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I did a crude job on both sides of the TB using some of the round sanding cylinders (part of my dremel's original kit). Course first, then finer. I cut off the tab keeping the throttle from opening all the way too.
The car is definately faster. I did not disconnect the battery to force a relearn. I wanted to see what would happen first.
When I stomp on the accelerator from a stop it will turn the tires over once or twice. Use to only chirp before.
When I stomp on it when going about 30-45 mph, like passing, oh my god, it really takes off.
I have a S&B cone filter with a 3 inch flex hose attached to the factory intake box. I removed the factory flex hose and resonator, but the other part is stock. It's mounted so the cold air hole and rubber boot are in place to force cold air into the top of the filter. It also still breathes the hot engine air.
I also have the Hujo dual exhaust. Gas mileage seems about the same, but I have been stomping it a bit, so the jury's still out on that.
I'm looking at the stock TB I have left over, and I am thinking about two things. One, getting it bored properly at a machine shop where the surface can be true and polished (dremel job I did is a little rough). Two, can I get the 68mm plate replaced with say a 70mm one for even more air flow? There's still plenty of aluminum left to grind.
I need to find a dyno shop a get this checked, I'm real curious what I have now in HP at the wheels. I'm also thinking about running a few 1/4 mile test runs at the local dragstrip on Friday night test and tune.
Any thoughts?
i then called chrysler who stated that the 300m is one of the cars under this statue to have the vin's in all these places.
i checked under the hood, and did not find the sticker. the only thing i have left to do is get myself additional tabs so that i can remove the silence pad and if the tabs break, i will have new ones to replace it.
chrysler also stated that car dealers cannot change hoods or other parts without violating the federal law.
onward with my investigation....
Basically you do the following:
Optional step would be to remove negative battery cable at jumper cable connection point, behind intake air resonator.
1) Remove plastic caps on wipers, unbolt and remove wipers (noting which is driver side and pass side)
2) Remove cowl (several torx screws) Note screws near window are longer. This comes off in two parts pass side first then drivers.
3) Remove strut tower brace. 8 bolts (4 bolts each side) plus long bolt just to drivers side above throttle body. These bolts are metric socket.
4) TB should be easy to get to now. Remove air intake hose and push back out of the way.
5) Disconnect TB Position Sensor connector and MAP sensor connector.
6) Open TB all the way and remove accel pedal and cruise control cables.
7) Remove three torx bolts that hold on TB.
8) Remove larger torx bolt in transmission support bracket.
9) Either loosen or remove lower two bolts in transmission support bracket (HARD) OR pry back the bracket a little and lift TB off the small dowel pins. It's the lower dowel pin that's hard to clear because of the tranny bracket.
10) TB should be removed now. Remove MAP sensor to avoid metal contamination (note position as to reinstall the same way). Position sensor looked sealed, so I left it on. Clean off grease and oil too at this point.
11) Use Dremel moto tool or have machine shop bore out the narrowed opening where the intake hose connects. I used course and finer sanding cylinders to have a smoother surface. Metal grinding bits were inconsistent. Narrowed area is about 62mm, throttle plate is 68mm, you want to get as close to 67-68mm as you can.
12) Bore out or smooth down the ridge on the other side of the TB. This step might not make much difference, but I wanted a smooth transition not a step off.
13) Cut off the tab that keeps the throttle plate from opening all the way. I used a little cutting wheel and the dremel. This is the same cutting wheel I used to make my dual exhaust fascia cutout.
14) Sand smooth using emery cloth.
15) Clean part free of any aluminum particles.
16) Reinstall MAP sensor.
17) Reinstall TB, again pry trans bracket to get back on over lower dowel pin.
18) Reconnect TP and MAP sensor connectors.
19) Reconnect accel and cruise control cables.
20) Reconnect Intake hose.
21) Reinstall strut brace
22) Reinstall Cowl (long screws near window)
23) Reinstall Wipers.
24) Test and have fun.
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9486000&p=48161429&f=0
If you use a high-quality, all-cotton applicator with any nylon seams cut off, there is no risk of scratching your finish. You might want to think about a clay treatment at this point before using the Zaino polish lock.
I saw, waaay back on this board, someone posted a picture of a custom hood scoop they designed for their 300M. Can these cars accept a forced air mod, or is a scoop like that just for looks?
To be honest, I have a 2002 Trans Am on order now. It's not due at the dealership until the end of June. I'm hoping the 300M will be just what I need and if it IS, I may like a 2002 model. Did anyone notice if Chrysler upgrades the engine in each year model? If so, maybe the 2002 will have more UMPH?
In reality I can't feel a difference in the '01. It still picks up and hauls its butt as fast as my '99 did.
Some think the number was just published lower because of states like California. Some think it was re-calculated. And some think that it just don't matter... I'm that one.
I doubt it will have more HP, but I also doubt they'll lower it again.
-m
Race's 300m
Race
http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=1280646&a=9976873&p=47449433&f=0
otto - Appreciate knowing our exhaust mod is not out of line with what Chrysler is planning. Now, can you score me a Tuner rear bumper? Based on my previous Dremel handiwork, I know my cutouts will leave something to be desired ;~)
sal@zainobros.com
they will tell you what to do, they have the best customer service!!!
'00 Stone White
As for the Zaino questions... The Zaino website indicates that the window polish has a mild abrasive in it for removing imperfections and gunk. I second the opinion that you should contact Sal with your question, but I also found another "window polish" that didn't seem to leave any scratches. Maybe it's finer abrasive. I'll have to get the name of it from home, since I'm at work now.
Here are pictures of Big Red, including views of her with Zaino, the clock face mod, and the exhaust mod.
Big Red Photo Albums
Here is a clip of my dual exhaust. Pardon the "shareware" black box"
-Mike
m hmm,
Race
I like the pics. That Zaino is good stuff isn't it? I'd never use anything else on my car. It's a bit more time consuming, but well worth it, I'd say
I too was acustomed to driving medium powered 4 cylinder and small 6 cylinder cars and was looking for something big, luxurious, powerful and a good value. A two-door two-seater wasn't an option for me (I know it has 4 seats, but they're not very practical) so the TA and Camaro weren't options. I looked at the Mitsu Diamante, Acura TL, Lexus ES300, Nissan Maxima, Infinity I30, Audi A4-6, VW Passat and about 5 or 6 others. They were all either too small (the M is huge inside) too expensive, underpowered, or had a marginal repair record. To me, and my needs, the M clearly had the best balance of these items...excelling in all of them. Just my opinion.
-Mike
Mike
Mike
LOVE that shine! ;-))
fastdriver
I was thinking, on the R/T board people talking about the tranny on the car said that it is parasitic, and someone brought up a good point, there is fluid between the plates in the torque converter, I am wondering if anyone here has loaded their tranny up with AMSOIL universal tranny fluid and if it improved shift quality or not.. Just a thought......
And tonight, I'm gonna look at how big of a job the throttle body will be, and after the TB is done, I will take a crack at making a nice cold air intake for it using a cone filter, I'm just gonna skip the K&N filter as it's never been enough of a change for me to warrant buying one..
Post 'em soon!
Check it out!
I put trans fluid temp gauges on my two old Pontiacs with Turbo 400 Automatics and saw about 50 deg F drop in temp overall and about 200 rpms less for the same cruising speed. It's harder to tell on todays cars, but on the old one's the difference was very obvious. I've always been of the opinion that the Amsoil Universal tranny fluid is the best product they make.
I've also had some experience and witnessed some other racer friends experiences with switching to the synthetic tranny fluid. Folks tearing up or losing transmissions every season or more often, suddenly stopped having the problems altogether. My GTO is still running strong after 5 seasons no tranny rebuild. Is it the fluid or coincidence? I believe in this fluid.
So go for it, and yes it is ATF+4 approved and then some.
Mike
also, anyone know where a diagram is online of how to get to the speedometer and stuff? i saw one of how the whole dash was peiced together but i dont remember where......
Aftermarket & Accessories:Reverse warning systems
so what did you do for the complete change
Easyrider300M
Ottowkr, any input here?
avalanche165 any updates on how this was done in 5 minutes by your bud?
Keith