Almost forgot - have you noticed the anti-dive, anti-squat feature on the LS? When you nail the brakes, the front end doesn't dive for the pavement and the rear end doesn't lift up - it just squats down (or if you're a UGA fan it 'hunkers down') and stops. This probably reduces the weight transfer to the front but more importantly it keeps the car under control. That was one of the features that really sold me on the LS back in 99 and it's one that doesn't get mentioned very often. Next time you watch a braking test on TV notice how much the front dives, then compare it to the LS. They actually built this into the suspension geometry. Still amazing.
Come to think of it I don't think i have noticed. Sort of like the anti-dive they use on motorcycles. This should help reduce speeding tickest as highway patrol persons will not be able to see the LS nose dive from 100 to 75 MPH.
Thanks for the information; I like finding out about features i didn know were there.
Recent had the windshield replaced and they asked if I had wiper defrosters.... well to make a long story short I honestly didnt know so i called the tech tha had my car. Well if you are a native of and live in Florida, SWFL, you dont know to look for these things.
"This should help reduce speeding tickest as highway patrol persons will not be able to see the LS nose dive from 100 to 75 MPH." A few of the E28 M5 pilots I used to run with had momentary switches wired into the brake light circuit. Holding the switch down = no brake lights. Throw in a V1 and a laser jammer and you'll be cleared for takeoff...
Based on the reports of a number of other LS owners, I tried the Porterfields on my Camaro first, because that car never had terrific brakes from the get-go. I was very impressed with their performance.
My wife's LS sort of needed a pad replacement recently, so I installed Porterfield pads, along with a set of slotted rotors and stainless steel covered brake hoses. It stops much better now!
Less than 300 miles on the LS, but there's a few things I noticed when comparing the ride to my 03 TBird.
Going around a slow corner, the TBird gently goes into 2nd gear while the LS seems to downshift harsher.
The easiest way to compare the two cars is, if you want to go for a ride, take the Bird. If you want to go for a drive, take the LS.
First sad good-bye. My 89 Towncar was sold in a heartbeat, even with 145,000 miles. Neighbor bought it, and had no trouble with me keeping it for a week to take down the Jersey shore. Gave me a deposit and immediately ripped the FOR SALE signs from the windows.
Second sad good-bye. My local mechanic gave me the bad news yesterday. My 64 Galaxy 500XL (clone) convertible's frame has hit the dangerous point due to rust.
So, after 35 years of ownership and 207,000 miles, it's time to sell it as a parts car. I could easily sell it to some unsuspecting buyer, but the possibility of that person, along with others, being killed isn't worth a few thousand dollars. (At the mechanic's shop, people kept coming up and asking if it was for sale.)
Car's a real looker. Pagoda green (turquoise) with black buckets, white top. Rebuilt automatic trans, 352 4v, 250 hp, holley 4 barrel, and a 3:50 rear. Many spare parts (even have a 64 factory A/C unit in the garage along with NOS rear bumper guards). Extra 500XL hubcaps, very good chrome, seats have wear, but overall a stunning car.
Will advertise on Ebay and the Galaxy Owners Club webpage.
yeah... i had my honda cbr900rr hooked up like that. I only picked up one ticket on that bike and only becasue my inner voice told me to pull over. The county line was but a few miles ahead too, what a dummy.
Took a 500-mile round trip (that's plenty long enough for me...) over the weekend and am reminded of how much I love my LS.
Loaded up with 3 adults and a trunk full of heavy luggage - the 2000 V6 did just fine with A/C running and all. (Could I have used more power - of course, but I didn't really need more at any time.) I love the fact that it is geared just perfect, that if you need turbo power at 73 mph, it will still go down to 3rd and run up to 90 before shifting.)
The anti-dive and anti-squat features came in very handy during hard braking (especially for unsuspecting, sleeping passengers - that aren't propelled forward.)
Brake pads: I rotated my tires before the trip and checked my brakes. At 65K - I still have what looks like almost half of the original pad remaining on both the front and rear. I do live in a hilly terrain and have to brake a lot. I do also use the SST a lot to help brake. Anyone else getting long life out of their original brake pads? I know I use them a lot, because I still get really dirty rims - fast.
I thought the same on my rear pads but upon removal discovered that the wore more to the lower right portion of the pad if you were to be looking at them from the installed perspective. But that only happened on one wheel. I think my OEMs were installed up to the 62k miles. IMO I thought they would have made it another 10k or 12k with the one exception.
I took your advice and sanded the pads & rotors. It worked for my morning commute to work but on the way home I heard that all too familiar squeak. The Porterfields I ordered were the R4S and they did not come with any hardware at all. I replaced all 4 corners and used a "Histle" piston tool for the rears that I purchased at Sears. I ordered a hardware kit from Rockauto and that included new clips, rubber boot for the pin and the resting shield (?) for the shoes but the kit did not include a shim so the back of the pads are in direct contact with the pistons. I thought this was strange since the original pads had a shim between the pad and piston. I think I will try a few of the hard stops that were recommended and if that doesn't work I'll sand them one more time before I throw them away and go back to original. I just have a hard time pulling up to a stoplight in my shiny Dark Satin Green LS and having it squeak. Kind of embarrassing.
As I previously mentioned, I put a set of Porterfield pads and new rotors on my wife's 2000 LS. She's an elementary school teacher, so the LS doesn't get a lot of use during the summer.
School has now gone back for the fall, and the LS is back on it's daily driven regimen. So far, no odd noises from the pads...(the Porterfields on my Camaro have been silent for the last two years)
Did you have the rotors resurfaced (turned) prior to installing the new pads?
There is a very strong chemical reaction between a pad and a rotor. The residual molecular webbing from the old pads is probably still on/in the rotors causing a non-linear friction interface. With a MAJOR compound change like you made, you should definitely consider having the rotors resurfaced. Then take the time to bed-in the pads before making any judgements.
My Porterfields never squealed and my EBC's don't either. NEITHER set used any shims or silencing compounds...
Good luck!
Oh, and keep in mind that the R4S needs some time to heat up before they work properly. I think their range starts at about 500*F up through like 1200. The EBC's are a bit lower on both ends of the range, so they bite quicker on cold stops, but also give up sooner on the track...
WOW! Thanks for the education. I hadn't considered the impact that changing braking material can have on the braking system. I will be buying new pads soon and considered using the EBC this time around but think I will stay with the porterfields just so I don't have to resurface the rotors.
The front rotors are fairly new so I could afford to cut them but the rears may be on the questionable side and may be replacing them during the pad change.
What sort of problems or benefits for that matter could one expect to encounter if they used 2 differet types of pads. Say EBC and Porterfields in a front/ back config?
Two different pads could have two different coefficients of friction, therefore messing up the inherent brake balance of the car.
For example, I had kevlar pads from Praise Dyno Brake on my Camaro at one time. Better pads than stock, but still not up to the Porterfields that are now there.(as well as on our LS) Let's say I kept the Praise pads on the front, but put Porterfields only on the rear.
In a hard stop, the rears grab first, which would normally cause rear lock up. OK, the car has ABS, so the rears don't lock, however weight transfer causes the fronts to do 65-70% of the braking. By having the less effective pads on the front, I lose overall braking performance.
Do the reverse, and the Porterfields are on the front, the Praises on the rear. The Porterfields grab first, which is OK, since the front gets the weight shift, but now the rears are doing practically nothing. So again, you lose braking performance.
IMHO, it's best to use the same pad compound on both the front and rear.
I was wondering what MotorTrend knew about this "redisgned" 06 LS. I haven't heard a thing. Also saw an 05 LS on the local lot. Didn't know they were coming out already. Only difference I could tell was that it had the silver trim around the windows. I thought they took it off for the 03 year? Very basic V6, MSRP was just under 33K.
The blacked out window trim was for the sport models only (V8). I don't think the non-sport models had it (V6).
As for the redesign - it's a guess. If it does get redesigned it will probably get a new name (Continental is a good bet) and be a totally different vehicle. The DEW98 platform and Jag derived V8 appear to be dead at Ford. Anything new will most likely be based on the Volvo P2 platform (like the 500 and Montego and Freestyle) with AWD.
Is anyone aware of a problem with the hydraulic slave cylinder affecting the clutch in either the 2002, 2001 or 2002 LS? Please email me at captdavid@hotmail.com. Thank you
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Not sure about 3rd party, but check with Torrie at fordpartsnetwork.com or Bill Jenkins at Signature Lincoln Mercury in Las Vegas for the best internet service and prices.
kool thanks for the tips. I would have tried to get the OEM through my friend that owns an auto shop but t I called the dealer and they were out. Apparently the sell a lot becasue they go bad frequently.
Finally, I recently hit the 100k mark and this is the first for me. I am delighted to say. However, I am worried the seal has been broken now and would like to hear some of the statistics on these things.
I am shocked I made it this log; considering all the problems I have had I feel obligated to drive up to the mothership to thanks the installer that assembled my ignition system.
In the words of my old XO after ranting on the 1MC forever......
I was told today by the Parts Manager at my local L/M Dealer that rounded lug nuts were now covered under an S.S.B. issued by Ford. This discussion took place after I mentioned that I had to buy twenty lug nuts from Torrie for my LS.
I also mentioned that a friend was going through fits after his rear window failed, but the dealer refused to replace both regulators, per T.S.B. He (the Parts Man) told me that the T.S.B. was still in effect, but there was now a fourth generation replacement. It contains yet another new regulator, but the motor is now kept. Mechanics are now screaming because the labor times haven't increased, but they are required to drill out three or four rivets to reassemble the window regulators.
This place used to be a lot more fun when it was LS owners helping each other, rather than an unmentioned club attempting to gather members for their own good. Not that I wasn't a member at one time, but . . . .
I just thought that I'd provide the heads up for any one that might be interested, since we're all here to help each other out.
Hey thanks for the information. Did you happen to get the 4th gen part number for those window regulators?
I think I have another on the way out. You said they are keeping the motors now in the window regulators..... Are you saying that the replacement part no longer comes with the motor or that they may have a core charge.
well, its weird. I'm definitely keeping an eye on it, but I've discovered that it only shows problems shifting if I am accelerating at a slow pace. Either crawling in traffic or accelerating moderately to briskly results in very smooth and deliberate shifting.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
I bought the new regulators without the motors from Signature for $26.68 each plus shipping. The local dealer wanted $40 each plus tax and they had to wait to order them. Bill shipped them to Atlanta from Las Vegas overnight for $25 and I had them less than 24 hours after I ordered them.
You do NOT have to drill out the rivets. The motor is held on with 3 torx head screws and it took me all of 3 minutes to move the motor over to the new one. Mine had been replaced once before under warranty so it may be possible that the original ones had rivets but mine definitely had 3 small torx screws - piece of cake if you have the right size torx bit.
Here are the part numbers for the 2000 (should be the same for all but can't guarantee it)
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Parts man had no information as to what regulators are still being replaced, but I wonder if the drilled out and replaced applies to the third generation regulators. My 2000 has had both rears done, so I guess that I look forward to replacing them again. Since both of my front failed as well, I wonder if that part number changed as well.
Gunner, I didn't get the part #'s, but akirby was able to provide the information for us. I was only passing on the frustration that the Parts Guy was feeling at the time. I only repeated the rivet information as it was reported to me, but I agree with you statement. How many of these regulators haven't been replaced?
Now, if only they'd cover the "sway-bar" bushings and rack seal into the extended warranty, I'd be a bit more pleased.
All I will say is it traveled really well in Cat 1 to Cat 2 Hurricane Force winds and the traffic between Tampa and Orlando was the best I have ever seen.
I managed to make the trip in record time under extreme conditions. I pray I never have to do it again but if required I wouldn't make the trip without my trusty, well mostly trusty , sloop-of-war.
It has come to my attention that the my 2001 Lincoln LS V8 Oil Filter has been updated to reflect part # FL2021. The replaced oil filter was FL2008
I was comparing the filter and the new one (FL2021) is shorter in length that the old one (FL2008). I called the dealership and asked the question, and they said that the new 2004 engine could not fit the FL2008 one in so they made it shorter.
Is that true? Of is this one of Ford's way of cost cutting by not making 2 separate oil filters?
The other question is, does any know which one filters and performs better? The FL2021 or FL2008?
Personally, I think the bigger the filter the more surface area it can filter. But then again, Ford must have tested the smaller new one, otherwise they wouldn't put it in their new more powerful V8 for 2004 and beyond.
They changed it for the new vehicles and it was cheaper for them to use the same filter on the old ones. Why carry two different part numbers if you don't have to? I'm sure either one will work just fine.
I, for one, appreciate the simplicity of fewer parts to try to find. There was a time, every Ford engine in production took an FL-1 oil filter, where GM had hundreds of filters required for their models. Almost every GM model had a unique oil filter. What a nightmare for auto parts stores to stock alone! There's no need for it. An oil filter is not that complex, and a good one is a good one. If you change it often, at least at 5,000 miles, it's be more than adequate if it's properly made. No need for two different models. Anyway, that's how I see it. YMMV>
Does anybody know the exact differences between the 11-18-99 prior (XR83-7002-AA) and after (XR83-7002-AB)? Apparently there was a design change and I'm trying to find out what they are.
I have a list of all the engineering changes that occurred since day 1 and there's nothing noted about the manual trans in that timeframe (or at all, actually).
If you go to order a transmission for it, you are asked what the production date is. There is a pre-11/18/99 and post-11/18/99. I have written to Getrag and they are going to find the engineer for that trans to answer that question.
I don't doubt there are different part numbers and that something changed, but it doesn't appear to be anything major like the gear ratios or anything the driver would notice.
I had a 2000 MTX LS built 2/2000, so I guess it had the "newer" tranny. I also E-mailed the head LSMTX engineer in Dearborn often and he never mentioned a change or asked me what tranny I had. I really enjoyed my MTX and miss it. It was a 3 year lease and would have bought the car at lease end but Ford Motor Credit wanted $3,000 more than Blue Book. I had changed the lube to Synthetic just after a few months. I used Red Line "D" Synthetic ATF. The Getrag is really small, and it's torque rating is inadequate for any torque over the what the old V-6 could make. At lease turn-in, It had a faint whine in second gear. Of course, I took no prisioners in my driving style and the car survived two LS Manias - one at California Speedway. Great Fun! My 2000 MTX, despite the Borla,K&N, and 2002 Air Box (all in Heyjewel's "Winter Only" MTX) was only a low 7 second 0-60 car, and I swore I'd move up at least a second. The brats wanted an SUV, so I'm leasing an FX45. But I miss the LS cornering prowess. I can't throw the FX into 4 wheel drifts or even slide out the rear end. I really miss that. My next vehicle will be a RWD, 4 door, MTX. The non-BMW choice is quite sparse. Maybe I'll find a used LS MTX. A new Getrag is a lot cheaper than most automatics.
My Borla was donated to the Prez of LLSOC, not to Heyjewel. Sorry George. Hopefully, it's on Brian's 2002 LS MTX, who got a brand-new MTX from Lincoln after they became "discontinued". A very under-rated car - the LS MTX.
First, Brian, who I don't think will respond here, sold his MTX soon after he bought it. You'd have to ask him why.
I still have mine :>) and, except for Ford being complete AHs about a problem with my climate "control" system, refusing to acknowledge that a difference in air temp between vents of from 20 to 50 degrees is a problem, I still love my MTX LS. Yeah, I've got your K&N airbox in it, though I've yet to clean the filter:>( And I've got a magnaflow cat-back which is great, finished with oval chrome tips.
Have used a couple of oil filters (I'm on Mobil 1 now at 51,000 miles) but the brake pads are still in the cabinet. Brakes working just fine still with OEM pads. Have not changed the tranny oil, maybe will soon. No whines. Car still tight as a drum. I'll bet it's a high 6s 0-60. Replaced OEM tires with much improved Firehawks. They're great. All else well. Hope same for you, Stan.
Kinda hate to finish with this, but honesty is the best ...
If I were looking for a RWD-MTX car right now obviously could't look at the LS, thank you very much, Lincoln, but I would look at the Cadillac CTS-V. It will blow your mind, Stan. And the new STS is a beauty, though I don't know if it's avail with MTX. Caddy is just kicking Lincoln's butt anymore. But hey, if you really want a Lincoln with MTX, I think the Zephyr might be the car for you. Of course, it's FWD and a Mazda, but it's got the Lincoln star! :>)
Brian had to sell the MTX. Not by choice, mind you. For further info, you can email him.
Too bad the CTS is, IMNSHO, so ugly! Were the LS to disappear, that would be my only option as American made is required. The design of the 300 is also going to look dated in a few years. At least the LS's styling is timeless. This is the first car I've owned that I'm not looking forward to trading in. It's just getting more comfortable with 93K miles!
Comments
Thanks for the information; I like finding out about features i didn know were there.
Recent had the windshield replaced and they asked if I had wiper defrosters.... well to make a long story short I honestly didnt know so i called the tech tha had my car. Well if you are a native of and live in Florida, SWFL, you dont know to look for these things.
A few of the E28 M5 pilots I used to run with had momentary switches wired into the brake light circuit. Holding the switch down = no brake lights. Throw in a V1 and a laser jammer and you'll be cleared for takeoff...
My wife's LS sort of needed a pad replacement recently, so I installed Porterfield pads, along with a set of slotted rotors and stainless steel covered brake hoses. It stops much better now!
Going around a slow corner, the TBird gently goes into 2nd gear while the LS seems to downshift harsher.
The easiest way to compare the two cars is, if you want to go for a ride, take the Bird. If you want to go for a drive, take the LS.
First sad good-bye. My 89 Towncar was sold in a heartbeat, even with 145,000 miles. Neighbor bought it, and had no trouble with me keeping it for a week to take down the Jersey shore. Gave me a deposit and immediately ripped the FOR SALE signs from the windows.
Second sad good-bye. My local mechanic gave me the bad news yesterday. My 64 Galaxy 500XL (clone) convertible's frame has hit the dangerous point due to rust.
So, after 35 years of ownership and 207,000 miles, it's time to sell it as a parts car. I could easily sell it to some unsuspecting buyer, but the possibility of that person, along with others, being killed isn't worth a few thousand dollars. (At the mechanic's shop, people kept coming up and asking if it was for sale.)
Car's a real looker. Pagoda green (turquoise) with black buckets, white top. Rebuilt automatic trans, 352 4v, 250 hp, holley 4 barrel, and a 3:50 rear. Many spare parts (even have a 64 factory A/C unit in the garage along with NOS rear bumper guards). Extra 500XL hubcaps, very good chrome, seats have wear, but overall a stunning car.
Will advertise on Ebay and the Galaxy Owners Club webpage.
I did get to test the anti dive today and you are right, of course, rock solid. Just another reason to GRIN.
Loaded up with 3 adults and a trunk full of heavy luggage - the 2000 V6 did just fine with A/C running and all. (Could I have used more power - of course, but I didn't really need more at any time.) I love the fact that it is geared just perfect, that if you need turbo power at 73 mph, it will still go down to 3rd and run up to 90 before shifting.)
The anti-dive and anti-squat features came in very handy during hard braking (especially for unsuspecting, sleeping passengers - that aren't propelled forward.)
Brake pads: I rotated my tires before the trip and checked my brakes. At 65K - I still have what looks like almost half of the original pad remaining on both the front and rear. I do live in a hilly terrain and have to brake a lot. I do also use the SST a lot to help brake. Anyone else getting long life out of their original brake pads? I know I use them a lot, because I still get really dirty rims - fast.
School has now gone back for the fall, and the LS is back on it's daily driven regimen. So far, no odd noises from the pads...(the Porterfields on my Camaro have been silent for the last two years)
There is a very strong chemical reaction between a pad and a rotor. The residual molecular webbing from the old pads is probably still on/in the rotors causing a non-linear friction interface. With a MAJOR compound change like you made, you should definitely consider having the rotors resurfaced. Then take the time to bed-in the pads before making any judgements.
My Porterfields never squealed and my EBC's don't either. NEITHER set used any shims or silencing compounds...
Good luck!
Oh, and keep in mind that the R4S needs some time to heat up before they work properly. I think their range starts at about 500*F up through like 1200. The EBC's are a bit lower on both ends of the range, so they bite quicker on cold stops, but also give up sooner on the track...
The front rotors are fairly new so I could afford to cut them but the rears may be on the questionable side and may be replacing them during the pad change.
What sort of problems or benefits for that matter could one expect to encounter if they used 2 differet types of pads. Say EBC and Porterfields in a front/ back config?
For example, I had kevlar pads from Praise Dyno Brake on my Camaro at one time. Better pads than stock, but still not up to the Porterfields that are now there.(as well as on our LS) Let's say I kept the Praise pads on the front, but put Porterfields only on the rear.
In a hard stop, the rears grab first, which would normally cause rear lock up. OK, the car has ABS, so the rears don't lock, however weight transfer causes the fronts to do 65-70% of the braking. By having the less effective pads on the front, I lose overall braking performance.
Do the reverse, and the Porterfields are on the front, the Praises on the rear. The Porterfields grab first, which is OK, since the front gets the weight shift, but now the rears are doing practically nothing. So again, you lose braking performance.
IMHO, it's best to use the same pad compound on both the front and rear.
As for the redesign - it's a guess. If it does get redesigned it will probably get a new name (Continental is a good bet) and be a totally different vehicle. The DEW98 platform and Jag derived V8 appear to be dead at Ford. Anything new will most likely be based on the Volvo P2 platform (like the 500 and Montego and Freestyle) with AWD.
http://www.detnews.com/2004/autosinsider/0409/13/a01-271661.htm
SteveW - better limber up those fingers for paddle shifting.
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Finally, I recently hit the 100k mark and this is the first for me. I am delighted to say. However, I am worried the seal has been broken now and would like to hear some of the statistics on these things.
I am shocked I made it this log; considering all the problems I have had I feel obligated to drive up to the mothership to thanks the installer that assembled my ignition system.
In the words of my old XO after ranting on the 1MC forever......
That is all .
I also mentioned that a friend was going through fits after his rear window failed, but the dealer refused to replace both regulators, per T.S.B. He (the Parts Man) told me that the T.S.B. was still in effect, but there was now a fourth generation replacement. It contains yet another new regulator, but the motor is now kept. Mechanics are now screaming because the labor times haven't increased, but they are required to drill out three or four rivets to reassemble the window regulators.
This place used to be a lot more fun when it was LS owners helping each other, rather than an unmentioned club attempting to gather members for their own good. Not that I wasn't a member at one time, but . . . .
I just thought that I'd provide the heads up for any one that might be interested, since we're all here to help each other out.
I think I have another on the way out. You said they are keeping the motors now in the window regulators..... Are you saying that the replacement part no longer comes with the motor or that they may have a core charge.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
Can someone tell me where the number 4 COP is on the V6? Thanks in advance.
-nmp
Forecastle
41
52
63
Stern
For the non-naval folks:
Front of the car
41
52
63
Rear of the car
You do NOT have to drill out the rivets. The motor is held on with 3 torx head screws and it took me all of 3 minutes to move the motor over to the new one. Mine had been replaced once before under warranty so it may be possible that the original ones had rivets but mine definitely had 3 small torx screws - piece of cake if you have the right size torx bit.
Here are the part numbers for the 2000 (should be the same for all but can't guarantee it)
R/R regulator- 4W4Z-5427008-AA
L/R regulator- 4W4Z-5427009-AA
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-nmp
Gunner, I didn't get the part #'s, but akirby was able to provide the information for us. I was only passing on the frustration that the Parts Guy was feeling at the time. I only repeated the rivet information as it was reported to me, but I agree with you statement. How many of these regulators haven't been replaced?
Now, if only they'd cover the "sway-bar" bushings and rack seal into the extended warranty, I'd be a bit more pleased.
Thanks for all of the information and insight.
Getting another car with a manual and something resembling luxury won't be an issue for me until this one ('00) packs up.
So far, so good, but it looks like I'd better start getting used to the notion of yet another series of window regulator changeouts.
I managed to make the trip in record time under extreme conditions. I pray I never have to do it again but if required I wouldn't make the trip without my trusty, well mostly trusty
That is all.
I was comparing the filter and the new one (FL2021) is shorter in length that the old one (FL2008). I called the dealership and asked the question, and they said that the new 2004 engine could not fit the FL2008 one in so they made it shorter.
Is that true? Of is this one of Ford's way of cost cutting by not making 2 separate oil filters?
The other question is, does any know which one filters and performs better? The FL2021 or FL2008?
Personally, I think the bigger the filter the more surface area it can filter. But then again, Ford must have tested the smaller new one, otherwise they wouldn't put it in their new more powerful V8 for 2004 and beyond.
I really enjoyed my MTX and miss it. It was a 3 year lease and would have bought the car at lease end but Ford Motor Credit wanted $3,000 more than Blue Book.
I had changed the lube to Synthetic just after a few months. I used Red Line "D" Synthetic ATF.
The Getrag is really small, and it's torque rating is inadequate for any torque over the what the old V-6 could make. At lease turn-in, It had a faint whine in second gear. Of course, I took no prisioners in my driving style and the car survived two LS Manias - one at California Speedway. Great Fun!
My 2000 MTX, despite the Borla,K&N, and 2002 Air Box (all in Heyjewel's "Winter Only" MTX) was only a low 7 second 0-60 car, and I swore I'd move up at least a second. The brats wanted an SUV, so I'm leasing an FX45. But I miss the LS cornering prowess. I can't throw the FX into 4 wheel drifts or even slide out the rear end. I really miss that.
My next vehicle will be a RWD, 4 door, MTX. The non-BMW choice is quite sparse. Maybe I'll find a used LS MTX. A new Getrag is a lot cheaper than most automatics.
A very under-rated car - the LS MTX.
You've given me incentive to respond.
First, Brian, who I don't think will respond here, sold his MTX soon after he bought it. You'd have to ask him why.
I still have mine :>) and, except for Ford being complete AHs about a problem with my climate "control" system, refusing to acknowledge that a difference in air temp between vents of from 20 to 50 degrees is a problem, I still love my MTX LS. Yeah, I've got your K&N airbox in it, though I've yet to clean the filter:>( And I've got a magnaflow cat-back which is great, finished with oval chrome tips.
Have used a couple of oil filters (I'm on Mobil 1 now at 51,000 miles) but the brake pads are still in the cabinet. Brakes working just fine still with OEM pads. Have not changed the tranny oil, maybe will soon. No whines. Car still tight as a drum. I'll bet it's a high 6s 0-60. Replaced OEM tires with much improved Firehawks. They're great. All else well. Hope same for you, Stan.
Kinda hate to finish with this, but honesty is the best ...
If I were looking for a RWD-MTX car right now obviously could't look at the LS, thank you very much, Lincoln, but I would look at the Cadillac CTS-V. It will blow your mind, Stan. And the new STS is a beauty, though I don't know if it's avail with MTX. Caddy is just kicking Lincoln's butt anymore. But hey, if you really want a Lincoln with MTX, I think the Zephyr might be the car for you. Of course, it's FWD and a Mazda, but it's got the Lincoln star! :>)
Brian had to sell the MTX. Not by choice, mind you. For further info, you can email him.
Too bad the CTS is, IMNSHO, so ugly! Were the LS to disappear, that would be my only option as American made is required. The design of the 300 is also going to look dated in a few years. At least the LS's styling is timeless. This is the first car I've owned that I'm not looking forward to trading in. It's just getting more comfortable with 93K miles!
Take care, you guys....