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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions



  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Great to hear it. Enjoy the car, I still love mine, even tho I recently added an 04 Vette to my garage. Like I told the wife--"You'll have to pry the keys from my cold dead fingers before I give up my M."
  • kylitokylito Posts: 17
    Anybody out there have problems with a 2000 300M such as the following: When the car is cold the temperature control center makes a motor noise when the car is off, when the brake pedal is released there is a clanging noise from the brake booster, loud noise under the hood after getting the serpentine belt was changed, and when the accelerator is backed off the RPM's fluctuate. please respond
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    The small motor noise you can hear when the engine is turned off is a fan motor behind the dash that is supposed to bring air across the sensors on the A/C /vent system. It is totally normal [although initially it can be disconcerting to hear this little motor running, but it is not a problem.

    Can't help on the other noise.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Thanks for this tip on the HVAC area noise!! My wife usually drives the car but I have noticed it on quiet nights when I went out to put something in the car.

    I have noticed this noise since we picked up our new 300M 7 months seemed to quit when I turned the fan control off on off (but may be in my head, it's real quiet). Since I never mentioned it to the dealer, I didn't "count" it as even thinking it was something wrong under warranty and now it appears to just be normal. No warranty problems after 7000 miles either, let's hope that keeps up (my Jeep Gr Cherokee did not either but then a rash of bugs from 20-35,000 miles so we bought the 70k extended warranty only to use it once with 58k on that vehicle).
  • kylitokylito Posts: 17
    I just got back from the garage and they said due to this fan noise I need a new unit which will cost me 245 canadian and they said the noise will get worse.
    Any thoughts?
  • kylitokylito Posts: 17
    Just got back and the garage also said my brake booster is going and should cost me about 500 canadian. I feel with these noises I am being raked over the coals. This car only has 80000km. Any thoughts?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    If the fan noise you hear is just a mild buzz then you do not have a problem. It is supposed to run that way. I would not change it unless it is squealing, smoking or making a lot of noise. I doubt it is a problem. The other noise I can give no advice on at this point.
  • I'm having the same problem with my 99 300M. It usually takes two or thee turns of the key to start. I figured it was the starter. Is this the problem you had? Should i change the relay first?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    See previous messages about starting problem. Mine would hesitate when I turned the key and then after several times it would turnover and start. It was not churning and failing to catch, it would just not do anything until the 2nd or 3rd turn of the key. As it started to get more frequent I first ditched the 4.5 year old battery, then shifted to the ignition relay and starter switch. One of the latter was the problem. I changed em both since the relay was so cheap[$10]. See above for part numbers.
  • 78887888 Posts: 12
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    BFG Traction T/A's. Good reviews---low price.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Goodrich has some good ones [Scorchers; K force?]that will fit and Yoko Avids also were rated good and relatively cheap.
  • 78887888 Posts: 12
    Thanks jayrider! you guys are great! happy holidays!
  • 78887888 Posts: 12
    Again, Thanks BigMike5! you gave me the solution to my last problem and my car is running great! i appreciate you guys for taking the time to respond to my questions! have a happy holiday and a happy new year!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    No sweat. Hope you get a good set at a good price. Ask any time. We have a good base of folks with answers based upon long time experience.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Has anyone tried to insulate their Ms from rattles? My '02 Special rattles from the rear deck and possibly the interior door panels over really rough roads. It's not constant rattling, mind you. It happens when I hit substantial road imperfections.


    I'm also having an annoying squeak from the sunroof. I'm positive that it is the seal drying out. Anyone had to have the seal changed?
  • 2 years ago I was getting squeaks around the doors on my 2000 M. I put Armor All on the black door gaskets and carefully sprayed CRC 556 (similar to WD40) around the edge of the door trim panels where they meet the painted metal part of the door so that it penetrates under the trim panel where it rubs on the paint. Then wipe off the excess that dribbles down. It really quieted things down and is still quiet today. Try the Armor All on the sunroof seal too.
  • Went out to start my 300m and it had no power. I replaced my battery and that gave me power but it would not turn over. It makes a clicking noise and i need help trying to figure this problem out. Please Help!
  • A clicking noise usually indicates a run down battery, especially in cold weather. Where are you located? Did you replace your battery with a new one or a used one? Did it turn over at all with the replacement battery or did it beginning clicking immediately?


    Will it start with a boost? If not, it may need mechanical attention --could be the starter motor.


    Good luck!
  • I replaced the battery. I then tried to start the car and it was making a clicking noise. I then jumped the car and it started. I left it started for about 20 minutes and all of a sudden it shut off. I tried to start it and no power at all. I think it is the altenator, but what dou you think?

    Anthem, AZ
  • Believe me, I am not an expert on these matters...


    I think a new replacement battery should have started your car in the first place. However, in my experience, a weak battery will gain power if the car is left running and the alternator is working. A bad alternator will drain the battery and the car will stop running.


    I would guess it to be a bad alternator (or whatever they call them these days), but I would have thought you would have gotten a dash light if it wasn't charging properly.


    Do you recall any dash lights during the process?
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Change the ignition relay [$10] and then go to the starter switch. [$36 + Labor=$110]. If those fail, and the battery is not a bad one off the shelf, consider the alternator, but do that as a last resort. I don't know if there is a solenoid in there somewhere, but in the old days a clicking noise usually meant a bad solenoid. I do know that the relay and starter switch replacement solved a failure to start problem for me.
  • Hey did u ever find out what was wrong with ur car!! I have a 99M and when i turn it on and take off the speedometer dont move, it makes a funny sound, the check engine light is on, and the car turns off every time i stop, ie: at a light, turning corners, stop signs, but not the fwy, so i took it to the dealership and they cant find out whats wrong with it. they said it might be in the wiring or a sensor or something. Can anyone plzzzzzzzzzzzzz. help
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    What has the dealer done?


    I suggest having the fuel delivery system checked (filter, injectors), check the air filter, and check the throttle position sensor.


    Are you getting any rough vibration before it stalls? If so, I'd also recommend having the transmission checked. Get up to normal speed, put it in Autostick mode, then come to a complete stop to see if it automatically shifts all the way down to first gear.
  • illini4illini4 Posts: 140
    Sounds like the output speed sensor on the transmission - a common problem.
  • mgb564mgb564 Posts: 1
    I have 2004 300M Special. Have experienced same problem at about same mileage (8500 KMS) Took to 5* dealer. They removed complete front cowling, wiper assembly etc. Found poor weld and repaired.

    Have not had a relapse and KMS at 18000. This is not a common problem as suggested by dealer. I know a number of 300M Special owners here in Canada and they have not had this problem. Hope this helps
  • 2001 Chrysler 300M w/ 78,000 miles


    Here's the problem; this has shown up mainly since the weather has gotten colder. When cold starting and attempting to back out of a parking space, when the car is placed in reverse the accelerator pedal cannot be depressed. If its put back in Park and the pedal => forced <= down, it will free up and you can return to reverse and drive/back normally. This has happened a few times now. I've searched TSBs and don't find anything similar. Anyone else experience this or know what the problem might be. It will go to the dealer, but would like to be informed.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Never heard of your issue in 6 years on this board. Doesn't sound like just a lube problem. Must be something really messed up in there. Let us know what the resolution to the problem is.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    You've got ice forming in the line that holds the accelerator cable. With the engine off, squirt some WD40 in it from the engine end and work the accelerator several times. Do it after you've driven the car for a little while, but after the engine has cooled down a little bit and before the cable has time to freeze again.
  • stpoststpost Posts: 4
    I have a 2000 300M, the shift lever seems to be off a little to the right so that the Autostick downshift move to the left travels very slightly. It works, but I wondered if anyone has experienced anything like this before. Dealer or tire shops haven't mentioned anything out of line during alignments or other checkups.
  • stpoststpost Posts: 4
    Not off to the right, I should have said to the left!!!
  • Anyone Have any ideal why My wiper's on My 99 300M won't come on? checked all the fuses,all showed good.Still The motor doesnt even make a sound nor does the wiper fluid come out( yes there is fluid in there).Does it sound like a motor/pump or Electronic problem?Something I should check other than the fuses,before I have to take it in? Any help would be helpful,Its gonna Rain!*smile* Thanks
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 689
    My 2000 service manual says check fuse #5, check PDC (power distribution center) fuse "M", on/off relay, loose-bent-corroded wires/connectors, motor,stripped gears in motor,seized motor bearings, BCM (Body Control Module) bad.


    Nothing complicated, just have to follow the troubleshooting tips.


    PDC fuse is under the hood on the left side in the PDC (which has a rectangular top). It is a 40 amp fuse.


    Manuals help!!!!! Good Luck.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    I just had my intermittent wiper control not working correctly so they changed a module in it for a couple of hundred, covered by an extended warranty. I will post the part tomorrow, I have the number at work. Maybe your module has failed. By the way the change for me did not completely solve the problem. It is a little better but not the way it normally was. I'll take it back for the next service and see if anything else would be worth trying. I just figured the rotating control on the turn stalk had worn out after 6+ years, but they didn't try to change that. What do I know?
  • buishbuish Posts: 2
    How do I remove the center dash speaker in my chrysler 300m which is blown? What type of speaker will i be able to replace it with. Will i need any special tool for this job.
  • buishbuish Posts: 2
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Go back around message 140 +/- in July 04, there is a lot of discussion on this such as: Message #137 Re: muttray (center speaker) [funroads #136] by muttray Jul 06, 2004 (11:49 am)

    I have the blown one removed now. It was very easy to do with the help from the good folks on this ... to pry up the left side of the most forward dash cover under the windshield to get access to the speaker. I used a phillips driver in a 1/4 inch ratchet to get the screws out so I wouldn't have ... previous posts on here and get a good source and recommendation for replacements. If anyone has recent speaker recommendations, they would be appreciated!

    (Mine speakers are still fine in my almost 1 yr old 2004 M, but I recalled covering it up after reading those posts last summer and it does make a difference in sound coverage when it goes out, must but the large window glass or something ... I had a late 90s Caravan and don't recall a center speaker but it may have been there and I just never knew what it was).

    Dave in SE MN
  • After going back and checking the fuses,One was noticed missing,I replaced it and Now I can't get the wipers to shut off!(maybe thats why it was missing?)The wipers work and Iam able to turn them down to delayed, But it won't shut off completely.Any ideas? Thanks.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 689
    Possible problems

    1. Short in motor wiring

    2. Bad wiper on/off relay

    3. wiper switch

    4. defective BCM


    according to service manual
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I've been hit with a problem, guys. My RB1 sort of died on me this morning. It's the strangest thing. I started the car this morning and it worked fine. When I turned the car off and restarted it, the display didn't come on and it was frozen on one radio station. I thought maybe it was just frozen (like Windows). None of the buttons worked. I turned the car off and restarted it and nothing worked. Didn't even play anything.


    I took it out, disconnected the power, reconnected the power, and it seemed to work fine. Turned the power off and back on and it was the same symptoms. I thought maybe the car needed a reboot, so I disconnected the negative battery cable for about 30 minutes. I reconnected the cable tried it and, again, it seemed to work fine. I turned the power off and back on and, you guessed it, exact same symptoms. I'm pretty bummed out right now. I hate the thought of spending another $1500 for another RB1! I've got the other radio, but I'm actually scared to test it for fear that it might turn out that I DO need to buy another RB1!
  • Check Ebay it will be less expensive. Be sure to get a guaranteed unit.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 689
    Check power to the radio by meter or hooking up the old radio. That will quickly isolate the problem.
  • The following interior electricals do not work on my 2000 300M: interior lights, power mirrors, CD player and changer, radio, clock. In addition the remote door locking and unlocking does not work and the factory installed alarm system cannot be activated remotely or by key in either front door. Finally, the climate control system is funky, resetting to a default setting each time the car is started, but not accurately responding to manual settings. These problems began following a short of the system caused by an attempted break-in through my front passenger side door, which broke off the wire attached to the door locking mechanism. The wire dangled and swayed within the door for awhile, causing the system to short out intermittently for days, before it finally shorted out for good, blowing a large fuse. The dealer replaced the fuse, but did not find the cause. When a car fire nearly started from melting wires in the interior compartment, another mechanic traced the burned wires, found the initial problem, replaced all parts and fuses. Everything seemed fine at first, but after a few days, the system began to intermittently fail and within two weeks was completely nonfunctional. Do you think the Body control Module was damaged, or does it need to be re-booted? How are these BCM's re-booted anyway?

    Thanks, for any input you have. DH
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Well, I tried the old one and it seems to work flawlessly. I'm screwed! I think I need a new RB1. :-( Weird thing is, so far it seems that if I turn the radio off before turning the car off and turn it on after I start the car, it works fine. I sure don't want to have remember to do that from now on.


    I guess I'm paying the price of getting a refurbished unit at a reduced price. I bought it from Lee Auto over the internet. They didn't disclose that it was a refurbished unit, but it was $200 less than the Mopar MSRP. Had to be a reason, but I was so excited at the price, I didn't care.(Now it looks like I'm going to end up paying a total of $2990 [$1395 for this one + $1595 for a new one] when I should've just spent the $1595 to begin with!!) When I first installed it, the first few days when it booted up, it would display the Jeep logo followed briefly by the Chrysler logo. After a few days, it began to display the Chrysler logo exclusively.


    Is there a way to reset the RB1, other than disconnecting the power? How long should the power be disconnected?


    I'm totally bummed. That dang RB1 has become invaluable to us! Not to mention all the addresses and some of our favorite destinations saved in it...


    Oh, woe is me! Sure hope one of you guys has some good ideas!
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    What the heck is an RB1? Please educate the ignorant.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    What??? You, of all people, should know what that is! (or am I thinking of 300michael with all the stereo and appearance mods?) The RB1 is the Chrysler navigation unit.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Looks like my extended boot time theory is wrong. Now it won't come on at all. The CD changer will go through its commotion (always has), but the nav unit is dead in the water unless I keep disconnecting the power. I haven't disconnected it since last weekend. Guess it's time to get an Infiniti M45.
  • tloke1tloke1 Posts: 185
    How long ago did you buy the unit?


    What is the Ebay username you bought it from, a private part or business? Seems you should have some recourse if it is a business, especially since it was misrepresented as new.


    Brand new RB1 units can be bought from authorized dealers for around $1300.00. I have seen units on Ebay go for around $650-$800, even new ones from reliable sellers for under $900.00.


    If you do not have any recourse from the seller then sounds like the unit is going to have to go into the shop, I have an address I can dig up for the service center for the RB1 radios if you need it.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Yes, I'd love to have the number.

    I bought it from Lee Auto out of NJ over the 'net. I'd really like to be able to have it fixed, but I just don't see it happening. Electronics rarely come out in "like new" condition when they go in. Just afraid of spending a few hundred dollars for a $20 dollar (or less) fix just for it to die again in six months when I could just ante up and buy a new one again.

    I'll gladly take the names of some reputable seller that will sell me a NEW one at $1300 or less.
  • bigmike5bigmike5 Posts: 960
    Nah, not me. I never knew anything about Nav units except I have heard of the Street Pilot. Maybe you can exchange it through the dealer for another unit for a reduced price on the replacement. I had that offered to me on my CD unit when it was malfunctioning. The dealer said I could get a reduced price by giving them the old unit in exchange. Fortunately, I tried a cleaning disc and it stopped the skipping so I didn't do it.
This discussion has been closed.