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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • wbaborwbabor Posts: 2
    I have a weird problem..miles on call 15,000

    Sometimes when I make a hard left or right turn or a complete circle turn, the tires wobble and feel like you are riding on the sides of the tires...I have been to the dealer, and they have no clue..

    Tire pressure and tire wear are ok..and no vibration at any speeds.

    Does anyone have any info on this..


  • trolphtrolph Posts: 3
    Hi just joined this sight and finally figured out how to post a concern to share with my fellow 300m owners. I bought out a lease of a 2000 year model 300m with 29000km.
    I love this car and am glad to see a sight like this to look at possible problems to look for. Since I didn't see anything about the exhaust system here is what I just encountered with mine and I hope I can save some other people big money as I have.
    I was going to install chrome tail pipes on my muffler but the mechanic informed me that it would be a waste of money because I had 3 pin holes at the bottom of the muffler and it would need replacing very soon. I found out mufflers are covered under the 3 year/60000km warranty. So I told them to replace it. They got the car on the hoist and found 2 holes in the exhaust pipe coming from the engine. So that was needed to be replaced also.
    I saved $1200 job just because I wanted to enhance the look from behind with chrome. I probably would have never noticed the decay in the exhaust system until after my warranty was up if it was not for that.
    I recommend every one to get the exhaust system checked before your warranty runs out to avoid such a absurd extra cost that could have been prevented.
  • reybeastreybeast Posts: 35
    wbabor, I have the same problem you have. I have contributed the problem to how well my Michelin xgt-z4 tires bite the road, and the tires seem to skip when doing a tight turn or a circle like you said. The faster you take the turn the worse it is. It doesnt bother me since I have a ford truck that does the same thing. I think its just that the wheels get cocked to one side at an odd angle when you turn that sharp and the tires cant stay flat during the turn. I wouldnt worry about it, as long as your alignment is good and your tires wear evenly, drive it like you stole it!
  • rrmanrrman Posts: 21
    My 94 New Yorker developed a weird habit of dieing while commuting at 65-80 miles per hour, usually it would restart in nuetral while still coasting. A few times I had to pull off and wait. Finally it left me in a parking lot and got a tow. Problem: Crankshaft Position Sensor! Garage found it on problem code, but I never got a check engine light...Should of taken it in right away, but the dead car in traffic was a cheap thrill, randomness spicing it up. Call me crazy, my Concorde has 4 coats of Zaino Z2!
  • I know this is covered in a TSB, but I'm wondering if anyone else has had this problem? If so, how much did it cost to repair (w/ or w/o warranty).
  • rbottosrbottos Posts: 3
    I would like to know if anyone has information on changing differential fluid in the 300M. With 8 dealers in Houston area, 2 say 15,000 miles, 3 say 30,000 miles and the rest aren't aware that the differential fluid needs to be changed. Price is $84.00!!. Owners manual states 100,000 miles. Any help is appreciated. I'm convinced to change it myself to see why dealers want to change at 15,000 miles.
    Thanks 2000 "M" 24,000 miles
  • mfeigesmfeiges Posts: 1
    In Oct 1999 I debated the purchase of the 300M or the Infiniti I30. My I30 now has 39K miles with absolutely no problems. I had owned many Chrysler products and every one was a never ending series of breakdowns. After reading some of the problems that have been posted on the 300M it appears I made the correct decision. Chysler just doesn't seem to get it!!!
  • this article is for"mfeiges". Well I guess you haven't seen the tsb's for your car... If I were you I wouldn't be tooting my horn too loud.. By the way, I own two new body style LH cars and haven't had a problem ( except for those crappy GOODYEAR tires).
  • sandlwsandlw Posts: 1
    melzian1, have dealer inspect rack and pinion. when they start to go they tend to clunk. it's located in the engine compartment low, behind dash
  • I have a 2000. I started to hear what I thought was the exhaust pipe rattling against the floor. Brought it to the dealer just before 36,000 miles. They replaced the front stabilizer struts - now OK. Could be the same thing.
  • I am looking for 300M owners who have experienced a crack near the passenger side airbag. I am told that the airbag unit is mounted in a way that puts excessive underside pressure on the dash. This is a manufacturers defect and Chrysler should fix, but is refusing. I am going to the media with this problem. Please e-mail me at [email protected] if you have experienced this problem.
  • From the first time I saw the 300M in the summer of 1998 displayed at pier 39, I knew that I wanted that car. I waited and found a beautiful previously owned, 99, gunmetal grey,fully loaded with 35,000 miles at a local dealership. After an intire afternoon of price dickering in the rain we brought her home for 21,000 including the extended warranty that now I realize was worthless. All but what the warranty covers seems to be breaking down systematically. After 1 week, her alarm would go off for no apparent reason and could not be turned off without taking out the chip. They repaired it free of charge since we had just purchased it. 2 weeks after that the right rear door could not be shut. Again I returned her to the shop and they repaired her only to find the original door they ordered was broken in transit so I was yet again stuck another week without a vehical. Even though they ordered and installed a new door for free, I am self-employed so this was still costly. I found out later on that the previous owner had this door problem and had gotten it repaired(eyeroll). The dealership didn't tell us about the door even though I made it a point to ask if there was ANY previous problems listed by the previous owner that I should be made aware of. Soon after, I noticed a rattling somewhere underneath the car when going over bumpy roads. Thank God for the loud infinity stereo system because no one can seem to find where it's coming from. I'm considering replacing the bushings in hopes that this will quiet my car. This search for the rattle did however reveal that I had to have the struts replaced at a hefty price of over $400 at 40,000 miles. Next I found myself unable to click out of second gear while coming home from work. On the way to the dealership she shut down all together. The transmission chip had to be replaced thus costing an arm and a leg by the same dealership that sold me the car. Now my electrical system is showing signs of failure. My dome lights come off and on when my headlights are on, this too is not covered under my so called warranty they sold me. So now I must adjust my headlight levels to eliminate this moving light show. Now at 47,000 miles I find that my steering box is in need of replacement costing me as much as 1,500. What's next? So heres a tip, don't bother getting that warranty because it's a waste of money. Take that money and put it away for all the little things that might happen down the road, that is those so called "chrysler usuals". Another thing I might add. After I brought her home I went to a muffler specialist and had the second muffler removed and a beautiful thick oval tip (to match the 00 in the 300) and it looks and sounds incredible! Not to mention it added 3 more horsepower. I must say, even though I'm having these problems, I still love this car. I just wish that I had researched chryslers so called "usual" problems.
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Chrysler sells three levels of coverage.
    1. powertrain only

    2.Added Care = 800 Items

    3. Max care = All mechanical components

    Since you negotiated the price of the contract into the price of the car they evidently sold you #1 as #2 and #3 do cover the speed sensor that locked you tranny in second gear.

    The rattle your hearing is probably the steering rack and pinion assy again covered by #2 and #3 only. A somewhat "typical" problem again.

    Try to get the dealer to upgrade you warranty to a #3 as the 99's are a first model year with "typical" first yr problems

    You can check her for more details on problems and fixes
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Better yet try these guys.

    Give them a call to see if they will upgrade you coverage. I bought my warranty from them on my '01 LHS the were about 40% cheaper than buying from Chrysler on line even though It is still the Chrysler factory warranty.

    Can't hurt to call and ask, the are a very friendly Chrysler dealer.

  • I was only offered to take over the original warranty contract purchases by the previous owner up to 48,000 miles through AutoNation. Since I am now at 47,070 I'm pretty much on my own at this point. Currently I am without a car for 4 days while they fix my steering, light show, and rattling. They did however offer me 1 day of rental car(finger twirl). Guess this is the chance you take when buying a new model. Thanks for your advice and I will definatly check it out.
  • in my 300M I noticed that when I ride with my rear backrest down and the sunroof open, at about 40 miles an hour I get a pulsing sound vibration. The only thing that deminishes it is either going slower or closing the roof. Anyone else notice this problem? Is there something I can add to the sunroof to elimanate this head noise?
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Several people in the 300M club have these on their cars and they say it helps the wind noise.

  • I see in this board a few other references to the following problem...
    My previous car was a 1999 300M (standard suspension) – NO PROBLEMS and MUCH driving pleasure over more than three years. In April 2002, I took delivery of essentially the same model, standard suspension – only the Luxury Group is a new addition. From the outset with the 2002, I have noticed that the handling is much less taut and precise, fuel economy is poor (21-22 MPG at same speeds and over same routes with same 89-octane gasoline brand) compared with the 1999 (27-28 MPG). Currently 7,000 miles on odometer. Twice in the past month, I have found the vehicle completely "dead" in my driveway: no start, no instrument displays, no nothing. On both occasions, vehicle started immediately with a jump start. Roadside Assistance truck driver reported other similar episodes that he has seen in the past few months involving new Ford, GM, and Chrysler products. Dealer fix for my first "no-start" episode was – a new battery! Vehicle is currently at the dealership; I am currently at home with a "loaner" Sebring – not a very exciting alternative. Due to Chrysler's deserved reputation for poor quality over the years, I leased both the 1999 and the 2002, so I will be stuck with this problem for only 23 more months. If the dealer/TSB collective knowledge can't account for this problem, should I complain about leasing an unreliable vehicle, or should I just tolerate the occasional and unpredictable inconveniences?
  • Vehicle remained at my dealership for three days. After various checks and cross checks for problems in the electrical system, a possible cause for the "no-start" problem was identified. Apparently, the GLOVE-BOX LIGHT had been "on" since the vehicle left the assembly line in April. Daily use of the vehicle during spring and summer kept the battery sufficiently charged so that the car was always able to start. However, in the fall and winter, I sometimes do not need to use my vehicle for four or five days at a time; this is long enough for the glove-box light to drain the battery, which is exactly what happened last week, as well as one month ago. My service manager was tipped off about this through an internal message board for Chrysler technicians; apparently, there have been other instances of this problem. The GLOVE-BOX DOOR on my (and other 300Ms) is both somewhat flexible and slightly askew; although I seldom open the glove box door (in fact, I always leave it locked), the door was not closing tightly enough against the glove-box-light SWITCH to turn the light off. Since I seldom drive at night, the fact that the glove-box light was always "on" was not obvious. SOLUTION: dealer has ordered a new glove-box assembly. In the meantime, a "shim" has been taped to the inside of the glove-box door to take up the slack.
  • I have Three 300Ms but have noticed that the oldest (the 99) has some problems returning the steering wheel to "neutral" after left hand turns (note that theses "turns" do not have to be more than 15 degrees!) You must "steer" past what feels to be a detent in the steering column. Right turns do not manifest this problem. My bride (who normally drives this car) says the car has done this for over a year (but of course it always slipped her mind .)

    Has anyone else experienced this problem? I suspect it may be a problem with the rack but wanted a few opinions before taking it to the shop.
  • I also have that same issue. I thought it was the way they built the car when I first purchased her. After about 15,000 miles, I heard a rattle from the bottom of the car and noticed a slow losening of the steering as well as the sticking of the steering seemed had disappeared. I took her in and found I needed the rack and pinion(sp)steering box replaced. The rattle is now gone but the sticky steering to the left has returned with the new box(shrug).
  • I was just reading message #52 (above) regarding finding holes in the exhaust pipes.

    I thought that Chrysler was putting stainless-steel exhaust pipes in all their cars (or at least the high-end cars) for several years now.

    The mufflers themselves may not be, but aren't the exhaust piles (front, rear, etc) on the 300 made from stainless steel???
  • My 2000 300M currently has 3 (of 4) faulty door locks. When opened/closed they make a grinding noise, and usually will not open. They are even preventing us from unlocking the doors manually from the inside! Are there any others having similar issues? Any recalls on this? I have a friend with the same issue with a Dodge Durango. I "heard" his problem the other day.
  • how does one know when the tranny/sensor is going to go out? I just bought a 99 300M and looking at the past problems with the car. It seems like the speed sensor fails and the car does not shift out of 1st gear. any suggestions. and how much would that cost to fix? and does anybody know of a 300M club in ARIZONA?
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Everything you ever needed to know about you speed sensors icID=201.topic
  • Has anyone had the Emergency Flasher button pop up by itself and refuse to stay down (off) until the engine was stopped?
  • stsmanstsman Posts: 8
    I know this will sound strange to a lot(except for the few old timers that read this)of you,but my first chrysler was a 1955 300(A or whatever),purchased in 1962 used,when I was a soph in college.It was white,had a 6v elec.system,and yes!ostrich hide leather seats(as shown by a seat tag in back).This bear had the 331 ci true HEMI,with dual 4bbl carbs and "HONKED!"Anyway,I've owned a 68 and 69 Dodge Charger R/T 's 440ci that I also raced and drove on the street.Recently,I bought a 2000 cinammon color 300M for my wife.I haven't experienced,nor do I hope to,the cracked dashes,stalls,squeaks,misalignments or associated problems read in these emails.If I do, I will pass it on.You have a nice forum here,people are not afraid to say what they need to say.I also thought that the 300M had an SS exhaust system?I bought the car with 32,000 miles and the muffler looks ok?Has anyone ever had to try and change the battery???Looks like a nightmare,yet,the OM says you don't need to remove the wheel?Granted,nothing is perfect,and if Chrysler or anybody is truly serious about "Yea,Rah,Rah"let's bring back that good 'ol American quality,it's venue's such as this they need to pay attention to,to build the better mousetrap(Hemi-powered of course!)Thanx,keep up the feedback -
  • charlesf1charlesf1 Posts: 52
    I have a 2000M with 39,000 plus miles on it. A crack showed up on the dash just to the right of center a few months ago. When I took the car in for service in March I told the service writer about it. He told me they would cover it under warranty. They ordered a new dash and replaced it the following week. I had talked to the fellow who was servicing the car and he said they had replaced the dash on four of them that he knew of. Good luck!
  • joycem2joycem2 Posts: 5
    We don't have a 300M but we just had to replace both input and output sensors on our 1998 Intrepid ES with only 9500 miles on it. Our 5 yr. extended warranty ran out in April this year. We had the car at the dealer in March when the transmission was slipping and they reprogrammed something and sent us on our way. The other day, I think the transmission locked in 2nd gear. It was very sluggish and Check Engine warning came on. Auto parts diagnostic equipment showed that Gear 1 and Gear 3 ratios were incorrect. Dealer was going to charge $180 to replace both sensors but we were able to get the service manager approve paying $50 deductible amount that was in effect on extended warranty. We drove previous '95 Intrepid 47000 miles and '97 Intrepid 58000 miles until we sold it recently, both without any problems like this. Is it a problem with new generation (starting 1998) Intrepids and 300M's?
  • greg0rygreg0ry Posts: 4
    I haven't read through the entire message board yet, but I thought I'd ask the question anyway. I have a 2003 300M Special with the Ultimate Performance Tire and Wheel Group, with 7500 miles. At around 5000 miles I began hearing a creaking noise that I thought was coming from the center dash when turning the steering wheel at low speeds (like parking maneuvers) or turning the wheel while standing still. After having my car in service for 2 weeks, and replacing both the steering rack and the steering column, the dealer tells me that this noise is common with the Special due to its stiffer suspension and larger 18" wheels, and that it's a inherent characteristic of the vehicle that can't be fixed. Has anyone else (with or without the performance suspension) experienced this problem?
  • beespecialbeespecial Posts: 69
    I too have a 2003 Special with the performance suspension/wheel group and 10k+ miles. I have noticed no noises as you describe. You might want to get some opinions from some other mechanics. IMO no car should have 'inherent' noises.
  • jab02lhsjab02lhs Posts: 122
    Ask to take out a similar car on their lot to verify a common problem. If no noise ask the service manager to drive both cars.
  • ca2stayca2stay Posts: 5
    Well, I finally had the Output Speed Sensor fail yesterday. I bought both sensors for $25/ea and will replace today. I had to limp home 60 mi. even though the dealer was 1 mi from my office. He said he didn't have anyone to help me (thanks for nothing). Painful driving 4k RPM in 2nd gear on the highway for 60 mi. in rush hour.

    Twice during my ride home when I exited the freeway the engine died. I hope its related to the speed sensors and not another failure (Crankshaft Position Sensor).
  • ca2stayca2stay Posts: 5
    BTW, my driver side PW motor failed. I also notice that the driver door panel is broken at the bottom where it is affixed to the door.

    I also noticed that I'm now getting a vibration in the steering that most of you spoke of and associated w/Goodyear tires. I had Eibach springs (lower) and 18" wheels/tires put on @ 50k mi. and the problem is just showing up now.

    I found a guy who will rebuild the PW motor for $50. I send the motor and he rebuilds. It's a 1hr job to R&R. Oh well, this car starting to require the same care as my 69 Cougar.

    My 99 300M has fun (mostly) 77,800mi.
  • My 1999 (60,000 miles) is experiencing a noise in the right rear that sounds like a measured repeating rubbing sound with each rub of the same duration; like a staccato that may repeat 1 to 10 times. It usually begins during a cornering force like making a wide left turn. The sound may repeat on the straight away, shortly after the turn, a couple of times then the noise quits. It does not make the sound after stopping at a stop sign then making a turn. The car is at the dealer now for the second time trying to find the problem. I too have had trouble with the driver-side power window 2x, the muffler replaced, headlights blinking uncontrollably in the automatic setting, on my second episode/fix of that problem now. I'm looking at a 2004 because I like so many things about the 300M. After reading about all the problems, I'm wondering if it's a wise decision.
  • Hello all,

    I love my 2003 (stock, silver) that I picked up for a steal due to the previous owner's habit of chipping some of the paint on the trunk when removing golf clubs or some items. What an idiot! Anyway, I have the following problems and I'd surely appreciate any help.

    1. Rear passenger door does not open. Suspect the door mechanism may be broken OR the child safety lock mechanism broken. Anyone else seen this out of the factory? I doubt the previous owner even noticed, it was on a lease and had less than 7k on it. They didn't even take the shrinkwrap off the manual :) If indeed broken, does the 'adjustment' phase of the warranty expire at 12k as per similar cars I've had? I'll get it fixed regardless, just want to know if I need to get in to the dealer in less than 600 miles (I'm closing in on 12K already after only 6 months!)

    2. Even more frustrating is the auto-lowering driver's side mirror. In the research I've done on this board and others, it appears to be a luxury option set in the EVIC or by some other programming mechanism. Since my vehicle is stock, I'm not able to set this feature from reading the manual. I may be missing something, though. Most troubling is that I *swear* this started happening after about 3 months of ownership, so I may have sat on the remote, punched some stereo buttons, etc and not known what I was doing. If anyone has heard about this being a malfunction of some sort or ever better, knows how to disable this feature on a stock 2003 model, I surely appreciate it.

    Ben in IL
  • The auto-lowering of the mirror is a feature that should activate only when placing the car in reverse gear and obviously when the feature is turned on. Disabling this feature is done through the EVIC. Cycle through the menu on the EVIC and you will find a place to set it to "off". I have a 2003 Special and I have it turned off so that I can back in to my garage. I need the mirrors in the up position so I can judge the spacing on the sides.
  • The driver's seat of my '01 300M started making popping sounds--actually, the sound is barely audible but is easily felt by my butt--that while routine driving, the feel of a pop at the back or front, left or right in the seat occurs every 5-10 minutes. There is no pattern as to when the sensation occurs--stopping, starting, but may occur more often during turning and it seems to take its turn around the seat at different locations. A few months ago the dealer did a recall install of the hinge bolts (as I recall). There are 3K miles of warranty left and I am seeking any opinions BEFORE I take it back to a dealer for service on this seat problem. TIA

    Michael S.
  • How do I do this?
  • I don't have the manual handy, but, as I remember, you turn the wheels al the way to one direction (don't remember which) and access the battery through the right side wheel well. There is a cover plate you have to remove. I haven't done this yet and have been dreading it. Let me know how difficult it is.
  • Do a "battery removal" search on the 300M thread. I haven't had to remove my battery yet so I can't speak from experience but this is a widely discussed issue. From what I have read, you SHOULD be able to remove it from the top. But it involves removing the air box on top, turning the wheels to one side and pushing in the plastic fender panel.
  • WARNING - If you're considering the purchase of a DaimlerChrysler product - RUN AWAY NOW to ANY other car mfg. My experience brings new meaning to "Polishing the TURD." I now have more faith in a Skoda...!

    12/12/03 - 18 days & counting for the engine swap.

    I purchased a 300M-Special in August '02 to replace a Honda. Yes – DC converted a former Honda customer… In the past 15 months and 24,000 miles with this beautiful silver 300M-S I've replaced the Infinity amp, front rotors & pads (at 21,000 miles? Hmmm), an alternator belt, the drivers’ seat rails, both rear struts, and – as of 11/28/03 – a bird-nested engine due to a broken rod.

    I'm without my Top 'O the Line (engine failure @ 24k?) 300M-S from 11/28/03 to probably, maybe 12/10-11/03. My service advisor at Lou Grubb Dodge (Phoenix, AZ), Chris (Gosh, I'm really sorry about that) Crawford has indicated that DC absolutely will not provide a rental vehicle while the 300M is getting it’s heart transplant. I called 800.992.1997 and got the same line, "What, no DC extended warranty – too bad, our product failed horribly, and you get to go find alternate transportation on your own nickel."

    Quite the interesting way to leverage DC’s extended warranties. I wonder which brain surgeon made the command decision to turn satisfied current customers into guaranteed EX-future customers. A $200-300 rental car charge would not even be a negotiating point w/ Ford, GM, Honda, Toyota, or Mercedes for this class of product failure.

    BTW - In 15 years & 230,000 miles ALL the '87 Accord needed were oil, filters, and timing belts. Oh, and the A/C compressor at 180,000 miles. That's it, nada mas...
  • Has anyone experienced a problem with inability to fuel the car due to gas pumps shutting off nearly immediately and repeatedly? Very slow fueling sometimes works but also backs up causing spillage. Seems like a blockage, but I snaked a tube down the filler pipe and it seemed OK. I also crawled underneath and traced the fuel line to the tank and it seems intact.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    It's not your car, it's the pump nozzle. Some nozzles have that problem. You just have to pull the nozzle out about 1 to 2 inches and it'll be fine. The curve of some of the old nozzles causes a problem if you try to jam it all the way in.
  • I wish that were true. This happened with multiple pumps over several days and I had the nozzle in every possible position - rotated, in/out, etc.

    Strangely enough, the other day I was SLOWLY filling (with multiple pump cutoffs) when all of a sudden it started working normally. It has now worked AOK on the last 2 fill-ups.

    'Tis a puzzlement!
  • Had a similar issue on a 2000 Mazda B3000 pickup. My 300M did not repeat the problem. I have heard people mention that the new 'Clean Air' nozzles will cause problems like this. Indeed the solution is to keep the nozze out about 1-2 inches and then manually pump the gas with about 3/4 pressure on the handle. Painfully slow!
  • Has anyone done this? I know there is a panel to be removed in the right front wheel well. Fine. My problem arose when I tried to access the battery from the engine compartment so I could remove the cables. In order to do that the air cleaner housing has to be removed. Therein lies the problem. The housing is anchored into the wheel well and I am unable to remove it. Any help would be appreciated.
  • gbmgb1gbmgb1 Posts: 1
    Just did this. Turn the wheel all the way to the right. Remove the screws that hold the access panel, do this from the wheel well.
    Remove the negative auxiliary cable
    Remove the air filter and the air cleaner top. Loosen the hose clamp from the housing and remove it completely, there is a rubber sleeve holding the air box, just pull up (it is a friction fit with a boss at the exposed end and it comes off hard)and remove it, mote the rubber sleeve on the side of the box where it mates to the air intake off of the inner fender. The small air box is held in place by a push type of fastener, Use a small screw driver in the slots to pop the inner pin up then pull out and move it out of the way.
    Slide the wheel well access cover out (easier said than done)
    Remove the battery hold down (2 screws - different lengths), then the positive cable, slide the battery toward the opening, remove the negative terminal slide it out and lower to the the ground.
    Note: most of the fasteners are metric.
  • del12del12 Posts: 1
    My 30M, 25,000 miles has a "Tony the Tiger" growl. This only happens when the engine is cold. When I put it in gear and give it gas I get this growl. Let off on the accelerator, growl stops, accelerate again-more growl. The local 5* dealer says the noise appears to be from the engine exaust system and this is normal for all 2002's per the factory rep. Anyone else with this problem?
  • Our 2000 300M has had 3 of the 4 door locks fail to date. 1st was covered under 3yr/36k coverage but we paid for the 2nd to the tune of $220. This week when the 3rd failed we called the hot line to gain coverage for the repeat problem. Chrysler offered to cover most of the repair but required a co-pay. When we stood our ground the customer service rep suddenly ended the conversation taking the offer of part coverage off the table and informing us that we need not be a repeat Chrysler customer in the future. Our dealer was extremely disappointed with Chrsyler's approach to customer service and made good on the problem. DC's approach to customer service needs a complete recalibration!
This discussion has been closed.