Chrysler 300M

99_300m_ric_va

I have a 99 that just turning 36K, no probs yet. Keeping my fingers crossed.

beach15

With all the talk on this board about the Badyear LS tires and their problems, I've been worried about them on our car. We currently have 11,000 miles on our M and the tires have never been rotated--some of you might thinks it's a bad idea, but I'm not so sure. They usually ride very smoothly but with a lot of noise on some roads and sometimes with a little vibrating or pull. When I looked at them, they seemed fine but I am no tire expert. However, on the front tires I noticed some odd jagged rubber in between the tread and the sidewall. I don't think this is something wrong with them, it just struck me as odd that the rears were completely smooth and this was only on the front tires--both of them. Here's a pic below, any ideas? Click on it to view all three.

beach15

This goes all around both of the front tires. Sorry about the image quality but look closely and you should see what I mean.

phases78

that is odd.. but keep in mind the front tires get much more wear and tear to em, cuz the car is front wheel drive, turning, etc....

u say they're badyears? id change em out to be safe....

just my $.02

phases78

anyone???

lonestarsled

My Badyears have had that since day one, just not as pronounced as yours. Like your tires I have had good luck with mine, except for the road noise, rotated at 4,000 miles, now just under 8,000 miles. It is an obvious parting line from the fabrication process. And it appears that some tires get this "flashing" trimed off better than others. Remember that these are OEM tires, this is a typical area where auto manufacturers cut costs. Just to be sure, the rubber protruding from the tire will be extremely thin and probably just pull off with your fingers, then thats what I am talking about. It does give the impression that these tires where fabricated like retreads.

ottowrkr

was the smokers package just sitting in the trunk, or was it under the carpet????hidden ????

phases78

it was just sitting in the trunk, in a little cardboard box with a lable on it identifing it..

my wife is going out and getting my window sticker from the glove box now, so we can see if it's meant to be in the car...........................

ok its meant to be there 20 bucks and guess what else?!?!?!!?! ITS A PHP CAR!!!! im gonna cry!!!!!

phases78

ok for those of u that skipped my last msg cuz it was addressed to otto, my car has PHP!!!!!! i didnt even notice till ill looked at window sticker to see if it was meant to have the smokers group. yes!

traley

No doubt, can't deny that.

sirharper

I bet you're wishing you hadn't been so hasty now aren't ya? Tell you what I'll do...give me $7000 and we can trade cars! Not a bad deal I got a Deep Slate 2000 with 4500 miles. Just kidding...look at it this way your speed sensor might be OK now!

300michael

I am the one with the lighted gear selector and lighted tail light mods. First the selector.
There are no bulbs in in just a electroluminicent strip that has to be removed and put 6 LEDs in its place (use the brightest you can find). You will also need 6 micro switches to turn on the LEDs. The wireing diagram is on my homestead site. Check Club site for address. I used LEDs instead of bulbs, because they last longer.
As for the tail lights.
The outer ones have three wires going into them. The center one has only two. you have to acutally add a third wire to it. I drilled a small hole in the bulb connector to run the wire through. I used solid core (22ga)(easer to bend) and striped about 1" off the end. Ran the striped wire through the connecter and made a right angle bend so that the wire would contact the bulb wire. Then spliced the other end to the corresponding wire on the outer bulb.
Later on I will be doing the same thing to the turn and backup lights. With my new camera I will be able to show better pictures of the process.

sdmike2

PHG rocks. Congrats. Just added $500 to the value of your M. If anyone wants my "smokers group" stuff just ask. Also, if anyone wants a set of stock champion platinum plugs with 3,000 miles on them, just ask. If anyone wants an engine block heater....not sure if I can remove it, but I sure as hell don't need it.

-M

jona57

Last weekend a relative visited with his early 99 LHS @ 30K mi. Neat to compare the 2. I was glad to see how well the interior had held up after 2+ years. My M is clearly sharper handling (w/ PHP), sharper styling (IMHO!) & more 'upscale' with the lux grp, but that LHS has its good points. Smoother ride, less tire noise (yes with those Eagle LS's which have been trouble-free on that LHS), and more rear seat room. Both nice cars in their own right. Too bad they are terminating the LHS. I think DC is nuts to say it cannot turn a profit on this upscale version of an existing (and already financed!) platform.

easyrider300m

just got back myself--now I dont like talkin to myself so come to chat room at the Enthusiasts Club site and lets get the rap session rollin: http://www.300mclub.org/chat.htm

easyrider300m

what options did your previous M have--does the new one have more or less options than the first one--did you sign over your other M to them yet or do you have to fix it first--do you feel better now------man,that was the fastest car-buying decision I ever saw---guess you just cant stand to have a damaged M ---

Best of luck with your new M--sounds nice with PHP and all---time to zaino it---post some pics asap---are you gonna do the exhaust exactly the same or are you making any changes from your other M---

just wondering--did the dealer comment on your mods--the exhaust, emblems, grill work--and did it detract from the value of the car--

Congrats again and enjoy---are you still thinking about ordering the Special in 2002?--

300michael

No one was there when I went on eather at 7:20 AZ time. Maybe we can do it tomorrow.

silverbullet4

yeah, that's exactly right. We wuz watchin' the fireworks. Big day for me-neighborhood parade this morning, social group party this afternoon, birthday dinner for my wife and a friend, and finally fireworks. I got to go to work tomorrow and get some rest! LOL. My "days off" can be hectic but fun. I'm looking forward to getting my new Infinity BassLink installed sometime in the next two weeks. Hope everbody had a safe holiday. Silver

ruski

I had two engine speed sensor failures, almost back to back. The car had about 18K miles on it at the time and we had recently moved from NY to Florida. I had this idea a few times in the back of my head "maybe Florida heat has something to do with this?"

My 300M was built in October 1999.

phases78

sdmike: that engine block heater is all i dont have, ill take it lol

easyrider:it is just like my last M but black, less miles, not a wrecked vehicle, has the smokers group, and is PHP(!!!). i sold it to them as is.. and they're gonna fix it up to how i had it, leaving everything on it that i didnt take off when i traded it (duals, wood kit) becuase they think it'll sell quicker that way. hehe cool huh? and no, the mods didnt deduct for the value, not for me at least..
im beyond happy with this M. as far as not likeing to have a wrecked M, no i dont like to own any car that has been wrecked, it will effect it it's whole life, and i dont wanna deal with that. i have taken pics and will have them posted tomorrow. the only downfall to all this is i have to start a new website all over again, and do the mods again, allthough all i have left is window tint, duals, and wood kit. i MAY do something a little differrnt with my exhaust, but i'll probably do it just like the last one, it sounded so cool..
p.s. this php is awesome, i can take turns at unholy speeds without squeeling of tires, rolling of the body, and soooo easy to control. although i dont drive like that often, its nice to know i can!!

scotian

I received my Eaglite 9006SX 12V 80W lo-beam Xenon bulbs from Midnight Moose and it appears that the bulbs are welded to the connector at a slight angle. The 9005 XS 12V 100W hi-beam bulbs are nice and straight.

As far as I know, the filament has to be exactly in the right spot for the headlamps to produce the correct pattern. Are my bulbs defective?

scotian

2000 Service Manual, p. 8L-26:

Ash Receiver 161
Door Courtesy 212-2
Glove Compartment 194
Overhead Console 192
(map lights?)
Overhead Information Center 4437661
(bulbs that illuminate buttons?)
Reading Lamp, front/rear 192
Trunk 906
Visor Vanity 6501966

Does anyone know where I can find extra bright / Xenon replacements for these (194, 192, 906, 212-2), or by what other numbers these may go by?

scotian

Back up 3157K
Center High Mounted Stop 921
Front parking/Turn signal/Side marker 3157 KNA
Fog lamps H-3 (55 watt)
Headlamps 9005 XS (hi) 9006 XSLL (lo)
License plate 168
Tail 168

How does 3157K differ from 3157 KNA?

tucsongil

I was swimming at my friends house tonight who is a manager at one of the local Discount Tires store and he told me that the worst tire make is General tire. Problems with Goodyears too(btw, my brother had problems with two sets of Goodyear Wranglers on his Suburban. Put Pirelli Scorpions on and has zero problems). He told me that Michelin is the best tire going.(They do not sell Bridgestones)

Monday I went ahead had him order in four Michelin Pilot XGT Z4 P225 55 17s to replace my badyears. Two prorated defective and two at $180 each(I get free tire rotation and balence from him too). I choose the stock Michelin Z4s in case I needed warrenty work on my "M". I did not want to give the Chrysler tech/service adviser any reason not to service my car under warrenty if there is a brake, suspension, axel, ect.... problem. The Pilots should be in on Monday and I will be ready for take off then!

Beach have your tires rotated and balanced at multi-line tire shop and hope they find something wrong with them! Then you can have them pro-rated and then upgrade your tires with a different brand like I did.

0patience

The only update info I could find pertaining to the VSS was this. Don't know if it is of any help.

NUMBER: 21-07-99

GROUP: Transmission

DATE: April 9, 1999

SUBJECT:
Transmission Output Speed Sensor Wires Fatiguing

OVERVIEW:
This bulletin involves securing the transmission harness to the dip stick tube.

MODELS:
1999 (LH) Concorde/Intrepid/LHS/300M

NOTE :THIS BULLETIN APPLIES TO VEHICLES BUILT BETWEEN JULY 14, 1998 (MDH O714XX) AND SEPTEMBER 27, 1998 (MDH 0927XX).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION:
Transmission wires either breaking or pulling out of the output speed sensor connector.
-------------------------------------------------

bigmike5

I looked in the book and can't find an answer to this. Do we have two passing gear shifts in the 99M. When I am rolling up an entry ramp at like 35mph and need to accelerate into traffic, I step down on the accelerator and get a passing gear. But, on those occasions when I really tromp down to the floor cause I need to really move, I get a violent downshift and "nitrous type" reaction, but normally only for a second or two and then its shudders into the higher passing gear. I'd just like to know if there are two downshifts possible or if the tranny will be dropping on the highway soon. As I said, I looked in the book under various headings and could find nothing on this topic. Anyone know? It definitely does not downshift like my 93 Regal GS or the wife's 00 Eldorado do.

easyrider300m

I dont downshift using the stomp on accelerator method--I got in the habit of using the autostik and never have a problem--I cant even remember using the pedal method---maybe others can comment on the foot stomping method--

fuzzywuzzy

Mine went out also at around 30K. The hot FL weatehr might have something to do with it.

On the tranny, No one has very high milage on their M's. So no one has needed a rebuild. Most people trade or have sold thier M's with under 60K miles. My past bad experiences with trannys have been at 60, or 70K miles. Jury is out on this issue. The M is too new a car. In 5 years, we will see. Lets hope your problem is just a speed sensor. I don't recall anyone's M's stalling before due to this problem.

fuzzywuzzy

You were most likly in 3rd gear at 35mph, pressed the gas, downshifted to 2nd, then when you pressed it hard downshifted into 1st. I hate when the M does that. That's whay I use the AS all the time.

easyrider300m

I had the hiss noise as well and they replaced the throttle body--I did notice a label on the engine that they reprogrammed the chip---I still have a hiss noise though maybe not quite as loud--but its still there---especially noticeable from about 1800 to 2000 rpm---I didnt complain about the slight hiss I still have as the car runs fine--others have also commmented on the hiss---can you guys check your car--turn off radio and ac and close windows---listen for slight hiss at around 2k rpm at constant speed-=(around 50-60mph)--I think its common with the 3.5 engine--there is a tsb on it that says to replace the throttle body--anyone else have the throttle body replaced and did it solve your hiss problem

ottowrkr

What you feeling sounds like under light throttle passing the torque converter which locks at a certain rpm is unlocking and you feel like this is a downshift in the trans .Then the other time you hammer the gas , you unlock the torque converter and go down a gear for that violent downshift as you call it. That's normal operation .
Throttle Body question - the TB is not a hard job to replace ,you just have to know what to do. To gain access to the TB the wipers and plastic cowl cover are removed first,then the air cleaner hose , then the strut tower to tower brace will be removed.Three bolts that hold the TB to the intake are removed and a couple of electrical connections unplugged,install new part .That's it. No the computer does not have to be reset .But any good shop will disconnect the battery when working on your car , so it will most likely learn your driving habits all over again

silverbullet4

I agree with you on the use of autostick instead of putting up with the occasional violent downshift to first gear. sometimes while I am rolling through a toll booth in 3rd I want to accelerate smoothly, but instead of catching 2nd gear, it grabs 1st, resulting in an unexpected commotion. Most annoying, and hard on the tranny.
Silver

bigmike5

Thanks for the response. They should put something in the book on passing gears as it appears to me that the GM and Chrysler products respond differently. Also did you see my post sometime back questioning the reason the Platinum paint was discontinued? I would still be interested in an answer to the that question, if you know?

silverbullet4

My 2k was delivered to the original owner in April, 2000. I bought it in August with about 6500 miles on the odometer. I know the car was driven in the mountains of CO when it was fairly new. Now have about 12,500 miles, and have been thinking about the best approach for transmission service. I have heard of an expensive fluid from a company called Amsoil (sp?). Does anyone have a recommendation for how to keep my tranny alive? I have read that one service method drops the pan, but only changes about 1/3 of the fluid.
I remember posts about having the transmission flushed. Can dealers do that? Would I be better off going to a transmission specialty shop? Thanks in advance for any advice. Silver

ottowrkr

Yes Platinum paint was a very nice shade. As with anything, DC makes changes some good some bad. All I know is they said Platinum paint is gone . no reason given

easyrider300m

the M doesnt call for a tranny fluid change till I believe 30K for hard service---I believe in an earlier change and had mine done at the dealer at 17K--they claim they just drop the pan and change the filter and add about 4 quarts of fluid--so not all the fluid gets changed that way. I had them do it and then found out they used the wrong fluid. They used atf 3, but the manual called for atf 4. I told them it was shifting poorly so they agreed to give me a full flush of the fluid and put in atf 4. So I guess I got a thorough job. Atf 4 is very expensive --like 8-10 dollars a quart. Just a partial change would run about $120 at the dealer. Dont know what they charge for a flush and filter change but I bet its mucho dollaros. You might ask the local tranny place if they can do a flush but make sure they will use atf 4.

Someone here recommended the amsoil and said it is approved for our cars. Supposedly it gives longer life and being synthetic would take the heat better. I may consider it at about 40K. How many of you have done a tranny service?

Easyrider

silverbullet4

My wife's 93 Plymouth Gr. Voyager has had its trans. rebuilt twice, and she babies it. I think the extreme heat in TX may reduce the reliability.
My previous car, a 96 Ford Taurus had its automatic w/ OD rebuilt twice (this is a really bad design). The Amsoil website says they exceed the requirement for ATF 4. List price for 12 quarts is $89, but it doesn't have to be changed as often (they claim). Sounds like you got the best of the deal, with a full flush job.

fuzzywuzzy

I have done 2 of them 1 at 15K, 1 at 30K, & every 15K after that. It might be over kill, but having 2 other cars whose trannys died & left me stranded in the middle of nowhere is not fun, so I'm a concerned about changing it. I could care less what the "manual" says.

lflowers

I've been looking for new tires lately. I want to change to a wider high performance tire, but I have found that, with the 7" wide rims, there is no suitable tire available which will fit properly.
So now I'm considering buying new wheels. The one I've seen that I like best is the "Imola" made by TSW. In a 17' x 8" size they sell for $180 each. They are about $55 more each to go to 18" x 8" size. I'm thinking of buying the 17" x 8" wheels and using 245/45-17 Goodrich G-Force tires. I've had very good results in the past with Goodrich Comp TA series tires.
Does anyone have any idea what I might be able to get for 4 chrome Razorstars?

Lynn

avalanche165

!!! your in luck, with tires you can get 1000 bucks for your chrome razorstars. gotta get'em up on ebay. goto www.ebay.com and search up "Chrysler 300m". they'll be an auction or two for 300, wheels and tires. i always just watch'em cuz when i get my new ones i'l sell these as well. they go for a grand or right near there. never heard of a stock rim selling for that much, they look good on a lot of cars tho...good luck and remember, PICS PICS PICS of new rims, ive seen those rims they look awesome. but if u are gonna go with a 45 series tires, why not 18's?

denverm

This one?: http://tsw.com/findwheels/catalog/wheelimages/Imola.jpg

sdmike2

My wife's 96 Grand Caravan needed a new tranny at 60,000 miles. DC trannies make me nervous.

iflowers - I think the max size for the 7" wheels is 245, so it's possible that you don't even have to replace your rims to use those. You'll also want to look at the tire sizing guide at the link below to compare your proposed sizes to stock and see what the speedo/odo impact will be by changing.

http://www.miata.net/garage/tirecalc.html

sdmike2

I looked at a tire chart and those tires probably need 7.5" rims. Here is a chart from Toyo for one of their high performance tires that can give people a rough idea of what will fit on what rims.

http://www.toyo.com/tires/tire_lines/high_perf/specs/fz4.html

sibe

Russ, the price you quoited me is that for 2 or for 4? Can't seem to e-mail you...dns prob. Thanx

Sibe

mykem

I had a Canadian 'cold one' that we can't get here in the US. (1 down, 23 to go...)

Sure, it may be the nasty big brewery up there, but the "XXX" version is better than any big nasty brewery down here!!!

-m

ruski

the 1st gear does produce a good amount of power but it reaches redline VERY quickly and shifts to 2nd.

Sometimes I slap AutoStick into 1st to pass someone at lower speeds but the result is a bit violent.

russklass

The net price of the medallions was 11.75 each.
My e-mail address is in my Edmunds profile, RussKlass@aol.com

bigmike5

Roger--Can I get some more of the intro cards for the windshield. I really can't believe it, but I have been spreading them like Johnny Appleseed. Never thought I would, but once I did the first one it became a routine. I am out of cards now. Please send some more. This "thing of ours" is getting bigger.

lflowers

Avalanche: considering 17" rims rather than 18's just because of price diff (approx $60 per wheel) plus 18" tires are also more expensive. I'm getting close to retirement, gotta watch my pennies!

DenverM: Yeah, those are the wheels I'm considering. I like 'em a lot better than the Razorstars!

sdmike: I did check out the sizes on the tire calculator. The 245/45-17's would make the speedo read just under 4% fast (better than slow....less tickets!) If I went to 245/45-18's, the speedo error would be almost nil, but wheel/tire combo would be more expensive.

Does anyone know if either of these would cause any fitment problems?

Lynn

fuzzywuzzy

I ran 245/45-17's for months. I was warned about using such a norrow rim. Guess what...nothing but vibrations, & pulling. I had the car alighned with the stock tires, the car drove fine, not a shimmy or pull. Put the other tires back on, & all of it came back. I used Dunlop SP9000's. The fit is fine with the 17's. I now have the 18's with the same tires & size just 18"s & all is good. I'm using a 8" rim. I also test fitted a 255 tire but did not like the clearence between the tire edge & the tie rod end. It was soo tight. They did fit with no rubbing, I could see light, but I could just get a ruler edge it the space. It was too tight for me. My 18's are stock backspacing, so a rim with more positive backspacing should clear with more room.