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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • have you had anymore trouble? i replaced crank sensor a month ago, worked great for a month and just did it again. replaced it again to no avail, do know what to do next. any help would be great. thanks
  • did you have anymore problems with stalling. had mine replaced twice and is doing it again. cam sensor? dont know what to do next
  • Mine is doing it also-- worse lately. Wish someone would find the answer and let us know Thanks Roger
  • It's the fuel pump, I went through everything with my 99 300m. High speed stalls, it would always start up fine 30 minutes later. I changed crank, cam and o2 sensors. It was the fuel pump. Very intermittant at first, drove 1000 miles after the sensor change and thought I had fixed it. I was running it on empty to prepare to change the pump when it failed completely. No problems since the fuel pump was replaced, except of course the usual. tranny speed sensors, a/c evaporator, window regulator brackets, engine cooloing fan, starter motor, moon roof track, warped rotors, front wheel bearings, all in between 60,000 and 80,000 miles
  • kenrevkenrev Posts: 1
    I have a 2004 300M and I use automatic to turn on my headlights. Lately when I start the car at night the headlights go on but I have no dashlights. The only thing that is lit is the odometer and the clock. I can stop and start later and will have dash lights. I have switched the selector to manually turn on the headlights but still have no dash lights.
    Has anybody had this problem ?
  • Your experience is similar to mine with the windows, tranny sensor, electric fan, and now the fuel pump. Haven't had the starter yet. Moonroof okay. Brakes ok. Thanks for the reply. BTW the fuel pump is in the tank? what does that cost to replace? Roger/Nashville
  • duffer65duffer65 Posts: 5
    I have the opposite problem with my wheels--they keep gaining pressure. I have a 2003 300M and the Michelin MX4 Plus tires. I can set the pressure (cold) at 30-32 lbs in the garage and a few months later the tire sensors will start blinking at 45 lbs (confirmed by a tire pressure gauge). I stay within the speed limits and they will reach this pressure even under moderate fall temperatures. Has anyone every experienced this with this tire/wheel combo?
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Getting my first set of tires --- got 50K out of the michelins. Has anyone had issues with making sure the wheel balance weights are compatible with the rim profile. I see that chrysler has specially designated coated wheel weights for concordes and 300Ms and wonder if most tire shops have them or are even aware that they may be a specialty application. Are these weights really that unique or do most shops have coated weights that will fit. If cosmetics are the only issue, then I guess they could be installed on the inside of the wheel. Any advice would be appreciated.
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Searched this forum and found some info. Seems it is important -- some shops have the right weights and some don't. Local Sam's says they do so we'll see.
  • My 99 300M 90k miles has been dying while cruising for about 1 yr. Worse recently and once took several minutes to restart on a hot day.
    After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---.
    I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days.
    Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used.
    I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then
    I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes).
    Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws.
    I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack.
    The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank.
    Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull.
    Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly.
    Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube.
    Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc.
    This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
  • My 99 300M 90k miles has been dying while cruising for about 1 yr. Worse recently and once took several minutes to restart on a hot day.
    After following the discussions here I bit the bullet and replaced the fuel pump myself. So far several days and 100 miles --no stalls ---.
    I bought the fuel pump at Drivewire.com for $155 delivered in 3 days.
    Mine was the pre-12/2000 model car. This pump replaces an older model with a metal top and ground wire. The ground wire is not used.
    I backed the car on ramps inserted safety lifts and then
    I drained the tank thru the plastic plug --easy. (Remember no electrical lights & stuff and undo the negative battery post because of gas fumes).
    Undo the filler tube where you add gas -3 screws.
    I undid the 4 bolts (13mm) for the metal tank stays. Then undid the sway bar bolts 2 short and 2 long and supported the tank on a car jack. Watch the tension on the electrical line where it is held on the right side heat shield. Undo the shield on that side to add slack.
    The tank falls down 18" and with the rt side lower you can get to the pump assbly in the left upper rear tank.
    Carefully undo the electrical connector- slide the red tab to one side and pinch it up and pull. (Look at one to AC compressor under hood to see how it works.) The fuel line connector is simply pinch in the blue plastic and pull.
    Clean around the pump and then unscrew the top --use a plastic handle screwdriver to tap and start-- and remove noting placement. The seal ring rests on the edge of the opening --careful to replace correctly.
    Insert the pump and tighten the screw top holder. Reconnect the electric and fuel line. Lift the tank back up and tighten the metal stays. and sway bar. Screw the 3 screws to the filler tube.
    Connect battery add gas and start. It might have to crank a minute to fill lines etc.
    This may have solved the problem for me and doing it myself saved ~$200+. Hope this helps someone. Good Luck!
  • I have a 99 m and I think that i'm idling to low it kinda of had a Hiccup the other day like it wanted to die and it didn't but it almost did.
    I'm not sure if it idles lower than its supposed to or not. When its in gear and i'm stopped at a light it'll idle at 600rpm when its in park it'll idle at 800rpm. Is this normal?

    Has anyone had this happen before. Also when I idle the a/c fan will slow down but as soon as I start to drive it will blow harder. I'm at a lost and I don't want to take it to the dealer. Any help would be appreciated.
  • Sorry to report it stalled twice this AM -last time took 10 minutes to restart. Evidently the fuel pump replacement was not the answer.
    My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor?
    I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself? [email protected]
  • Sorry to report it stalled twice this AM -last time took 10 minutes to restart. Evidently the fuel pump replacement was not the answer.
    My check engine light has come on so maybe an error code will show a faulty sensor?
    I will follow up with my findings --hope this helps someone else. Btw - can I replace the Cam and crank sensors myself?
  • I bought the cam and crank sensors at Chrysler - $45 and $90. The mechanic at Chrysler said the cam fails more so I had Pep boys replace it for me -$88. The car stalled on the drive home so I put it up on ramps and changed the crank sensor-- very simple.
    Now I have replaced the fuel pump and both sensors -- hope it works. I will report back in a week or so.
    (BTW the crank sensor did have a tiny hole in the plastic covering about the AC plug.) Roger /Nashville
  • Followup report--- Stalling --must have been the crank sensor as it has not stalled in four hot days and 200 miles. (Remember it had a hole in the plastic covering). Hope this helps someone else with a stalling Concorde or 300M. Roger/Nashville
  • Your idle of 600 rpm in gear and 800 rpm in park is normal. I wouldn't worry about the fan speed unless you find the car is not maintaining the correct inside temperature.

    Any problems I have ever had with stalling or potential stalling with 4 300M's (my wife and I each have had 2) have been electronic. It always seems to be the sensors that fail.
  • All gages have failed : fuel, odometer, tachometer, Engine coolant temperature guage, Transmission Range Indicator, & Odometer/Trip Odometer
  • jayriderjayrider Posts: 3,602
    Replying to an old posting--just starting to feel a pulsating when braking on my 02. With 50k I'm betting the rotors are warped. You said you had yours turned every 35K. Who did you have do the work and were the pads replaced as well? Local dealer will match prices on repairs but don't know if I need to go to them or a brake specialist. Just changed tires---maybe over torqued on the lug nuts?
  • After the BCM was replaced in my 2000 300M, the security system no longer actuates when the doors are locked; when the car is started, it flashes showing it is working. Is there a way to turn off/on the security system? :confuse:
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    The security system is activated when you lock the doors. Is it not honking the horn anymore when you lock it? If so, read the owner's manual. There's a procedure to turn that feature back on. It's a series of key twists that I can't remember.

    To test that it is indeed working, lock the car with the fob, then use the key in the door to unlock it, and open the door. The alarm should sound.
  • I have a 99 300M that has just recently started having a problem with the brakes. Pressure keeps changing on them- sometimes I have to press really hard. Other times, brakes go down under my foot without my pressing. Mechanic thought it was master cylinder, but that is not problem. Pads, rotors, etc are all replaced. Mechanic spent all day and can't find anything. Car is drivable but we are concerned.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Sounds like air in the brake lines.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It's your power brake booster or a vacuum leak in the line that controls the power brake booster. Classic symptoms.
  • I will call mechanic and have them check this! Thank you for your responses.
  • Unfortunately that is not it. They are replacing the master cylinder just in case. If that doesn't work, they give up.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I wonder if trash in the ABS lines would cause this? Before you start sending their kids through medical school, have them completely flush the brake system.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    If you get a very hard pedal sometimes they need to guess again...
  • the check engine light comes on when I start the car I changed the egr valve in it and it went away until today, I had a friend search for a code and we found PO456 and couldn't find that particular code my buddy thought it could be a gas cap thing, it did indicate a small leak, but in the list of the codes it didn't have PO456,weird what could it be??????
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    P0456 Nothing Listed
    P0465 Purge Flow Sensor Circuit Malfunction
    P0546 Nothing Listed
    P0564 Nothing Listed
    P0645 Air Conditioning (A/C) Clutch Relay Control Circuit
    P0654 Engine RPM Output Circuit Malfunction
  • I HAD A ISSUE BEING IN THE AUTO STICK AND
    > > SHIFTING
    > > > > THE OUT OF IT. THEN
    > > > > THE ENGINE LIGHT CAME ON. IT SEEMED TO HAD BEEN
    > > > > STUCK IN A GEAR, NOT
    > > > > SURE OF WHICH ONE. I TOOK IT TOO FIRESTONE TO
    > > HAVE
    > > > > THEM CHECK IT. THESE
    > > > > ARE THE CODES PO700 & PO1776......TRANSMISSION
    > > > > CODE/SWITCHING VALUE.
    > > > > FREE FRAME READ 6000RPM IN 3RD GEAR. THEY
    > > CLEARED
    > > > > THEM AND RELEARN
    > > > > COMPUTER. LIGHT HAS CAME BACK ON. SOME
    > > HESITATION,
    > > > > THE DISPLAY LIGHTS
    > > > > UP WITH BOXES AROUND ALL THE GEARS AND WONT
    > > SHIFT.
    > > > >
    > > > > IS THIS MAJOR OR IS THIS SOMETHING TO DO WITH
    > > > > INPUT/OUTPUT SENSORS OR
    > > > > SOMETHING ELSE......I HOPE THE TRANSMISSION
    > > ISN'T
    > > > > GOING BAD.
    > > > >
    > > > > I KNOW FIRESTONE DOESNT DUE TRANSMISSION.....BUT
    > > > > THEY NOTED IT MAY NEED
    > > > > TRANS OVERHAUL.............CAN SOME
    > > > > HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!! BEFORE I TAKE IT
    > > > > TO THE DEALER......IT HAS 90,700 MILES ON
    > > > > IT....THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!!
    > > > >
    > > > >
    > > > > PLEASE LET ME KNOW.......I WANT TO KEEP MY
    > > > > CAR!!!!!!!!!!!
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    2004 300M bought new Mar 04. I had the check engine light come on about a day or so after filling with gas, it would go away after a few engine on/off cycles AFTER tightening the GAS CAP. So I was sure it was the "gas cap thing", but the dealer insisted they needed to check it out. Sure enough, it was a bad (intermittent?) cam sensor problem & they replaced the sensor, totally coincidental about the gas cap even though it did that 3 times. Both my wife and I had it lurch/stumble once each so I was suspicious something worse was amiss, I guess the dealer had the correct hunch on this one. First real fail in 30 months & 29,000 miles since new, if I go another 30 mons w/o anything I will feel just fine! The only thing I am watching is the engine started using just under a quart of oil in 3000 mile oil changes, not sure if anyone else has experienced this minor oil usage or especially if it gets worse with age.
  • have the input and output speed sensors changed in the tran.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    My '02 Special burns a good bit of oil between oil changes. It burned 1qt between 3K mile changes and even more now that I'm on 5K mile changes. I use full synthetic. I have no clue where the oil goes because the car doesn't smoke and the oil is in relatively good shape when I check it. It's still a good shade of brown and there is no fuel odor to it. :confuse:

    I did 7500 mile intervals twice, but had to drop back down to 5K miles because it was burning almost all the oil at 7500 miles. The dealer says it's normal to burn a quart in 3K miles. Whatever. :sick:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    That's really fairly normal, a quart in 3,000 miles, I wouldn't worry about it unless it got worse and quickly. Just keep an eye on it. If it stays at 1 qt @ 3,000 miles for the next 10,000 miles, then forget about it, you're fine. But if you find the oil consumption keeps going up and up and up, then I'd be more apt to worry, If it hits a quart at 1,500 miles, I would have a cylinder leakdown test done immediately.
  • naatz1naatz1 Posts: 188
    Thanks to both you and tayl0rd as well, I have seen you on this site for some time. That makes me feel a bit better, so I will obviously watch it. What was strange is it did not burn hardly any oil but just started at around 20K miles this spring (we took a 3K mile trip out east so at first I attributed it to long days of hi speed driving but it's still doing it). My 01 Grand Cherokee with ancient 4L I6 burns zero oil at 75K miles. However I had a 94 Pontiac that started burning around 36K when going out of the General's limited warranty of those days and eventually gave out with only 110K miles (was value guide oil seals and would cost as much to fix as car was worth since it had other problems too). So I am a bit paranoid but I do have the 7/70 on the 300M, still considering if I want to add one of the extended warranties but hard to justify yet with stellar quality so far! Thanks again.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Perhaps for your own protection just mention the oil consumption so that they at least put it on your service order...that way you have a record of having made this complaint...
  • Manual says security system is disarmed when the fob or key is used; this suggestion did not work. Anyone know about arming the security system?
  • btgpbtgp Posts: 2
    We had our engine light come on and discovered (when went to dealer, still have warranty) that they said we had carbon in our fuel line and so the light came on. We thougth they were full of [non-permissible content removed] and thought how does carbon get in the fuel line?? Well 8 mths later, came on again. Same explanation for dealer/service and then it occured to me that my husband had fueled the car up with it still running. Also before! That solved our dilemma, turn the car off!! If you followed our stupidity, then there is your problem. Hope this helps someone!!
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Ok. Sit in the car, use the key fob to lock the doors (arming the system), then open a door from inside the car. The alarm should sound.
  • lost power to front passenger window and mirror, started with window not rolling down. replaced motor and switches same problem but window has no power up now. HELP
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Sounds like Body Control Module might be on the way out, or a bad relay or ground.
  • were are the relays and module located
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    The relays are under the hood in the fuse box. I believe the BCM is located behind the passenger kick panel.
  • My 2001 recently started stalling when I stop quickly from highway speed, say for a stop light. It just dies. I can put it in neutral and start it again and go. It's intermittent and doesn't do it if I gradually decelerate. Any ideas?....Mike
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    I believe it was said that is a symptom of a bad crank sensor. Do a search for "crank sensor."
  • My 2001 stalls when quickly decelerating from highway speeds like when I have to stop for an intersection. It doesn't do it if I gradually slow down, and it's intermittent. Is that similar to what yours was doing?....Mike
  • I have two in the same spot.
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Try cleaning out the throttle body with a good cleaner that is ok for emission control sensors.
  • Own 2004 300M. The check engine indicator light came on last week. My mechanic ran the codes (two emissions codes came up - don't know what they are) and told me nothing was wrong, everything was okay. He reset the system and told me to drive the car. By the time I got home the check engine light was on again and the car would stall at red lights and while sitting in traffic. My mechanic replaced the sensor thinking it was a bad sensor. Four days later the light is on again. I don't gas up with the car running and, as a matter of fact, I have not put gas in the car since I took it back from my mechanic.
This discussion has been closed.