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Mazda Protegé

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Comments

  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I park mine in a heated garage. You can tell in winter at any temperatures. We'll see about it when it warms up.

    The noise is more like a buzzing. It is coming from where the metallic-looking and back trim join near the "fresh air" and "recirculate air" push-button. How do I know? I pushed lightly against it when I heard it, and it stopped. As soon as I released, it started.

    It did not do it this morning. So it's on and off. Doesn't bother me too much since the stereo is usually at the midway position... I would like for it to be fixed nevertheless.

    Dinu
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Maybe you should go over to the Jetta board and ask them what they use to stop all of their rattles.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    I am jealous :(
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    but you can wear a sweater and tee and be fine inside in the middle of winter. So when it's -10 or more outside, I consider that heated :)

    Dinu
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    I envy any type of garage...it's too bad I'm still not going to have one at my new house :(
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    You can install a shelter during the winter. They have these things called "Abri Tempo" (temporary shelter) in Quebec and you see a lot of them inthe winter. At least it keeps the car and driveway free of snow. Do a search for it on the net.

    Ok, off to class and work I go. Check back with you all this evening.

    Dinu
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I used to have a Protege, and know which area you are talking about that you are hearing the rattle from. It might be a loose piece of trim. Try getting the dealer to listen to the sound. Good luck though, they will probably tell you the same thing they told me when I took my 2001 Protege in for a transmission squeak when shifting. "We don't even begin to know what's wrong with your car and cannot fix it". Dummies.
  • dkladkla Posts: 4
    Alright, a few points to clarify:

    -- The rattle doesn't always show up, and in fact, isn't constant. It does happen, once in a while, usually when the engine turns over. It's almost like a faint engine knock, and if you weren't looking for it, you might not hear it over the engine. But it's there.
    -- The sluggish driving, however, is pretty much a constant. Again, perhaps just oil warming up, but no matter what RPM I run (I keep it under 2500-3K before it warms up), it still drives like a bear.
    -- "Cold start" is a euphemism-- it happens in cold weather or warm weather (haven't had much hot weather here in DC yet).
    -- It's not loose trim or bad harmonics or the ilk. My car is brand new, everything in the engine compartment is tight, and all the people in the Protege Club board who report this share the same basic facts.
    -- Also according to them, certain Mazda dealers (none cited specifically, but I'll dig for names) have acknowledged that there is a problem at start-up, and that it is caused by a specific problem with ECU programming. Again, I haven't spoken to my dealer, I was just interested whether anyone here had ever heard that from their dealer. I can imagine Mazda would be reluctant to admit there is a problem that really isn't a problem, at least not in their eyes (especially if the only "fix" involves changing the ECU programming to the point that the Pro is no longer rated ULEV, which is just a theory from that board).

    Anyways, I'll try and talk to me dealer here in a a few weeks when I take it in for my first service.

    Cheers,
    DK
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    What's this shifting squeak? I sometimes hear one too when I'm shifting...at least that's what I think it is.
  • vocusvocus Posts: 7,777
    I had an automatic transmission. When it would shift normally, it would produce this "squeak" sound as it was shifting. The service people heard it and told me they did recognize it, but did not know what it was or how to fix it. If I told a client at work that, I would be considered incompetent. And that's exactly what I thought of those service guys.
  • sfratsfrat Posts: 208
    My car behaves identically. Slight rattling sound when cold, and shifter seems to grate through each gear. It really feels rough, not smooth at all. Goes completely away when warmed up. I don't think this is a severe problem, just the way the car behaves when cold. Changing transmission oil would probably help. I've heard good things about Redline. Other than that, I'm not really sure.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    That's the stuff I heard about! I was trying to remember that all morning...
    Anybody know how easy/hard it is to change tranny fluid (for a manual tranny)? Procedure?

    Vocus, thanks for the info...doesn't sound like we have the same problem. Actually, I haven't heard the squeak for a long while either, so it doesn't really matter.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    I changed my manual trans fluid out at 4000 miles and put Valvoline Synpower in for the cold weather. It seems to have helped out. I've dound that all cars with manual transmissions that use thick gear oil shift kinda harsh when cold. Many manual transmissions use a much thinner oil (honda/acura) in their transmissions than the thick gear oil that our cars take. Some manuals even call for ATF which is really thin.
  • sfratsfrat Posts: 208
    I did a search, and found this from a CRX message board/website. You have to scroll down a bit to see the "Redline Testimonials". General consensus seems that it helps cold shifting.


    http://resource.crx.org/products_aftermarket_parts_transmission.html


    I don't think in principle its very hard to change the trans. oil. It depends on where everything is located, and how accessible it is. It can be easy or difficult depending on the car.

  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    You have any procedural advice? I'm a complete newb in regards to changing fluids in my car... :(
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    The Protege is about as easy as you can get to change the manual trans gear oil. There's a fill plug and a drain plug. That's it.
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    psst. don't tell any of the others, but i just took the pro through an automatic wash and, well, i forgot to close the moonroof. i had it in the full tilt position. i didn't notice until i started getting sprayed with soapy water. doh! no damage done.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    On the transmission, there will be two big plugs (I think either 19mm or 21mm). The plug on the side (toward the front of the car) of the transmission is the fill plug. Remove that first. The plug on the bottom is the drain plug, pull that out, let it drain, put it back in. Fill the trans until fluid comes out of the fill plug. Let it level off, then put the fill plug back in. Done.
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    Understood. I think most of us understood to what engine problem you were referring - a common problem. The rattle is intermittent for me as well, though the apparent power loss around 2500 rpm is not. I'm thinking the rattle is maybe secondary to a vibration in the drive train that causes the rattle. Just a guess.

    If you find out anything from the dealer, please let us know. Thanks.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    Thanks...I'll think about doing that this summer when it gets nicer out. Also, what tranny fluid did you use?
  • dsm6dsm6 Posts: 813
    Wow. Thanks for the info. I'm surprised Mazda set it up to be that easy. It seems that manufacturers usually set things up so that routine maintenance is an exercise in contortionism and pain tolerance. I've been thinking about changing to synthetic in both the gear box and engine, mostly to help with cold starts.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    And newcar, what do I do w/ the fluid once it's drained??
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    To those lurkers who don't think there's any useful info in this forum....Is any of this info helpful/useful to you today? It sure has for me.
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    You can use GL5 or GL4 for the transmission. I used valvoline synpower GL5. You can drop the old stuff off at anyplace that takes used oil. Jiffy Lubes will usually take it.
  • protege_fanprotege_fan Posts: 2,405
    You da man!
  • sfratsfrat Posts: 208
    Thanks for the info. Its good that its easy and convient. Sometimes it can be a real bear, or require a lift, ramps and twisting to do a simple task. I was well aware that it was simple to do; my concern was where the drain plug was located. I might try out the redline myself and see if it makes a difference.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    I dunno but I USED to have a tappity sound from engine when cold.

    Then I had an ignition coil problem.
    took it to the dealer to replace ignition coil and wires.

    That day onwards I have not heard that cold engine tappity sound.

    So honestly I don't know what caused that sound in the first place and what made it go away.

    Maltb? any takes?
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    You may need ramps to get underneath it. I don't know because I did it in the Jiffy Lube "pit". Also, you may need to get a rubber tube and funnel to get the fluid in. It's really hard to get the fluid in from the bottles that it comes in, so you may want to get a rubber tube and funnel. It will make it a lot easier.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    if u ever get ur hand on a 1.8L Pro ES(manual or Auto), make sure to take a spin in it.....and post ur reviews about the engine / handling characteristics...this is for my personal satifaction....i hope u don't mind ;)

    Fxashun, in ur personal opinion does the car&driver statement for the PRO ES handling "BMW verve at 1/2 the price" hold true?
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    You're stirring that Civic -vs PRO debate :)

    Dinu
  • the_big_hthe_big_h Posts: 1,583
    before things get, ahem, out of hand again :D
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Leaking plug wires can cause a ticking noise. Especially true if it is moist out.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    the noise was definitely mechanical....tapping noice of valve tappets......
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    remember I once told u about the resonance problem?

    well I think the problem was due to the fact that my engine was not making enough hp/torque and that caused it to resonate when starting from a standstill.

    BTW, the resonance went away after changing the ignition coils and wires.
  • chikoochikoo Posts: 3,008
    >>>you're stirring that Civic -vs PRO debate :)<<<

    No No... I am stirring up a PRO vs a BMW debate ;)

    should be certainly worth every minute we spend reading it.
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    Valve tappet makes no sense, but I could understand predetonation in a HOT engine with a bad coil. Strange.
  • fxashunfxashun Posts: 747
    BMW hands down. Even a 318Ti was loads of fun. Rear wheel drive is the way to go if you have the option.

    The Protege handles like a dream. If it had a real engine in it.... You are right I do need to drive the 1.8. I like the way the 2000's look more anyway.

    That vibration on cold start worried me too.I thought it felt like the pistons vibrating in the cylinder bores. Made sense to me. Everything needed to get up to operating temp to smooth out. I don't know.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    LOL...Thanks for making my day!

    :)

    --Dale
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    We'll be kind about it. It can happen to anyone(not really, some people are born to make us all laugh).
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    ...you have anybody in particular in mind? :)
  • maltbmaltb Posts: 3,572
    I'll say Jerry Lewis.
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    ...at least you didn't say the Three Stooges :)

    And now I'll just be quiet, since I'm not talking about my PROTEGE.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    Darren, who are you, besides Darren (aka yourself)?

    Confused Dinu
  • newcar31newcar31 Posts: 3,711
    It isn't really about Pro vs. BMW. I think what C&D was trying to say is that the Protege ES has BMW character. It has a tight feeling to it, it handles well without being too stiff, and the steering is nice. The styling is kinda euro too. Either Road & Track or Car and Driver also said it "does a nice BMW 2002 impression". If anyone is familiar with the old BMW 2002s, they were nice sport sedans in their day. I also think the look of the new ES interior is somewhat germanic too----all black with red illumination and Mazda pulled it off without looking too "Pontiac". Somebody can correct me if I'm wrong, but I believe the current gen Protege's exterior design was done in Germany. IMO, in terms of handling characteristics, the Protege feels more "German" than a certain German/Mexican car that will go un-named.
  • fxashunfxashun Posts: 747
    The Pro is too jittery at high speeds to be compared to (that German car). I'd rather be in a (german car) than a Pro but they cost too much to own and keep up over the long haul.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    sure feels VERY Germanic to me. As you guys said, a stiff susp, tight ride, good steering input (tuned towards city driving) make the PRO a very desirable car. The ES in blk interior looks great and not just b/c I have one. Better than some "German" car? I don;t know too much about "German" cars, except they used to have issues...

    Now that orange lighting, while strange at first, I now love it at nite. Definitely NOT Pontiac.

    Dinu
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    I was talking about the Jetta AND the Bimmer.

    Dinu
  • chicagoprochicagopro Posts: 1,009
    Darren is dsm6.

    See post 11149.
  • fxashunfxashun Posts: 747
    but supple with lots of wheel travel. Very well damped wheel motions. The Protege is just firm. Not much suppleness in its suspension. There's a difference.
  • dinu01dinu01 Posts: 2,586
    The PRO is indeed just firm. But for $20.000 CDN, can you blame it? It has the best setup for 2001+ of all small cars, rite?

    Dale: Thanx!

    Dinu
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