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Acura CL

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Comments

  • Hello all -- I'm shopping for a new car and after driving the CL-S, am absolutely in love. Fortunately, my pregnant wife is OK with the idea of getting a coupe as our second car (2000 Subaru Outback Ltd for her...). Some important questions though:
    1) Anyone out there have a CL-S and little children (under 3yrs)?
    2) How much of a pain (or not) is getting a babyseat into the back of a CL-S?
    3) Worth it? (I think I know the answer here already, but your two cents are certainly appreciated...)

    Thanks!
    ~d
  • 99cl99cl Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 99 3.0CL, I BROUGHT THE ALPINE CHMS620 CD CHANGER AND THE ADAPTER FROM CIRCUIT CITY AND GOOD GUYS. HOWEVER, THEY BOTH FIT IN BUT CAN'T CONTROL THE CHANGER. HAVE ANYONE INTALL CD CHANGER IN THEIR CL(2.3 OR 3.0)? PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVISE. I WAISED 5 HOURS ON THE JOB, AND HAVE TO PUT BACK ALL THE PARTS THE I REMOVED IN ORDER FOR ME TO GET TO THE HEADUNIT. OR ANY PLACE (IN BAYAREA, SAN FRNACISCA CA)YOU GUYS HAVE YOU CD CHANGER INSTALLED OR RECOMMEND.
  • 99cl99cl Posts: 2
    I HAVE A 99 3.0CL, I BROUGHT THE ALPINE CHMS620 CD CHANGER AND THE ADAPTER FROM CIRCUIT CITY AND GOOD GUYS. HOWEVER, THEY BOTH FIT IN BUT CAN'T CONTROL THE CHANGER. HAVE ANYONE INTALL CD CHANGER IN THEIR CL(2.3 OR 3.0)? PLEASE GIVE ME SOME ADVISE. I wasted 5 HOURS ON THE JOB, AND HAVE TO PUT BACK ALL THE PARTS THE I REMOVED IN ORDER FOR ME TO GET TO THE HEADUNIT. OR ANY PLACE (IN BAYAREA, SAN FRNACISCA CA)YOU GUYS HAVE YOU CD CHANGER INSTALLED OR RECOMMEND.

    also, i heard that the 99cl does not need additional adapter to connect a cd changer.

    so much trouble, maybe i should just sell my 7500 miles 3.0 and get the new one with cd changer. anyone in the bayarea looking for a 99cl? email me at [email protected]
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Dougwski: Having gone thru the experience of 2 kids myself, I would say the trouble is not getting the baby seat in because once it's in, it stays in. You wouldn't have to put up with the hassle of taking it in and out. With infants, I found that the trouble with a 2-door is carrying the kid in and out. You have to get yourself at least halfway in the car stooped over carrying the baby. Could make for a sore back! But at least the CL-S has those power walk-in seats.
  • 300z300z Posts: 7
    I am looking at buying a new CL Type S. My Acura dealer has a one with 5,500 miles on it. It has been driven by the general manager of the dealer. It is a Type S with no navigation, but has the spoiler. What would be a good price to pay for it? Should I look at it like a used car?- it does have quite a bit of mileage. I think I'll offer $25,000 initially and hopefully settle on $26-26.5K. Do you guys think that's a fair price or do you think the dealer will laugh at me. The car is exactly what I want- black in color, spoiler, no DVD. Please give me your thoughts.
  • I agree 5,500 miles is a lot, but if the price is right it may be worth it. Remember, Acura has a great warranty and quality record. I just purchased the exact same car with 9 miles for $28,500 US. I am not sure what to tell you about the price, but $25k seems okay. Good luck!
  • dean078dean078 Posts: 16
    that's more "explicit" than what i said about my dealership (i pretty much stated only facts and no put downs), yet they threatened to sue (from what i hear).

    and they don't go by consumer information? that is a load of bull schitt.

    see, this reinforces my opinions on acura dealers as stated in the other cl type s topic on this site.
  • I purhased a 2001 Silver CL-S, (non-navi) in June of this year. I love the car. It has far exceeded my expectations for performance.

    I now wish to sell the car for a fair price.

    The car has 6000 miles on it and is in excellent condition.

    I am in Arizona.

    Any interest??
  • dean078dean078 Posts: 16
    yeah, uh, why are you selling it?
  • Dean

    I'm relocating to New Zealand at the end of November. I've lived in NZ for most of the past thirteen years. I returned to the US planning to retire in June of this year, but circumstances now dictate that I have to go back to Wellington.

    My motivation is to sell the CL-S for somewhat less than the fair market value but more than I could realize from off-loading it with a dealer.
  • For anyone interested in purchasing a 2001 CL in Cincinnati, Ohio, I just purchased a 2001 CL-S non-nav with splash guards and wheel locks for $29,300. from Columbia Acura. MSRP was $31,010.
    They have about 15 or so in stock. Salesman was Josh Eger. He was very fair and professional and I would recommend giving him a call if your interested in buying.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Before I got my first CL, I got quotes from auto-by-tel. Columbia Acura responded with a price that was great at the time, something like $1500 off MSRP, when no one else would discount the car. I waited until the market cooled off, and bought one at home...
  • gbncagbnca Posts: 1
    Does anyone have any information on CL-S residual factors used by Southern California dealers? Do residual factors vary by location?

    How about information on money factors? It, I would guess, would vary based on location and available lenders. Again, in Southern California will very good credit. Thanks.
  • luddieluddie Posts: 1
    To the Atlanta Acura guy. I bought a new CL-S from Ed Voyles on Ptree Industrial for a fair price. I worked with Dwight, and got a new one with no miles, spoiler, ashtray, and lighter for around 29, including destination charge. It took me all of around 45 minutes to agree on a fair price for my trade and the new car. It's a joy. And for all folks having trouble with the trunk, you have to hold in the trunk button, you can't just push it, hold it in, and it will pop. enjoy!!
  • Edmund's road test of the 2001 Acura 3.2CL Type S is now available. Here's the direct link to the 2001 Acura 3.2CL Type S, by Liz Kim.

    Thanks for your comments. ;-)

    Pocahontas,
    Edmunds.com/Roving Host
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    i have no problem that those of you who can easily afford the car to get it, but doesn't it make sense for most folks in the under $60K salary area to buy the accord (or maybe the cl-p) over the cl-s? i can't see paying 30 grand on a car unless your annual income is minimum $60K. i use the half the income method. am i nuts? sure, there's other things to look at than just income when deciding what's affordable, but still, isn't the accord a decent enough car for those in the $50K salary range or less? if i was making $60K then yes, i'd probably consider the CL-S, but at $50K, I wonder if the cl-s is an affordable coupe.
    i wonder what the average income of CL-s buyers is...no, i'm not asking any of you to divulge your income, it's a rhetorical question. i wonder if acura salesfolks might have such records tho. seems to me that if someone is earning $50K a year, they'd be better off with accord, budgetary wise. maybe those in the 50K to 60K range would buy the CL-P and not the CL-S. i can maybe see that. but ooh wee, that CL-S is a tad out of reach for the $50K crowd, am i right?
  • hb8hb8 Posts: 2
    To "Luddie" (10/24), "Msprague" ((10/22) & "Davejohn" with drive-out prices of $29K, $29.3 &
    $28.5K repectfully. Are these drive-out prices?
    I'm getting drive-out quotes of $32,000 to 32,500
    in Houston. (w/spoiler & splash guards).
    HB8
  • hbeat2hbeat2 Posts: 1
    TO: ral2167

    Why are you so worried if others on this site who make less than 60K can afford a CL-S? Priorities and personal taste are different for everyone. If you feel you cannot afford one, then don't buy one. Don't worry about everyone else, we're all adults here. If you make 50k per year, that's an average of about $3,500 monthly(after taxes),so $500 a month for a car is nothing...but if you have 4 or 5 kids, credit card debt running out of your ears, and overdue students loans, then you're right BUY THE HONDA ACCORD!
  • When I bought my 99 3.0 CL it cost me $25K and I only made $30K at the time. I leased the car because I wanted a nicer car.

    Looking back on it now, I wish I had kept my older car. Not that I don't LOVE my CL, but when I get the chance to trade it in and get something cheaper I will.

    Just waiting for the L.A. auto show in January! Then I will pick a car! :)
  • hb8hb8 Posts: 2
    ACURA OWNERS
    IS $30,000 A REASONABLE OFFER FOR ME TO MAKE FOR DRIVE-OUT PRICE ON A 2001 CL TYPE-S(TAX, TITLE & LICENSE)W/SPOILER, SPLASH-GUARDS AND WHEEL-LOCKS?
    HB8
  • ral2167ral2167 ohioPosts: 767
    what's the tax rate in your state? and i assume this is non nav type s, yes? i can't answer your question, but i assume others can who have bought the car, and these questions' answers would help...good luck.
  • 300z300z Posts: 7
    Well, I finally bought one- from a different dealer of course. I bought a black Type S(no nav) with black interior, spoiler, and mud guards. The dealer came down to $29,300 including destination, but I got him to throw in mudguards and spoiler for $200 more, totaling $29,500. I am very happy with the car, but have a question for all the Type S owners about the brakes. Do you all find them to work well? They are fairly well sized- 11.8 in front rotors, 11.0 in rears and the front calipers are fairly large (I'm not sure how many pistons they have though). I find the brakes to do a pretty decent job slowing the car from higher speed, but it seems to require quite a bit of force to come to a complete stop from, say 35 mph. You have to press the pedal pretty firmly, almost as if it weren't boosted enough. I know the car is fairly heavy at 3,525 lbs, but it still shouldn't take this much effort to stop. What are your experiences/opinions?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Yes I think it's the weight of the car. I too find when slowing down at city speeds the brakes initially don't feel that great. But when you step down harder, then they grab just fine with good feel and modulation.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    300Z is this your first Acura, per chance?

    Acura brakes seem "soft", and give the wrong impression. I'm wondering if the fact they're soft fakes you out, and makes you think they're not effective. That is how I felt driving my first Acura.
  • 300z300z Posts: 7
    Yes, it's the first Acura I've owned, but I've test driven a 1996 Integra GS-R before. Now that I've driven it more, it does seem to grab better if you press a little harder on the pedal.
    While we're at it, did all of you Type S owners change the oil for the first time at 4,000 mi as recommended? I found this to be surprising as I'd prefer to change it at no later than 2,000 mi.
  • I have a 98 Acura CL with 50k miles on it--I have a 50 mile a day round trip to work. I love this car, but I can't trust it. I never know if I'm going to make it to my destination. In the last year, I've had to replace the computer, alternator (broke twice), and transmission. It's in the shop again for who knows what (won't start, just conked out on me during an acceleration). Armchair mechanics say it sounds like the timing belt--others say it's a fuel problem. I am so frustrated. I am thinking of getting rid of it, but then I think of all of the new parts on it and wonder if I should keep it because most of the expensive stuff has been replaced. Thank goodness I did buy the extended warranty which everyone told me I was crazy to do at the time because it's a "Honda"!!! What would you do--keep it or get rid of it?
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    Since you bought the extended warranty, you're covered financially for the repairs. But if safety and inconvenience are concerns, then I would get rid of it. Besides, it would be easier to sell now with so much time left on the warranty.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    buckeye52, since you asked, you seem to be in the position to take the loss and sell the car. I am on my second Acura because they run and run, and I do very little to maintain them. If I had your car, I would get rid of it.
  • I have a 1998 2.3 CL premium and I just love it!! It has a little more than 40K miles and I've had no problems with it at all! But, if I had the problems with it that buckeye52 has had I would probably get rid of it and stay away from Acura's completely.

    On the other hand.....I do love my car and hate to sell it, but I must. My husband and I are wanting to upgrade to the new TL because it is a bigger family car and (because of no problems with current Acura) we want to stay with the Acura line of cars. If anyone you know is interested in buying my wonderful CL, please let me know. Like I said it has about 40,300 miles on it, Inza red with parchment leather, is in great condition and is super clean! I am asking $16,300 for it.

    Thanks
  • Hi, I am a new owner with a 2001 CL with Navi. My moonroof has a rattle when the shade is open. When I close it the rattle stops. I believe the rattle is the catch for the shade. The dealer "fixed" it once. It rattled on the way out of the lot. He said it needed to be lubed.
    Anyone else have this problem? What was the fix? This is a small dealer, sells mainly Suburus. So far we really love this car. Great handling and 31mpg at 70mph. Problem is , it is hard to keep the speed down!!! Hope someone out there can help?
    Thanks for any input, Tom.
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    I've had this rattle too. So far I've managed to "fix" it by just sliding the shade back & forth a few times. I'm sure it'll come back. I'll get the dealer to look into it when I bring the car in for the first service.
  • I too have this annoying rattle above me while I drive. I've had my Type-S for about 4 months now and it's been to the dealer twice to silence the noise. When others ride in the car with me, they claim to hear nothing and tell me I'm too picky. I certainly hear it and it is worse with the visor open and worser (if that's a word) when the roof is open. The dealer claimed the roof just need some lubricant, they were wrong.

    Have any of you heard of a permanent fix or even the actual cause of the rattle? I have tried the sliding bit quite a few times with no success.

    Other than this annoyance, I love this awesome piece of machinery! What a fun car to drive!
  • canadianclcanadiancl Posts: 1,078
    I think the shade rattle and the moonroof noise (I can't recall if it is actually a rattle) are 2 different problems. You may be unlucky enough to have both. Acura is aware of the moonroof noise. There may even be a TSB on it. It has certainly been discussed on this board before. Hopefully others who have had direct experience with it will post again.
  • I'm not sure if the roof is causing the noise or if it's the shade. The dealer thought it was the roof and lubed it, but as soon as I drove it out of the service department it started to rattle again.

    I am planning to take it in again in early spring. By that time they might have a better fix for it.

    Thanks for the response.
  • i have what sounds like a rattle, but it's not...it's the "sqeaking" sound of the rubber molding around the roof, but it sounds just like a rattle. dealers would use silicone lube to cure it...i'm just going to buy a $4 can of it and do it myself to see if that works.

    i don't have any other rattle, just the resonance thing that i havne't gotten fixed yet. i'll probably end up getting a visor anyway.
  • I bought a new 2001 CL Type S. What's special about this purchase is that I am a salesperson for Tischer Acura. I attended a meeting today for Acura and it was so funny that most of us were driving the S Type however I was the only salesman who owned it. Most were driving them as demo's. I live in Baltimore and commute to Laurel and I can not stop blowing people off the road. My S Type loves to be at 80mph. This could be a big problem however I am not really complaining. It's not often that you see a car like this. I have also heard this noise and I do think that it is the rubber of the roof, however, I will have my service department look at it and we will see what the fix is. If you have any quesitons feel free to email me directly at [email protected]

    Ken Brown
  • Hello everyone, i am from the Sanfrancisco Bay
    area. I was just wondering if anyone from this area has bought a 2001 acura 3.2 CL. I have been
    getting some outrageous/contradicting prices from
    the dealers.
    I am planning to buy the type -P(225 HP) without
    navigation CL. Accessories - Spoiler, tire locks.
    If anyone has bought a cl recently, can you please
    share the price/dealer name with me.
    You can also e-mail me at [email protected]

    thanks
  • If you pull up the Acura web site, you will find a 'dealer locator' that will enable you to find every Acura dealer in the state of California. Most of them have e-mail address (and all have phone #'s) that you can use to secure price quotes. My experience is that there are plenty of hungry dealers who want your business. I think there are at least 6-8 dealers within 100 or so miles of San Francisco.

    Good luck

    Larry Homer
    [email protected]
  • I purchased my CL Type-S (no nav system) in July. I was told by my bank and a few other institutions that, because the car model was new, I would likely have to pay sticker (MSRP) price for one. I drove mine off the lot with tinited windows and wheel locks for $30,100 (they deducted the destination charge and threw in the tint and locks at no charge). This was the best deal I found here in the Dallas/Fort Worth Metroplex.

    In my opinion, the Type-S is definitely worth the extra $2,500 over the base CL!
  • Have any of you Type-S owners installed a K&N air filter yet? I can't seem to locate one for my car, nor can I get any performance info. I live in the DFW area.
  • I am the owner of a '99 accord cpe. It appears that my roof is the same as used in the 2001 Cl. I have also had rattles. It appears to be two problems. 1) The roof rattles, a coat 3m makes a great product for weatherstripping, solves the problem for a few months. 2) The shade rattles. Don' push the shade all the way in. Leave out (a 1/2 inch will do it.) My passengers also say that they hear nothing! But we know it is definitely there.

    [email protected]
  • I want a CL Type-S with stock CL springs and shocks. Does anyone know if these parts bolt up? Ron.
  • Don't take this to the bank, so to speak, but I think the main difference in the suspensions of the Type-S vs. premium model is in the shocks and the rear sway bar (1-mm smaller on the premium). I suspect the biggest difference (ride-wise) between them is in the wheels and tires. The wheels are 7 x 17 inches and the tires are 50 series on the S model and the premium has 16-inch wheels (6-½ inch width?) and 60 series tires. If your aim is to soften up the ride, look to the tires and the shocks. Everything should be a "bolt-on. However, the handling will suffer if you tweak the wheels, tires and suspension.
  • My dealer, Feders in Middletown, N.Y., installed two foam strips onto the shade. This seams to have cured the rattle. Only time will tell if it is "the" cure. Tom.
  • Got my 7500 mile service today and took the chance to complain about he rattle. Like most everybody else on this board, the dealer "lubed" the area and asked me to continually monitor it. They said it was very dry at the seams and the lube should do it. I stopped hearing the rattle when I drove the car home, but we'll see if it lasts.
  • ront8ront8 Posts: 1
    I have been shopping in North jersey for a CL-Prem w/Nav and spoiler. My best price so far is 28.600 plus tax and lic. Anyone in this area had better luck.
  • jandsjands Posts: 1
    I would like to buy a 2001 Acura CL Type S with wheel locks and splash guards (no Nav system) in the San Diego, CA area. Only quote I have is $29,700 (incl dest charge) plus tax and license. Invoice (incl dest charge) is $28128. Is this a good price compared to what you have paid? Thanks for your help.
  • I bought a Type S with Nav. (Northern California) for $31,300 (could have done at least $200 better if I had not had a trade to unload). A non-Nav. Equivalent would be about $29, 300. If you are not trading, I'd try for around $29,000, particularly if you're color-flexible. Good luck!

    Larry Homer
    [email protected]
  • I think Larry got a good price with a trade-in. I purchased a black/black Type S w/ Nav, wheel locks and splash guards in Orange County for $30,500 + tax & license back in September w/o the trade. The Nav is suppose to be a $2,000 option - a really cool toy! This would suggest that a non-nav should be around $28,500. If you wish to drive up to Orange County, I'll be glad to give you the name of my dealer and see if you can get better than $28,500. Good luck!

    [email protected]
  • I have been reading through all the posts made on the new CL...I have had my CL Type-S w/Navi for 5 months now and can't keep my foot out of the throttle. This car not only turns heads but, eats gas!!! Has anyone gotten better than 250 miles to a tank yet??!! Every chance I get I just want to take a cruise to the Keys or just down to South Beach....Does anyone know of any sites or places where you can get any other performance upgrades??? Need to go fasterrrrrr... thanks in advance.
This discussion has been closed.