Chrysler 300M

fuzzywuzzy

Are they really? Yuk! I'll keep my 18's, & put them on the special if I get one.

intrepidspirit

What is "the 3.7L V6"?...or is that a typo?

scotian

look a little ... feminine. They're interesting, though. Better than most out there. However, nothing's beat the chrome 17" Razorstars (which resemble neither razors nor stars) yet.

sdmike2

I think otto is a plant supervisor or something. He knows WAY too much about WAY too many parts of the M to be the guy that bolts the seats into the car.

I like those new wheels, by the way. I just can't tell if they're chrome or not (MUST have chrome)

sdmike2

I'd love to have 300M logo floormats either with just the shield, or maybe the center of the club logo without the lettering around the edges.

beach15

Those wheels are just silver like what's standard on all M's. They are not chrome. Personally, I don't like them myself (what a suprise) and think they should go back to the straight spoke one's in all the Special pics if they're gonna use either of the two. Wonder if that mule has the Hemi or what?

hitek1

I'm new to the message board, however I was wondering does anyone have any info on the 2002 300M. I hear that it will include a 300HP V6, 18-inch tires and other exterior upgrade appearances. I was also looking at the Dodge Intrepid, however it these changes are true for the 300M then it's a no-brainer. I would also like to know if anyone is in the same situation that I'm in determining whether to purchase a 300M or an Intrepid. Both have great body styles, engine. Yes the 300M is more luxury, however the Intrepid is more of a better value(IMO) So basically it's a toss up!

lflowers

I think most in this forum would prefer the 300M over the Intrepid R/T (surprise, surprise!!).
I myself drove both and was wavering a little, but I came down on the side of the 300M, primarily because it's a little shorter in overall length and, thus, a little easier to park.
I think I could have been pretty happy with either one.

Lynn

sibe

I'm interested too, but wonder whether it may be wiser to sacrifice looks for functionality. I would prefer a rubber to cloth material with appropriate logo etc... Just keeping an eye open to potential move to snow country...

Sibe

stevenw300

I have had the tube for about two weeks and have been dreading the prospect of installation. If your corrections to the instructions work, and I have no reason to believe they won't - you are a hero! Thanks in advance. I'll let you know how the install goes and whether I experience any change in exhaust tone (I'm still running the stock exhaust - but a custom dual is next on the list)

avalanche165

ok guys, first timer here for brake pads. just a quick procedure will be gREATLY appreciated. how do i replace brake pads. i can figure it out but need to save some time, painting calipers as well right now....

there are two bolts for the calipers correct? but how do i get that metal clip off teh brake pad? thanks.... i really need to do this quick...

avalanche165

ok i got the caliper off, its sitting on a foam board, still connected to brake line. i'm not disconncting the brake line, but i did something wrong....unscrewed this big bolt connecting a square piece on the back, and all these yellow oily liquid started pouring out. its everywhere, and i got it back on but most of the liquid drained out. thats brake fluid right? pleeeeeeez tell me it is! i hope it wasn't something else. it was urine color yellow....

avalanche165

i figured it out, good stuff, i like it. jsut clipped on and off, man you guys should see how worn down they were, i'll take pic....but what about that yellow fluid? what should i do about that?

hatax

That big square thing, that is the brake line....... And that yellow stuff is brake fluid.
Now that you've got air in the system, do you know how to bleed break lines? You will need to do this otherwise the system will not work correctly and the front driver side won't brake evenly with the rest of the car.

avalanche165

naw i dont know how to do that. help me out?

beach15

Last night I posted about the bumpy/rough section that appeared recently on the top of our M's steering wheel. Well, here are the pics. It's a little hard to see but look closely right at the top of the wheel.

beach15

Does this look like a defect worth asking about? I don't know if the dealer would do anything to it. Click on the pic to see all three.

stangspankinm

check your e-mail

sibe

Normally unless you have an auto bleeder, it's a two person job. One pressess down on the brake until you hit bottom. When you do that the other person shuts the valve to that tire off. You then let go of the pedal, person then opens the valve and you press down again. PLEASE NOTE you MUST start with the brake that's FURTHEST from the master cylinder in order to purge the air out of the whole system. Once you've done that for the four tires, have someone pump the brake and check:
1) Inside the master cylinder for any air bubbles
2) whether the brake pedal slowly glides to the floor.

Make sure that you have a piece of hose going form the bleeder into a glass jar that is parially filled with brake fluid and that the hose when the brake pedal is released is always inmersed in liquid to prevent you aspirating more air into the system.

If 1 or 2 is present, start flushing the system again.

Sibe

avalanche165

ok so i start with longest brake line first, right rear, then goto Driver rear, then right front, then driver front, correct? and how do i put the brake fluid back into the system? if i put into a bottle, then hook hose to it :
open bleeder, press pedal to ground, close bleeder, release pedal. repeat like 20 times. but what about the fluid? will that go into the system while i'm doing all this? thanks. Stangspaker, thank you so much man, i owe you one.....

avalanche165

where do i check for air bubbles? can i physically see them?

300michael

just follow the directions, except as stated. When you hook up the tube after applying the soap. While applying pressure to the hose just slide a very small shafted secrew driver, back and forth to help put it on. The same goes for the top air box. You can even take the tube apart (the long shaft off the rest) to help work it on the TB.

mach300

Hello all, Long time reader, first time actually adding something to the board-lol.

My question is to those of you out there that own a non-PHP 1999 300M and have installed the H&R Sport Springs. Has anyone ever found a way to get rid of that annoying front-end vibration upon acceleration? I replaced the Goodyears for Michelin Pilot XGT-Z4s, they are all balanced and the car is perfectly aligned. I love the car, the tires, the lower stance and look, the improved handling, but I am STILL experiencing this vibration! Does anyone out there know how to fix this problem?

jgoodson

The master cylinder is under the hood (its where you check your brake fluid). Be sure to add fluid in the master cylinder periodically as you bleed the brakes or you will introduce air in the brake lines there. You will also see air bubbles as the fluid flows into the jar. The bubbles will cease when the system is bled properly.

mach300

To all of the M owners who have done exhaust mods out there, Im looking to do this, just not sure which route to take. I've heard good-and-bad news about all systems so far. How did you decide which one to do? There are so many different exhaust systems now. Do you do the duals mod or buy the borla catback system or try to develope something new? Can anyone help me out with suggestions here? As to me, looks are not as important as performance is (other then maybe chrome tips), so if the only other benefit outside of performance is the "dual" look, has anyone tried to modify that somehow to still get the same performance, just not the dual cut out look? Or should I go with the borla system or what? Not saying that I wouldn't do the dual mod, just not sure which one to choose. Can anyone help me out here?

ottowrkr

If your car has ABS and all 300's do you have to have a DRB to open the valves on the ABS pump to get the air out of the lines if you have lost the fluid out of the Master cylinder and/or ABS pump.Av, don't fool with brakes if your not sure what to do. Get someone who knows . This is serious stuff.
sdmike2- who said I bolted the seats in(not even close) ?also I am not management . I know about this car because my job requires me to and because I want to know as much as I can for my own use, and I take pride in my job

jedi_knight

You have more knowledge than any of us M owners. But one question has never been answered............how is the speed limited on the non PHG equiped M's? The ECM appears to be the same so my guess is a module is plugged in some place? Avalanche said his machanic had removed his in less than 5 minutes and was going to post the how to but the shaved door handles took priority.

Thanks,

Keith

denverm

Whatever doubt there might have been, it's totally gone now - I ain't never gonna try to bleed my brakes, replace my pads, or do any other brake work! Changing the oil is about the limit of my automotive mechanical skill (haven't stripped the drain bolt yet!)

ottowrkr

It all done in the with electronics(software),no plug in module. There are two controllers one with a speed limiter and one with out. Now can they remove the limiter from the non-PHG I have know idea . I imagine with the correct DRB and knowledge anything can be done .
Denverm- doing brakes when replacing pads and rotors is not a big deal . But once you open those lines you better know what your doing . Cause when your doing 85 down the interstate and you hit that brake pedal to slow down for the off-ramp you better have no air in that system . Also did you guys know you all have Drum brakes in the rear??? yup under your rear disks are drum brakes used for the emergency brake system . It is a two in one system .

300michael

As for the best exhaust system, the answer is each one is the best. Your question is like asking which flavor of Ice Cream is the best. It really depends on what your main priorties are. The Borla system True dual system Hujo dual syst
Single exhaust dual exhaust single dual
louder then most mod loud quieter
most expensive mod expensive less expensive
great perfor. great perform. great perform.
easy install hardest install moder install
longest lasting depending if stainless steel
There is not going to be a noticable differance in performance or gas saving between the above types. You will notice a big differance between the above types and the stock exhaust though. Your budget and willingness to cut (for dual) your rear fesha is the determing factors, or you can go totally custom. If you wanted to you could even put some side pipes like the old string rays had. Each of us that have done it will probably tell you that ours is the best. If you have a chance to go to one of the get to gethers next month, I think it would be a big help to you, seeing all the different types out there.
Another word of caution thought if you plan on changing the intake side it will effect the sound of your exhaust a little.
Hope this helps alittle.

300michael

My new dealer tells me that the limiter can not be changed, although I doubt this.

300michael

so I was unable to do some runs with the G-tech. Speaking of which I believe BF Goodrich is giving away a G-tech with the purchase of four tires. So if you are planning on a set of g-Force tires, it could help sweeten the deal.

phases78

i cut my entire exhasut system off at the converters, ran the two pipes into a flomaster, and ran them all the way down to chrome tips. it was louders, but a really good tone, and performace was noticably better. milage was up 1 mpg or so, just remember, disconnect your battery while your having it done so that it can relearn a couple things with your new exhaust..

easyrider300m

supposedly it increases fuel economy by an average of 33% and increases HP by about 5%--its not cheap @ about $200---read about it in an unbiased auto newspaper article--http://www.mpgbooster.com/

If it really works, it sounds unbelievable. But who knows--anyone willing to give it a try?

they also mentioned the tornado product which someone mentioned on this board---wonder if its a waste of money or if it really works--

bbraddock

I have a 2000 with the agate interior. While not overly hot in Michigan, it gets hot as heck in the car. The air conditioning in the manual mode, and with re circulate, doesn't seem to cool the car very fast. The auto setting seems to be even slower. My 5* says it is working fine. My guess is, the agate interior doesn't help. Anyone else having a cooling problem? Or any suggestions.

sirharper

Chances are your AC is fine. My Slate/Agate does the same thing only slightly worse I would imagine in my Cincinnati Heat/Humidity. My temporary solution was a sun shade which does help significantly. I will be going in soon to have my windows tinted but in Michigan that is a problem (I lived there for 15 years). The only thing I can suggest is that unless you are in traffic don't leave it in re-circulate mode. Personally, I trust my auto option to make the right decisions most of the time.

ottowrkr

I didn't think you would be able to remove that limiter or DC would just have one controller and turn the limiter off or on as needed. So that dealer must be giving AV a barrel full with the alarm thing and now the limiter

avalanche165

opened the wrong bolt, theres brake fluid EVERYWHERe, and not only that, it mixed with the half dry paint that i was putting on calipers, so nows its all over the rotors. HOW DO I GET BATTERY FLUID AND PAINT OFF OF MY ROTORS? degreaser?

avalanche165

shouldn' this piece go back a little bit so i can fit in one brake pad?

ottowrkr

You have let the piston come out of the seal, dirt and paint may have gone in behind the and contaminated everything.Thing are not looking good from what I see. If I was you I would take my car (towed) to the nearest brake place or dealer.If you do get the piston back in the brake pad goes on the piston side first, then you put the other side on that clips snap over the caliper

avalanche165

ok time to get it towed......

i took the piston completely out (not on purpose), so its definitely contaminated to no end. at least i got one good thing outta this....knowledge, of how dumb i am

ottowrkr

No biggy , sometimes we get in a little to deep . at least you know what not to do next time .

silverbullet4

Sorry about your brake job adventure. Sounds like Murphy's law is still in force! I can remember rebuilding my Rochester 2GC carburetor with great results. Also built my own transistor ignition system. (So hot a spark it ate up distributor caps and rotors). Now? fugetaboutit! I mean, look how hard it is to even change headlamps. And changing spark plugs strips out the coil holddown screws? What's up with that?
Otto-Good advice!
Anyway, AV. Get that car into capable hands.
Silver

silverbullet4

Some cretin "keyed" my hood in a parking lot last night. At first, I was feeling rage, then realized this is just a thing, not a member of my family. We all enjoy good health and mutual love so something like the action of a sociopath should be taken in perspective. Having said that, I would still like to whack him around.
Peace, Silver

300michael

sorry to hear about your brake adventure. At least now you can write a book on brakes "shoulda, woulda, coulda", or "brake jobs for dummies".:) I hope you get a good 5* guy to do it right.
I am thinking of writing "Wireing 3157 bulbs for dummies".:)

300michael

sounds interesting, will have to read the fine print thought to see if it is one of those 0 to 40% increases in MPH. Two hundred is pretty steep also.

sdmike2

Otto - Hope you didn't take my comment wrong. Nobody said you were the guy that "just puts the seats in", I just used this as an example of someone that may not know more about the car than their task at hand. The goal was to compliment you on your knowledge of the M, pry again into what job you do (inquiring minds wanna know), and to thank you for all your help and insight on this board.

Easy - I read some "independent studies" commissioned by the maker of that fuel device, so I'm not sure quite how independent these stories are. I also found 3 or 4 of them around the web, all very similar. The device is supposed to work by using magnets to "stabilize" the fuel and make it burn better. Got me if it's a load of hooey.

bbradcok - I live in San Diego and it can also get pretty warm. Window tint and sun shades help a lot. I also leave my sunroof and side windows vented slightly when I can. Also, when you first get in, open a couple of windows with the system NOT on recirculate to help push out the hot air. Even if it's 110 outside, it's still 20 degrees warmer in the car! As for the AC, I find that mine turns on much higher (and louder) than I think necessary when I first get in, and then backs itself off a little too much after it cools down. I often turn it up or down manually for this reason. Overall it does a fine job of cooling.

Av buddy - You've done us all a great service by screwing this one up. Now we know that it's probably worth the $ to have the 5* do it.

Mach300 - Here is a link to my photo galleries, including my dual exhaust project. I use the "Hujo" design, replacing the three stock mufflers with a high flow collector and a high flow resonator with dual output. Ed Hanson Muffler will sell you the tips for $15 each, or the custom staggered Y-pipes with tips for $100 per side. Email me if you want his contact information.

Big Red Photo Galleries

sdmike2

I'm thinking of writing "Let Other People Do It" For Dummies.

stevenw300

I was at the dealer this AM buying the wife a Town & Country LXi and asked for info on the "tuner special". I was given the following info from book which dealer had. Here is what is says about the 300M Special (I would scan it and post a copy but the quality of the copy is not that good):

Special model includes unique seats, Nisha I/P and door trim laminate, dark gray metallic ground effects on fascias and bodysides, HID headlamps, unique badging, dual exhausts with fascia cutout, 18" Special aluminum wheels with P245/45ZR18 96Y Michelin Pilot Tires, performance brake system, unique steering and suspension system, unique higher output performance engine, and 150 mph speedometer. Available in 3 colors.

ottowrkr

Hey ,no offence taken. I never took your comment as a putdown . Just wondered were the seat bolt install job came from. I would tell you more about my job , but not sure if my postings on this site violates any company/ employee rules . As I like my job its best that I keep it this way for now. As you know I never divulge company secrets ( I don't even know any of them ) all I try to do on this board is help the people that were good enough to buy one of our cars. To help them enjoy there M's just a little bit more and maybe answer any questions they may have on the LH car or plant. Every manufacture should have an employee like myself who on his own time tries to promote the product and company he works for. Hold on while I pat myself on the back , ouch that hurt.