Any ideas on how to get the a/c ice cold again before the warm weather. I replaced the dryer and its full of refrigerant, should I have it drained and refilled. And the brakes seem to flutter when I step on the pedal. Sometimes I have to push extra hard and sometimes it goes down kinda far. Any suggestions would be appreciated ...thanx
I have a 2000 300M...I'm experiencing a hestitation which feels like a jitter (unbalanced tires) in the front end while going up hill at a constant speed between 35-45 MPH. I've had the tires balanced and new plugs installed. What could be the cause??? Struts? Transmition? Tie Rods?
Earlier I mentioned that my front Infinity speakers just didn't work. So I went and purchased some replacement door speakers, thinking that I'll do the tweeters and dash l8tr.
After I buy them and had them installed, I jump in my car ready to blast a CD...when all I hear from the front door panels are the lows/base! Seemingly, Chrysler has the system rigged so that base only emits from the panels and highs/meds. from the tweeters??? That's what I'm told, and I'm rather pissed because I would have replaced the tweeters first! Or waited, and gotten them both done at once...
I have my 2005 300 touring for a little over a year and have had many trips to the garage for the car missing and the engine light going on. The problem is due to carbon build up in the cylinders and on the valves. The heads have been redone twice now and Chrysler is refusing to do anything about this lemon.
hello, i have 150k on my 300m,its been a great car with minor work ,just maintain the services,i have noticed the startup rattle and just to let everyone know its the powerst.pump not the eng,ive read alot of these postings and laf,please get it checked out im just trying to help.so far its always been a awsome car,also been using amsoil in the eng and trani and no problems..ty for your time.
Have had my speakers replaced by Chrysler as I am under warranty. It is a year 2000 - 300M. Speakers sound as though tweeters are vibrating or have a bee sound ( best analogy I can come up with ). Dealer has been helpful by putting in new speakers but problem still exists. Not all stations or songs. AM is the pits. Happens on some CD's and tapes as well. Service Mgr. said it is found in Jeeps as well. If speakers were bad it would happen all the time which it does not. Anyone have this problem or know of a fix. Could it be that the sound system is just very good and highlights the junk on the various media formats? Thanks.
Sounds familiar--replacement didn't really help. I'm sure it's issues in the door ---- window channels and various hardware and not the speakers as such. May ask to have the door innerds exposed, tightened and taped [ t&t'ed] but chancey because it could end up worse.
It's not the speakers, it's the amp in the trunk. Have the dealer switch it out with the (I believe) "D" or "F" model.
I had the same problem. Did some research and found out it was the amp. Had the dealer change to the updated amp and the problem has been gone ever since.
Thanks for the reply. Spoke to my serv. mgr. before I read this. He did not seem to be aware if my 2000M had amp in trunk. Only had the car about 4 mos. so this may be a silly question but do all 2000's have amp in the trunk?
Second, would you provide dealer name and contact in the event my serv. mgr wants to speak to him? If you solved the problem I am pretty sure he'll want to speak to him. Also, it does not happen on all the time. In fact most of the time system is excellent. My last visit ended in "that's as good as it gets". Thanks for your help.Hope I can be of help to you in the future. Other than this issue, the car is mint & great
Yes, all 300Ms have the amp in the trunk on the passenger side behind the liner.
I can't give you a dealer contact to help out. Seems like most of them will pretend to not know what the problem is just to avoid the warranty work. I had to find the info myself in this forum and the other official 300M forum.
I am new to this site. I have just purchased a 2001 300M and am having problems with engine going dead when I am slowing or stopping. It will usually start up immediately when I shift into neutral but this is scary because I lose my power steering. I have taken it in for "intake kit" and stp for gas tank. Used a higher octane, and also something on the idler. Any suggestions.
How many miles are on it? You might want to have a full tune-up. (PCV valve, fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs, and clean [inside] the throttle body and intake manifold.)
If you're crafty with a set of tools, you can do all of that yourself, but you'd probably have to take it to a shop to have the throttle body and intake cleaned.
First, thanks for all the help and suggestions. I love my 2000 300M and have only the window issues, until now. I've read quite a bit and I'm still not sure what the problem is with mine. The car will hesitate or run poorly intermittently, meaning randomly every few days but only for a few seconds. Then, yesterday, when about 3 miles from home, first drive of the day before it was to running temp, it hesitated, sounded starved for gas, then died. I put some gas in since it was low (1/8 left). I've never had a problem on trips when fuel gets low, but it started later, about 10 minutes or so. This is usually when just starting it in the morning but not sure of the common thread of conditions. I am good about keeping lots of gas for many reasons, but yesterday, it was lower than usual. I live in Austin on a hilly apt complex so I was thinking fuel issues possibly related to debris or poor uptake from pump, etc. Took it to a reliable shop but they said there's no fuel filter, only a screen with the fuel pump assembly. I replaced the pump on my '93 eagle vision and it was pretty easy, with no other problems. I don't think the whole pump needs to be replaced since it still works (drove it to the shop). I can't really afford to pay out of pocket to replace 10 parts just to get a diagnosis, since I have no warranty. Anyone have an idea? PCV? O2 sensor? cam/crank sensor?
I am havin problems with the a/c now and would like to solve the problem asap.I changed the dryer and it still aint gettin cold. On a hot day u can't feel nothin. And as far as the brakes...ok on the rotors but now the brakes feel real hard...like I need 2 feet to stop I'll try changing the fluid but any other suggestions
Hi everyone. First timer here and I'm so glad to find this forum. I purchased a 2000 300M on Monday as a surprise for my husband who is away on business. As I was driving it home from work tonight, the clock, radio and CD lights (the blue illumination part) went out. It did not come back on like some of the other posts have mentioned. Is this a fuse issue or something else. I'm really bumming because this car was replacing an old beat-up car my husband had borrowed from his brother.
Thank you for responding. ALSO...my CD player is skipping. Anyone else have this problem or have any idea how much it costs to fix and/or replace??? :surprise:
Just buy a new set of HID headlight assemblies, and apply some thin 3M plastic on them, like I did. Or at least buy a new set of halogen reflector housings. Don't bother with trying to make the old look new.
I had bought a set of the headlight protectors a while ago, only applied them to my fogs, and found they were much too thick. The 4mil 3M plastic stuff is just fine. I used the headlight pattern (plastic cutout) as a base for the slightly larger set I applied to my headlights. It should be easy enough to make your own pattern; the lenses are relatively flat. Buy bulk plastic at xpel.
$23 for the caps sounds about what they were paying a couple of years back. That is stiff for a simple chrome circle, but I know the 300M emblems are about $25 each so they get you big on the repair parts. I had good luck with a couple of Internet DC dealers, like 20-30% under my local guy on parts. Wyckoff Chrysler is one and McKenny Dodge was another that had good prices. I think they are still both on the net.
Scott-- Is it possible to get inside the headlight housing since I have moisture on the lens in there from when the welt failed? They replaced the welt, but I don't think they cleaned the lens on the inside or else it just is allowing moisture to form in there. I thought about trying to get in there, but wondered if you had an idea if it was possible or worth while to try. The new light housing off the net is $155. :shades:
I just purchased some HID lights for a 99 300M that I want to install, is there a manual I can download on how to install them because it looks as if I have to take several things out to get the the lights
My driver and passenger side windows came off track on my 99 300M , and I took it to a shop who told me I needed new windows because there is an adhesive at the end of the new window which holds it in place. I believe this is a lie and they just want the money because I believe there are just some broken clips. I want to here anyone elses opinion on this
The normal problem has been the failure of one or both clips at each end of the window. I thought that was the problem on my 99M a couple of weeks ago, but when they opened up the door area the tech said it was the window regulator. The service advisor originally suggested that it was probably just one of the clips breaking. When they took me out to look at the problem it looked to me like a X scissor type piece was loose when it should not have been. I trust these guys so I told em to fix it. Cost me $212 to repair with $135 for the part. I am sure the part could be had elsewhere for about $35 less than what my dealer charged. The clips I do not know if one was broken or not also, but they did silicone something because they told me not to open the window for a day, to give it time to set. :shades:
I have a 2002 300M that has been a great car. However, during the winter some critters took up residence under the lower intake manifold over one weekend. The little buggers chewed up the wires for the anti-knock sensor and left a bunch of debris, mulch, insulation, other shredded crap. A major pain to change as I had to pull the upper plenum, the fuel rails and the lower intake manifold. Then the sensor is just under the overhang of the head so you need a crowsfoot to get to it. Anyways beware of critters under the hood. Not always gremlins, sometimes just mother nature.
The only other real problem I have had is the over head menu display has died and now the environmental control display has died too. The controls still work but you can't read any display.
If anyone has any experience with this problem, let me know how you fixed it and about what it cost. Thanks.
By the way I have over 140k of hiway driving and I got 90k+ on my original Firestone tires with no problems.
1999 Chrysler 300M- Here's what doesnt work... power door locks, dome lights, clock, power mirrors, power trunk release. My stereo didnt work but I had it put on its own fuse line by itself so now it does. Everytime I try my lock/unlock button on my key ring and when I start the car, the horn honks. There is a fuse out but everytime a new one is put in, it blows right away. Ive tried up to a 30amp in that 10amp fuse and it still wont hold.ANY HELP??? Or has anyone experienced this also?
i cant explain it very well but i know how to do it so, bare with me... 1) your back seat just pops up if you pull hard enough. 2) there are 2 bolts, one on either side that need to be removed. 3) you need to push up on the seat backs or use a mallet to tap the frame up and off, its on a hook. 4) then you rear deck carpet will just lift up Sorry, im not a pro and dont have the right terminology but i hope i helped you a little. Good Luck!
I started getting morning lifter noise when I converted to 10 -30 Mobil 1 and hadn't had any problem until then. I flushed the motor and tried Mobil 1 again. Same problem occured again. Went to Castrol Syntec 5-50 summer, 5-30 winter and K&N oil filter. Bad lifter sound went away and hasn't come back. While Mobil 1 is more highly rated and is a Category 4 oil versus Castrol being Category 3, my experience is that Castrol Synthetic is better in real life. The Fram Tough Guard has a plastic valve to keep the oil from flowing back to the pan and cardboard pieces holding the filter in place at the ends. The K & N, and Mobil 1 filters made by Champion are of superior materials and build. the K & N has superior oil flow. Purolator also makes good quality filters. Chrysler recommends 10-30, but allows for 5-30 in the winter. I think the lighter oil moves faster through the engine when starting cold and may be a better choice especially if running synthetic oil.
There have been some previous messages about this. Can't remember if it was here or on the LHS discussion group. I had foggy headlights (fine pits in the plastic).I used very fine sandpaper - I beleive it was 1000 followed by 1500 grit and wet sanded the plastic. Followed up with a compound then a polish. Made an improvement. I do notice I need to repolish once in a while. It seems there is a slight dulling (very fine scratches?) in the plastic from the sandpapaer. The polish seems to cover them up. Not sure if there is a better way to get rid of these fine scratches?
In the past twelve months I've replaced my battery twice. First time it went dead, was told that I had a short circuit in the dash that was draining the battery. After a $900.00 repair which included a new battery, the car ran fine for six months. Friday morning, I again experienced a dead battery. Return car to same garage and after several hours was told that Body Control Module was bad. I was charged $1400 to replace the BCM, the actuator in the driver's door and the window switches in my rear doors. I find it hard to believe that a faulty BCM would cause my battery to go dead in six months. By the way, where is the BCM located? I'd like to make sure they in fact replace this computer HELP!!
I just ordered a fan shroud kit unit with both fans off eBay for $127 total. It appears it is held by two bolts on each side and a clip at the top and bottom. I opened it from the top --about 8-10 bolts/screws. So far pretty easy. The cost at Pep Boys for the unit which has both fans is $299. I will post again after I finish so that it may help someone else. roger
My 2000 model with 65,000+ miles on it has developed a clunk noise in the front end on the right side when I make a sudden stop. What is causing it and how is it repaired? I suppose it will cost a few bucks. The car has been almost trouble free all these years so I guess I can't complain.
Comments
Earlier I mentioned that my front Infinity speakers just didn't work. So I went and purchased some replacement door speakers, thinking that I'll do the tweeters and dash l8tr.
After I buy them and had them installed, I jump in my car ready to blast a CD...when all I hear from the front door panels are the lows/base! Seemingly, Chrysler has the system rigged so that base only emits from the panels and highs/meds. from the tweeters??? That's what I'm told, and I'm rather pissed because I would have replaced the tweeters first! Or waited, and gotten them both done at once...
Your rotors are warped and need to be resurfaced. And your brake fluid needs to be changed.
jonathan
I had the same problem. Did some research and found out it was the amp. Had the dealer change to the updated amp and the problem has been gone ever since.
Thanks for the reply. Spoke to my serv. mgr. before I read this. He did not seem to be aware if my 2000M had amp in trunk. Only had the car about 4 mos. so this may be a silly question but do all 2000's have amp in the trunk?
Second, would you provide dealer name and contact in the event my serv. mgr wants to speak to him? If you solved the problem I am pretty sure he'll want to speak to him.
Also, it does not happen on all the time. In fact most of the time system is excellent. My last visit ended in "that's as good as it gets". Thanks for your help.Hope I can be of help to you in the future. Other than this issue, the car is mint & great
I can't give you a dealer contact to help out. Seems like most of them will pretend to not know what the problem is just to avoid the warranty work. I had to find the info myself in this forum and the other official 300M forum.
If you're crafty with a set of tools, you can do all of that yourself, but you'd probably have to take it to a shop to have the throttle body and intake cleaned.
The car will hesitate or run poorly intermittently, meaning randomly every few days but only for a few seconds. Then, yesterday, when about 3 miles from home, first drive of the day before it was to running temp, it hesitated, sounded starved for gas, then died. I put some gas in since it was low (1/8 left). I've never had a problem on trips when fuel gets low, but it started later, about 10 minutes or so. This is usually when just starting it in the morning but not sure of the common thread of conditions. I am good about keeping lots of gas for many reasons, but yesterday, it was lower than usual. I live in Austin on a hilly apt complex so I was thinking fuel issues possibly related to debris or poor uptake from pump, etc. Took it to a reliable shop but they said there's no fuel filter, only a screen with the fuel pump assembly. I replaced the pump on my '93 eagle vision and it was pretty easy, with no other problems. I don't think the whole pump needs to be replaced since it still works (drove it to the shop).
I can't really afford to pay out of pocket to replace 10 parts just to get a diagnosis, since I have no warranty.
Anyone have an idea? PCV? O2 sensor? cam/crank sensor?
http://public.fotki.com/Scotian/300m/lighting/hids/
I had bought a set of the headlight protectors a while ago, only applied them to my fogs, and found they were much too thick. The 4mil 3M plastic stuff is just fine. I used the headlight pattern (plastic cutout) as a base for the slightly larger set I applied to my headlights. It should be easy enough to make your own pattern; the lenses are relatively flat. Buy bulk plastic at xpel.
Scott-- Is it possible to get inside the headlight housing since I have moisture on the lens in there from when the welt failed? They replaced the welt, but I don't think they cleaned the lens on the inside or else it just is allowing moisture to form in there. I thought about trying to get in there, but wondered if you had an idea if it was possible or worth while to try. The new light housing off the net is $155. :shades:
The only other real problem I have had is the over head menu display has died and now the environmental control display has died too. The controls still work but you can't read any display.
If anyone has any experience with this problem, let me know how you fixed it and about what it cost. Thanks.
By the way I have over 140k of hiway driving and I got 90k+ on my original Firestone tires with no problems.
Sorry, im not a pro and dont have the right terminology but i hope i helped you a little. Good Luck!
I find it hard to believe that a faulty BCM would cause my battery to go dead in six months. By the way, where is the BCM located? I'd like to make sure they in fact replace this computer HELP!!
I opened it from the top --about 8-10 bolts/screws. So far pretty easy. The cost at Pep Boys for the unit which has both fans is $299. I will post again after I finish so that it may help someone else. roger