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Comments
Just a reminder Dean, many of the crossbars were made with the RH or LH reversed! GM actually sent out instructions on the correct alignment and placement of the bars to reduce noise. For the record they should have the thin lower side facing the FRONT of the vehicle. (You can also look at the tie-down 'loop'). For reduction in noise the back bar should be close or at the farthest back location and the front bar just about at the front of the 'vent' glass of the rear doors....this is the position for the short not XL/EXT versions.
Hope this helps,
Ray
IF you are in the first 12 mo & 12000 miles, you can buy the new coverage that starts at delivery date and mileage. After that time and mileage you can purchase coverage that start when you purchase the coverage. Just looked at my price quote and there is a list for USED 0-24 mo and 0-24000 miles and another list for 24-36 and 24000-36000 that looks to be a little higher. So, you might not save money by waiting.
Black Pontic Cadillac GMoutlet. check on the web at gmoutlet dot com. I filled out a request and got an e-mail from Allen Black with a pointer to the price list.
I purchased a Chrysler extended warranty from a dealer in Iowa on the 2000 Jeep Grand Cherokee we just traded. Got a discount similar to what the GM one would be. Unless you are a resident of the state (Penn in this case) where you purchase, you pay NO sales tax, so I would have actually saved over $500 by buying from these folks.
Bill
I've noticed that it's taking a lot longer for my 03 TB to start blowing cold air. Last year it seems like it blew cold air after just a few seconds.
Now when I turn the A/C on, it doesn't blow out of the vents it is showing on the display (have an LTZ). If it shows it coming out the top vent, it may be coming out on the floor only, cycling the modes does nothing, it's still off. I hit off and turn it off completely, then back on, and it will work right. But still get the warm air.
And the air is stinky.
What's the deal? Just curious if anyone knows before I take it in Monday.
Really bums me that it takes 11 minutes for the A/C to be blowing air that's cold (~40 degrees).
http://www.gmoutlet.com/gmppfaq.html
Adamjeeps was correct, read below.
My 1st quote fell under (A) but it seems it is better to wait, see (B)
WHEN WILL THE PLAN EXPIRE?
A.) Brand New Vehicles "INCLUDING" vehicles less than 12 months old "AND" 12,000 miles on odometer. All plans expire when the odometer reaches the miles designated in the plan or when the months designated in the plan is reached. The months are the total months the car has been in service.
Example: A vehicle purchased new on Jan. 1, 2004. You purchase a 72 months 75,000 mile plan. The plan will expire Jan. 1, 2010 or when the odometer reaches 75,000 miles regardless of when the plan is purchased.
B.) For Vehicles over 12 months "OR" over 12,000 miles on odometer. The plan length and miles starts at the date of the GMPP purchase and at the odometer reading at time of purchase.
Example: On Jan. 1, 2004 you purchase a GMPP on your two year old vehicle with 23,507 miles on the odometer. You purchase a 24 month / 36,000 mile GMPP Major Guard. Your GMPP plan would expire on Jan 1, 2006 or 59,507 miles.
I think the computer is trying to brake, retard spark, or the lock up torque converter is unlocking.
Before checking with my dealer, I was wondering if anyone here has similar experiences or suggestions.
I have heard things like a software upgrade might fix this or this might be normal for certain GM vehicles.
Thanks in advance.
When I was looking for an Envoy, I looked at an one that had the 1SE Option package, therefore should have the Bose System, but the head unit in the dash did not say Bose on it. It appeared to have the Bose speakers in the door, but did not sound quite like the Bose system, pretty good, but maybe 85% there. Slightly short on the bass and highs. I was tuned into the Bose, since my last vehicle had the Bose. I purchased a very similar vehicle that definitely had the Bose system.
Keep us posted on the Cruise surge.
Thanks..
We pulled our 4000# camper again this weekend and, once again, experienced the delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shift after about 20 miles of driving.
When this happens the engine just screms along at 4000-5000 rpm in first gear even as I lightly lift the gas to try to get it to upshift. Instead of upshifting, it just slows down but remains in 1st gear. So I let off the gas a little more and it finally upshifts. Same routine for the 2-3 shift. This all happens on level ground with no wind, and only after about 15-20 miles. If I don't release the gas enough for a 5mph slowdown, it will drive for miles in 1st (or 2nd) gear. For the first 15-20 miles, it runs great and shift normally.
I asked the dealer to look into this last summer, but no resolution.
Anyone here have the same towing problem?
Thanks,
Dean
Also, as you're buying this used, the original owner bore the brunt of the depreciation already.
It's not likely to be a problem with the torque convertor.
When the torque convertor is disengaged, the fluid coupling will absorb some of the drivetrain vibrations and mask the problem. When it is engaged, the vibrations are more pronounced because the engine and drivetrain become hard-connected. So, the torque convertor is merely the messenger in your case.
- WPK
As it turns out, it was simply the gas cap being too loose.
I don't understand why cars can't display error messages, like "check gas cap." Seems like that would be more useful than the dreaded "Ice possible" message.
Not fully understanding the anatomy and physiology of torque converters, I'll try to respond (engineers, help me out here):
I think the the torque converter touches the drive shaft at all times, unless disengaged (i.e. when the brake is applied). Therefore, if the vibration was coming from the torque converter, the vibration would occur at all times, not just at 1500 rpm. I suspect the TC played a role in transferring the vibration to the gas pedal and the rest of the car (steering wheel, console, doors, rear-view mirror when it was really bad). It would follow then, that if the vibration were coming from the drive shaft only at 1500 rpm, when the TC was disengaged, the vibration in the car would stop, which in my case, it did. So, we went after the drive shaft as the culprit. I cannot stress enough to find a good drive shaft shop that takes pride in their work and doesn't mind you looking over their shoulder to be sure it's done right - to the specs I gave you - evidently GM has a different standard for 'acceptable' runout and balance. If you're anywhere near Washington DC I can give you the shop I went to. It has made all the difference in the world in my driving enjoyment.
Here's an informative site on torque converters in case you're interested:
http://auto.howstuffworks.com/torque-converter1.htm
I have experienced some delayed 1-2 and 2-3 shifting, but not while towing. For me it's more when I start up and drive right away without waiting for the car to sit for a couple minutes before I start driving. I have had it to the dealer once before for klunky shifting, they did a software update, but it still does it. Hasn't been too much of a problem, as long as it doesn't get worse. Once I get going it stops doing it.
P.S. - I towed a pop-up camper last weekend loaded down with bikes (prob 2500#) didn't have any shifting problems, but seemed to have a good bit of power loss going on the uphill over bridges after about 100 miles.
cameokid...can you provide me the name of the dealer and the service manager's name or work order number so that my dealer can contact someone up there to discuss the fix.
Thanks,
Bertman
www.paintscratch.com
If you have breached the primer, you may need to order a primer pen, too. There is a lot of info and instructions on their website, so read all that before you order, and you'll know what supplies you'll need. You have to prepare the site well first. They recommend using their solvent wax remover and extra-fine sandpapers if needed. You may want a little bottle of their acrylic paint thinner to clean your paint pens or any brushes, etc; you can't use regular paint thinner. The bumper is different from the rest of the car in that it requires flexible materials if it's bigger than a paint pen repair, so you have to tell them it is for bumper. You will need to know your paint color code of course. They are also good about answering specific questions. Good luck!
Steve, Host
I've got a 2001 Jeep GC with 37,300 mi. I'm looking for the most yrs miles I can get. I also am getting a quote from the Black Pontiac Dealer.
Thanks
No, it's not and it's not going to become one either! :-)
tidester, host
Just checked under their get a quote and there is an option for over 36/36000 ($300 surcharge), over 24/24000 is a $200 surcharge and over 12/12000 is a $100 surcharge over their sale price which looks to be maybe 75% of list.
Bill
At least I killed my TV so I don't have to listen to the bombardment of ads (and I don't want to come here for my political news or shots at the opposition).
Let's stick to the Triplets, please - if this isn't entertaining enough, go take advantage of the gas hike.
Steve, Host
No jabs intended
tidester, host
tidester, host