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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    It might be covered under warranty, depending on your mileage. But they're going to tell you they can't find a problem until your warranty is up. Once you're out of warranty and have to pay for the repair yourself, they'll tell you exactly what's wrong and bend you over with a repair bill for parts, labor and diagnostic fees.

    That's the main reason why I haven't taken mine in. I just can't stand being lied to, and I know they can probably fix whatever it is with a simple computer reflash.
  • atl300matl300m Posts: 1
    My 91,000 mile 1999 300M just got back from the shop after getting a rebuilt transmission. The car works great now except the power seats and locks are not functioning. I changed out the fuse but still no dice. The mechanic who installed the trans. claims the issue is unrelated, but I still think they are. Any thoughts/suggestions?
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    I've been hearing a clicking noise from the driver side door area. Intermittent and infrequent but very annoying. Could be from the speaker but no distortion or buzzing. There is no cadence --- tic-tic-----tic tic and then it stops. Anyone have this and get it fixed?
  • cat38skipcat38skip Posts: 1
    I had an Engine Check Light come on on my 2002 300M Special. Seems it was low trans fluid. I took care of the problem, fixed the leak (cooling line connections at the radiator) .. Now ... how do I reset the light ??????
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    The dealer has to reset it, I believe. Or you can try the ol' disconnect the battery for 30 minutes trick.
  • newbee5newbee5 Posts: 1
    Hi, I am glad to find this forum i am planning to buy a 2001 300M Around 60000 miles on it please let me know what i should consider before buying.


  • taki3taki3 Posts: 18
    My wifes 99 300M had the same problem a year ago...I was able to purchase replacement radiator fans on ebay for $130...that, and a couple hours time and I was able to do it myself...i also have a Chiltons or Haynes maintenance manual that i bought at the local parts shop...
  • I have a '99 300M and when I turn it hard I get a large thump. I have had it checked and they found nothing. The thump comes from under the front fender welds. I am thinking possibly the strut mounts, maybe. What do you think? Please reply. Thanks.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    The noise is related to a malfunctioning automatic headlight switch or relay. Happens only during the day. Saw a reflection in the rear of a car in front at a light. Clicking was the lights going on and off. Dealer appointment next week.
  • lbj52lbj52 Posts: 6
    Anyone had a problem with interior lights which will just flash on and off quickly for 2 or 3 times every few days or sometimes weekly. My car is a '99 Chrysler. The problem never repeats itself when I am at a mechanics' of course. I also am having the problem with the no start issue. I'm going to request a check/replacement of the relays and ignition switch mentioned earlier. The entire wiring harness was replaced about 10 mos. ago, but that was only a temporary solution.
  • hjljhjlj Posts: 1
    My daughters 2002 Chrysler 300M has also developed the problem with the interior flashing lights. It has done it twice so far. She has also had the check engine light come on also. It eventually goes out. Have not been to a dealer yet to have it checked out.
  • mikey13mikey13 Posts: 2
    Hi new here hope someone can help. My son recentely bought a 99 300M and for 3 months no problems. We took a 4 hour trip with highway speeds ranging from 80 km to 140 km, most of trip was 130 on cruise. On way back at about 120 car began to starve for gas and stalled. After about 10 min. and several attempts to prime with fuel pump it started and with a few revs returned to normal, I thought hot day maybe a vacuum lock in fuel line. It has since happened twice more within week. I do not want to waste time and money on intermittent problem that dealer says doesn't exist. I have a feeling others have had this problem. My son expects me to fix and or dagnose, lol so please help.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926

    Preliminary checks,
    1) Fuel filter
    1.5) Air filter
    2) Spark plugs
    3) PCV valve
    4) Fuel pump
    5) Fuel injectors
    6) Key transponder/ignition receiver (<--very long shot with those)
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Quite a few folks have had this problem and since fixed it. Tell your daughter to fret not. Do a search in this forum for the phrase "light show" and therein ye shall find the solution. ;-)
  • mikey13mikey13 Posts: 2
    Thanks tayl0rd for the info. Bought the Haynes service manual and holy crap 9 to 11 pages of error codes, I am an old hand at fixing cars from my era 60 and 70's but some of these new ones leave little area left for the home mechanic. Anyway for a week no more stalling problem, so status quo for now, But I expect it will happen again.
  • mseningenmseningen Posts: 27
    $150 each on EBAY -- did my 99 about 1.5yrs ago -- not easy but doable by yourself.

  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Knock on wood, I have not had this opaquing of the headlight lenses on my 99. I put on Stongard lens protectors when I first got the car almost 7 years ago, so that may explain the difference. Anyway, I walked past two DI's in a parking lot today and lo and behold both of them had headlight lenses that were so cloudy one could hardly see through them. Geez, what a rip to have to replace the whole unit instead of just the lens. Should have been a TSB issue on them. :shades:
  • magn45magn45 Posts: 3
    Yes it was,,,So far so good with it holding up. I know it's no where the quality of the infinity speaker, but it sounds good so far.
  • matty8744matty8744 Posts: 4
    :cry: with no ac its not cooling, i bought the car in february,cooled for may and june now wont cool
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Just refill the r134a refrigerant and you should be back in business. Do you hear the compressor activate when you turn on the A/C? If so, you just need to refill the refrigerant and be on your way. Also, if the compressor is still working, you need to stop trying to use the A/C until you get it refilled; otherwise you will cause it to seize because the refrigerant also oils the compressor and seals, etc.

    You can take it to a mechanic and get ripped off for $100+ or you can do it yourself for less than $30. The refrigerant is relatively inexpensive. It's the filler hose that'll cost ya.
  • matty8744matty8744 Posts: 4
    thank you very much for the response gonna give it a try
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    You're welcome. ;)

    One thing I forgot to mention; you need to turn that little can of refrigerant upside down in order for it to flow into the compressor.
  • matty8744matty8744 Posts: 4
    hahahahahaha funny you said that the kit i bought at wallmart was 26 bucks,on the box said hold upright on the can it said turn upsidedown anyway the car is cooler now one more thing should the pressure be checked with the valve closed on the can?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I don't believe it matters much. I don't think the refrigerant is under much pressure, if any, in the can. That's why you have to turn it upside down, so the vacuum of the compressor can suck the refrigerant in. It's not forced in under pressure.
  • gtrentgtrent Posts: 1
    We purchased our 99 300M new and for the past 3+ years we have had an intermittent light difficulty.
    During daylight
    -With no warning, all interior dashboard lights, radio lights etc dim as though the
    head lights were being turned on, with a clicking noise of headlights being turned on.
    All this regardless of being still, parked, moving, hitting road bumps, turning the wheel. In other words, no obvious pattern exists.
    -In fact, the headlights are flashing on and off in an intermittent, irregular rhythm.
    -Adjusting the light reastat and switching from auto to off, appears to have no impact
    -Sometimes when the car is in the garage, the lights come on in this same erratic, irregular fashion. (have video)
    -Local dealer is unaware(?) of this being a 300M problem and cannot duplicate it.
    Is this what I have read as the "light show"?
    -Is this a risk for damage, particularly electrical fire?
    -Can this be permanently fixed and how?
  • matty8744matty8744 Posts: 4
    i am getting a rattle in the front end brought it to the garage everything checks out ok.It doesnt happen all the time only a small bump in the road sets it off then it seems to go away :mad:
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The rattle may be caused by worn front sway bar bushings. I had a clunk or rattle when going over bumps, the bushings were replaced and it is now fine.
  • tiffsdadtiffsdad Posts: 2
    I too had this problem on my '03 M. The dealer replaced the headlight switch and the problem is gone. Hope this helps.
  • tiffsdadtiffsdad Posts: 2
    Actually the pressure differance between the can and and the system is what forces the 134 into the system. The pressure in the can is based on temperture. That is why as the can gets cold it flows into the system slower. I put the can into a bowl of warm, not hot, water to help keep the pressure up. As to right side up or upside down? If the can is right side up you are putting in vapor, if it is upside down you are putting in liquid. Compressors compress vapor, not liquid. They can handle some but putting all liquid can cause compressor damage. If you can not tell what your compressor is telling you by how it sounds, play it safe and keep you can upright.
  • I have have the exact same problems with erratic dashboard light shows in my 1999 300M and fear the same risks. This week the dashboard has been going crazy for several days in a row. It's been exceedingly hot and humid, both of which can have affects on electrical systems. Do you also have headlights where moisture collects on the inside? Have you heard any suggestions on the cause of OUR problem???
  • krista_ckrista_c Posts: 3
    Hello all! Last week I purchased a used 1999 Chrysler 300m. I absolutely love it. but...I noticed last night, as I was backing out of my driveway that the gear shift sticks when going from park to reverse. I can get in reverse, but it's hard to do. Once past reverse the gear shift moves just fine.

    Just wondering if anyone else has had this problem, and my even bigger wonder is did I buy someone elses headache?

    Any advice would be appreciated!
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    Need to replace gearshift cable. Common problem. Cable costs around $80-90. I changed mine myself, but you need instructions and should be pretty good with the wrenches before you try it.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Do you park on an incline (hill)? That will make it hard to go into reverse, especially on a front wheel drive vehicle.
  • Of course that dawned on me shortly after I posted my question :) Yes, I do park on an incline. Yesterday, I decided to test it out on a flat surface, when I put the car in reverse (I was in my driveway, on an incline) it didn't stick at all. I drove out to the street, where it is flat and tried it out. Sometimes it stuck, sometimes it didn't...
  • That sounds to be a simple enough fix. Though it would not be me fixing it. Unfortunately, I am not very mechanically inclined.

    Thank you for the advice.
  • gthebodgthebod Posts: 2
    I also have a 99 300M. We had the same problem, and only when we turned hard in one direction. It turned out to the the lower control arm. It has a bushing on it that wears out. Hope this helps.
  • gthebodgthebod Posts: 2
    I noticed this when we first purchased the car. (it was used with 45k miles on it) It also always pulled to the right. After many alignments, nothing seemed to fix it until I put on a new set of goodyear LS tires (tires on the car needed changing anyways.) When I drove it home from the shop it was like night and day. The car tracked perfectly and no vibration. Then after the season's change and the tires lost a little pressure, a slight vibration can be felt at speed. Keeping the tires properly inflated keeps this from coming back.
  • masivmasiv Posts: 1
    Have had my '99M for almost 3 years now. Great car. recently I have been having problems with my power windows. What usually happens is that I roll any number of windows down and then all just stop responding. No up, no down. I am thinking it is a relay problem. They will work fine for a few days and then it breaks again. Usually waiting a little while fixes the problem. One thing I noticed is that the fuse/breaker get really hot.

    Windows are currently stuck down, swapping fuse/relay didn't fix. It never affects just one window, it's always all 4.

    Anyone have an idea what this could be?
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    The window motors you are having intermittant problems with are made in Japan by Nipendeso (sp?). Some other site mentioned if you take the door panels off and spray the motors commutator area with contact cleaner they will work fine. Its worth a try
  • This is my 1st. post on this board, I'm glad I found it!. I have a '00 300m with 152,000
    miles on it . I now have a cooling system full of tranny fluid , but no coolant in the tranny,
    I think the line in radiator has broke. Has any one else had this problem???. My wife bought a new radiator local, I see there is a koyo & samsung radiator which one is correct?, or are they both the same?. I have not seen it yet, (this weekends project.)
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    If you have a full transmission radiator but an empty transmission case, the line isn't broken, it's blocked.
  • cjenkscjenks Posts: 1
    I have a '99 300M that stops after consistent speed rate is broken. Sometimes it restarts in 10-15 minutes and sometimes it will not start for 10-15 days. The 1st few times it stalled, I had a check engine light on. Took car in and got sensors replaced. Then it continued to stop with no check engine alert and upon being checked, no problems were found. But shortly after, the car stalled and stopped again. Has anyone had this problem and can offer any remedy please??
  • My 2001 300M has developed a shimmy. It started with braking, and now shimmies under acceleration from about 45 to 55 mph. Rides smoothly above about 55. The braking problem feels like rotors. Can rotor problems cause the shimmy during acceleration?

    I have been through rotation and balancing. I know I need to check for broken steel belts in tires.

  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
  • Thanks for the reply. The besides balancing and bad radial belts, what can cause it? The 'balancing' mechanic says I need an alignment, with a kit that costs $186.00 total for the alignment. Can alignment problems cause the shimmy? Is this price about right for the alignment? The car has about 49,000 miles.

  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    Alignment wouldn't cause a shimmy. If it only occurs during aceleration it may be a driveline component, or possibly an engine or transmission problem. I'd take it to a Chrysler dealer if you haven't already.
  • 300mess300mess Posts: 4
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Danny-- I have had my M for over 7 years now. I am real easy on the brakes [and do a lot of downshifting with the autostick]. Despite this practice, and the fact I always loosen and re-torque the lugnuts by hand after tire rotation, I have still had to have the rotors turned about every 35K miles. I would say try turning the rotors and have them also touch up the pads if they are still ok, and that should take care of any shimmy while decelerating. Now, on the acceleration shimmy, I don't know enough about front end parts and their interaction to say tie-rods, alignment, or anything else, so I am no help there. I've never had anything done to my front end, knock on wood. :shades:
  • 300mess300mess Posts: 4
    Recently someone suggested that if i wanted to locate any hidden signs of physical body damage that could possibly be hidden under my car's new exterior finish - all i had to do was take a common household fridge "MAGNET" and carefully run it over every inch of the my car's auto exterior... If the "MAGNET" forcefully clings to any area of the car's exterior panels - it's a clear indication that there's steel (as expected) beneath the layers of paint which is what you're hoping to find. However, if the magnet comes across areas on the car where it has no "cling" to a particular section, so much so that if you tried to let go of the "MAGNET" in that specific area, it would just fall straight to the car instead of "clinging" like it had in desirable areas constructed of steel - this clearly indicates that body filler or some other plastic derivative has been used to "re-shape" or "repair" physical damage (most likely as a result of a prior collision.) :confuse:

    But what does it mean when the "MAGNET" doesn't fall to the ground when you let it go but only "gently" clings to certain outer areas of the body (unlike the intense "pull" that is evident when the "MAGNET" comes in contact with the steel sections of the car that are still in original factory form?)

    Is this "half-hearted" connection the result of areas where the exterior finish has been applied particularily thick or could it also be an indication of minor body filler/plastic derivative that has been applied for whatever reason?

    (If so, what possible reasons are there for using such a minimal amount of body filler or plastic derivative and what kind of repair would that probably be?)
  • moonzy1moonzy1 Posts: 4
    Hi Everyone,
    I think my AC clutch is bad. Making a whirring sound that goes up and down with the RPM's of the engine. I have never worked on AC components before and i am wondering how to figure out if the clutch is in fact the problem and is this something I could fix myself?
    Any input would be greatly apprec.
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