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Comments
My guess is water/moisture must have gotten into something to cause the problem. Then as "it" dries out, it returned to normal. Have you guys had/heard this happening to other LS, a common LS problem? And of course, the next question, should I bring the car to the dealer now, when everthing is normal, or wait for another "rainy" day?
BTW, this is the 1st time of such problem. It did have other AC related problems before, but not this kind (IP/vent rattle, fan motor noise, bad control unit, etc, all fixed however).
2) OR, your A/C display could have been throwing a code for some malfunction. May wanna have the dealer check it out.
nvbanker, did you mean you've seen/heard this happen after a car wash? Do you know which part could be the problem, sensor, wire, connector? Like I said, for me it's the first time, I need some pointers here.
I guess the one positive thing from this is, now I know the answer to this LS trivia, "Does LS have a negative sign '-' on its thermo display?" After all, we haven't seen minus temperature here for several years, let alone driving in it.
This happens every time I get the car washed - the water gets on the sensor behind the grille, and cools it way down (which around here can be 50 degrees, but is never going to take it into the cold regions). It slowly compensates back up and for the period of time it thinks the ambient temp is much lower, I get reduced cooling, but not no cooling in this range. The unit considers the outside temp and compensates somewhat. I don't know if that's what happened to you or not, but that's what has happened to me in all of my Ford cars with auto climate.
MSRP $40,950/pay $30,770 (A-Z plan plus additional $1,000 Ford A-Z plan coupon plus $6,000 Ford cashback.
Light Tundra Metallic V8 Sport.
Any words of wisdom?
Juat have to get the little woman to test drive it to see if she can accept the different ride between her 89 Lincoln Towncar and the 04 LS.
Should make a nice companion to my 2003 TBird, 94 Tbird, 58 TBird, and 64 Galaxy 500XL convertible.
Any words of wisdom?"
Enjoy it!
- Ray
'03 LS V8 Sport Autumn Red
Wow, nice stable!!! I had, and restored a 65 Galaxie 500XL myself a few years back!
The LS will be a totally different ride than the Titanic (89 Town Car) your wife is used to, however, it's so much more fun to drive, she'll likely be fine with it. And it will be the best car you've ever owned.
Thanks again for the contact information. I intend to call them today to pass it along.
Yeah, nothing rides like a Towncar, but neither my wife nor I can take to the recent TC styling. Besides, the only good color for a TC is black, and, around North Jersey, you'd look like an airport limo service driver.
Even with 145,000 miles, you do not hear or feel suspension travel when our 89 TC hits a sewer plate or pothole. That will take some getting used to. But, I have noticed when taking limo service to the airport, the new TCs handle better (than my 89), but they seem to transmit the bumps more.
So, the LS it is.
Thought about the 2004 Marauder that was on the dealer's lot. She didn't like it ("why would I want to ride around in a car that looks like something from Homeland Security"). Does make sense. And,I figure a new LS 8 sould be quicker than a stock MM, handle better, have enough interior room (empty nesters) and trunk space for the two of us.
If I can get the highway MPG from the LS that I got recently with my TBird (27.5), I'll be totally satisfied. (The 89 TC takes regular, but it's a very thirsty car.)
Any winter driving suggestions (tires, etc), I'd love to here them. Also, does the 03 TBird and 04 LS share a common wheel offset? I'd like to mount snows on my TBird wheels and use them on the LS for the winter. Then, I'd buy a set of 04 TBird premium wheels and Vogue Tyres. (The white/gold stripe Vogues on the black TBird look great. I've seen pictures on the TBird Thunderbird Nest chatbox.)
In just over 10,000 miles (approx. 30 fills) on my ’03 LS V8 Sport, I never averaged over 25.0 mpg for a full tank.
If I fill the tank in the AM before driving to work, the display (proven quite accurate) will typically show something like 26 – 27 or even 28 (if A/C is off) as I pull off the highway after 18 to 20 miles at 65 to 75 mph. But then it starts a slow decline as I drive on surface streets, commute home in the thick of Metro-Hotlanta PM traffic, drive short hops such as to lunch, and drive weekends when I have more opportunity to ‘exercise’ that lovely V8. If I do some extended driving outside my normal commute, I have seen some averages between 23 – 24 mpg over a full tank. And I rarely drive over 2,650 rpm.
Just one data point. And I certainly don’t think that this is bad at all, given the other vehicle attributes. . .
- Ray
Wondering what highway mpg the LS would achieve with the 6-speed trans. in current Jags.
http://internationalreporter.net/scripts/techDetails.asp?id=104
What's that saying, you never get a second chance to make a good first impression?
Happened to me once - the afternoon I picked up my '03. Went away on a re-start (<ctrl> <alt> <delete>) and has not happened again in 10,000 miles. . .
Good luck!
- Ray
Never even brought it to the attention of Service . . .
2021 VW Arteon SEL 4-motion, 2018 VW Passat SE w/tech, 2016 Audi Q5 Premium Plus w/tech
I have gotten pleanty of mileage out of them and the noise level is pleasant and the grip is great. I live in florida so the warm roads likely lend hand to thier sure footedness but I love them and intend to buy another set after i retire, pardon the pun, these. The 712's are dynomite in the curves but tread wear is horrible.
They have had the car now for about a month and a half since the replacement of the REM 2 weeks ago have not been able to duplicate the probelm.
On one of the test drives they cracked my windshield so i had my insurance company replace it there at the shop.
Plus I am having them replace the solenoid pack and the valve body in my 5r55n. This will be the 3rd time but the first time I have had to pay for it.
According to the Parts folsk and the tech responsible for my car this is a systemic problem with the LS of the 99 and 00 years. The SA said they do about 3 a week. Who ever designed this transmission deserves to be keel hauled.
The bright side is that they said if the first relacement would have included the valve body I would have never required a second or third repair. So if any of you are experiencing problems with shifting in to reverse and harsh/ late shifts and are considering going in to the dealer for work take some time to interview them.
Consider becoming a AAA member and find out if your dealer is AAA approved repair site becasue if the workmanship lacks or the repair they stated would fix your car didn't AAA will arbitrate for you and the dealer has to accept AAA's decision but you don't. I won't go into why I now know this but I feel obligated to share this with you all.
despite the foul weather I have endured i will certainly be happy to be seated in the drivers seat of my LS again.
have a pleasant evening.
"So if any of you are experiencing problems with shifting in to reverse and harsh/ late shifts"
is corrected by a TSB. The number is 01-14-05 (for cars built before 10/17/2000, there is also one for later builds) and it is a pcm re-calibration. Sounds to me like your dealer looks at you like a cash cow (ABSOLUTELY NO offense intended towards you!!!!) See if they even bothered with the TSB. They also appear to be nothing more than parts changers, never looking for the root problem. I'd find a new service department!
The harsh shifting and late shifting is just one problem. The other issue is when putting the car into reverse. It takes up to 10seconds most of the time and then kicks really hard like someone hit you from the rear.
This is the second dealer to diagnose this problem and they did it without prior knowledge of my previous repairs. Unless the PCM can loose the reflash which I possible but highly unprobable I know that this transmission has issues correction SUBSCRIPTIONS.
Unfortuneately now the depth of thier search is limited to the breadth of my bank account because these repairs are paid for by me.
I have no doubt that many of the dealer's service shops do not know what they are doing. I can't afford to go to yet another dealer shop for service. I am loosing money and time plus the folks that are now taking care of my car have little or no history with the vehicle.
If I had that kind of money I would have purchaed a Bentley or Rolls.
Hey question: If these are being replaced under warranty doesn't that work have to be approved by someone other than the service department. I am sure they told me before the first 2 repairs thAt they had to get approval for this sort of stuff due to the cost.
Just because the computer reported a sensor it doesn't mean the sensor is bad. You really need to test the sensor to determine if it's bad or if what it is sensing is bad.
I have no idea where a man on the street can find these factory tools.
honestly, I would take it in and let them deal with it.
This would lead me to conclude that the service people at any urban dealership should be more than familiar with that tranny (since there are so many Explorers on the road.) It sounds like your dealer is referring to the 5r55n tranny in general.
The only time I get a delayed downshift in my '00 V6 LS is when I use the SST and it is only the 3 to 2 downshift - never the upper gears and never on an upshift in either mode. I had the tranny fluid changed at 30K and need to do again w/ 64K on the clock.
I had the same problem and after sanding them twice I havent heard a peep since then. rest assured you bought the best pads out there.
There fix for the shutdown was to replace both fuel pumps and the engineers followed that up with recommending that the rear electronic control module be replaced.
The solenoid pack and valve body have been replaced and I can certainly tell a big difference from the previous repairs which only the solenoid pack was replaced. Only mileage will tell but I feel very confident about the work and testing that has taken place.
The fine folks at Courtesy LM in Tampa, Fl didn't even charge me labor for the tranny work and I supplied the parts.
They told me that I needed to replaced the #4 coil becasue it was diagnosed as misfiring so I plan to begin the replacement process of CoPs now. If any of you have done this on the V6 sport I would like you opinion on one thing.
Should I do all 6 or wait for them to fail and handle them a they come.
I figure #4 is on the drivers side and I do not have to take down the intake system yet, underscore yet.
have a pleasant evening.
I suppose the same thing might happen with repetitive late breaking as well. With the 50/50 loading of the car I couldn't even say if this would be a front dominant issue.
I know that when I did my brakes I only sanded the fronts but I used the porterfields on all four.
Did you only do the fronts? If you did the back brakes did you make your own pistion wind back tool or did you buy one?
This is a front/back balance and thinkning back to cub scouts it was better to front load the car in the soap box derby. Obviously there is a big difference between gravity races and automobiles but I am curious as to why they are so proud of the platforms weight disti.
With ~equal weight distribution, all four tires will begin to lose traction at about the same time. Put a different way, all four maintain traction up to a higher speed, which yields better cornering performance than with a FWD car in which the rear would tend to slide.