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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • Do a "battery removal" search on the 300M thread. I haven't had to remove my battery yet so I can't speak from experience but this is a widely discussed issue. From what I have read, you SHOULD be able to remove it from the top. But it involves removing the air box on top, turning the wheels to one side and pushing in the plastic fender panel.
  • WARNING - If you're considering the purchase of a DaimlerChrysler product - RUN AWAY NOW to ANY other car mfg. My experience brings new meaning to "Polishing the TURD." I now have more faith in a Skoda...!

    12/12/03 - 18 days & counting for the engine swap.

    I purchased a 300M-Special in August '02 to replace a Honda. Yes – DC converted a former Honda customer… In the past 15 months and 24,000 miles with this beautiful silver 300M-S I've replaced the Infinity amp, front rotors & pads (at 21,000 miles? Hmmm), an alternator belt, the drivers’ seat rails, both rear struts, and – as of 11/28/03 – a bird-nested engine due to a broken rod.

    I'm without my Top 'O the Line (engine failure @ 24k?) 300M-S from 11/28/03 to probably, maybe 12/10-11/03. My service advisor at Lou Grubb Dodge (Phoenix, AZ), Chris (Gosh, I'm really sorry about that) Crawford has indicated that DC absolutely will not provide a rental vehicle while the 300M is getting it’s heart transplant. I called 800.992.1997 and got the same line, "What, no DC extended warranty – too bad, our product failed horribly, and you get to go find alternate transportation on your own nickel."

    Quite the interesting way to leverage DC’s extended warranties. I wonder which brain surgeon made the command decision to turn satisfied current customers into guaranteed EX-future customers. A $200-300 rental car charge would not even be a negotiating point w/ Ford, GM, Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes for this class of product failure.

    BTW - In 15 years & 230,000 miles ALL the '87 Accord needed were oil, filters, and timing belts. Oh, and the A/C compressor at 180,000 miles. That's it, nada mas...
  • Has anyone experienced a problem with inability to fuel the car due to gas pumps shutting off nearly immediately and repeatedly? Very slow fueling sometimes works but also backs up causing spillage. Seems like a blockage, but I snaked a tube down the filler pipe and it seemed OK. I also crawled underneath and traced the fuel line to the tank and it seems intact.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    It's not your car, it's the pump nozzle. Some nozzles have that problem. You just have to pull the nozzle out about 1 to 2 inches and it'll be fine. The curve of some of the old nozzles causes a problem if you try to jam it all the way in.
  • I wish that were true. This happened with multiple pumps over several days and I had the nozzle in every possible position - rotated, in/out, etc.

    Strangely enough, the other day I was SLOWLY filling (with multiple pump cutoffs) when all of a sudden it started working normally. It has now worked AOK on the last 2 fill-ups.

    'Tis a puzzlement!
  • Had a similar issue on a 2000 Mazda B3000 pickup. My 300M did not repeat the problem. I have heard people mention that the new 'Clean Air' nozzles will cause problems like this. Indeed the solution is to keep the nozze out about 1-2 inches and then manually pump the gas with about 3/4 pressure on the handle. Painfully slow!
  • Has anyone done this? I know there is a panel to be removed in the right front wheel well. Fine. My problem arose when I tried to access the battery from the engine compartment so I could remove the cables. In order to do that the air cleaner housing has to be removed. Therein lies the problem. The housing is anchored into the wheel well and I am unable to remove it. Any help would be appreciated.
  • gbmgb1gbmgb1 Posts: 1
    Just did this. Turn the wheel all the way to the right. Remove the screws that hold the access panel, do this from the wheel well.
    Remove the negative auxiliary cable
    Remove the air filter and the air cleaner top. Loosen the hose clamp from the housing and remove it completely, there is a rubber sleeve holding the air box, just pull up (it is a friction fit with a boss at the exposed end and it comes off hard)and remove it, mote the rubber sleeve on the side of the box where it mates to the air intake off of the inner fender. The small air box is held in place by a push type of fastener, Use a small screw driver in the slots to pop the inner pin up then pull out and move it out of the way.
    Slide the wheel well access cover out (easier said than done)
    Remove the battery hold down (2 screws - different lengths), then the positive cable, slide the battery toward the opening, remove the negative terminal slide it out and lower to the the ground.
    Note: most of the fasteners are metric.
  • del12del12 Posts: 1
    My 30M, 25,000 miles has a "Tony the Tiger" growl. This only happens when the engine is cold. When I put it in gear and give it gas I get this growl. Let off on the accelerator, growl stops, accelerate again-more growl. The local 5* dealer says the noise appears to be from the engine exaust system and this is normal for all 2002's per the factory rep. Anyone else with this problem?
  • Our 2000 300M has had 3 of the 4 door locks fail to date. 1st was covered under 3yr/36k coverage but we paid for the 2nd to the tune of $220. This week when the 3rd failed we called the hot line to gain coverage for the repeat problem. Chrysler offered to cover most of the repair but required a co-pay. When we stood our ground the customer service rep suddenly ended the conversation taking the offer of part coverage off the table and informing us that we need not be a repeat Chrysler customer in the future. Our dealer was extremely disappointed with Chrsyler's approach to customer service and made good on the problem. DC's approach to customer service needs a complete recalibration!
  • gty62gty62 Posts: 25
    Just be pray the heater doesn't break. The heating element is apparently sewn directly into the seat cover, and to replace the heater one must purchase the entire lower assembly - retail value $670!!! plus labor to install . . . I was quoted over $800 for the whole job!!!

    Well done Chrysler; couple this with your inability to design brake rotors that outlast the pads - you've made a believer out of me . . . my next car will be an import.
  • jfizjfiz Posts: 3
    Not sure if this is the correct board for this inquiry, but it's the one with the most recent activitity on the 300M.

    I am considering buying a 2004 300M, and I was wondering what difference in headroom, if any, the sunroof will make in the car? I'm 6'5, and I need all the headroom I can get. I test drove a 300M *with* a sunroof, but I'm wondering if one without the sunroof would have any additional headroom. Anyone know?


    //[email protected]
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    is probably pretty similar interior wise and there is plenty of headroom. The power seat can be lowered to give you even more room.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Well I am 6'4 and my age 17 son is 6'1 240 (w/about 3' shoulders) so we just bought a 300M after considerable shopping/reading vs Bonnevilles (NO headroom w/sunroof), Galant, Passat, Accord. We drove 300Ms both with and w/o sunroof and no major differences in headroom: have more than a hand's width on both of course lowering power seat. The 300M totally outclasses the rest of the sporty 4drs with their big 6s. I own a Grand Cherokee and have had 2 Caravans with fairly good luck using Chryslter products: only major probs were with 87 caravan 3L 'Mitsubishi' engine. So with discounts and the $4000 rebate I am looking fwd to the 300M, however it will be mainly my wife's car and after we get out of extended Jeep warranty we'll probably drive it more.
    Obviously I read the posts here and other consumer mags and editors reports etc. This car with the premium package looks great on the surface so I hope to say this 7-10 yrs from now as I run my vehicles into the ground. Also I much prefer the styling of this vs new 300M and need FWD due to living in the woods (yes, I have a Jeep but not going to carpool every day we get > 3in of snow in Minn). Our only decision is to get or wait on ext warranty (current plan is wait till end of first year and see how it goes...was surprised on price HIGHER than our Jeep's since 300M already has the 7/70, and I am leary of some of these Internet ext warr companys). More to come, we pick it up later this week.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I'm positive you and your family will be very pleased with your purchase of a new 300M. I can't say it enough that I enjoy turning the key everytime in mine.

    I will add that, if you are seriously considering getting the extended warranty, you should buy it at the time of purchase. It will be considerably higher to purchase one a year from now. And you don't have to worry about buying one from the internet. Chrysler has their own factory backed extended warranty. That's what I purchased when I bought my '02 300M Special and, should I need any warranty service, I can take it to any Chrysler/Dodge dealer in the country. It's fairly inclusive coverage and all the high dollar items (engine, transmission, seat motors, window motors, etc.) are covered.
  • summersummer Posts: 2
    After admiring the 300M for the past few years, I finally bought myself one. I absolutely love the way it handles, and it's fun to drive. Problem: I went to pick up my Ford truck after getting it services and the mechanic walked out to the car with me. He was walking around my car admiring it, when he said "I think you have some problems". It turns out that the right side of the car and the left side don't match. The hood is uneven, the trunk lid is uneven, the drivers side doors aren't flush like the other side, the slight fender flair is much larger on one side than the other, seams from the two sides don't match, etc. and etc. I took it back to Carmax where I bought it and I'm not sure what the outcome is going to be. The service dept was not much help-wanted to send it to a body shop. In my limited knowledge of cars, I would think that no brand new car would be in need of a body shop. I told them that I did not want a new car that required body work. I was then sent to the sales floor to talk to the new car manager. The manager on duty apparently was not the right manager, and they said I have to call back tomorrow to talk to another manager. This place is 65 miles from my home, and I took time off work today, because I had to have "an appointment" for them to look at it. My appointment turned into dissapointment. Could any of you out there help me with info on this? In this situation does Chrysler take the car back? Has anybody ever bought a new car that required taking to a body shop for repairs? Carmax says they won't sell a car that has been wrecked, but wanted to send my brand new one for body work. Does that mean that they wouldn't sell it as a used car, even though they sold it to me as a new one? I have a lot of questions and would like some answers. Thanks!
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Since when does Carmax sell new cars? Sounds like you got a used one that may have been in an accident. But if the car feels fine to you and handles fine, there probably isn't really a problem. Just have them realign the panels and you should be all set. If you're uncertain, go to the DMV and have them run the VIN# to check for accidents or if it's ever been totaled. You can also go to and request a history on your car. It'll cost you, but the peace-of-mind might be worth it to you.

    There's ZERO chance that Chrysler is going to buy back a used car. You're stuck with having to deal with Carmax.
  • summersummer Posts: 2
    Thanks for the reply. Carmax does sell new vehicles here in Georgia. They have dealerships for Chrysler, Jeep, and Mitsubishi that I know of. The car had 8 miles on it when I bought it. No doubt that it was brand new. They (carmax) called me today, want me to bring it in again next week, so they can 'look at it' again. I got the impression they do expect Chrysler to buy it back. It somehow got past their quality assurance people, and then Carmax missed the problems too. I'm just wondering if I should replace it with another 300M. I love this car, but after having a bad experience with Chrysler and Carmax, not sure I would ever want to do business with either of them again.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Summer--What you describe is not my experience [99M approaching 6 years old] and don't recall anyone on the big board over the last 5 years mentioning defects like you describe. Definitely a QC problem. They should be anxious to fix it not the opposite. They are holding back 300C's near the plant now nit picking for any defects on the new model before they are shipped, so you can be assured that this M must have slipped by the inspection somehow. The plant workers were very conscientious about quality when I visited the plant two years ago with the 300M Club.
  • shell01shell01 Posts: 1
    I have read this message board for the 1st time- I have had nothing but problems with this car. I have been told that I need tie-rods and bushings for the 3rd time. I have 122,500 miles on the car, it will be 5 years of problems on 6/22. The dealer has had to replace front door locks 2 times, oil and trans pan 3 times for leaks, I had no heat in 99 when it turned cold in Chicago- the car was only 4 months old.... When the car is cold, the air bag light appears-
    the dealer told me that there is nothing wrong with the car-, the front seat, had the recall- still jumps around. Just bought 4 brand new tires- have the loose steering again. When I hit 60 miles an hr-
    the car shimmy's - nothing wrong with the car------ Try and get a head light changed--- $105.00 bucks- they have to take off the bumper-
    Yea I love this car, like a big pimple on my nose. Never again....
  • j3studioj3studio Posts: 27

    Our 1999 300M (slate, PHP, I remember when PHP meant something, :) ) just lost the power window motor on the rear driver's side door. Does anyone know how much it will cost to get it fixed? We're probably trading it in this summer...should we just 'deal' with this problem until then?

    Thanks in advance for any and all advice!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Had this done on the driver's rear window last month on my 99M. Cost here in KY, - you could be in a higher labor rate area - was part #5012545AD Motor: Window Regulator $82.70; part #6504014 Door Trim Panel $1.85; Labor $100.45; Tax and shop supplies [don't have a clue what that is] $14.62. Total: $199.66. I did this repair after using BigMikes fist to glass technique for several years to free up the glass which sometimes sticks on the molding and which the motor did not have the torque to overcome. Essentially, it entails opening the door, starting the car or turning the ignition key and having someone push the button while you take you fist, soft side to the window and pound your way around the edge of the glass, not hitting it enough to break the glass, but giving it a good rap four or five places. That got mine working a few times but I got sick of it last time and had the repair done. There is a TSB on this problem from DC, so you may be able to negotiate over the repair given as I am sure your's has been malfunctioning sporadically, as the TSB says, over time, and before it left warranty.
  • j3studioj3studio Posts: 27
    Thanks, BigMike!
  • muttraymuttray Posts: 5
    It appears that I have "blown" my front center speaker in my 2000 300M. It rattles something horrible and ruins any music that I listen to. This being Sunday, I stopped by Best Buy for input from their car stereo department (fully aware of what I was in for). As soon as I mentioned what type of car it was and the problem, they all ran screaming away as fast as they could. One of them was nice enough to say that they couldn't handle it there and strongly recommended not going to the dealer about it either. They gave me the name of a shop that is supposed to be a good place to go. Has anyone else had a problem with this speaker(s) and if so, how did you have it corrected? Since the dash will need to be pulled I am thinking of updating all the speakers that are hiding up there as long as I am paying for the labor to rip it all out and put it back in. Any comments?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Unless the 2000 M is a little different from the 2002 M, there is no need to take the dash apart to get to that speaker. Only three pieces need to be removed; the two A-pillar covers and the black panel at the base of the windshield. It takes all of, maybe, a minute and a half to pull those pieces off. I know because I had to install my RB1 navigation antenna beside the dash speaker.
  • muttraymuttray Posts: 5
    That would be very nice. I will check out that approach.
    Thank you!
  • muttraymuttray Posts: 5
    Do those three pieces just pop out or are there any hidden fasteners to remove? I am a little spooked to mess up the nice fit prying somewhere that I shouldn't be prying. I have worked on almost everything else on cars but have always shied away from pulling interior pieces loose, they always seem to not go back just as nice as they came out.

    Thanks in advance for any help!
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    The pieces in question here just pop right out. No hidden screws.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    I've got 20K on my Concorde Ltd and I get oil on my garage floor after every oil change. I have it done at the dealer. Does oil run into various cracks and crannies when draining? It stops after a few days so no real big deal but what gives?
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    When the filter is removed, oil runs onto an engine mount located on the subframe, then drips as you describe. I change my own oil and cover the mount with aluminum foil before removing the filter.
This discussion has been closed.