyone know the specification?
If the chrome is rusting already, it's defective. Maybe wax will stop it, but are you going to consistantly wash and wax the inside and backside of the bumper to prevent rust.
"Normal" from a dealer just translates as "all these models have that defect, and we're not willing to fix it under warrenty"
Unless Toyota issues a special recall or TSB on it, I doubt there will be anything you can do about it.
By the way, Turtle Wax Chrome Polish will take the rust off and leave a good shine on it. Then wax it. If it gets to be a pain in the [non-permissible content removed], you might ant to consider an aftermarket rear bumper. Good luck with the truck, I'm sure overall it will be a great machine, just like mine