I have a 95 with same problem. There is a sensor in front of your car called the ---- pressure sensor, this sensor has to do with gas. Try changing this first. Your repair guy should know the sensor because I forgot the name. I change my pump the the problem still exist and I was told the change that sensor. Let me know if this solve the problem.
A few months ago, I had a faulty coil in my 2000 Maxima SE 5 speed(52,000 miles). Had it replaced at a dealership, but "service eng soon" light came on a few days afterwards. Took it back in and they couldn't find a problem (car was running great)and reset the light. Few days later, light came on again...took it back in. They recommended that I replace remaining 5 coils. Since they could not find any problems, and car was running great, I decided to live with the light on rather than spend $700 more. Had always averaged 23-24 in town, and 29-31 on the hwy for the 5 1/2 yrs I've owned the car. In a few weeks, car started acting up and it was a rear coil. Had remaining 5 coils replaced at that point and car still runs great. Here is the problem......my highway miles now are 23-24, and my city miles are 21-22. Took it into the dealer and they can't find anything wrong. Everything is within acceptable parameters. Any ideas why I lost 100 miles per tank full on the highway, and 10% of my city mileage? Again.....this problem started right after I had remaining 5 coils replaced. Anyone have any ideas? Thx!! Kelly
PCV valve is located on the back valve cover. Its a real b**ch to get at with all the hoses and the intake mainfold on top of it. Also its a screw on PCV valve, not the regular pull out, push back in. I just bought a replacement PCV valve but haven't replaced it as yet.
AC DOES NOT BLOW COLD :mad: I HAVE A 1995 NISSAN MAXIMA AND THE AC BLOWS HOT AIR ONLY I HAVE REPLACE THE PART THAT IS ATTACHED TO THE EVAPORATOR IN THE GLOVE BOX
">I have a 93 Nissan Maxima. The car surges and the RPM's fluctuate all the way to 0. The car does not want to go anywhere. After giving it alot of gas it will. The dealer told us to change the ECM. We did that and the problem still exists. Anyone know what to do here?
you need someone to perform a leak test. you may have a leak somewhere in the system and it's becomming de-pressurized. otherwise, maybe the clutch on the compressor isn't kicking in.
got it fixed today. The dealer, as I suspected, honored the warranty on the cat but also insisted on replacing O2 sensors. He started out with 2 O2 sensors and when he figured that I know a bit about them agreed on replacing just one. He showed a service bulletin where a front Bank 1 O2 sesnsor is mentioned when you get code P0420. That code is for the rear cat but I got code P0430, which is the fron Bank 2 pre-cat. It was imposssible to prove or even get the dealer to provide proof that O2 was defective. At the end I kind of understood that there is no way I could just get the cat replaced under warranty, I have to pay something, so I bargained to pay for front Bank 2 (blue) oxygen sensor, part only and get the cat replaced for free. Can you believe that? At the end, he didn't even care what sensor he would replace for me and I knew that I would pay more at a private shop. So my cost was $175 plus tax for front Bank 2 sensor and the pre-cat. Whoever is reading this - please, please, save yourself some money and don't go to dealers unless your repair is completely covered under warranty. And if anyone is interested, i have a perfectly fine working front bank 2 heated O2 sensor for 2K Maxima (blue)
same here, it will never go away. It's not that bad, you can't expect more from a 6 year old car. Could be bearings, in general Maxima stock breaks are no good, you gotta live with it
Hi, I got an OBD2 reader. I can read real time voltages on all 4 O2 sesnors on my 2K Maxima. I can also get fuel trim (rich or lean %). Even though I have an underatannding on how O2 sesnors work, I don't know what the voltages should be. Can someone advise what the readings should be and what is the problem if readings are out of range? If you know of an online article on this then I would take a link too. Thanks
stop by Autozone to get your computer scanned for free. They will tell you what the error code was. Then look for that code online and that should point you in the right direction or post the ocde here. Service Engine Soon usually indicates an issue with emissions, it has nothing to do with 30K service.
I have a 1999 Nissn Maxima and the AC is not working properly. When I turn the AC on, only blows air to the windshield and feet; there's no air comming on the face regarless of what buttons I push for the AC. If I push the button to get air on the face, all I get is air to the windshield and feet; ...and the same for the rest of the buttons... Thank you for any tips!
Hello I have a 2000 Nissan Maxima SE. Twice my wife has said the car's battery light stayed on after starting the car. She turned off the ignition switch, however when she restarted the car, the light remained on. I start the car and the light is off. The alternator is producing 14 VDC. With air, radio, headlights on-car idling- the voltage reads 12.9 vdc. The only time the car has had this problem is first start of the day. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
I get a P0138 code, Bank 1, Sensor 2. Which oxygen sensor is this? They seem to be identified by color code on the wire leading to the sensor. (red, blue etc)
Back this summer, after I started the car, the battery light stayed on along with the parking brake light and seat belt annunciator: parking brake was off and seat belts were fastened. I don't really think it is an alternator problem, but an indication problem behind the dash. It is really an infrequent issue. As all problems go, they start out small and grow from there. I will check the battery voltage.
Same here. No corrosion and the battery terminals are tight. If a low voltage battery was the problem, you would think the battery light would come on more often. My light came on twice in 6 weeks. The problem happens with my wife__ and you know women-- they start the car with the headlights on, radio on and the A/C at max cold. No load shed!! Besides low voltage would cause the starter to drag. I let the car sit over the weekend and it started great. The battery light was out before the engine completely started. Who knows what tomorrow will be??
no, I went with one of those generic OBD2 adapters for your laptop or Palm. They work great with good software and only cost $95. The adapter has ELM327 chip and supposedly supports all OBD2 modes, you just need to get the right software. The problem though is to make sense of all the readings, need the factory manual at the very least...
It would be very nice to get a separate forum started on OBD2 issues. All specific error code questions could go in there.
yes I have that, still need to dig in to find the right O2 voltages and need a software to actually plot O2 readings over time. Found something in Engine Control section under General Specifications. Apparently the O2 voltage has to go up and down all the time as the computer adjusts from rich to lean gas mixture conditions. The low voltage should be between 0 and 0.3 and high between 0.6 and 1. As long as those adjustments are within parameters and constant then your O2 is OK... But you have to have no load and run the engine at 2500 rpm...
Anyone ever did an automatic transmission flush? I saw this one being offered by a local dealer for like $80. Is this any good at all? I remember with older cars they didn't even recommend changing fluid too often and Nissan doesn't even list transmission fluid change as part of any scheduled service...
I've had a 95SE since new and fortunately it has been an exceptionally troublefree car. So far, nothing has gone wrong that I couldn't easily or reasonably fix. Car was made in Japan - maybe that makes a difference?
Scanning through the posts in this forum, I see that the ignition coils are a big repeat item. Hasn't happened to my car yet, but it makes me nervous...
What I haven't seen is anyone's assessment of what fails in the coils. Is it the insulation or does the part fail electrically? My point, as always, is - can they be repaired without replacing?
this issue is common for 2000-2002 Maximas and is accomponied by error code P1320. Nissan Service Bulletin suggests to replace all 6 coils when you get this code unless you also get a misfire code for a specific cylinder as well. If you don't get a specific cylinder misfire code then no, there is no good way to determine which coil is bad, I tried and they all had same resistance. One way is to take out one spark plug at a time, connect it to its coil and crank the engine and observe the spark. I didn't want to do that though. I found these coils at $45 each on eBay, bought them and replaced myself.
Thanks for the answer, but it doesn't address the original question which was: when the coils break down, what fails? Is it an insulation failure or an electrical failure - and can it possibly be repaired?
Since I have a 95 SE, it would seem that I don't face much risk of it. Is that right?
you definitely don't have the known issue we discussed here but a I held a coil in my hand and I don't think that you can repair a bad one in home or auto shop setting, if it's bad then it needs to be replaced. The only thing you should try to do is determine which one is bad. As I mentioned, I wasn't able to do it on my 2K Max because the detonation was intermittent. If you get constant misfires and you determine that it's one of the coils then you can try replacing them one at a time and see which one eliminates misfires.
I have a 95 Nissan Maxima with 190K miles on it. I replaced all fuel injectors, spark plugs, battery, fuel filter X2, fuel pump, fuel regulator, alternator, starter X2, knock sensor, coolant sensor and will be replacing the oxygen sensor. I'm hoping to fix the cold starting problem. Once it starts the car runs beautifully. It started with running problems then after the new fuel injectors it ran fine. Then it wouldn't start at all and after replacing the battery and starter it started ok. Then it would not start right away which is where I'm now. I had my mechanic replace the fuel pump, fuel regulator, knock sensor, fuel regulator and fuel filter and yet it doesn't start on the first turn. Hopefully the air sensor might fix this for good. Please let me know if anyone has any ideas.
I have a 2001 Maxima GXE, 72K miles, O2 sensor changed, new battery last year. It died on me while I was driving this morning, with only AC on. Then it occurs to me that about 3 weeks ago, both brake and battery lights came on and off one day. And it was ok since then until today. I went to AutoZone to test the battery and alternator. They said both are ok. Although the alternator is marginal, as it was putting out 12.65V, where the threshold is 12.4V. It sounds like about $400 if replacing the alternator. Any suggestion? Thanks.
hello i`m new here. i just brought a 93 nissan maxima . i have several problems. the latest and the most important one : doesnt start. i dont now why. yesterday he work fine.. i parked the car after 1 min i try to start and failed, after 15 minutes i tried again and.. it works. now this morning.. again doesent start and i try several times.i dont think is the batery.also in my first day ( i have the car from 6 days)when i try to start the car the alarm went on ( i just have one key).i pull of a red 10A thing and now is quiet. if i put back the 10A thing alarm is starting..
I have a 95 with somewhat the same problem and the dealer said it can be my computer that is bad if it continue after I change my relay. Let your mechanic change your relay that should do it, if not then it is your computer, mines solve the problem.
this isn't easy to diagnose on the forum, you need to see a good mechanic. But I can comment on the $400 alternator price. Find a shop, which rebuilds alternators and starters and have them change the alternator for you. Should run you $150 or $200 max.
12.65V is a bit low, you want your alternator to be at around 14V.
hey, i just got a 91 max to take up to school but the current alram is Ancient and the remote wont work ( its a prestige alarm with a single button remote) and my master key wont open the doors for some reason... i dont want to spend the money and get a brand new alarm system, but as of now i cant even lock the car... my question is, is there any chance i can get just a Keyless entry system with remotes and take out the current alarm? i dont really dont want the alarm to conk out and not be able to start the car.
I have a 97 Maxima GLE. I have had it for about 4 years and it has 132k miles on it. Never had any major problems except the cam sensor died on me twice.
Well, recently the car began to struggle starting. Sounded very sluggish, and it turned over slower, and slower, then wouldn't start. I figure either the battery or starter died. I took it in to a mechanic and as it turns out, the starter needed to be replaced, battery was still good.
I start the car up, it runs fine. The next few times I start it up, its turning over, but is struggling to start. I can feintly smell gasoline, and the car eventually starts. Once it starts going, it runs fine. Sometimes, it won't start, I need to give it a rest, and then try again after a few minutes.
I took it back the mechanic, he replaced the spark plugs and occassionally, the car would start just fine but still struggling other times. He thought there was an electrical problem, specifically with the fuel injectors, but couldn't pinpoint it. Diagnostic came back that everything was okay. I noticed the check engine light doesn't come on anymore when I turn the car on prior to starting it.
I've gon through 2 batteries..and 1 alternator..starting to wonder if its the starter..
Im not totally sure, when I attempt to start the car, I get nothing at all..no noise or anything..the car seems like it has NO power whatsoever..radio..windows..locks..nothing
it seems like something is draining the battery, I got a new one yesterday, and the car started up fine, after I turn the car off, the radiator fans keep going, and thats the same thing that has happened everytime, so I always end up knowing it wont start after those fans stop.
2002 MAX AND IT SEEMS TO BE BURNING OIL LIKE CRAZY. JUST CHANGED OIL 1,000 MILE AGO AND THE DIPSTICK IS DRY! PLUS UPON START UP GET A WEIRD NOISE. NOT THE STARTER. ANY IDEAS?
with these older alrams, there is usually a button below the steering wheel and when you turn the key to ON and push that button then it disables the alarm.
Comments
If I push the button to get air on the face, all I get is air to the windshield and feet; ...and the same for the rest of the buttons...
Thank you for any tips!
I start the car and the light is off. The alternator is producing 14 VDC. With air, radio, headlights on-car idling- the voltage reads 12.9 vdc.
The only time the car has had this problem is first start of the day. Any suggestions would be appreciated!
Had no problems until I brought car in for detailing and some paint work, they unhooked the battery during the work.
It would be very nice to get a separate forum started on OBD2 issues. All specific error code questions could go in there.
Scanning through the posts in this forum, I see that the ignition coils are a big repeat item. Hasn't happened to my car yet, but it makes me nervous...
What I haven't seen is anyone's assessment of what fails in the coils. Is it the insulation or does the part fail electrically? My point, as always, is - can they be repaired without replacing?
Would appreciate some discussion on this.
Since I have a 95 SE, it would seem that I don't face much risk of it. Is that right?
Thanks.
Eric
pls help
p.s sorry for my english
http://replacement.autopartswarehouse.com/parts/autopartswarehouse/quote.jsp?yea- r=1995&product=P2020-131380&application=000639967&part=Relay&dp=false
12.65V is a bit low, you want your alternator to be at around 14V.
Well, recently the car began to struggle starting. Sounded very sluggish, and it turned over slower, and slower, then wouldn't start. I figure either the battery or starter died. I took it in to a mechanic and as it turns out, the starter needed to be replaced, battery was still good.
I start the car up, it runs fine. The next few times I start it up, its turning over, but is struggling to start. I can feintly smell gasoline, and the car eventually starts. Once it starts going, it runs fine. Sometimes, it won't start, I need to give it a rest, and then try again after a few minutes.
I took it back the mechanic, he replaced the spark plugs and occassionally, the car would start just fine but still struggling other times. He thought there was an electrical problem, specifically with the fuel injectors, but couldn't pinpoint it. Diagnostic came back that everything was okay. I noticed the check engine light doesn't come on anymore when I turn the car on prior to starting it.
Thanks for reading. Any suggestions?
Im not totally sure, when I attempt to start the car, I get nothing at all..no noise or anything..the car seems like it has NO power whatsoever..radio..windows..locks..nothing
it seems like something is draining the battery, I got a new one yesterday, and the car started up fine, after I turn the car off, the radiator fans keep going, and thats the same thing that has happened everytime, so I always end up knowing it wont start after those fans stop.