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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Great to hear it. Enjoy the car, I still love mine, even tho I recently added an 04 Vette to my garage. Like I told the wife--"You'll have to pry the keys from my cold dead fingers before I give up my M."
  • kylitokylito Posts: 17
    Anybody out there have problems with a 2000 300M such as the following: When the car is cold the temperature control center makes a motor noise when the car is off, when the brake pedal is released there is a clanging noise from the brake booster, loud noise under the hood after getting the serpentine belt was changed, and when the accelerator is backed off the RPM's fluctuate. please respond
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    The small motor noise you can hear when the engine is turned off is a fan motor behind the dash that is supposed to bring air across the sensors on the A/C /vent system. It is totally normal [although initially it can be disconcerting to hear this little motor running, but it is not a problem.

    Can't help on the other noise.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Thanks for this tip on the HVAC area noise!! My wife usually drives the car but I have noticed it on quiet nights when I went out to put something in the car.

    I have noticed this noise since we picked up our new 300M 7 months seemed to quit when I turned the fan control off on off (but may be in my head, it's real quiet). Since I never mentioned it to the dealer, I didn't "count" it as even thinking it was something wrong under warranty and now it appears to just be normal. No warranty problems after 7000 miles either, let's hope that keeps up (my Jeep Gr Cherokee did not either but then a rash of bugs from 20-35,000 miles so we bought the 70k extended warranty only to use it once with 58k on that vehicle).
  • kylitokylito Posts: 17
    I just got back from the garage and they said due to this fan noise I need a new unit which will cost me 245 canadian and they said the noise will get worse.
    Any thoughts?
  • kylitokylito Posts: 17
    Just got back and the garage also said my brake booster is going and should cost me about 500 canadian. I feel with these noises I am being raked over the coals. This car only has 80000km. Any thoughts?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    If the fan noise you hear is just a mild buzz then you do not have a problem. It is supposed to run that way. I would not change it unless it is squealing, smoking or making a lot of noise. I doubt it is a problem. The other noise I can give no advice on at this point.
  • I'm having the same problem with my 99 300M. It usually takes two or thee turns of the key to start. I figured it was the starter. Is this the problem you had? Should i change the relay first?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    See previous messages about starting problem. Mine would hesitate when I turned the key and then after several times it would turnover and start. It was not churning and failing to catch, it would just not do anything until the 2nd or 3rd turn of the key. As it started to get more frequent I first ditched the 4.5 year old battery, then shifted to the ignition relay and starter switch. One of the latter was the problem. I changed em both since the relay was so cheap[$10]. See above for part numbers.
  • 78887888 Posts: 12
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    BFG Traction T/A's. Good reviews---low price.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Goodrich has some good ones [Scorchers; K force?]that will fit and Yoko Avids also were rated good and relatively cheap.
  • 78887888 Posts: 12
    Thanks jayrider! you guys are great! happy holidays!
  • 78887888 Posts: 12
    Again, Thanks BigMike5! you gave me the solution to my last problem and my car is running great! i appreciate you guys for taking the time to respond to my questions! have a happy holiday and a happy new year!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    No sweat. Hope you get a good set at a good price. Ask any time. We have a good base of folks with answers based upon long time experience.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Has anyone tried to insulate their Ms from rattles? My '02 Special rattles from the rear deck and possibly the interior door panels over really rough roads. It's not constant rattling, mind you. It happens when I hit substantial road imperfections.


    I'm also having an annoying squeak from the sunroof. I'm positive that it is the seal drying out. Anyone had to have the seal changed?
  • 2 years ago I was getting squeaks around the doors on my 2000 M. I put Armor All on the black door gaskets and carefully sprayed CRC 556 (similar to WD40) around the edge of the door trim panels where they meet the painted metal part of the door so that it penetrates under the trim panel where it rubs on the paint. Then wipe off the excess that dribbles down. It really quieted things down and is still quiet today. Try the Armor All on the sunroof seal too.
  • Went out to start my 300m and it had no power. I replaced my battery and that gave me power but it would not turn over. It makes a clicking noise and i need help trying to figure this problem out. Please Help!
  • A clicking noise usually indicates a run down battery, especially in cold weather. Where are you located? Did you replace your battery with a new one or a used one? Did it turn over at all with the replacement battery or did it beginning clicking immediately?


    Will it start with a boost? If not, it may need mechanical attention --could be the starter motor.


    Good luck!
  • I replaced the battery. I then tried to start the car and it was making a clicking noise. I then jumped the car and it started. I left it started for about 20 minutes and all of a sudden it shut off. I tried to start it and no power at all. I think it is the altenator, but what dou you think?

    Anthem, AZ
  • Believe me, I am not an expert on these matters...


    I think a new replacement battery should have started your car in the first place. However, in my experience, a weak battery will gain power if the car is left running and the alternator is working. A bad alternator will drain the battery and the car will stop running.


    I would guess it to be a bad alternator (or whatever they call them these days), but I would have thought you would have gotten a dash light if it wasn't charging properly.


    Do you recall any dash lights during the process?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Change the ignition relay [$10] and then go to the starter switch. [$36 + Labor=$110]. If those fail, and the battery is not a bad one off the shelf, consider the alternator, but do that as a last resort. I don't know if there is a solenoid in there somewhere, but in the old days a clicking noise usually meant a bad solenoid. I do know that the relay and starter switch replacement solved a failure to start problem for me.
  • Hey did u ever find out what was wrong with ur car!! I have a 99M and when i turn it on and take off the speedometer dont move, it makes a funny sound, the check engine light is on, and the car turns off every time i stop, ie: at a light, turning corners, stop signs, but not the fwy, so i took it to the dealership and they cant find out whats wrong with it. they said it might be in the wiring or a sensor or something. Can anyone plzzzzzzzzzzzzz. help
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    What has the dealer done?


    I suggest having the fuel delivery system checked (filter, injectors), check the air filter, and check the throttle position sensor.


    Are you getting any rough vibration before it stalls? If so, I'd also recommend having the transmission checked. Get up to normal speed, put it in Autostick mode, then come to a complete stop to see if it automatically shifts all the way down to first gear.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    Sounds like the output speed sensor on the transmission - a common problem.
  • mgb564mgb564 Posts: 1
    I have 2004 300M Special. Have experienced same problem at about same mileage (8500 KMS) Took to 5* dealer. They removed complete front cowling, wiper assembly etc. Found poor weld and repaired.

    Have not had a relapse and KMS at 18000. This is not a common problem as suggested by dealer. I know a number of 300M Special owners here in Canada and they have not had this problem. Hope this helps
  • 2001 Chrysler 300M w/ 78,000 miles


    Here's the problem; this has shown up mainly since the weather has gotten colder. When cold starting and attempting to back out of a parking space, when the car is placed in reverse the accelerator pedal cannot be depressed. If its put back in Park and the pedal => forced <= down, it will free up and you can return to reverse and drive/back normally. This has happened a few times now. I've searched TSBs and don't find anything similar. Anyone else experience this or know what the problem might be. It will go to the dealer, but would like to be informed.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Never heard of your issue in 6 years on this board. Doesn't sound like just a lube problem. Must be something really messed up in there. Let us know what the resolution to the problem is.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    You've got ice forming in the line that holds the accelerator cable. With the engine off, squirt some WD40 in it from the engine end and work the accelerator several times. Do it after you've driven the car for a little while, but after the engine has cooled down a little bit and before the cable has time to freeze again.
  • stpoststpost Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 300M, the shift lever seems to be off a little to the right so that the Autostick downshift move to the left travels very slightly. It works, but I wondered if anyone has experienced anything like this before. Dealer or tire shops haven't mentioned anything out of line during alignments or other checkups.
This discussion has been closed.