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Chrysler 300M: Problems & Solutions

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Comments

  • patg2patg2 Posts: 24
    I'm not sure if this is the right forum, but my 2000 300M was totaled and the insurance company wants to give me $9100...does this seem like a fair price? it has 80,000 miles and in good mechanical condition with 4 new tires...thanks...pat :sick:
  • The double fan unit cost $127 on eBay and took me 2 hrs to install largely to try and get the four screw bolts that hold the fan to the back of the radiator. I took off one small top water line but did not have to loose any radiator fluid. I got the top two screws from the top and jacked up the front end and got the bottom two from below. I did not take the radiator out.
    Sends to be working fine. I probably saved $400. BTW the shaft of one fan was getting loose in the unit and it was hitting the shroud some. Hope this helps someone. Roger
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    $9,100 seems fair enough, maybe you could ask for $9,500 but if they stonewall you aren't being cheated.
  • Strange things goin on here. One night while driving down the highway at 60 mph, the motor stalls and all lights go dim but not out. As I am coasting to find a good place to pull over the lights go back to normal and the engine is running again. The abnormal condition lasted 20-30 seconds. The rest of the night and next day everything is fine. However, the next night the exact same thing happens. Since both times it happened when the headlights were on and the AC compressor was running, I suspected the battery. Sure enough the battery connectors were corroded to the point that I replaced them and installed a new battery. All is fine for 3 weeks. Today the car stalls in the daytime with AC on while cruising at 60 mph. I get roadside and it will not start. Turns over fine but seems like no spark. I also noticed that the accelerator pedal will not move. After 5 minutes of sitting it starts and runs fine. Then after getting off work it will not start again after several attempts. Ten minutes later it starts and runs fine. It is now parked until I get to the bottom of this. Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • I have heard others here talk of fuel pump problems causing similar situations. Someone suggested hitting the gas tank where the pump is with a club. Mine occ. stutters while steady driving. Search the fuel pump notes and see if you find similar. Keep us informed. Good Luck!
  • laurasdadalaurasdada Posts: 3,458
    I traded my '99 M after 5.5 years of ownership and ~67,000 miles on the odo. I had to haggle to ultimately get $6k on trade (w/tax savings $6300). Of course, I was trading at an Acura dealer where the above mentioned M was not exactly a highly desired trade. One large used car lot offered me $5k. So, $9100 doesn't seem terrible. Great car but, unfortunately for resale, it is a Chrysler.

    Yes, old-timers still lurking here, I still miss my M. But dig my TL just as much!

    '13 Jaguar XF, possibly my favorite of all the cars I've owned. But, my '09 Jag XK was a beauty, as was my '05 Acura TL, '88 Acura Integra, '84 Mitsubishi Mirage Turbo & '78 VW Scirocco (my first!). And, of course, the '92 Nissan Sentra SE-R and '95 Saab 900s I bought for the ex... Ok, I like a lot of the cars in my life.

  • scotianscotian Posts: 1,064
    You can remove the housing and the bulbs and pour a liquid into the light housing and swish it around the inside of the lens. You could even stick a long tool with a soft cloth end if you want. You have to choose a liquid that will clean the lens without harming it or the chrome reflector.
  • leweilleweil Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 300M that has had problems with stalling since we purchased 3 years ago. The battery was replaced two times a sensor for the motor was replaced. We just got the car back after being in the shop for 5 days. They could not find anything wrong. Within hours the car had died 3 times while driving.
  • leweilleweil Posts: 2
    I have a 2004 300M that has had problems with stalling since we purchased 3 years ago. The battery was replaced two times a sensor for the motor was replaced. We just got the car back after being in the shop for 5 days. They could not find anything wrong. Within hours the car had died 3 times while driving. We just want the problem fixed any ideas?
  • you may want to check the crank sensor, i just had to replace mine on my 99m. i had the problem of my car stalling after reaching running temp, and i would have to wait until cooldown until it would restart. hope this works for you
  • What is the crank sensor. How is it checked and replaced. Mine 99M has occ. stalled the last two years. Thanks? roger
  • How difficult is changing the dryer and the orifice tube? Where is the dryer sitting? roger
  • nutznutz Posts: 3
    My front 6.5 speakers and center speaker are blown. I'm looking at buying quality new speakers off ebay, but not sure what to buy or what will work. I don't even know what size the center speaker is, or what would have to be done to install what ever speakers I buy. Any suggestions or opinions on what has worked in your car or good insight on questions is greatly appreciated!!
  • nutznutz Posts: 3
    I have used 250 watt pioneer 6x9, and not sure if they would sound anybetter than stock infinitys already in use. Also, what would have to be changed in order to hook up my pioneer speakers? Thanks
  • gsloatgsloat Posts: 2
    I was told to replace both my inner tie rods today cost of about $576.00. I think I can fix cheaper. I have no extended warranty. Both inner tie rods are $44.99 at autozone, the bushings were $20.00, the tool to remove tie rods rents for $30.00(with money back upon return). I will repair myself just not really sure how. Do you know?
  • nutznutz Posts: 3
    My 99 300M makes a clunking noise when traveling over small bumps. The noise isn't unbearable, but diffenetly noticable. I have lifetime strutts from my dealer ship witch is what I thought the problem was from, but the dealer wouldn't replace them and said it was a sway bar or something instead. Is he right or should I be upset? Thanks for any help!!
  • hayneldanhayneldan Posts: 657
    Check your front stabilizer bar bushings
  • caryjoecaryjoe Posts: 3
    :lemon: InJune of 2003 I purchased my 1999 300m. It was beautiful.I only drove the car 1 time a week until April of 2004. At that time, the computer down shifted the transmission to low. I found water in the transmission. I thought the transmission was bad so I Parked it until November of 2004 when I could afford to have it repaired. The repair shop put in a new radiatior, flushed the transmission and reset the computer for $1200. Then in May of 2005--2 minutes after pulling off of the freeway @ pulling into a parking lot, I could not back out of the parking stall. The steering wheel turned but the wheels would not turn. The bolts were sheared off to the steering cylinder in front of the the firewall. This cost $1100 to repair. Then the dash board started to crack on the passenger side. In August of 2005 I pulled into the driveway and noticed the dust cap was off of the hubcap on the front passenger side. I discovered the axel nut holding the wheel on had spun off and was laying in the wheel cavity. ( I am luck the wheel didn't fall off during driving!) In the winter of 2005 I noticed the car howled when starting when it was cold out. In December I checked the Transmission fluid and found it was pink like Pepto Bismo again. The warranty had expired on the new radiator. In Februrary it complely locked the transmission into low gear again. Now in May my car is still parked. I think that I will flush the transmission and put stop leak in the radiator and then flush the tranny every 6 mos from now on. It is still cheaper tan putting in a third radiator. I have also had problems with the dome light blinking on and off during driving, the passenger windo not going up at times and the car shudders at times like going over small speed bumps. The crack on the dashboard is now up to 10 inches. The only good thing is in 3 days I will make my last payment on this cursed car. I would unload the car but my wife absolutely loves the looks of the car! Anyone have any ideas about my radiator / transmission problem?
  • bgburban01bgburban01 Posts: 2
    My gas tank is making a wierd whistleing noise and when I open the gas cap you hear a vacume release and some times the gas tank some what collapses from this vacume. Almos like the tank is not venting? Anyone had this problem?
  • bgburban01bgburban01 Posts: 2
    I took my 300 into the dealership for warranty work and they ran a diagnosis and found the problem. It was a "purge control solenoid". The solenoid was found stuck in the open possition causing the tank not to vent. Luckly I have a warranty or else this would have cost me a few hundred bucks.
  • bluesdudebluesdude Posts: 3
    Do you know which sensor was replaced? I understand there is a crank sensor and a cam sensor, but the cam sensor will not cause a stall. Also if battery terminal corrosion was a problem, the cables may also be bad.
  • caryjoecaryjoe Posts: 3
    This is the second time that we are experiencing pink (Pepto Bismo Looking) water in the transmission of our 1999 Chrysler 300M. The last time we took the car in to the shop and they replaced the radiator, flushed out the transmission and torque converter.They then reset the computor which had locked the transmission into low. It has only been 1 year since this occured the last time. This is something that would be very rare to happen one time let alone twice. What could be happening? Please help us before we spend $2000 more dollars getting this fixed again. The 1 year warrenty on the work has just run out. Any advise would be appreciated.
    Desperate in Puyallup, WA :confuse:
  • dcb4dcb4 Posts: 1
    I have a 2001 300m and my wife says it's started "Slamming" out of gear at highway speeds and now it's started doing it in town. She swears she hasn't touched the shift lever. Any ideas? :confuse:
  • Does anyone know the part # for the driver seat memory module for a 2002 m? I would like to purchase one and My Chrysler dealer can't help me without a part # any help would be appreciated. Thanks Jonathan
  • We have found the problem with the alarm system, causing the system to go into alarm after sitting for some time.
    The problem was a bad switch in the truck door, the switch was diagnosed and replaced by Superstition Springs Chrysler in Mesa, AZ and it seems to be working perfectly again.

    We found the problem with the slow starting
    The fuel pump and the associated fuel pressure regulator/valve which is located in the fuel tank went bad.
    This was confirmed by a very good fuel injection outfit (not the dealer). This again was replaced by Superstition Springs Chrysler and the car starts like it used to and runs well again.
  • Does anybody know the correct PSI for a 1999 300M AC pressure for the high & low sides at the AC compressor ports?
  • caryjoecaryjoe Posts: 3
    Please help me find out out why my 1999 Chrysler 300m has pink water in the radiator agian. This is the second time in one and a half years!!! When it happens the car becomes stuck in second and is impossible to drive. They replaced the radiator, flushed the tranny and torque converter and charged us $2000. Now that the warrenty has expired, the exact problem has recurred. What is Wrong?? Please help us. We have had numerous problems with this car. It is a beautiful, classy car but odd things keep happening. What in the world caused this problem. WE NEED HELP! :mad:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Sounds like a cracked lower radiator tank (the part that cools the transmission fluid but is supposed to be separate from the coolant tank in the radiator). The two fluids are mixing. This appears to be what happened last time to you.
  • vas002vas002 Posts: 2
    I have a 2002 300M and I have a popping noise in the radio, it happens all the time even with the motor turned off. The popping noise is comming from the front dash speaker, when I turn the fader to the rear speakers it still pops, it pops in CD, Radio, and tape player.
    Any Ideas ?
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Bad ground or possibly a loose antenna connection.
  • vas002vas002 Posts: 2
    Thanks I'll give it a try.
    THANKS AGAIN~!
    vas002
  • dscottrdscottr Posts: 1
    Battery had corrosion around terminals and car wouldn't start. Jumped it then took to repair shop where new terminals put on ends of cables. Now the radio has no power. CD, EQ, Cassette all don't work. No lights on radio. Only the radio itself works but with weak signal and no power amplification at all so there is no balance, fader, eq, zilch. Car is '99 300m with factory 300w infinity system. Is there a code to reset? My keyless entry died following this as well but somehow it suddenly started working fine once I accidentally set off the alarm and started the car to stop it. :confuse:
  • ctfangctfang Posts: 3
    i just purchased a 99 300M and noticed the steering wheel is loose or "has play" approx 1.5 to 2" before it catches. Is this normal for this vehicle or do I have a problem? Another concern: The ignition turns over but it wont start until the second try. Any advice welcome. :confuse:

    ">99 M has 31K and a new tranny.
  • Hi,
    Just wanted to let you know of a problem we had :sick: My 300 would only blow cool air. Well, we vaccumed it down recharged it, still the same.Oh! The first time we added freon.Anyway, we went got the gauges etc to do the more extesive work.Well, when the vaccuming & recharing didnot work, my husband got to thinking about the hot water line not closing.Long story short, he put the air on bilevel, floor & vents , we had cold air for the top & warm for the bottom. I did this a couple of time moving the temp up & down getting the dampers? to close & it worked. We've got ice cold air now. I hope that this can help someone not blow alot of money or have a hard time like we did. :)
    Donny&Patti
  • My 99 300M is having more frequent engine stalls over the past 6 mos. Particularly at a low cruise speed the engine just dies. I would appreciate anyones experience as I will need to do something soon. Fuel Pump -Crank Sensor ??? Thanks Roger/Nashville
  • kristagkristag Posts: 1
    I have been having the same problem, I had the fuel injectors cleaned and put in new spark plugs (they were needed) but that didn't help. I have had it stall and not want to start again while I was on the freeway going 75-80 mph. If you figure it out let me know, we are kind of at a loss here.
  • tayl0rdtayl0rd Posts: 1,926
    Throttle body, maybe?
    Fuel filter?
    Fuel pump?
    Air filter?
  • lelalela Posts: 1
    I am having this same problem. I've tried different pumps, nothing helps. If anyone else has had this problem and found a solution, please let me know.
  • aklotzekaklotzek Posts: 1
    Hi.... I am also working through that same problem on a 2001 model. Started about 2 months ago. I have not replaced at this time as no one can seem to tell me what the problem is. Have you had any luck in figuring this out.
  • I have just purchased an '01 Chrysler 300m and I am having this same problem. I would like to know what the problem is (fuel injector etc.) For my car, the problem is ALL the time. No matter how long it sits or doesn't sit, it will turn over but will not stay on. Sometimes it will take 5 times to get it to stay on sometime only one, but the problem is there. I would like to know what to look at so I can try and fix this problem. I hope I'm not stuck with a :lemon: ! I've tried pumping the gas to get the injector going and not pumping it...I"m at a loss! And I don't have a lot of money to get the stupid thing fixed (having just bought it) so I would like to know the right direction to start looking
  • This happened to me with my 2003 300M last year sometime. As I recall, it was electronic (probably a sensor) and I had it repaired under warranty. Sorry, don't know what it cost.
  • A starter switch in the steering wheel base on these goes out and it is an easy repair. Ask the dealer for the part after reading the past posts. It has been a couple of years since I did this and dont remember the details but should be in this forum somewhere. Of course wait till it gets worse. Good Luck!
  • I have a 2001 Chrysler 300M. My wife and I loved the car until the transmission went out at 45000 miles. A variety of problems have occurred since that time. Here is the one that continues to puzzle me and my mechanic, who has looked the car over at least 3 times and cannot find the problem……and therefore he doesn’t know how to fix. I hope someone here can give me a solution or at least provide some insight.

    When cranking cold my car will not start immediately. It will try to crank for approx 3-5 seconds then it will fire up but run “rough” for another 3-5 seconds then smooth out and runs fine after that, good acceleration, etc. It always has a funny gas like smell from the exhaust when it does this as well. If I turn the car off and try to recrank it will fire up immediately….so it seems to be a cold start problem only. My mechanic of 25 plus years cannot figure out what is going on here. He has cleaned the injectors which he originally thought was the problem and checked everything else under the sun, fuel pressure, fuel pump, etc etc. all to no avail. He said whatever the problem it is not serious enough to trigger the “check engine light” so therefore the car’s computer is not sending out any codes. He said he could think of several things that it “might” be but they were all too expensive to be a “trial and error approach” to fixing the car. To date the car has never left me stranded although I am concerned this will eventually happen. It is quite embarrassing when in the parking lot and everyone is looking at you cause your motor is turning over for 5 seconds prior to finally firing up. I would be most appreciative if someone could give me an idea as to what is going on here. My car still only has 56000 miles on it and is paid for so I don’t want to start over with a new car for a while but my wife is adamant about getting this fixed. I don’t blame her. Can anyone help me?
  • bluesdudebluesdude Posts: 3
    Replaced the crank sensor 4 weeks ago and have had no further problems
  • ewleighewleigh Posts: 1
    I have just experienced the same problem with my 2000 M and am very worried at how expensive this is going to be. What were some of the problems you encountered with this. I have noticed that when I start slowing down my car shakes and the driver side tire is very unstable. This happened all within one week. I have already had so much repaired within the last month. Any help is much appreciated.
  • koryokoryo Posts: 1
    anyone know the socket size to take the axle nut off to replace the wheeele baring?
  • achase1achase1 Posts: 1
    How do you remove the headlights?
  • je2788je2788 Posts: 1
    Hello all,

    I have been having a recurring problem with my 99 300M that the tires keep losing pressure (this happens on all 4 wheels and I have to add air several times a week). I have been told by several local tire places that it is because of the aluminum wheels - here in snow country, the salt on the roads get into the wheels and corrode them, causing the seal between the wheels and the tires to break causing leaks. And at $40 each time I need to have the tires taken off, wheels scrubbed down to remove the corrossion, and then the tires put back on, it's costing me a fortune.

    The guy at my local tire place of choice said that they get 6 to 10 cars a DAY with this problem. He was pretty adamant that car companies shouldn't be selling aluminum wheels in New England, but they do anyway.

    Apparently, Chrysler doesn't make a steel wheel for the 99 300M. And the after-market wheels are about $100 each (the cheapest price I've found was $84 each) which is *way* out of my price range.

    I'd like to pick up four steel wheels from the junkyard, but they won't be ones made for the 300M.

    The tire place says they can use virtually any steel wheel as long as it has a 5-by-4 lug configuration (5 lugs 4 inches apart), but I wondered if anyone here could save me some time and give me some pointers to other car models that would have compatible wheels that I'd be likely to be able to get at a bone yard? I'd actually prefer 16-inch wheels (it has 17-inch now but the tire place said 16 would work just fine too) because of the savings in gas mileage from the smaller tire.

    And no - I don't care that I'll be losing the fancy rims, or that the car won't be as attractive as it is now. I LOVE the look of my 300M as-is, but frankly having a safe and reliable vehicle is much more important to me than having a pretty vehicle, so I just want to get rid of these aluminum wheels and put on steel ones ASAP.

    So if anyone knows what other model's wheels might be compatible (or can point me in the direction of a web site that could tell me) I'd really appreciate it.

    Thanks,

    Jay
  • I just tried that w/my 99 300M AC which was somewhat weak & intermittent...IT WORKED!!!

    If you do not shut the AC off when you turn the car off...I think the doors/dampers stay in the same position they were in when the car shuts off...

    I do not hear them returning to a position, which I do when you shut off the AC w/the car still running.
    Do you have to manipulate the level..etc often or was one time good enough?

    Thanks
This discussion has been closed.