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Big Red Hood
Here is the link to all my galleries for more pictures
Inside Big Red
Here's my pic: http://albums.photopoint.com/j/ViewPhoto?u=934019&a=7113867&p=37261992&f=0
I switched to a Dodge dealer nearby and they have at least tried to address difficult problems (ATC and left pull) after my 5* Chrysler dealer responded with typical "5* speak" like "operates within spec's and "can't repair crown in the road". They have had my "fleet" for the last several months and have done a good job on "normal" problems. It's just that there doesn't seem to be an accepted common diagnosis for this problem...
Although I'm 2000 miles away, and can not verify first-hand, by girlfriend's sebring sedan with Goodyear Eagle LS's is pulling after only 2 weeks of ownership.
I told her to go to the dealership and see the SA -- even to look up the problems with the 300M's and Goodyears on his computer.
I figure since it's very new they'll help her out without me getting urban and insistent.
-m
sdmike2--My Ziebart dealer here in KY will tint any way the customer wants, but he knows the state law on tinting, and if you go too dark has a waiver signed by the customer to cover himself if the police ask you to take the over-tint off. I don't know what he charges to remove the tint. Mine is the chrome on bottom 1/3 of all the windows [except the windshield], fading to grey and it looks cool and I think it has kept the interior cooler, but it is slightly prohibited by the state law because of its reflective nature, not the darkness of the tint. I am told that the bottom line here is that the police have better things to do than to write this up unless they stop you for something else. I have adjusted my speed accordingly. Anyway I have sent some photos to the Prez and he said he will post them when he gets them. They show both the spoiler and the tint.
I would just hate to buy 4 new Michelins and still have the problem...
... and on the '99 I used to have I replaced the Goodyears after 30000 miles with a set of 4 michelins. I probably had a little drift in the '99, but really never noticed it that much -- it went away, but so did the edges of the tires!
-m
;-)) SOME things NEVER change! DON'T wait like I did with Christine for 10 1/2 months to solve this problem. Go here-
http://www.goodyear.com/us/tires/car/consumer.html and deal directly with them. Tell them that you KNOW this is a COMMON problem with the LS tires on the 300 and that you would like them to contact your local authorized Goodyear tire dealer(have the telephone number ready)to have them check it out. That's what I did. In 2 days, I had 4 brand new tires put on for ZIP at 11,000 miles! The tires are warranteed by Goodyear, NOT Chrysler. My TWO "award winning 5-STAR" dealers NEVER even MENTIONED the word tires! All they said was the same of s___- crown in the road, characteristic of the car, they all do that etc.! FUNNY how the crown in the road doesn't affect my new car OR any of my other cars BEFORE Christine. Same roads, same crown! Does this get my blood boiling to hear them TRYINMG to pull the same old crap. What do they say- an educated consumer.......
Just trying to save you MONTHS of aggravation! I know I tried to help before and that didn't work out, but this will!
fastdriver
I will be changing brands but I'd like to stay with a stock size tire unless someone can convince me otherwise. I don't have unlimited funds but I'd be willing to pay a little more to know I have a "great tire".
So, I'd like to hear from you 99 model year folks who installed other brand tires on the 17" razorstars and list your tire brand, size and experiences good & bad, roadnoise, etc. with them in comparison to the OEM Goodyears.
Thanks,
Rick
http://www.michelin.com/us/eng/tire/catalog/energy_mxv4p.htm
Quiet and stuck to the road well. I liked them leaps and bounds over the Goodyears.
-m
Well, anything else new here lately?
Otto- Any more news on the 2002 300M? Any more added features? Where does the new tire pressure monitor read on the dash?
Now that I know what car I want
what CASH price SHOULD I pay:
'01, Luxury, chrome wheels/Michelins, full
spare w/chrome wheel, upgraded 4CD,
sunroof, side airbags - Inferno Red w/Agate
(I don't smoke and I'll make my wife warm up
the battery and engine on those cold nights! ;-))
Spyboy
Told hubby should just go and buy new tires but checked them out $820.00 for the least expensive.
Pirelli claims they don't have tires that fit even though their web site says they do?????
Looking at Michelins somethings Z4's. Hubby says no way, this going on for months, just turned 20000 miles. So I'll let you know how my 5* dealer handles it here in California. Hopefully they will do the right thing.
If you have the 17" wheels (non-PHP) you don't need "Z" rated tires...go with "H" or "V" speed rating.
You should be able to get a very good performance touring tire for $125-$150 each.
Tire Rack (tirerack.com) lists the Michelin Energy MXV4 Plus for $138.00 each in your 225/55 R17 size.
The Michelin brand has received good reports on this board for the 300M.
I had Michelin MXV4s on my '99 300M and was very satisfied with them. My '01 300M has Michelin Pilot MXM V4 tires and they have been great to date (9,500 miles)
Good luck!
I don't think you would want to know what Chrysler would charge for an '01 wood trimmed steering wheel!
Mine is on the inside, single piece on the back window. 35 on the front side windows and 12 on the back and rear side windows.
hey i finally figured out how to put a pic of my car in the photo gallery, i think everyone should do that
300M Worksheet
Speaking of which I took a look at it, boy do I need to get busy and do some adding and editing. I guess I will have to choose between mods on my car or keeping my pages up to date:)
also recommends inspection of "engine air cleaner and air pump filters"--what are air pump filters? didnt know the M had air pumps?
I never bring the M in to the 3* for oil changes--I get that done at the Speedy Muffler shop for around $12--who knows what other probs the dealer will drum up to raise his bill
After bringing the M in for the tranny fluid change (they only changed 5 quarts in the pan) at 15K for $100 and discovering that they put in atf 3 instead of atf 4 as recommended in manual, I have lost all faith in bringing it in to the dealer for maintenance service--next tranny change, I think I'm going the Amsoil route--
anyone do the recommended differential fluid change--I thought the diffential and tranny shared the same fluid--does anyone know for sure if they share the fluid-
Finally had my front bumper cover resecured--(tore it off backing up off a concrete parking bumper)--a body shop suggested I buy a new one and have it painted--after repainting the cover on my last car (Mark VIII) and seeing how easily it chips I decided to try to repair the cover that was pulled away. Found someone who did a 95% perfect job for $35. You can barely notice the difference. No need for repainting. Moral of the story: be careful when parking where there are those concrete bumpers--the airdam on the M is very low and can easily get caught behind that concrete bumper--I speak from experience.
Happy M'ing
Easyrider300M
The service manual nevers says to change the diff fluid for schedule A. Schedule B says to do it at 45K and 90K.
A note about synthetic gear lubes should be avoided for the differential is listed no page 21-2. Not sure what that's about. I've used Amsoil Synthetic 75W-90 with mineral/fish oil additives in the past with no problems. Most RWD Limited Slips have an additive for keeping the clutches working and quiet. All the RWD vehicles I've had have required 80W-90 Gear lube and an additive. I have put Amsoil 75W-90 Gear oil in with the little 4-6oz additive and it always been fine. I was planning to change my 300's diff in the same fashion, and just have not gotten around to it.
Does anyone know if Chrysler puts an additive in the 75W-90 lube or if it's part of their hypoid gear lube?
Anyone tried a synthetic in their differential yet?
In the 99 Service Manual has some charts of the shift points. The manual talks about upshifts, kickdowns, and coastdowns. Here's the basic chart:
On page 21-9
Automatic Shifts will occur under the following conditions
Type of Shift Shift Point
4-3 coast downshift 13 mph
3-2 coast downshift 9 mph
2-1 coast downshift 5 mph
1-2 upshift 6600 RPM
2-3 upshift 6600 RPM
4-3 kickdown shift 13-47 w/sufficient throttle
13 mph, 9mph 5 mph seem kinda low to me?
Another chart on page 21-5 talks about delays in normal shift point based on fluid temp. Interestingly below -16F it won't go any further than 2nd gear to protect the clutches.
At temps below 36 deg F it starts to delay upshifts, early coastdown shifts, and high speed kickdown shifts are disabled. Similar programming for when fluid gets too hot as well.
Delayed 2-3 upshift is defined as 22-31 mph
Delayed 3-4 upshift is defined as 45-53 mph
Early 4-3 coastdown is defined as 30 mph
Early 3-2 coastdown is defined as 17 mph
I do not see what the normal temp shift points are, but the delayed and early one indicate that the tranny stays in high gear unless you really slowdown. To do anything else probably requires "adequate throttle" to force a kickdown to the gear we would expect the car to be in below 30mph.
I thought this might explain some of the erradic shift characteristics and the bump shift.
I probably SHOULD have mentioned that I was in contact with Goodyear from the very BEGINNING with the left drift on Christine- like maybe several weeks after I got the car in June of 1998. They called me the very next day after I sent the e-mail to them and said that if there was a problem with the tires they would replace them. I told them that Chrysler was "working" on the problem. Goodyear told me to keep them informed. I wanted to give the "5-STAR" dealers every chance possible to fix the problem. Didn't want to start off on the wrong foot with them. They balanced, they rotated, they balanced, they rotated, they did the TSB engine shift thing, they replaced the rack and pinion steering- NOTHING made a difference. The difference came when I decided enough was enough and that I had been patient enough after 10 1/2 months and called Goodyear and had them set up an appointment with the local Goodyear dealer. When the 4 tires were replaced, the problem was gone! The crown in the road had NO affect on the new tires! Went as straight as an arrow after that! Before spending a ton of money for new tires, I'd give this one last shot. I'm sure intrepidspirit has already wasted time with this problem as it is. What's a few more days? Could save some bucks.
Just my $.02 after personal experience!
fastdriver
im glad u think it looks okay, i like it, kinda simple but good enough for me!