That's most likely the REM (Rear End Module) with which the main computer communicates to handle the stuff in the back of the vehicle. I think whoever told you that is blowing smoke....if that were the case you would need to have it reprogrammed every time the battery was changed or disconnected. As far as I know the only time the REM needs programming is when it needs to be changed out itself...you need to let the new one know what options are installed on your specific vehicle.
Stanny, et al. Now that you mention it, I think I will get that transmission fluid flushed completely, and soon. Theres a huge gap in recommending once every 30,000 miles and once every 100,000 miles. Think I'll trust Mark on this item. Who better to know that the guy who engineered the transmission??
chartrand: Now you tell me! (fuel filter). Actually, under normal situations, I would have done this myself, or at least checked my Service CD to see how to do it. In general, Im finding the LS VERY easy to perform maintenance on. (spark plug replacement excepted). I've changed fuel filters before on my old BMW, but it was a hassle. Had to first remove the fuel pump fuse, then crank the car and let the engine slowly starve itself of fuel, while the engine shook like all be damned. (This was the recommended way to relieve the tremendous amounts of fuel pressure frm the system. No, removing the gas cap didnt work. If you didnt to it this way, the second you loosened up one of the "banjo" bolts that held the fuel lines to the fuel filter, you would get hit with a wild and steady spray of what seemed like a half-quart of fuel). This was after you crawled under the middle of the car to even get to the filter. I was thinking that replacement of the fuel filter on the LS would be a similiar hassle, but obviously I was wrong. Live and learn.
Leadfoot4-Thanks for the tip. Im going to try the same Rockville bodyshop that I used last year. They were able to get to a serious crease-ding that was so far forward in my passenger side door, that Dentworks wouldnt touch it. Cost me $200, but they got it with no painting required. I HATE dings with a passion.
Final question: Can someone explain whats all involved when the dealer has to reprogram this processor? Apparantly it isnt as simple as pluggin something in and clicking "start". What does this processor in the trunk do? Is it the PCM?
I think SAAB or some other european mfr was going to have a 42 volt system out this year (or next at the latest). I think it will be phased in slowly across the mfrs and products. I can't for the life of me figure out how they settled on 42 volts, though. Biggest advantage (other than the aforementioned superchargers and simply having enough juice to run all the latest gadgets) is in powering the big electric assist motors in the new hybrid vehicles. I think there would be a step down to 12 volts so the current 12 volt accessories would still work.
Hi guys, I'm new to this board. I am a current continental owner, who has just test driven a 2002 LS premium. I found 2 annoying things. Upon acceleration to access the highway ramp, there was a terrible hesitation and a general slugishness of the automatic transmission. Secondly, there seemed to be a rapid tapping sound coming either from the engine or the front tires. Also, there were 2 identical cars there, one with Brookstone and one with Michelin tires. Which tires would you folks recommend. Incidently, the salesman said the car was riding and shifting rough because it hadn't been prepped yet, meaning programmed, I assumed. Is there any validity to what he said? Thanx for any insight
Here's a good article. It's really a 36 volt battery but it operates at 42 volts, just like the 12 volt battery today operates at 14 volts while the vehicle is running and the alternator is charging.
Was it a V8 or V6? It certainly wasn't a "prep" problem - there's nothing to prep as far as the engine and tranny goes. The tranny does "learn" shift pressures over time so that each shift is as precise as possible but that really shouldn't be a problem on a new vehicle. That plus the tapping noise sounds like that vehicle had a problem. Try another one for comparison.
Brookstone tires? Do they come with heat and massage built in? I'm sure you meant Bridgestone Turanzas. I prefer the Michelins but I don't think the Bridgestones are bad. They were the OEM tire in between the Firestones and the now standard Michelins. Either should be ok but given a choice I would get the Michelins (personal choice).
Drive another car. Drive several. That way you can rule out a problem with one particular vehicle.
The 42 volt selection actually has logic to it. Our present cars are really not 12V but 13.8V nominal which rounded off is 14 V. 42 V is 3 x 14 V. 28V cars were considered (2 x 14V), but it was decided that 28V systems would not have a long enough life. When 42V cars arrive they will still have 14V systems in them so they will actually be combination 14/42 volt cars thus allowing existing 14 accessories to still be used.
One if the biggest problems with the present 14V systems is the size and weight of the wires required to have acceptable voltage drop. With 48V you need 1/9 the copper in a wire saving a lot of weight and space (if anyone is intersted I'll post the math explaining why its 1/9 the copper not 1/3).
Here's a great question for one of the Ford people. How many lb. of wire is in a LS?
I'm running from memory now so I may make a mistake or two but the gist is correct. The way the LS works in terms of getting a result when you "push a switch", etc is quite different than what you are probably used to. In the olde days, for example, when you pushed on the brake there was a mechanical switch that was connected to the pedal such that the contacts would close and current would be supplied via a wire directly connected to the brake lights. In the LS when you push the brake pedal, a switch signals the FEM (Front End Module) via wire that the brake pedal has been pushed. The FEM then sends a message addressed to the main computer over the corporate network that the brake lights need turning on. The Main computer then sends a message to the REM (Rear End Module) to illuminate the brake light. The REM decodes the request and then via solid state relay send the current to the rear brake lights via wire. All this happens so fast it's really no different that the olde way but you can see that this is a sophisticated system and troubleshooting "ain't like it used to be". This method of operation saves a lot of copper wire (thus weight) but it significantly increases complexity. If memory serves you can have up to 7 different modules connected to the corporate network...there is even one in the driver's door. This in fact how you get such features as the interior lights "dimming out" rather than the more pedestrian off/on mode of operation. This was pretty high level but I hope it helps a bit.
I forgot to answer the reprogramming part of yor question. The various modules and computers start off as identical units within a type. Each has a PROM of sorts that can be programmed via the main computer or if removed from the vehicle through the dealer's service bay tools.I believe they contain the VIN and what options the vehicle has - sunroof, heated seats, fancy mirror, etc - you woudn't want strange glitches to occur by some module getting confused by noise and thinking it had just received a command to open the sunroof when one wasn't installed...can't have system crashes/hangs while you're driving down the road at 70 mph. A downside of this for the do-it-yourselfers is you just can't go buy a new module and install it even if it is the direct cause of a failure...you need to let the dealer get his pound of flesh by having him program it for you (unless you have access to an NGS scanner).
Thanx a TON for the detailed explanation. Even if its not 100% accurate, I get the general idea. Also makes me think twice next time I go probing and hacking into wires to install DVD players and TV monitors in the car. :-)
TO the poster who replied about a loud roaring sound from your rear end. (Ok, that one is TOO easy to go after). Seriously, I would guess a bad wheel bearing. Those things can make a car sound like a truck on the highway. A bad, out of round tire can also make the sound, but usually its a wheel bearing. Not sure if you can replace it yourself, as they usually are pressed in these days.
Thanks for the link, that's the wheels I saw, only they were the matte not chrome finish. I'm not sure the squarish look matches the shape of the LS as well as the older wheels, at least to me.
I am planning to buy a LS Premium V8. What kind of gas mileage should I expect at 70 mph on the Interstate? Also, what are people actually paying for the V8 LS Premium
thanx akirby for the info on the LS....and thanx for being gracious about the faux pas on the tires. I'll try one of the other cars on the lot....the one with the Michelins.
No problem. Just don't say "break pedal" (unless your BRAKE pedal is actually broken). For some reason that one just sets me off.
One note - if you do notice slow shifting you can accelerate the learning curve by repeating the offending shift 3 or 4 times about 20 seconds apart. Same speed and throttle pattern. That will allow the computer to select the optimal pressure for that particular shift. Shouldn't need to do it but it's easy enough to try. At least it will tell you if it's an ongoing problem or not.
Lincoln is offering some pretty good financing deals right now. CHeck carefully on Edmunds, they should give you good info. Id be very surprised if you had to pay more than $500 TOPS over invoice these days for an LS. Depending on your locale, you might be able to grab a new one for invoice.
I concur w/jhoffman. 26-27 on the interstate, 23-24 commuting, mostly two-lane roads with some stop signs, passing, etc. Don't be concerned if you only see 20-21 when the engine is new. Give it 3-4k miles.
When I was commuting 22 miles per day each way to work in 90% highway, and 10% city, I was getting 20-21 mpg. (using reformulated/skunked gas - 91 Octane Chevron exclusively)
Currently, I get 24 mpg on prolonged highway cruising at 75-80 mph (reformulated gas). When using non-reformulated gas, I have gotten as high as 27 mpg for a whole tank. The computer is fairly acurate, differing from hand calculations by at most 0.5 mpg for a whole tankful (I always reset the fuel computer at each fill-up).
Lately, my driving keeps me very close to home with drives often less than 2 miles in duration, and very few opportunities to get out on the highway. My mileage has greatly suffered . . . often resulting in mileage as low as 16 mpg for a full tank. This is not the most economical "runabout" car I've ever owned, but it's still loads of FUN!!!!!
That was my point exactly. There are lots of other RWD applications of the engine, although not Intech. I was just saying that adapting the FWD version for RWD would present major problems.
Now if you wanted to put that engine in a Sable....hmmm. What a sleeper that would make:)
I believe they are still in the LS. I believe (from memory) the 2001 Cosumers said no pretensioners as well. I asked at Mania II and was told there were front pretensioners. Can anyone confirm this?
Lincoln is foolish. They spend all the money to put in a safety feature like seatbelt pretensioners and it is not mentioned anywhere in their new car brochure or advertising. A feature like that cannot sell a car if nobody knows it is there.
"[A] safety feature like seatbelt pretensioners and it is not mentioned anywhere in their new car brochure or advertising. A feature like that cannot sell a car if nobody knows it is there."
I wonder how many people have them as one of their top 10 requirements for a new car? I know that is the first thing I ask the salesman! I'll bet their true importance to the majority of consumers ranks right up there with DRLs. Yep, having those were the two main reasons I bought my LS.
August 30th my right rear window crashed and a new regulator was put in. Last night we were 60 miles from home and after the right back door was close the window slid down & stayed down. The only problem this time was the temperature was in the teens. Bun warmers & a great heater made it bearable although it was noisy. I can accept this happening one time but twice. I am pretty angry this morning & maybe it didnt help when my wife said consider an Audi next time. She knows I love to buy american. Oh well enough venting. Hope everyone has a great weekend.
I know that when I pirchased my LS, I looked at crash safety and safety features in every vehicle I looked at. I actually check the seat belt pretensioners were on the car before I bought it. I am not saying that it would be a show stopper if they were not there, but why not list it under the safety features in the brochure if you went to the effort to include them. Consumer Reports has comparison charts listing which vehicle have which safety features. It shows the LS as not having pretensioners. I am sure that when someone is comparing 2 vehicles and they can't decide, features like this can sway them one way or another.
Solving rotor warp is easy. It is caused by uneven tightening of the lug nuts. If one lug nut is tighter than the other and the brakes heat up the rotors tend to warp. The simple way to solve this is to stop using an impact wrench to tighten the lugh nuts and tighten them to the manufacturer specifications by hand. It is then best to loosten and tighten each lug nut 1 by 1 to ensure the proper torque (the torque on the first lug nut might change by the tightening of the others). I had a vehicle in which I turned the rotors twice in 40,000 miles. The 3rd time they warped, I had to replace the rotors (still on the original brake pads). I then started this procedure with the new rotors. No warpage in 70,000 miles.
The bright side is that the new, latest, greatest design is available. The one you had installed last August was the with the plastic "D" guide. That was the part that was failing (aren't subs grand ). The new ones have a metal "D" piece. Mine failed right before Mania III (in the UP position ) and was replaced with the latest regulator assembly. With the new regulator, you shouldn't have this problem again.
Anyone notice the new BMW M-3 V-8 race ads? The one where they start off with trumpeting their 2001 victories then say that they aren't racing this year because the rules were changed. Funny how they don't mention that it wasn't so much that the rules were changed (which stated that since it was a production series, manufacturers were expected to sell the cars in a certain quantity on the street) as that the rules are being enforced, thanks in no small part to the overwhelming domination of the car in the series it competed in. Losing to Porsche didn't sit too well with the B-boys.
Of course now they are saying they are going to sell the car. IIRC, the price is going to be around $200,000?
Geez, BMW, why not just admit that you took advantage of a gray area in the rule book and leave it at that?
Good points by keyrow & Scott. As a single guy and veteran of the hairy-chested, rainwater-in-the-ear school of British roadster driving, I'll admit that safety features won't sell me a car. But it's important to a lot of people, and the LS's features should be reported accurately. And it's a good feeling to drive one of the safest cars ever built. Remember the picture someone posted about a year ago of their LS after a major front-end impact? The hood & fenders were crushed to about half their normal length, yet the windshield was intact, both front doors opened, and the driver & front seat passenger walked away with minor abrasions from the airbags. I drive 30k miles a year, most of it at high speed. I may not have chosen the LS for it's safety, but I'm glad they built it that way.
There's a financial component as well. The increase in my insurance premium was very small when I stepped up from a '95 Subaru Legacy LSi to the '00 LS. According to my agent, this is due to the safety features built into the LS.
I think it finally hit me. 2000 LS purchased in November 1999. I asked the dealer to check the pass side rear regulator last week because I thought it heard it make an odd thunk or two on occassion, when going up. Invoice said they "lubed and adjusted pass side regulator". 2 hours ago I put up the drivers side rear window and heard a distinct "pop" from that side. Window did go all the way up, so I dared not touch it. Rushed over to the Lincoln dealer as Im at 49,890 miles, and plan to drive at least 200 between today (Sunday) and tomorrow! Theyve ordered a drivers side regulator for me, but the Service Advisor states that they wont replace the pass side because Lincoln requires them to return the defective part in order to receive any sort of credit. I told him I could have sworn the TSB said specifically to replace both, even if only one fails. He said no. Time for me to check www.llsoc.com for the full TSB.
On a related note, can I safely remove the drivers side rear door panel to look and see if the regulator did fail without worrying about the window falling down?
I know this subject was covered hundreds of post ago, but I'm just now catching up on my reading. Has anyone considered the possibility that the LS Lincoln repurchased due to repeated problems (again, thanks to Brian for helping resolve that issue) might have ended up painted Vibrant Red and on display at Mania 3? I always wondered what a car maker would do with a repurchased car. Maybe this is one example.
Chrysler and GM got caught doing this back in the 70's and paid a huge fine. GM was turning back the speedometers of slightly used police vehicles and they were found out by the maintenace folks for the PD.
I really do not think Lincoln would ever do such a thing.
A couple of years ago I went to a dealer that sold Manufacturer "buy backs". These cars were very cheap I didn't understand why so I took the VIN # off a Suburban and had someone at the factory read me the warranty repair history. After hearing the history the car was clearly a lemon . I don't know if the factories sell the lemons, but I'm pretty sure they don't crush 'em.
Ronniepooh - Removing the rear door panels is a snap. Go the LLSOC web site and follow the instructions for speaker replacement. Look at the nylon "D" guide. As it wears, the side lips of the guide wear out/wear off, or the cable cuts such a deep groove in the nylon that there is no tension on the cable and it comes off and therefore the "explosion in the speghetti factory" look. Without cable tension, the black "trolley" that holds the bottom of the window glass succumbs to gravity and the window "crashes" down. You can also have a failure of the plastic "plug" that retains the glass to the trolley. A little silicone seal here would ensure against that problem, although I'm pretty sure a redesigned "plug" is available and used on all operator R&R's. Being politically incorrect, I care very little about seat belt pretensioners (my airbag light has been on continuously for over two months now). I like the feature but I think more about the need for LSD, especially since it rained today and I squirreled around every turn in an unpredictable manner. Of course, I enjoy redlining in first without really much forward movement. I can have the delusion that I have such a powerful car I can break the tires loose at will. You know, chirp the tires going into second and third (if the rain is sufficient). I usually have to wait until I exit the car wash to do that (it rarely rains here or I would have killed myself years ago). Stanny1 -just enjoying my second adolescence with my Manual LS.
in addition to eliminating the airbags, I want them to get rid of the radial tires and go back to the old rayon bias ply tires of yesteryear, the tires that had no traction, no handling, no safety, and wore out in 10K miles...now, those were the days...:):):):):)
BTW-Have you ever had an airbag go off in your car?
It is a real unique experience. You get bruises all over your body and the powder they pack the bag with renders you blind for about 5 minutes. Hopefully, when all this happens you have come to a stop because you cannot control the car because the bag is obstructing your view of the road.
I just wish they were optional and were not forced down the throat of people that do not want them. When I said 5,ooo for the bags, I was being conservative.
I never said I wanted to get rid of the legitimate safety features of the car like the structural crush zone and belts.
I must respectfully disagree. I had the misfortune to run into a young man who ran a stop sign in a stolen vehicle while fleeing the owner who was chasing him (and was extremely large too). I was driving a friends Mazda Miata which was totalled as a result. The whole front end of the car was crushed. The airbag deployed as designed, and I suffered rug burns on my chest from the air bag and a sprained ankle from jamming on the brake and a small cut on my wrist from my watch band which was very slow in healing. I had no "bruises" despite a really high impact. The initial "smoke" was kind of disorienting as I thought the car was on fire and I couldn't get out of the car because I was strapped in and forgot that but it sure didn't stop me from doing anything and it dissipated in an instant. I was still steering and braking and the air bag was deflated before I even knew it had inflated. My first thought was that they had failed and I was thinking how I was going to explain to my friend that I had to get his air bags replaced since they were now drooping in his car. I just think that as small a car as the Miata is, being crushed by a larger car (I think it was an Olds 88, but don't really remember well), and stopping in an instant from about 35-40 MPH, I owe a great deal to the airbag. While fully understanding the downside to them, (I do mostly product liability defense, some automobile), I think the benefits far outweigh any potential problems. I went out of my way to buy cars for my family that had dual airbags. My daughters know about not putting the seats way up and that they must wear their lap and shoulder belts at all times. It helped that they grew up with this as an inflexible rule.
There is no doubt that I would have at least lost most of my teeth on the steering wheel if I had not had an airbag equipped car. I am a believer. I have to believe that the scenario of not being able to manuever the vehicle due to the airbag being inflated is bogus. One of the things most people don't seem to understand is that one of the limitations of airbags is that since they deploy and deflate so fast, they are useless against a secondary collision. That is a major reason that seat belts remain the primary safety device, but in my opinion, air bags are great. I love my teeth, I can live with a rug burn on my chest and face.
The Weaver/EFR/Litzinger driver team with a Reilly&Scott MKIII chassis powered by Lincoln took 4th place in the prototype class at Sebring today. They weren't the only R&S MKIII-Lincoln powered car in the prototype class. Dyson Racing also had one in the race.
lobsenza- right on with pre-tensioners! I believe it was Mercedes who first introduced this feature back in the days before the North American market had been flooded with all the "cheap Mercedes". It was a feature that only very high-end vehicles had, however, the average person on the street (several people I talked to personally at that time, and one lady) thought that if they wore their seatbelt loose that it would retract tight against their chest automatically in a collision!!! (boy, now that's what I call FAITH). It's a feature found only on upscale vehicles, and not found on low-end vehicles ; let's say it could be used, among many other features, as a bellwether of the quality and attention to detail of the vehicle. Consumer Reports considers it to be such a significant feature that they chose to mention it (albeit incorrectly) in a magazine which simply cannot devote precious space to trivial items. The pretensioners, BTW , are a feature of significance only to those who wear seatbelts; over 90% of the population up here in Canada, and about 70% of the population in the USA (shame on you guys!) ; ) lobsensa - break, oops, brake rotor warping and pad life is one of my points of interest in vehicles. The two cars I had before the LS were both rotor warp-free for a long time as well. Every fall and spring while I was changing the winter to summer wheels (torqued by hand) I would also remove the rust from the areas immediately outside and inside of the swept area on the rotor. Buildup of rust here can cause a pulsing in the brake pedal similar to rotor warp. I've been successful in minimizing having to turn down rotors to get rid of glazing by carefully scuffing both the rotor and the pad surface with a piece of coarse coated abrasive which I glued to a flat face of an aluminum plate. This deglazes the rotor and takes down any of the higher spots and ridges and I just use the brakes easier for 50 miles or so after doing this to give them time to re-set themselves. Takes only a couple of minutes since the wheels are already off anyway. Like you I prefer to have my rotors turned as infrequently as possible to maintain braking effectivenes as long as possible with a little extra preventive maintenance. I could be wrong, but rotor warp is caused by other things as well as incorrect lug torque. Uneven cooling after hard braking, riding the brake pedal, metalurgical inconsistencies in the cast iron, and failures in the wheel bearing or caliper assembly come to mind. sclark8 - the performance and handling aspects were the main reason I chose the LS too, but all things were considered. We on this board represent a unique segment of LS owners, and are not at all an accurate cross-section of the pool of LS owners. I have noticed, as have others here, that the majority of LS owners I meet on the street have NO idea of the handling vitues of the LS. Some have merely bought a "pretty cute little Lincoln". One guy was even surprised when I demonstrated the "global opening" feature on his car! But I think that all the correct information on features (such as pretensioners) should be readily available to a person who wants to research the finer points to make a more informed decision. Joe166 - wow, what an experience. Scott - The white dust around the airbag is in fact non-toxic and something most people have in their kitchen - corn starch! They use it to reduce friction when the bag opens. My 75 yr old mother walked away from their '99 Town Car which was a total write-off and caused so much damage to a concrete block building that they didn't remove the car until the roof was braced. No rug burn, no injury, no bruising, and she couldn't recall hearing or seeing the airbag go off (she remembered everything else quite well). I wouldn't smoke a pipe or drive with one hand at the 12 o'clock position in an airbag-equiped car, but some people do, is that the airbag's fault? Scott what's your airbag experience? Regards - Brian.
So, my passenger side rear window crashed this evening. About halfway down. I know I read about it here.. But I guess I never thought it would happen to me, since I hardly ever use the windows.
The only reason I was out driving tonight is because the cell phone service at my home (my only phone), which has been flawless for over 2 years, crapped out.
To top it all off, I get home, come into my office (so I can log on to LLSOC.com to get a copy of the window TSB), turn on the light...and my 2-year-guaranteed lightbulb blows out, after 13 months.
The information I got regarding the torque of the wheels was from Bendix. Since it was the only thing that changed in my case, I am satisfied that it definitely can make a difference. There are, however, other possible causes of rotor warping. Lug nut torque is easy to change, so why not try it. I hand torque all lug nuts on all my vehicles now.
It sounds contrary but, according to the engineers, using the windows often makes them LESS likely to fail. The mechanism is at it's most stressed with the glass up. I also rarely use them and had a failure at about 13 months, couldn't have been more than 20 cycles or so.
But, cheer up. It sounds like the final version of the regulator is in stock at most dealers, so you'll only have to fix it once. And be real careful the rest of the weekend.
Along the same lines I've always wondered who gets stuck with the cars you see in the TV ads zooming along the beach weaving in and out of the surf with all that salt water spraying everywhere. I'm sure they are not thrown away either.
I sincerely question the value of air bags, however the government has taken that choice away from us. I do, however, TOTALLY believe in large, 4 piston brake calipers that squeeze 12-13 inch rotors, which in turn are connected to 8.5-9.5 inch wide rims that are shod with 9 inch tread with tires(in the summer), which are driven by limited slip differentials, and grudgingly, assisted by anti-lock brakes. The driver is able to control this operation because the seat has high side bolsters that hold him/her firmly, but comfortably in place, allowing him/her to easily concentrate on the job at hand, and the steering gear is a quick ratio, but not overly assisted unit. That's my idea of safety equipment, politicaly correct or not.
I have never experienced an air bag deployment (no wrecks since around 1970...been blessed and lucky), but the rest of my post was in jest, as per the multiple smiley faces, like such: :):)
I'm all for safety equipment provided it really adds safety. I question whether passenger side airbags really add any protection IF the passenger is wearing his/her seatbelt properly. We all know airbags were designed for people who wouldn't wear seatbelts in the first place. Maybe the driver could contact the steering wheel and the airbag is needed, but I would like to see them designed and tested for occupants who were already wearing seatbelts. I have no sympathy for people who don't wear them - same as for motorcycle riders who don't wear helmets. Side impact airbags make sense to me as you have very little protection on the sides.
Airbags are expensive to replace and can cost more than the damage to the vehicle. I just don't want to see them used or deployed unnecessarily. I do agree with mandating them as long as they're proven to prevent injuries without otherwise causing harm. If someone doesn't want to wear seatbelts or helmets or use *any* airbags then that's fine - just have them sign a waiver that they're 100% responsible for any injuries they receive as a result of their choice and I'm happy. Just don't make me pay for your choice with higher insurance rates.
Joe166 - given that you were wearing your seatbelt and the seat, belt and steering wheel remained in position (I'm assuming here, correct me if I'm wrong), do you think you would have hit the steering wheel without an airbag? Again I'm not arguing against driver's airbags here. There are obviously crashes where they will help but I think they're deployed too often in crashes where they don't help and, in some cases, can do more harm than good. I think there is a perception that they help more than they really do.
I've been away from this board for a few months and am not up to date on the latest thinking about tire replacements. I have a '00 LS, V-6, auto with about 34K miles on it. The Continental tires wore unevenly although I did get them rotated every 6K miles. I am not sure of the correct term for the problem, but they developed a thumping sound in the 30-40 mph range. Regardless, I am planning to replace them with Michelin X-1s, which I have had good luck with on a Subaru Outback Limited Wagon. Any experience with these tires as replacements on the LS? On the subject of rear window regulator replacements, I have had mine back 3 times. I hope this last fix is the final one. Both were replaced with 1W4Z*5427009(and 8)*AB Reg ASY-RR Dr WDO ELEC under warranty. Have any others had their window regulators replaced with this part? Is it the "final" fix? Thanks for your inputs. Have enjoyed hearing from you in the past.
Comments
chartrand: Now you tell me! (fuel filter). Actually, under normal situations, I would have done this myself, or at least checked my Service CD to see how to do it. In general, Im finding the LS VERY easy to perform maintenance on. (spark plug replacement excepted). I've changed fuel filters before on my old BMW, but it was a hassle. Had to first remove the fuel pump fuse, then crank the car and let the engine slowly starve itself of fuel, while the engine shook like all be damned. (This was the recommended way to relieve the tremendous amounts of fuel pressure frm the system. No, removing the gas cap didnt work. If you didnt to it this way, the second you loosened up one of the "banjo" bolts that held the fuel lines to the fuel filter, you would get hit with a wild and steady spray of what seemed like a half-quart of fuel). This was after you crawled under the middle of the car to even get to the filter.
I was thinking that replacement of the fuel filter on the LS would be a similiar hassle, but obviously I was wrong. Live and learn.
Leadfoot4-Thanks for the tip. Im going to try the same Rockville bodyshop that I used last year. They were able to get to a serious crease-ding that was so far forward in my passenger side door, that Dentworks wouldnt touch it. Cost me $200, but they got it with no painting required. I HATE dings with a passion.
Final question: Can someone explain whats all involved when the dealer has to reprogram this processor? Apparantly it isnt as simple as pluggin something in and clicking "start". What does this processor in the trunk do? Is it the PCM?
http://www.canadiandriver.com/articles/jk/at_010515.htm
Brookstone tires? Do they come with heat and massage built in? I'm sure you meant Bridgestone Turanzas. I prefer the Michelins but I don't think the Bridgestones are bad. They were the OEM tire in between the Firestones and the now standard Michelins. Either should be ok but given a choice I would get the Michelins (personal choice).
Drive another car. Drive several. That way you can rule out a problem with one particular vehicle.
One if the biggest problems with the present 14V systems is the size and weight of the wires required to have acceptable voltage drop. With 48V you need 1/9 the copper in a wire saving a lot of weight and space (if anyone is intersted I'll post the math explaining why its 1/9 the copper not 1/3).
Here's a great question for one of the Ford people. How many lb. of wire is in a LS?
TO the poster who replied about a loud roaring sound from your rear end. (Ok, that one is TOO easy to go after).
Seriously, I would guess a bad wheel bearing. Those things can make a car sound like a truck on the highway. A bad, out of round tire can also make the sound, but usually its a wheel bearing. Not sure if you can replace it yourself, as they usually are pressed in these days.
One note - if you do notice slow shifting you can accelerate the learning curve by repeating the offending shift 3 or 4 times about 20 seconds apart. Same speed and throttle pattern. That will allow the computer to select the optimal pressure for that particular shift. Shouldn't need to do it but it's easy enough to try. At least it will tell you if it's an ongoing problem or not.
Scott
LLSOC Member
Currently, I get 24 mpg on prolonged highway cruising at 75-80 mph (reformulated gas). When using non-reformulated gas, I have gotten as high as 27 mpg for a whole tank. The computer is fairly acurate, differing from hand calculations by at most 0.5 mpg for a whole tankful (I always reset the fuel computer at each fill-up).
Lately, my driving keeps me very close to home with drives often less than 2 miles in duration, and very few opportunities to get out on the highway. My mileage has greatly suffered . . . often resulting in mileage as low as 16 mpg for a full tank. This is not the most economical "runabout" car I've ever owned, but it's still loads of FUN!!!!!
Now if you wanted to put that engine in a Sable....hmmm. What a sleeper that would make:)
- Brian
Lincoln is foolish. They spend all the money to put in a safety feature like seatbelt pretensioners and it is not mentioned anywhere in their new car brochure or advertising. A feature like that cannot sell a car if nobody knows it is there.
I wonder how many people have them as one of their top 10 requirements for a new car? I know that is the first thing I ask the salesman! I'll bet their true importance to the majority of consumers ranks right up there with DRLs. Yep, having those were the two main reasons I bought my LS.
I was asking the dealer if I could order the LS without the 5,000 worth of useless airbags.
The first thing I look at is how the car handles and the performance.
I know this is not Politically Correct but I grew up without all the overpriced safety equipment and am still here to write about it.
I am now going to put on my Kevlar vest but I could not resist.
Scott
LLSOC Charter Member
Of course now they are saying they are going to sell the car. IIRC, the price is going to be around $200,000?
Geez, BMW, why not just admit that you took advantage of a gray area in the rule book and leave it at that?
There's a financial component as well. The increase in my insurance premium was very small when I stepped up from a '95 Subaru Legacy LSi to the '00 LS. According to my agent, this is due to the safety features built into the LS.
Scott
(ditto)
On a related note, can I safely remove the drivers side rear door panel to look and see if the regulator did fail without worrying about the window falling down?
Chrysler and GM got caught doing this back in the 70's and paid a huge fine. GM was turning back the speedometers of slightly used police vehicles and they were found out by the maintenace folks for the PD.
I really do not think Lincoln would ever do such a thing.
Look at the nylon "D" guide. As it wears, the side lips of the guide wear out/wear off, or the cable cuts such a deep groove in the nylon that there is no tension on the cable and it comes off and therefore the "explosion in the speghetti factory" look.
Without cable tension, the black "trolley" that holds the bottom of the window glass succumbs to gravity and the window "crashes" down. You can also have a failure of the plastic "plug" that retains the glass to the trolley. A little silicone seal here would ensure against that problem, although I'm pretty sure a redesigned "plug" is available and used on all operator R&R's.
Being politically incorrect, I care very little about seat belt pretensioners (my airbag light has been on continuously for over two months now). I like the feature but I think more about the need for LSD, especially since it rained today and I squirreled around every turn in an unpredictable manner. Of course, I enjoy redlining in first without really much forward movement. I can have the delusion that I have such a powerful car I can break the tires loose at will. You know, chirp the tires going into second and third (if the rain is sufficient). I usually have to wait until I exit the car wash to do that (it rarely rains here or I would have killed myself years ago). Stanny1 -just enjoying my second adolescence with my Manual LS.
BTW-Have you ever had an airbag go off in your car?
It is a real unique experience. You get bruises all over your body and the powder they pack the bag with renders you blind for about 5 minutes. Hopefully, when all this happens you have come to a stop because you cannot control the car because the bag is obstructing your view of the road.
I just wish they were optional and were not forced down the throat of people that do not want them. When I said 5,ooo for the bags, I was being conservative.
I never said I wanted to get rid of the legitimate safety features of the car like the structural crush zone and belts.
There is no doubt that I would have at least lost most of my teeth on the steering wheel if I had not had an airbag equipped car. I am a believer. I have to believe that the scenario of not being able to manuever the vehicle due to the airbag being inflated is bogus. One of the things most people don't seem to understand is that one of the limitations of airbags is that since they deploy and deflate so fast, they are useless against a secondary collision. That is a major reason that seat belts remain the primary safety device, but in my opinion, air bags are great. I love my teeth, I can live with a rug burn on my chest and face.
Brian
I believe it was Mercedes who first introduced this feature back in the days before the North American market had been flooded with all the "cheap Mercedes". It was a feature that only very high-end vehicles had, however, the average person on the street (several people I talked to personally at that time, and one lady) thought that if they wore their seatbelt loose that it would retract tight against their chest automatically in a collision!!! (boy, now that's what I call FAITH).
It's a feature found only on upscale vehicles, and not found on low-end vehicles ; let's say it could be used, among many other features, as a bellwether of the quality and attention to detail of the vehicle. Consumer Reports considers it to be such a significant feature that they chose to mention it (albeit incorrectly) in a magazine which simply cannot devote precious space to trivial items.
The pretensioners, BTW , are a feature of significance only to those who wear seatbelts; over 90% of the population up here in Canada, and about 70% of the population in the USA (shame on you guys!) ; )
lobsensa - break, oops, brake rotor warping and pad life is one of my points of interest in vehicles. The two cars I had before the LS were both rotor warp-free for a long time as well. Every fall and spring while I was changing the winter to summer wheels (torqued by hand) I would also remove the rust from the areas immediately outside and inside of the swept area on the rotor. Buildup of rust here can cause a pulsing in the brake pedal similar to rotor warp. I've been successful in minimizing having to turn down rotors to get rid of glazing by carefully scuffing both the rotor and the pad surface with a piece of coarse coated abrasive which I glued to a flat face of an aluminum plate. This deglazes the rotor and takes down any of the higher spots and ridges and I just use the brakes easier for 50 miles or so after doing this to give them time to re-set themselves. Takes only a couple of minutes since the wheels are already off anyway. Like you I prefer to have my rotors turned as infrequently as possible to maintain braking effectivenes as long as possible with a little extra preventive maintenance.
I could be wrong, but rotor warp is caused by other things as well as incorrect lug torque. Uneven cooling after hard braking, riding the brake pedal, metalurgical inconsistencies in the cast iron, and failures in the wheel bearing or caliper assembly come to mind.
sclark8 - the performance and handling aspects were the main reason I chose the LS too, but all things were considered. We on this board represent a unique segment of LS owners, and are not at all an accurate cross-section of the pool of LS owners. I have noticed, as have others here, that the majority of LS owners I meet on the street have NO idea of the handling vitues of the LS. Some have merely bought a "pretty cute little Lincoln". One guy was even surprised when I demonstrated the "global opening" feature on his car! But I think that all the correct information on features (such as pretensioners) should be readily available to a person who wants to research the finer points to make a more informed decision.
Joe166 - wow, what an experience.
Scott - The white dust around the airbag is in fact non-toxic and something most people have in their kitchen - corn starch! They use it to reduce friction when the bag opens.
My 75 yr old mother walked away from their '99 Town Car which was a total write-off and caused so much damage to a concrete block building that they didn't remove the car until the roof was braced. No rug burn, no injury, no bruising, and she couldn't recall hearing or seeing the airbag go off (she remembered everything else quite well).
I wouldn't smoke a pipe or drive with one hand at the 12 o'clock position in an airbag-equiped car, but some people do, is that the airbag's fault?
Scott what's your airbag experience?
Regards - Brian.
The only reason I was out driving tonight is because the cell phone service at my home (my only phone), which has been flawless for over 2 years, crapped out.
To top it all off, I get home, come into my office (so I can log on to LLSOC.com to get a copy of the window TSB), turn on the light...and my 2-year-guaranteed lightbulb blows out, after 13 months.
But, cheer up. It sounds like the final version of the regulator is in stock at most dealers, so you'll only have to fix it once. And be real careful the rest of the weekend.
Scott
LLSOC Member
everywhere. I'm sure they are not thrown away either.
I do, however, TOTALLY believe in large, 4 piston brake calipers that squeeze 12-13 inch rotors, which in turn are connected to 8.5-9.5 inch wide rims that are shod with 9 inch tread with tires(in the summer), which are driven by limited slip differentials, and grudgingly, assisted by anti-lock brakes.
The driver is able to control this operation because the seat has high side bolsters that hold him/her firmly, but comfortably in place, allowing him/her to easily concentrate on the job at hand, and the steering gear is a quick ratio, but not overly assisted unit. That's my idea of safety equipment, politicaly correct or not.
Airbags are expensive to replace and can cost more than the damage to the vehicle. I just don't want to see them used or deployed unnecessarily. I do agree with mandating them as long as they're proven to prevent injuries without otherwise causing harm. If someone doesn't want to wear seatbelts or helmets or use *any* airbags then that's fine - just have them sign a waiver that they're 100% responsible for any injuries they receive as a result of their choice and I'm happy. Just don't make me pay for your choice with higher insurance rates.
Joe166 - given that you were wearing your seatbelt and the seat, belt and steering wheel remained in position (I'm assuming here, correct me if I'm wrong), do you think you would have hit the steering wheel without an airbag? Again I'm not arguing against driver's airbags here. There are obviously crashes where they will help but I think they're deployed too often in crashes where they don't help and, in some cases, can do more harm than good. I think there is a perception that they help more than they really do.